I have the opportunity to move a 32'x72' garage that we built on a piece of land my dad sold 2 years ago. The garage was never fully completed. Structurally it was, but it wasnt completely sided or finished inside. The buyer now said that we could have it, if we want it. My dad is willing to pay for the concrete at my land, and I have access to a full size crane and operator. My question now is, how can I make this happen? The dimensions are 32x72 with 12'walls, plus attic trusses. It is fully shingled also. I have figured out moving the walls, however, any tips would help. The roof and trusses are the hard part though, so that is where i need the most help. Thanks in advance guys/gals.
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Moving a 32x72 garage help
- Thread starter autobody
- Start date
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
What kind of building. I helped a friend move a Miracle truss Hangar that was roughly 50 by 100 about ten years ago. It was allot of work but it only took three of us, scaffolding, no crane, and a really big boat trailer. I also helped put it up twice.
Chris
Chris
wbrian63
Well-known member
If the outer sheeting was done with a nail or staple gun, you can figure on losing most, if not all of the sheeting. Same for roofing - just figure on scraping the shingles and knocking the sheeting off. Make sure the trusses are tied together under the roof (usually a 2x or 1x something nailed to the underside of the truss along the peak of the roof) before you start knocking the sheeting off.
The rest - get a good sawzall (reciprocating demolition saw) and a bunch of good blades and cut the nails.
One thought - you might be able to remove the walls in sections. The roof I think will have to have the shingles stripped and the sheeting removed as described previously (BAH from below works wonders).
For the walls, take the sawzall and starting from the top, cut through the cap plates and right next to a stud all the way down to the sill plate, and through that too. Make the sections as large as you can handle/transport. Number or identify everything so it goes back together just as it came apart.
When it comes time to re-assemble, add a new 2x6 to the right of the stud where you cut the siding. Just to be good and strong, I'd use construction adhesive + nails or screws to attach it. This will give you a good nailing point to reattach the sheeting.
I'd consider removing the cap plates and installing new ones to properly stitch the walls together. (Of course, you could remove these before you cut the walls into sections.) Alternately, you could add another cap plate on top of the ones already there, but you'll have a 1-1/2" gap in the sheeting at the top of the wall. That may or may not matter for siding, but you'll need to tie the trusses down to the sheeting somehow to provide proper wind-lift stability. "Hurricane clips" (what we call them down here) usually only reach from the truss to the bottom of the 2nd 2-by under the truss. The sheeting ties the 2 2-by together at the top of the wall.
The cost to move a wood structure like this (assuming it could stand the strain of lifting it) is prohibitive.
Just remember that chip board doesn't like coming back off a wall in one piece. Unless it's screwed in place, unless you can gently pry it free and slip the sawzall in from behind to slice the fasteners, you'll likely destroy the sheet before it comes loose.
Great opportunity. Cost will be minimal if you've got a bunch of willing friends. The biggest PITA will be removing the roof and getting the trusses down.
I would think with the proper ladders, scaffolding, etc, that this structure could be a pile of trusses and wall sections in a weekend's work.
The rest - get a good sawzall (reciprocating demolition saw) and a bunch of good blades and cut the nails.
One thought - you might be able to remove the walls in sections. The roof I think will have to have the shingles stripped and the sheeting removed as described previously (BAH from below works wonders).
For the walls, take the sawzall and starting from the top, cut through the cap plates and right next to a stud all the way down to the sill plate, and through that too. Make the sections as large as you can handle/transport. Number or identify everything so it goes back together just as it came apart.
When it comes time to re-assemble, add a new 2x6 to the right of the stud where you cut the siding. Just to be good and strong, I'd use construction adhesive + nails or screws to attach it. This will give you a good nailing point to reattach the sheeting.
I'd consider removing the cap plates and installing new ones to properly stitch the walls together. (Of course, you could remove these before you cut the walls into sections.) Alternately, you could add another cap plate on top of the ones already there, but you'll have a 1-1/2" gap in the sheeting at the top of the wall. That may or may not matter for siding, but you'll need to tie the trusses down to the sheeting somehow to provide proper wind-lift stability. "Hurricane clips" (what we call them down here) usually only reach from the truss to the bottom of the 2nd 2-by under the truss. The sheeting ties the 2 2-by together at the top of the wall.
The cost to move a wood structure like this (assuming it could stand the strain of lifting it) is prohibitive.
Just remember that chip board doesn't like coming back off a wall in one piece. Unless it's screwed in place, unless you can gently pry it free and slip the sawzall in from behind to slice the fasteners, you'll likely destroy the sheet before it comes loose.
Great opportunity. Cost will be minimal if you've got a bunch of willing friends. The biggest PITA will be removing the roof and getting the trusses down.
I would think with the proper ladders, scaffolding, etc, that this structure could be a pile of trusses and wall sections in a weekend's work.
cyamaha2007
Well-known member
depending on how far your going you could haul all the walls in 1 piece.
12 miles exactly. I have access to this crane as it is my father-in-laws,http://www.molin.com/images/services/installation.jpg
and also full size roll-back car hauler.
I am also wondering if it would work if I put the walls into the back of a commercial dump truck, then I could haul them standing up and it wouldnt be a wide load.
I want to make it happen. Just need some motivation that I CAN do it haha.
and also full size roll-back car hauler.
I am also wondering if it would work if I put the walls into the back of a commercial dump truck, then I could haul them standing up and it wouldnt be a wide load.
I want to make it happen. Just need some motivation that I CAN do it haha.
Zeke
Well-known member
As mentioned, the roof is trash at this point unless you want to pull all the nails by hand, shingle by shingle. I'd cut the structure into manageable pieces and reconstruct. Leave the sheathing and cut it. Move an 8 foot by 32 foot section of roof at a time on the flatbed. That's about 9 trips. You'll have to figure out a way to off load the sections at the new location as the crane will be at the old location until all sections are delivered.
wbrian63 has the reassembly covered nicely for you. You can add some metal strapping to the joints as well before installing the finish siding. He may have missed the part about it only being OSB exterior sheathing, so any gaps by adding lumber top and bottom are not much of a problem as long as you connect everything correctly and cover the whole thing with siding. Usually the first strips hang down over the foundation walls anyway.
wbrian63 has the reassembly covered nicely for you. You can add some metal strapping to the joints as well before installing the finish siding. He may have missed the part about it only being OSB exterior sheathing, so any gaps by adding lumber top and bottom are not much of a problem as long as you connect everything correctly and cover the whole thing with siding. Usually the first strips hang down over the foundation walls anyway.
Zeke
Well-known member
More: You can use the roll back to haul the wall sections too. You might have to make a fixture to lay them at an angle if you have any height restrictions along the way like power lines. You can also haul them upright with proper strapping if you have at least 16' overhead the whole way. Look for alternate routes like the house movers do.
You might be able to haul as long as 24' sections on that truck. Here's a tip: use some of the metal mending/strapping to connect the wall sections being moved. Remove the screws, hammer back straight and use for your final connections on the building. Haul the roof sections upside down on the truck which ever way they fit the best.
I'd love to do this job, but alas, I'm in CA.
You might be able to haul as long as 24' sections on that truck. Here's a tip: use some of the metal mending/strapping to connect the wall sections being moved. Remove the screws, hammer back straight and use for your final connections on the building. Haul the roof sections upside down on the truck which ever way they fit the best.
I'd love to do this job, but alas, I'm in CA.