Has anyone tried moving one of those free standing metal carports around by pulling/dragging it? The metal top and 2x2 metal leg style ones. I'm curious if the are strong enough to pulled over grass or dirt without buckling (obviously going easy). Wouldn't need to go more than 100 feet. Thanks
Moving a carport
- Thread starter Yeager
- Start date
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,..... I suggest ya tear it apart, 'n reassemble it where ya want it,.....
I wouldn't try draggin' it without some serious bracin', which would be more work,....
I wouldn't try draggin' it without some serious bracin', which would be more work,....
TonyJ
Well-known member
I’ve done it several times and it’s always been really easy. I always just attach a short 2x4 about 2 ft long under the end that is being pulled on both sides to make like a set of ski’s so it doesn’t dig in the ground. Attached at the front corner flat against the bottom and at the back of the 2x 4’s I put a 1” piece of wood between the 2x4 and the metal so it will cause the front to point up so it can ski. And to pull it I use several ratchet straps. I put a 2x6 between the front from side to side with a notch cut in both ends to slip around the two front poles and snug it up by pulling the front poles inward toward each other. Then hook straps or chains to both front legs to pull it away
Tony
Tony
rayra
Well-known member
cross bracing high and low. And a longitudinal brace along each side.
Be easier and cheaper to just dismantle and reassemble it.
/nobody works harder than a lazy man
Be easier and cheaper to just dismantle and reassemble it.
/nobody works harder than a lazy man
I am in the camp that would be tempted to brace it well to avoid any bad events. or take it apart & move it. just dragging it as is, even with skis, is a recipe for possible damage, IMO
cross brace from each corner to corner with steel cable so it cant rack and some 2x to keep it from closing or collapsing inwards
cross brace from each corner to corner with steel cable so it cant rack and some 2x to keep it from closing or collapsing inwards
readhead
Well-known member
I have a display unit on my lot that I have moved several times. I screw down a piece of square tube across the base rails on the leading edge to maintain the width. Then I run a chain from side to side and hook it on the bucket of the tractor. Raise the bucket so the leading edge is off the ground and drag away.
Dustball
Well-known member
I'd do (8) 1" wide ratchet straps, two on each side making an "x" from corner to corner. That'll prevent any racking/twisting while you're pulling.
rkevins
Well-known member
if you have a trailer, you could back it in and jack up the building and brace it off to the trailer.
Ret Nailbender
Active member
I agree with Shade guy, use pipe. I have moved a lot of things, including a carport using pipe.
finn
Well-known member
Attach a long 2x6 to the upright metal studs with u-bolts at a height a few inches lower than the top of your pickup bed rails. Add two cross pieces that will ride on the top of the bed rails when you lift or jack the carport up a few inches
Back the truck under the carport, lower it, and drive to the new site.
Lift or ja
Back the truck under the carport, lower it, and drive to the new site.
Lift or ja
CraigStu
Well-known member
If you do the wood skis and pull from the very bottom of the vertical support beam there will be no tendency to rack. All the resistance is from the bottom sliding on the ground. If you pull the bottom it will work fine. If you pull from several feet off the ground it will be a real racking problem.
rusty1
Well-known member
Amish guys moved a huge barn by hand,...have a carport moving party...
DTE
Well-known member
W.O.B.
Active member
I moved a 22 x 35 carport/storage building about 100 ft and back .
I made several "dollies" out of 18 inch sections of 6 inch i-beam. I used one side of the I- beam channel as a cradle for the frame. I then drilled the bottom half of the channel and used round bar to make axles. I purchased 24 of the cheapest dolly tire/wheel combo's from harbor freight and welded washers to the axle's to hold them in place (washer on each side of the tire). Each dolly had a one tire on each side.
I then jacked the building up with a tractor jack and installed the dollies.
I used another 10 ft section of I beam as a load equalizer. I did this by hooking it to the back of the drop hitch and then cutting holes for the chains in the end of the I-beam webbing. The chains connected to the front uprights on the carport end. This prevented the tension from pulling the uprights toward the center. It was a few hours of work and saved me 3000 to move it (1500 each way).
Hopefully this explanation can be visualized, it at least makes sense in my head.
I made several "dollies" out of 18 inch sections of 6 inch i-beam. I used one side of the I- beam channel as a cradle for the frame. I then drilled the bottom half of the channel and used round bar to make axles. I purchased 24 of the cheapest dolly tire/wheel combo's from harbor freight and welded washers to the axle's to hold them in place (washer on each side of the tire). Each dolly had a one tire on each side.
I then jacked the building up with a tractor jack and installed the dollies.
I used another 10 ft section of I beam as a load equalizer. I did this by hooking it to the back of the drop hitch and then cutting holes for the chains in the end of the I-beam webbing. The chains connected to the front uprights on the carport end. This prevented the tension from pulling the uprights toward the center. It was a few hours of work and saved me 3000 to move it (1500 each way).
Hopefully this explanation can be visualized, it at least makes sense in my head.
The same thing, that I've been doing, and it helped to move it. Although I've also ordered some human help from guys called Three Men And A Truck because it seems that they can provide the most reliable moving service in our area and state. out family was moving for a long-distance, and they helped a lot.
Last edited:
BlakeTheCarGuy
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don’t know if you could move it or not being assembled
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Arkansas COB
Well-known member
Just moved an 18'x20' 2 weeks ago. Used a combination of TonyJ's bracing bottom with 2x6 and Shade Guys pipe method. Moved it from front of house thru the yard to back of house with no problem as long as we kept pipe under it which was used terminal post for chain link fencing.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=31507
This guy has it figured out. Strapped it to the 3pt implement and the front loader so it sits level. Pick it all up slowly and drive to new location slowly.
This guy has it figured out. Strapped it to the 3pt implement and the front loader so it sits level. Pick it all up slowly and drive to new location slowly.
musgofasta
Well-known member
4x8 sheets of plywood and some pipe cut into 12'' sections - it will roll easily
nadogail
Well-known member
Several years ago, one Saturday morning, my neighbor walked door to door in our Cul De Sac and asked every able bodied man to come to his house at 10:30.
We each grabbed hold of a brace he had nailed to his garden structure that the HOA objected to and walked it 4 feet to a new compliant location.
We each grabbed hold of a brace he had nailed to his garden structure that the HOA objected to and walked it 4 feet to a new compliant location.
just remembered back in the late 70's, a neighbour backed an old pick up truck into his garage, flattened the tires, braced & bridged the garage to the truck. filled up the tires, backed the truck up about 30', flatened the tires , removed bridging . filled up tires, drove it away