Moving a MrCool DIY mini split and questions related

[swoozle]

What's your experience, good and bad, with moving a MrCool DIY mini split? That is. shutting the refrigerant valves, disconnecting the special tube fittings, moving the unit, and reconnecting/reopening.

MrCool/IWAE say that it is doable but their wording recently has gotten a little more iffy (voids the warranty).

My experience: I have moved two separate units. Both problem-free (I think).
The first, a 12k, went off without a hitch. Works great a year later.
The second was a warranty replacement of the outdoor unit on an 18k. I'm about to do it AGAIN because the replacement is itself being warranty replaced. It's a long story but I don't see how it could be the fault of the dis/reassembly (and neither did Mrcool) .... third time's a charm?

So, any interesting storied out there? Tips and pointers?
The only thing of note that I've done was a little smear of Nylog on the refrigerant connector interfaces on reassembly.

I have seen a couple of you-tube videos for (non-mrcool) mini splits that outlines a procedure for getting the refrigerant into the outdoor unit (while running, close the high side valve, then after a few seconds the low side valve, then shut off). I did this on neither of mine (didn't know about it).

 

[fitter30]

What's your experience, good and bad, with moving a MrCool DIY mini split? That is. shutting the refrigerant valves, disconnecting the special tube fittings, moving the unit, and reconnecting/reopening.

MrCool/IWAE say that it is doable but their wording recently has gotten a little more iffy (voids the warranty).

My experience: I have moved two separate units. Both problem-free (I think).
The first, a 12k, went off without a hitch. Works great a year later.
The second was a warranty replacement of the outdoor unit on an 18k. I'm about to do it AGAIN because the replacement is itself being warranty replaced. It's a long story but I don't see how it could be the fault of the dis/reassembly (and neither did Mrcool) .... third time's a charm?

So, any interesting storied out there? Tips and pointers?
The only thing of note that I've done was a little smear of Nylog on the refrigerant connector interfaces on reassembly.

I have seen a couple of you-tube videos for (non-mrcool) mini splits that outlines a procedure for getting the refrigerant into the outdoor unit (while running, close the high side valve, then after a few seconds the low side valve, then shut off). I did this on neither of mine (didn't know about it).

Pumping down a scroll compressor isn't recommended they don't do well below 30 lbs. Thats what ur doing by closing hi pressure valve. By the epa should be reclaimed.

 

[swoozle]

Pumping down a scroll compressor isn't recommended they don't do well below 30 lbs. Thats what ur doing by closing hi pressure valve. By the epa should be reclaimed.

Just passing on the observation from the youtube vids. And apparently a major mini split mfgr (hmmm, mitsubishi? can't remember) recommends this technique. Note that the compressor is only pumping for a few seconds at low pressure.

Also, this only pulls the refrigerant back into the compressor just as it was when new. Certainly if a unit is going to be scrapped the refrigerant must be reclaimed but that's a whole other subject.

Btw, I did this today when installing the second warranty replacement. No problems and the new unit is working great.

 

[Mzungu]

Do you have a link for those videos. I'm interested because I want to swap out a 12k for a 18k. The 12 will move into my tool crib/bike rebuild room within my workshop once its completed. The 12 is oversized, but my load is all heating. I was going to buy a reclaim unit, but if I can get by without one all the better.

 

[swoozle]

Do you have a link for those videos. I'm interested because I want to swap out a 12k for a 18k. The 12 will move into my tool crib/bike rebuild room within my workshop once its completed. The 12 is oversized, but my load is all heating. I was going to buy a reclaim unit, but if I can get by without one all the better.

Turns out it's not Mitsubishi, it's Pioneer. This first one is a Pioneer video. They shut the suction valve about the time the pressure hits zero, which is the way I did it.

At least one of these others lets it go negative, which doesn't seem like the best idea. When you take the gauge off, the schrader valve will backflow and let air into the line. I suppose you could disconnect the line first, but why take the added risk.

 

[Mzungu]

Turns out it's not Mitsubishi, it's Pioneer. This first one is a Pioneer video. They shut the suction valve about the time the pressure hits zero, which is the way I did it.

At least one of these others lets it go negative, which doesn't seem like the best idea. When you take the gauge off, the schrader valve will backflow and let air into the line. I suppose you could disconnect the line first, but why take the added risk.

Thanks, I am going to give this a shot with my Senville Aura.

 

[fitter30]

Just passing on the observation from the youtube vids. And apparently a major mini split mfgr (hmmm, mitsubishi? can't remember) recommends this technique. Note that the compressor is only pumping for a few seconds at low pressure.

Also, this only pulls the refrigerant back into the compressor just as it was when new. Certainly if a unit is going to be scrapped the refrigerant must be reclaimed but that's a whole other subject.

Btw, I did this today when installing the second warranty replacement. No problems and the new unit is working great.

Just pump it down to 20 psi or so and recover the rest, by then all the liquid wil be in the condenser and there will just be vapor to recover, You shouldnt pull the suction into a vacuum anyway doing a pumpdown, scroll or otherwise, youll just allow air/moisture into the system when you open it. Since mini's and other are using micro channel condensers there probably isn't enough room to hold the charge and compressor is either tripping a high pressure switch or opening a internal relief valve. This is diy not a trained mechanic and a epa refrigerate license is needed.