Moving big Snap On Box-Loading/Securing

[MBabs]

My dad always wanted me to have his tools after his passing. The time has come. I've been trying to figure out easiest and least expensive way to do this safely myself the last couple weeks.

This is essentially his box (KR1000 with side box and top chest) but his is the 70th anniversary, and it's loaded.



It has to go about 400 miles. I have a Chevy Tahoe and my plan as of now is to rent a U-Haul Utility trailer with load ramp. Use a heavy duty come-along to assist, and myself + one other guy to push it in. I think I'm going to leave the top chest behind for my mom to keep some basic tools in, plus I want the flat work surface and easier loading. I'm also probably going to have to unload some tools and put them in the back of the Tahoe because the weight limit on the trailer is only 2000lbs.

So from my memory there really is not any secure tie downs on this thing. Just the handle on the side. Any recommendations on what to secure the come-along cable to in order to pull this thing up the ramp? Is the handle enough? Maybe wrap a 2 point sling around the box? Just looking for ideas. I really don't have any experience moving something this big/heavy.

As for securing it, again with no anchors on the box itself, it seems best to wrap it in several multi point straps then secure those to trailer with ratchet straps.

When this was moved in the past, it was always remove the drawers, load it into U Haul, put drawers in and repeat for unloading. I really want to avoid this if at all possible.

Thanks for all thoughts/suggestions. It's not going anywhere, I just want a good plan of attack in place before going to get it.

 

[Pipe]

I've used those 2 foot axle straps around the casters then they hook to a strap. I'll see if I have picture.

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[gdocktor3]

Do not use the handles for pulling and only as a backup for securing. Wrap some straps around it with some towels or something soft on the corners to pull it. Once it's on the trailer I would cover it with moving blankets or something soft to protect the paint, if you care, and try to fit it in a corner of the trailer. This way two of the sides are supported and you can use the straps so they are pulling it into that corner. This will make strapping it much easier than if you had it directly in the middle or something with no structural support. Then put a few over the top to keep it from tipping. Make sure you lock the casters also. Don't use chains or anything like that and not thin cheapo straps either. You need nice 2" or 3" minimum heavy duty straps.

Oh and lock the drawers! Or wrap them with plastic shipping wrap to keep them closed.

 

[3 Gun Shooter]

A short drive with that toolbox full in a trailer without brakes is ok, just watch your speed, but 400 miles, get a trailer with brakes. The loaded trailer will push a Tahoe all over the place braking. I would just rent a U Haul smaller box truck, keep the box slightly in front of the rear axle of the truck.

Get a couple 2" ratchet straps, you can secure the box.

 

[metaleltr]

I moved mine in an enclosed trailer with a wooden deck(this is important) I screwed 2x4 in front and behind the wheels so it can't go back and forth. Then it was strapped in every direction to th walls and floor of the trailer with 2 inch straps. That little motorcycle trailer-just big enough for a 55" master series- would have had to flipped for it to move. Towed just fine in 3rd gear behind my s10 blazer.

 

[Davefr]

Based on my experience:
1. Unload the contents except for the small/lightweight stuff. (you'll be glad you did and it'll be gentler on the box.).
2. Yes, rent the U-Haul with the tailgate ramp. It's perfect for moving these boxes.
3. All it takes is two guys to push it into the trailer. No cumalong needed if it's mostly unloaded.
4. Secure it with ratchet straps to the trailer. Make sure the weight is towards the tongue.

 

[joel63]

Based on my experience:
1. Unload the contents except for the small/lightweight stuff. (you'll be glad you did).
2. Yes, rent the U-Haul with the tailgate ramp. It's perfect for moving these boxes.
3. All it takes is two guys to push it into the trailer. No cumalong needed if it's mostly unloaded.
4. Secure it with ratchet straps to the trailer. Make sure the weight is towards the tongue.

That's what did I when I moved my boxes.
I thinks it will cause a lot stress on the boxes during transit.
Sorry about your dad's passing.
Good luck with your move.

 

[bry@n]

When I moved my dad's box, I removed everything and out it into buckets. I removed the top box and strapped it down. The lower I chocked the wheels and used an x pattern to strap down using rubber against the box to protect the paint.

Worked for me in the 100 miles I drove.

 

[Yesmar]

I took all the tools out of my box and got it into my truck by lifting each end a bit and putting stuff under it till i got it up enough to get my trans jack under one end then had my girl pump it up while i lifted the other end till i could back the truck tailgate under it, then with the casters on the truck and the other end on the trans jack i just rolled it in the truck. I got it out with a lift.

I took the tools out for 2 reasons, 1 weight for lifting , and 2 becuase the weight of the tools in the drawers i didnt want to stress out the drawer slides, bumps in the road ect. while driving.

theres better easier ways to load and unload a tool box but this works by yourself and not a scratch

 

[Richard Cranium]

Also go to any appliance store and get some of the card board corners that they put into the appliance boxes. To put around your tool box so that it don't rub against the trailer or so that the straps don't scratch it. (free and useful)
Also make sure that you put a strap to keep the drawers shut, Even if you lock them. Trust me on this one. I had a Equipto box come open while I was moving it, even with the drawers locked.

 

[MBabs]

Good stuff so far...especially securing drawers. Did not think of that one other than making sure they're locked

 

[gte718p]

I don't ever unload them when I buy them.

I take a jack and set them on 4x4 cribbing and take the weight off the wheels. Wrap then in HF moving blankets, and strap them down very similar to davefr's picture. If I'm going a long way I will put towels over the tools in the drawers. It is amazingly effective at keeping everything in place.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Lots of good ideas above . . . . mainly LOTS and LOTS of blankets, towels, rags, etc to soften up all those friction points. Also, you can never too many ratchet straps, bungee cords, and wooden blocks when transporting load like that.

If floor of trailer is wood, you can also screw a scrap of 2x4 to floor to keep wheels from going anywhere if the box tries to move around. So bring cordless drill and screws along with the scrap blocks.

Be absolutely sure you have cushion (rag or towel duct-taped in place) under any strap that is directly on metal edge, as the bumps while driving can cut the strap in half.

Good luck and condolences for your dad's passing.

 

[Greg85mcss]

Based on my experience:
1. Unload the contents except for the small/lightweight stuff. (you'll be glad you did and it'll be gentler on the box.).
2. Yes, rent the U-Haul with the tailgate ramp. It's perfect for moving these boxes.
3. All it takes is two guys to push it into the trailer. No cumalong needed if it's mostly unloaded.
4. Secure it with ratchet straps to the trailer. Make sure the weight is towards the tongue.

I did it the same way. Loaded the 600lb box myself but you're probably going to need a second person since you have a heavier setup. Maybe try taking the top off if possible. I only had 2 ratchet straps. Used one over & the other attached to the front of the trailer & wrapped around the back. Tarps underneath to protect the box. If the straps are new they'll stretch so re tighten them after a few miles. That got me 150 miles no problem. I had just purchased mine so it was empty but I agree that the weight would probably stress the drawers.


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[geartow]

Wrap it with saran wrap .most locks work on gravity . The bouncing will unlock it momentarly enuff for the drawers to open. Next thing you have bent drawers.

 

[JKady]

Load the box sideways at the front of the truck/trailer you plan on using. The likelihood of it falling over backward is minimal compared to side to side or forward in a panic stop.

I've moved my boxes several times, never unloaded them except for loose items on top or on the open drawers of the bottom of a cart.

 

[K-Dog]

Don't be like this guy....

 

[K-Dog]

Or this guy either ....

 

[WhiffySpark]

Or this guy either ....

That guy had to be really pissed off at his employer for that

I've moved a loaded epiq on the uhual trailer before. Dull of tools, 2 carts, cabinet, microwave, etc completely packed. Handled the weight fine

I strapped in the corner after wrapping it in blankets and floor mats

 

[Itinerant]

When I moved my 1022 (about 75 miles) we 4-pointed it on my buddy's ATV trailer by putting the ratcheting straps around the casters and running them to the attachment points on the corners of the trailer. The box never moved and my friend drives like a maniac.

As has been said, unload the box. Especially on such a long trip.

 

[KTMrider]

Tip, once you roll it up on the trailer, Jack the box up and place 6x6s under the metal frame. Get the box off the casters rest it on the wood then strap it down.


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[cgrutt]

Sorry about your dad.

I'd cut a piece of plywood the size of the front of the box and strap it to the box to prevent any draws from opening. I'd also put it on a piece of plywood to distribute the weight better on the trailer (assuming trailer has wood boards and doesn't have plywood and/or steel floors already). I'd also tie it down from four corners of trailer. You don't want that box rolling. I like the idea of blocking it on a couple of 4x4s (or whatever size you need) to take weight off casters. Take it really, really slow especially if you have a single axle utility trailer with no brakes. Not sure how much tooling you have there but the weight adds up quickly. I just moved a heavy lathe about 75 miles with my F150 and a 17' tandem axle landscaping trailer with electric brakes and it was pushing the truck around. 400 miles is a pretty long haul for that kind of weight on a small utility trailer. I'd really consider renting a box truck or larger trailer with brakes if it were me.

Good luck!

 

[MoparMarv]

I would take the top box off to keep the center of gravity low. The tools will most likely be a mess in the drawers after the trip. I would empty some of it out into boxes or take the drawers out to make it easier to move and load(you will be putting everything back in place after that trip anyways). I have a similar sized box I moved home a few months back. Pretty much did the blanket over the top and did straps over the top and around the front of the box to the back of the trailer and back of the box to front of the trailer. I like the jacking it up and putting cribbing under it idea. My 5x8 trailer has an extruded metal floor so it does not do well with all the weight of the box in one spot under the wheels. I moved mine 70 miles home like that. It was a little more weight than I wanted on it but felt more comfortable with the sides on the trailer than the open car trailer. Plus it was lower to the ground. Given the fact you have a Tahoe trailer brakes would be helpful but you could live without them but that's my opinion.

 

[espyking83]

Or this guy either ....

That guy is a ****** BOSS

 

[fatfillup]

I have bought, sold and moved a lot of tool boxes. I always take most of the weight out of the drawers before moving them. Trailers don't ride smoothly and ever bump you hit jolts the tools and the impact multiplies the effects of their weight on the slides. Basically you beat the slides to death. Short trip not a big deal but I always take the weight out. Pack the tools in boxes and totes.

Secondly, you always want to strap the box against the headboard of the trailer or truck. That way you have a solid connection. I use one 2 inch wide strap to secure most boxes, a second across the top if there is a top box or a work surface. Note, I had a stainless top fly off a box once because i didn't think to secure it.

I also lock the box to make sure the drawers don't open going down the road. If no lock I run a strap around the drawers.

Try to have a window of good weather so the box doesn't get rained on.


Of course this is your decision, but does your Mom want and or need the top box to keep tools in for her use. I would ask her before assuming. She may just need a small top box and would prefer to have the space.

Good luck on your move.

 

[MBabs]

I use one 2 inch wide strap to secure most boxes, a second across the top if there is a top box or a

What do you attach to on the box? Using the casters as some have suggested seems good. What kind of single strap have you used with success? Asking specifics because there's alot of different configurations of ratchet straps out there with different connections.

Thanks to everyone for some great advise.

 

[Davefr]

What do you attach to on the box? Using the casters as some have suggested seems good. What kind of single strap have you used with success? Asking specifics because there's alot of different configurations of ratchet straps out there with different connections.

Thanks to everyone for some great advise.

I would never use a single strap. (ie single point of failure). Refer to my image. Two straps in each orientation with two of them wrapped all the way around the box. (those will also prevent the drawers from opening). Maybe it's overkill but I prefer it that way. Ratchet straps are relatively cheap, tool boxes aren't.

I don't see any need to attach anything to the casters or crib the box as long as it's unladen. Casters are designed for a fully loaded box. I don't think the stress from a road trip will hurt them if the box is mostly empty.

 

[cgrutt]

I don't see any need to attach anything to the casters or crib the box as long as it's unladen. Casters are designed for a fully loaded box. I don't think the stress from a road trip will hurt them if the box is mostly empty.

Casters may be able to support weight but trailer may not. Cribbing distributes weight of box across wider part of trailer. It also prevents it from rolling (I know strapping should stop rolling too). Of course, if its just the box it probably won't matter. Box and tools might be too much weight for trailer. If you hit a bump hard enough small contact area could break a board, box drops/shifts and you risk losing it. Just my opinion...

 

[fatfillup]

I use 2 inch nylon ratcheting straps with hooks on the ends similar to what is used on tractor trailers.

Davefr, I hear you on single point of failure but the big strap is overkill so I have no fear. I also never use a tarp or moving blanket as I have had them flap in the wind and mark paint. Note, I move heavy machines and drums of soap everyday so I likely have more experience and confidence in hauling things that are heavy, mobile and top heavy.

But to each his own and there is more then one way to skin a tool box

 

[mnoeltne]

I got a bunch of plastic storage containers at a big box store, and emptied the heavier items into those.

As a bunch of people above have mentioned, I rolled the base into a corner with the drawers facing the wall of the trailer, and strapped it down with blankets over it. The top went into the other corner with the drawers facing the wall also. The containers just got stacked in and tied down.

It rode fine for 700 miles.

Sorry to hear of your loss. My box became mine two years ago for the same reason.

 

[BD1]

IF you decide to jack the box up , I would have wood between box and jack. If you have two jacks, you could span the box with wood like a 2x12 or 4x4 and use one jack on either side of the box.

 

[Davefr]

Casters may be able to support weight but trailer may not. Cribbing distributes weight of box across wider part of trailer.

That's a very good point. However the metal floor of these U-Haul trailers is pretty darn stout. However there are a ton of utility trailers out there that look half rotten from sitting in the elements full time.

 

[90zcar]

Rent a u haul motorcycle trailer. The ramp is so big you should be able to push the toolbox right up onto it with another person.
This is a picture of the trailer I rented for $17 two years ago when I picked up my double bank SNAPON KRL
I strapped it to the head of the trailer with one 3" wide strap with a big blanket over the whole thing. Just use common sense and you should be fine. No need to go over the top and build wooden pallets and jigs.

Never got to take a picture of it on the trailer


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[K-Dog]

^^^ Damn gas is expensive there !!

 

[WhiffySpark]

Bring a piece of plywood to get it up the ramp lip on the uhual trailer

 

[90zcar]

^^^ Damn gas is expensive there !!

As I said that was 2 years ago
...and yeah I think we put a little piece of plywood to get up over the lip of the gate.

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