Moving / Cutting 5'x8'x2" Steel Plate

[climb.on]

I have access to a 5'x8'x2" steel plate if I can move it. Weighs about 2700# This thing will be tricky to move because access is limited. The building was built around it. It's been used as a bench but it's not attached to it's base it's against a wall on 2 sides and about 4' of space on the other 2 sides and has to go through a 4' doorway. No forklift access to the room it's in. I'd like to get it up on edge and roll it on machinery skates, but not too sure how to get it up on edge and how to keep it on edge as we roll it.

I'd use it for a welding / fabrication table and as much as I would like to have a table that size, I think it would be too big for my space. I think 3'x'5 is more what I'd like. So one idea, is to cut it in place and move the 2 pieces. I have torches, but I've never cut anything thicker than 1/4" or 3/8" so I'm not sure if cutting is realistic or not. Some you tube videos make it look very doable...but I'm skeptical. Perhaps 2" is just too much for a fab table anyway. I like overkill, but would 2" be just silly?

Any ideas how to move and cut it?

 

[RAMBIN]

you can cut 2" with a torch but too find the tip in your local store good luck... and how much oxygen do you have on hand! I think you got the right idea with the rollers.. pry it off the ground with a pinch bar slowly block it up on some wood till you can get a good jack under it... get a few guys to help once its up on a 45 or so you will be able to tip it up and balance on the rollers.... carefully so no one gets squashed... actually if you have the width build a wide enough cart that has some bracing to stop it from falling sideways... not sure how wide you access is. must be 36" at the minimum I would think?

 

[FJ 432]

I would have to pass. Too much thickness for me.

 

[climb.on]

you can cut 2" with a torch but too find the tip in your local store good luck... and how much oxygen do you have on hand! I think you got the right idea with the rollers.. pry it off the ground with a pinch bar slowly block it up on some wood till you can get a good jack under it... get a few guys to help once its up on a 45 or so you will be able to tip it up and balance on the rollers.... carefully so no one gets squashed... actually if you have the width build a wide enough cart that has some bracing to stop it from falling sideways... not sure how wide you access is. must be 36" at the minimum I would think?

It's currently laying flat at bench height. Doorway to the room it's in is 4' wide.

I would have to pass. Too much thickness for me.

Yah the more I think about it...just might not be worth the hassle. But I'm not ready to let it go just yet...

 

[readhead]

That plate is 3,264#. Get it to a large fab shop and they can put it on either a plasma or OF table and make it any size you want. Free isn't always cheap.

 

[matt_i]

Best imo (if it fits) is to build an angled stand that's part of a pallet-base, 2x timbers, structural screws. Gussets, etc. Or a weldment. Lay the plate down with an engine hoist assuming it has the reach. Like those jet turbine boats you see going down the highway.

Putting a heavy panel on the vertical with a barely constrained lower edge is a recipe for disaster if you ask me. That could be changed somewhat if you had sets of wheels (casters) attached to 'pockets' that you drop the edge into and could be clamped to the plate. More or less enough width to keep it from going tippy.

I don't know if the "dry cut" saws can go deep enough but that would be my choice, but the two halves have to be perfectly balanced...can't afford to pinch the blade or have the halves collapse in or out.

It might be a good idea to rent/borrow a magnet drill and put some tapped holes, just going to throw out 5/8-11 in various spots to install swivel lifting rings to assist in rigging the plate. They could probably go into the 2" edge if you can get the drill clamped, to avoid messing up the flat surface you'd eventually use for the benchtop.

 

[climb.on]

That plate is 3,264#. Get it to a large fab shop and they can put it on either a plasma or OF table and make it any size you want. Free isn't always cheap.

Very true.

Best imo (if it fits) is to build an angled stand that's part of a pallet-base, 2x timbers, structural screws. Gussets, etc. Or a weldment. Lay the plate down with an engine hoist assuming it has the reach. Like those jet turbine boats you see going down the highway.

Putting a heavy panel on the vertical with a barely constrained lower edge is a recipe for disaster if you ask me. That could be changed somewhat if you had sets of wheels (casters) attached to 'pockets' that you drop the edge into and could be clamped to the plate. More or less enough width to keep it from going tippy.

I don't know if the "dry cut" saws can go deep enough but that would be my choice, but the two halves have to be perfectly balanced...can't afford to pinch the blade or have the halves collapse in or out.

It might be a good idea to rent/borrow a magnet drill and put some tapped holes, just going to throw out 5/8-11 in various spots to install swivel lifting rings to assist in rigging the plate. They could probably go into the 2" edge if you can get the drill clamped, to avoid messing up the flat surface you'd eventually use for the benchtop.

Good ideas thanks!

 

[dr_clyde]

Best imo (if it fits) is to build an angled stand that's part of a pallet-base, 2x timbers, structural screws. Gussets, etc. Or a weldment. Lay the plate down with an engine hoist assuming it has the reach. Like those jet turbine boats you see going down the highway.

Putting a heavy panel on the vertical with a barely constrained lower edge is a recipe for disaster if you ask me. That could be changed somewhat if you had sets of wheels (casters) attached to 'pockets' that you drop the edge into and could be clamped to the plate. More or less enough width to keep it from going tippy.

I don't know if the "dry cut" saws can go deep enough but that would be my choice, but the two halves have to be perfectly balanced...can't afford to pinch the blade or have the halves collapse in or out.

It might be a good idea to rent/borrow a magnet drill and put some tapped holes, just going to throw out 5/8-11 in various spots to install swivel lifting rings to assist in rigging the plate. They could probably go into the 2" edge if you can get the drill clamped, to avoid messing up the flat surface you'd eventually use for the benchtop.

I was thinking something along these lines as well.

You want to be able to control this load very carefully. That thing is no joke heavy, and is very dangerous.

I would thread a couple of holes on the 4 corners. Thread in some swivel lifting rings, and use one or two engine hoists to get it on the floor.

Once on the floor, you can use one hoist to pick it up on edge, and load it onto a waiting custom built dolly. Look at the panel carts that granite countertop guys use. You'll want to build one that can handle 2 tons, so you're gonna need some heavy duty casters. Keep it on a controlled slight angle, so its not tippy.

This is not a trivial rig. You're gonna need to get this plate for almost free to make it worth rigging out.

But, I would go for it. That's a hell of a chunk of steel.

 

[welder4956]

you can cut 2" with a torch but too find the tip in your local store good luck... and how much oxygen do you have on hand! I think you got the right idea with the rollers.. pry it off the ground with a pinch bar slowly block it up on some wood till you can get a good jack under it... get a few guys to help once its up on a 45 or so you will be able to tip it up and balance on the rollers.... carefully so no one gets squashed... actually if you have the width build a wide enough cart that has some bracing to stop it from falling sideways... not sure how wide you access is. must be 36" at the minimum I would think?

Yes, you can cut 2" thick carbon steel plate using a #3 cutting tip. See attached tip chart for regulator settings. Just be careful that both sides are supported before cutting so it does not collapse and hurt someone. You can block it up with wood timbers.

Edit: Food for thought - if you cut a 3' x 5' piece it will still weigh around 1200 lbs. You will need a half dozen or more people to carry or lift it onto a truck. If you rent a truck with a lift gate, you "may" be able to move it on dollys to the door and get it on the lift gate. Still going to need a few friend to move it. Maybe you could call a local moving company and let them deal with it. Probably cheaper than the hospital bill.

 

[1953mercury]

Bend some 1/2" or better round stock into a " U " shape and weld them on the long edge with a 120V MIG welder. Hobart 140 or similar. Then fab up a pair of triangulated braces as wide as will fit through the door, with HD cast wheels with a 3" channel between the two, to set the bottom edge in. Weld the braces right to the plate once in place. All fabbed on site. If there is room height wise, you could reach in with a backhoe to set it on edge in the channel and tow it out with the machine, and set it on a 7k or better trailer, and Bob's your uncle. Mike

 

[matt_i]

Missed one key point above...once the plate is angled, use a pallet jack to roll it out.

I would also recommend thinking long-term about this. Not sure of your rigging capabilities but its going to be a pain every time you have to move it forevermore into the future. I'd recommend the pallet jack again, even if you have to temporarily bolt in cross-tubes. That's good for getting around on the smooth concrete in the shop, but getting it up on a trailer should you move across town or cross country is going to be another time-consuming exercise.

If you have a prime mover (forklift, boom truck, HD tractor, backhoe, etc) that's capable of lifting it in one pick no big deal then but consider the potential pathways into the future also.

 

[climb.on]

This is not a trivial rig. You're gonna need to get this plate for almost free to make it worth rigging out.

Correct

Missed one key point above...once the plate is angled, use a pallet jack to roll it out.

I would also recommend thinking long-term about this. Not sure of your rigging capabilities but its going to be a pain every time you have to move it forevermore into the future. I'd recommend the pallet jack again, even if you have to temporarily bolt in cross-tubes. That's good for getting around on the smooth concrete in the shop, but getting it up on a trailer should you move across town or cross country is going to be another time-consuming exercise.

If you have a prime mover (forklift, boom truck, HD tractor, backhoe, etc) that's capable of lifting it in one pick no big deal then but consider the potential pathways into the future also.

I have a skid loader with forks, but things can get interesting lifting over about 2300lbs. Just depends what I am doing with the load...but you're right, this thing at full size with a base, would be way way over my limit. Another reason I'd consider reducing the size.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

What structure is above it, can 2 block & tackle or better yet a pair of come-a-longs be rigged overhead to lift it up then onto the floor?

 

[readhead]

Being in the steel fab and erection business I can't think of any time that I wished I had a 2" table. It just isn't practical. Go buy a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plate and build a nice table and move on.

 

[rustyjames]

Being in the steel fab and erection business I can't think of any time that I wished I had a 2" table. It just isn't practical. Go buy a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plate and build a nice table and move on.

I agree, 2" is just way too much to deal with, and then there's risk involved dragging it around.

 

[sberry]

It's a pain to clamp to. You can cut it but it's really a skilled job. I might get a track torch. I would just as soon have a 1/2 plate.

 

[mike_dmt]

I would jut focus on safety, no matter what you end up doing. That much weight, and sounds like the OP isn't a professional mover.(no offense,OP). Could be a recipe for problems. People start losing hands and feet when that kind of load slips.

Not that it isn't worth doing if a guy has to have it. But I'm in the crowd saying to cut it up a little and move it in smaller, more manageable pieces.

Take pics so we can see how you end up doing it.

You could always cut part of it into small pieces and sell them off as striking plates for guys that don't have $1k laying around for an anvil. That could offset your investment a little too.

 

[rsanter]

If it was me and I really wanted it...
If you can support it evenly, I would use a circular saw for metal. Toothed blade not abrasive.
I would set a straight edge and would only cut 1/4” depth at a time. Just keep going with it.
I would use a cherry picker and one of those hardware store type carts that hold the material on edge

I’m thinking you can cut it in three pieces, have one bench top for yourself , and two to sell

 

[kazlx]

You'd be there all day with a circular saw, not to mention it will be hell trying to stay in the cut and keeping it lubed once you get deep. Cut it with a torch. It doesn't have to be pretty. Angled 'stone' type dollies are the way to go. I'd build a skid made for a pallet jack. Just prop it on that and then grab it. Or maybe even just look into renting a fork. Just weld some D rings to it to tie off.

That being said, 2" is overkill. It would be cool, but might not be wort the effort to just get a 3x5" piece.

 

[gorilla]

Bend some 1/2" or better round stock into a " U " shape and weld them on the long edge with a 120V MIG welder. Hobart 140 or similar. Then fab up a pair of triangulated braces as wide as will fit through the door, with HD cast wheels with a 3" channel between the two, to set the bottom edge in. Weld the braces right to the plate once in place. All fabbed on site. If there is room height wise, you could reach in with a backhoe to set it on edge in the channel and tow it out with the machine, and set it on a 7k or better trailer, and Bob's your uncle. Mike

How much penetration do you expect to get with a 120 volt MIG weldor that puts out mabey 60 amps at best on a 2" steel plate?

 

[climb.on]

Well it was an interesting idea, but I'm going to bag it. I'm sure I could do it, one way or another, but there isn't enough advantage (or cool factor) for me to go through with it. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.

 

[readhead]

Wise choice.

 

[1953mercury]

How much penetration do you expect to get with a 120 volt MIG weldor that puts out mabey 60 amps at best on a 2" steel plate?

That's a 140 amps out. If you cant get a good weld with that, it's the guy welding, not the machine. Mike

 

[BD1]

Call a local machinery mover company, it might not be that bad.

 

[nelstomlinson]

How much penetration do you expect to get with a 120 volt MIG weldor that puts out mabey 60 amps at best on a 2" steel plate?

With some beveling, he can get 100% on the 1/2" stuff we're talking about attaching to the 2" stuff. Does he need more than 100% on the thin stuff?

 

[nelstomlinson]

Well it was an interesting idea, but I'm going to bag it. I'm sure I could do it, one way or another, but there isn't enough advantage (or cool factor) for me to go through with it. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.

I'm assuming the owner of the plate really wants it out of there. Could you rent a plasma cutter on a track and slice it into bar stock? Maybe you could make usable, movable pieces from it.

 

[RAMBIN]

a plasma that will cut 2" plate... or 1" plate for that matter is a rare rig not something your gonna buy at your local harbor freight

 

[climb.on]

I did a little looking at plasma cutters, thinking this might be a good reason to justify getting one...I stopped looking when 1-1/4 cutting capacity cost about 3k. No way a rigger is charging less that $500 to move it without being able to get a forklift to it. And I'd still need to cut it since I can't move it with my skid loader once it got to my shop.

As was suggested, I'll just buy a piece of stock the size I need it for $300-$500 before I spend at least that getting this thing moved.

I was telling my father-in-law about this and he just roared...claiming, "the freaking Bismark's hull wasn't even that thick!" LMAO (of course it was actually much thicker but the point was well taken)

 

[kazlx]

Good choice. If it was an easy move and you could grab it with a fork or something, it would be a no brainer. But, for what you want, it's way more hassle than it's worth and you're better off just buying exactly what you need.

 

[welder4956]

That's a 140 amps out. If you cant get a good weld with that, it's the guy welding, not the machine. Mike

I'm guessing you have not tried welding to something with as much mass as that 2" plate using short circuiting mig. I would not trust it to hold during lifting, if it doesn't fall off when you start tensioning the lifting device. The cooling rate is much to fast for short circuit mig to fuse properly to a 2" plate.

 

[Milton Shaw]

A old style cutting torch on a motorized track would give you a cleaner cut than you could ever get with saw/plasma handheld. Some older shops may still have one you can rent or pay them to cut that piece up for you. I read your last post and realize you have passed but the tack torch idea would work on anything steel in just about any thickness you could find. That is how a lot of stuff has been cut over the years think ships and armor plating more than 6" thick. Plasma torch hot enough to cut 6-12 inch plate would consume as much electricity as a small city and weight more than a fully loaded dump truck.

 

[Firstram]

We used to have a track torch, that thing was bad ***! The cut quality was amazing on 1.5" plate and I'm sure much thicker plate would be the same. Wish I still had it...

 

[IndyGarage]

If I wanted something like that, I would simply use some cribbing and a couple cheap bottle jacks to jack it up, move the table out from under it. Jack it back down 1/2 inch at a time on each end. Then tilt it up with a hoist using welded on lift rings and chain it to a fairly wide pair of steel racks with casters on them and roll it out.

To cut it I'd go to my welding supply store and rent a large plasma cutter from them for a half a day - done.

I moved a 12,000 lb press by myself one day with no help in a similar manner. You just have to understand leverage and move heavy stuff real slow and pay close attention to lift points and the physics - and always be ready to get out of the way if stuff goes haywire.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I'm guessing you have not tried welding to something with as much mass as that 2" plate using short circuiting mig. I would not trust it to hold during lifting, if it doesn't fall off when you start tensioning the lifting device. The cooling rate is much to fast for short circuit mig to fuse properly to a 2" plate.

Right, I haven't ever used a mig for anything but sheet metal. I was thinking stick.

 

[lmalcomb]

How much penetration do you expect to get with a 120 volt MIG weldor that puts out mabey 60 amps at best on a 2" steel plate?

I agree 100%