Moving garage

[freebird914]

Well it looks like I will be moving 1000 miles... I need opinions on moving shop equipment. I have a Sheldon lathe about 2000 lbs ... 16 foot wood flat bed ... I am thinking of building a dolly for under headstock and tailstock to move to trailer then lifting and setting on trailer and securing in middle of trailer ... and doing the same at the end ... Anyone else move their heavy shop equipment this way >>> Suggestions comments welcome

 

[cvairwerks]

You don’t want it on wheels once loaded. Too easy for it to shift during travel. Make sure you don’t overload the trailer and get the balance correct before you hit the road.

Had an 1800# load on wheels on my big flatbed and despite being well strapped and chained, during the 1700 mile trip, it moved around quite a bit on the trailer. Reset it three times enroute and it kept shifting.

 

[freebird914]

Thanks for advice ... Wasn't planning on leave wheels on but after reading you post I will build a cradle on the deck to prevent additional movement and make sure it is strapped ... Thanks for real advice ... Moving to Texas ...

 

[randydupree]

what you want to do is bolt some heavy timbers under the legs,4x4s at least,use them as skids and skid the lathe up on the trailer.
This will keep the legs from punching through the trailer deck and keep the legs spreading.
stick a bar through the headstock to pick it up,use a ******** each end of the bar.

 

[cvairwerks]

What area you coming to? We’re only about 3x the size of ‘bama..

 

[rsanter]

One friend bought a pickup and an enclosed trailer to move all his shop equipment.

Another friend hired a semi truck. They dropped the trailer off, he loaded it, then they drove it there. He unloaded it

Bob

 

[freebird914]

Outside San Antonio ... Thanks all ,,, I checked with a company hey want a LOT to move stuff ... I have a few months to figure it all out ... Will be asking alot of questions I am sure

 

[matt_i]

Easiest imo is to build or buy a gantry, pick up the lathe, back trailer under it, and then set down. Assuming it can be disassembled, now you have the solution for unloading it at the new location.

I would not recommend lifting the lathe by its spindle or chuck no matter how convenient that seems. Better imo is to sling under a cross-web thru the bedway, up close to the chuck and then use the carriage to adjust it for level. Of great importance for transport is to double secure the tailstock with a strap tail and not just rely on the clamping. If it comes loose and is lost along the way the lathe is very much handicapped not to mention being a huge danger to the vehicles behind.

Another tip is to use either cordura sleeves (ebay) or padding like old jeans or old bathmats as padding for web-straps. The sharp edges of the bedway can "saw" at the strap very effectively. Its best to try to make straps "independent" meaning they attach to the machine on one end and attach to the trailer on the other. Get 4 of those and you will be in good shape, as opposed to strapping from trailer to trailer and contacting the machine by friction.

If the trailer is yours or not, screw some 2x4 blocks to the deck with #10 torx screws (deck screws) to further assist the load from not moving while underway.

Rain is always a consideration while driving, a tarp can help, the best ones were wrapped around the lathe with a web-strap serving as a "belt". Any loose grommet should have a bungee of some sort, and if it does get wet, its best to open it all up as soon as its dry again and start air circulation. Otherwise it can easily become a terrarium environment inside of there especially if the sun starts shining. A coat of LPS-2, LPS-3, Boeshield, Fluid Film, etc is very cheap insurance for your bare metal surfaces as well.

I would not trust any "movers" to move a machine tool, its just me, but when I have seen it done they seemed absolutely clueless....they are not riggers....and their insurance is tilted to protect them. Imagine if they trashed your lathe and determined it was only 50% trashed at 10 cents per pound.....not a good scenario.

Hope everything goes smoothly and with minimal hitch.

 

[My Old Tools]

I only had to go about 100 miles, but I moved about 30,000# on a 16' utility trailer, a load at a time. Most loads were over weight. I had trailer brakes and the trailer is heavy duty, but still way overloaded most trips. I loaded with an engine hoist but fortunately had an overhead electric hoist to unload with. I moved a 13" metal lathe, mill, metal shaper, welder, 3 radial arm saws (14", 12", 12"), Powermatic 66, 16" Northfield jointer, 18" planer, 2 32" bandsaws, 2 14" bandsaws, 2 wood lathes, 5 42" toolboxes built into Steevo benches, a dozen Emmert vises, tons of tooling and other stuff. The heaviest items were around 2000# and all were loaded with the engine hoist. Its hard work. It takes a lot of time. Driving with a heavy load is nerve wracking and tiring. Lifting from above is generally safer, but be aware of top heavy items that want to turn over. A pallet jack from HF is a good investment as is an electric winch mounted on the front of the trailer. Both can ease your work loading. Dish washing liquid squirted on the trailer helps stuff slide and then rinses off easily. Ask me anything.

 

[83VillageRepair]

When I moved my shop 1000miles (including 3 lathes and a milling machine). I bought an ex-Mayflower 53ft Dry Van off of Truckpaper.com and filled it and then hired a trucker to move it. One that used to be a moving truck is important because it had E-track on the floors and walls. The most important part is getting the load balanced right and underweight.

Wade

 

[maxpat82]

Rent a telehandler to do all of you heavy lifting.

 

[freebird914]

Thanks for all the advice ... I am looking at options now ... This has given me a lot of information. and I am fortunate that I have time on my side...