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moving large machine tools

efncrx

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Cold, MN
Anyone have experience moving large (in size) and heavy machine tools or the equivalent?

I bought a large powered shear and the thing has got to weigh 2000lbs.

Unsure if a forklift is available on site, as that would make things too easy.

Thanks for your ideas and feedback!
 
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efncrx

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Cold, MN
There are equipment movers (rollers) ,rent two fork lifts, hire a company that moves heavy equipment. One of the scariest moves is one that is top heavy and ends up on top of someone.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBO-INDUSTR...162764?hash=item235ef7f10c:g:3i0AAOSw5IJWcEZf

https://marshall.craigslist.org/search/sss?search_distance_type=mi&sort=rel&query=machinery+movers

Thanks for the response! I was hoping to avoid hiring it out $$, but if I cant come up with a decent plan it Will probably end up that route, I'm cheap haha
 

Rookie2

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I've moved a few big generators, but the most dangerous was when a friend ask me to help move an 8' brake that he had on wheels, top heavy and went over , could have hurt us BAD !

also ....Pallet jacks
 

My Old Tools

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Hamrick Lake, TX
I've moved some 2000# equipment with an engine hoist, pipe rollers, and a come along. If its top heavy, be careful. You can lift one end at a time to get rollers under it. In general, I'd rather lift from above than take a chance on tipping over.
 

acmikee

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check your height at the lowest point. if a fork lift wont fit check the height of a mini grade all they are normally a couple of inches lower than a fork lift.
another option a pallet jack. lift a corner and put blocking if needed to get the pallet jack under it.
 

nadogail

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I have used sheet metal sandwiches that are filled with grease. They work fine for small movements. Other times pipe rollers, short pieces of strong pipe, not PVC are very useful.
 

Cyberbear

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I moved my 16" Southbend 2500 lb. lathe by myself w/o any problems, but I took it slow and easy. The fact that it was bolted to a couple of heavy oak skids made all the difference, that way I could easily roll it on pieces if 1/2" water pipe. If you are not working on a concrete floor it will be a tough job requiring more thought.
 

Thumper68

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Duluth MN
I usually rent a drop deck trailer, heard about them here and found a local rental place that has one. Made moving 10k+ of equipment and steel easy.

The deck drops down to the ground making it easy to get equipment on and off.

About $70 a day.
 

MushCreek

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I moved my entire machine shop (twice) by myself with an engine hoist and a flat bed trailer, plus assorted come-a-longs, pipes, pry bars, and a full vocabulary of un-church-like language. Be careful.
 

justanengineer

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JMO, but 2k lbs isnt heavy nor difficult to move regardless how top heavy or not. Just relax, take it slow, and you'll be surprised how easy it is. Like anything else there are any number of ways to move this. If feasible $50-100 to a towing monkey with a rollback is often the easiest to move, you can also use a standard wrecker's boom as a crane to lift onto/off trailers. If you need to move something around inside and dont have help otherwise, I get a couple skids lagged underneath then use 1" black iron (water) pipe rollers. If you need to attach skids a couple 3-6' pointed pinch bars (pry bars), preferably ones curved at the business end will make lifting each end of that weight manually pretty easy. As others mention - engine hoists, rented forklifts, and a small hydraulically dropping trailer (Sunbelt rents for ~$50) make life VERY easy for loading.
 

kbs2244

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For a start, get an estimate from some pros, just so you know if what you are trying to avoid is worth it.

Most of the pros I have watched use 4 foot pieces of 2 inch pipe and long "Johnson Bars" as levers to move stuff slowly through a building.
If you are going any distance, I like the roll back auto carrier idea once you have gotten it to the door.
 

jonjon1

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we had to move a 3200 lb diesel generator. SO it was on 6 legs, I measured the square legs, and make a plate with 4 sides so it cupped the units legs, and then put 4 casters on each plate. We went there with air powered bottle jacks, jacked it up just enough to lower it onto the plate I made. There was a hole in each square foot so while on the sight I figured drill my plate and bolt the wheels on, not that it was going anywhere BUT, safe is better than sorry and we had to wait for the trailer to get their anyway...

The trailer go there and we pushed that thing right to it (on cement), I could have pushed it alone, it moved like a shopping carriage (a bit harder to stop though, lol)...

And the bolting the plates on worked out great because when we picked it up with the machine after it was outside the building they stayed right on there....

A fork lift is normally the best bet for anything like this, they are also normally designed to be lifted by forks. I have a small wheel electric forklift that lifts 5000lbs, the trick is stay low, and come along chain it down if you are going over anything unlevel, or it is an off center top heavy load...
 

matt_i

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You need to establish the best estimate on the actual weight. Machine manual should have it, or exhaustively search the internet. Chances are if its a major manufacturer (Niagara, Peck/Stow, Pexto, Tennsmith, Chicago D+K to name a few) there is actual data out there.

Forklift is easiest minimum sweat solution. Guys who drive the forklift and truck for you (riggers) are available, you just write checks and mark the spot on the floor where you want it set.

Rollback wreckers and even a towtruck with a crane-arm is good if you have the right kind of lifting straps and skill set and training to use them safely. There is a knack to assessing the lift to ensure things don't get damaged, the straps don't get cut, and the lift point is above the center of gravity if at all possible. I've moved machines up to around 10k by myself, 25k with a crew of people.

I would recommend against trying to use 4 wheel moving dollies on any kind of jump shear or a powered version that's based on a jump shear (16ga x 52" is the class of machine I'm thinking of). Very good way to get hurt AND scrap out the machine. Lift from overhead unless a forklift is available.

The next question revolves around transport...do you have access to a trailer and tow vehicle...what's their respective capacities? does it have fenders that have to be worked over with the load? Do you have ratchet straps, how far are you transporting. What's the window of weather....many details here.

Relative to me giving advice: At one time I owned 50 tons of shop machinery, its been whittled down some, but I've been thru some easy stuff and some quirky stuff. One tip-over, a vertical bandsaw where I made a false assumption about a solid sheet base when in reality it was an open hole in the bottom of the cabinet...
 
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jonjon1

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I would recommend against trying to use 4 wheel moving dollies on any kind of jump shear or a powered version that's based on a jump shear (16ga x 52" is the class of machine I'm thinking of). Very good way to get hurt AND scrap out the machine. Lift from overhead unless a forklift is available.

.

I am curious as to why not, do you think it will tip? I have 2 tennsmiths in my shop BOTH are on casters permanently, we can roll them all around the sheet metal shop, we don't but we can, the only machines in our sheet metal shop that are not on casters are the plasma/cnc stuff, and thats only because them cant be moved, our shop tables are SUPER HEAVY and are on regular locking casters...
(we used to move all the equipment to the outside walls when not in use and store equipment inside the building when the weather was bad, so I put everything on heavy duty foot lock casters.... NEVER had a machine tip, or even threaten to)...

I have built casters for many things, to me its one of the easiest ways to move something, I made a steel base plate that we strap to the bottom of boilers so when we get them in basements where they have to go far (with low ceilings where a hand truck would be tough to use) and we have wheeled 6 section ci oil fired units 50-60 feet, then tipped them on 1 side at an angle, removed the dolly and done...
 

OldNeons

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As mentioned, establish an accurate weight and size the lifting apparatus accordingly. I moved a 6' pneumatic press brake 400 miles in my steel dump trailer. Forklifts on both ends made it easier though. I have used two skidsteers to move small outbuildings, I imagine they could work together on something like this too? I have moved my 4', 8', and 10' leaf brakes and 4' air and hydraulic shears with ramp trailer and no power equipment. Johnny Bars do the lifting. QUALITY Heavy duty US made 4 wheel dollies from Snap-Loc (i believe 1,000# each) provide the wheels. Take it slow,have help, and wear steel toed boots :)
 
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matt_i

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I am curious as to why not, do you think it will tip? I have 2 tennsmiths in my shop BOTH are on casters permanently, we can roll them all around the sheet metal shop, we don't but we can,

Its really top heavy. You wouldn't step on the pedal with it on casters, it would be an instant tipover. I have no idea what the OP has to deal with in terms of his driveway, the slope of it or any height difference to the garage slab. Box store 4 wheel dollies claim to be good for 1000#, you might as well have bought a banana if you put 1k on it. Heavily loaded, the casters will stop on something like a 1/16" pebble, and get to pushing hard on a top heavy thing, or prying it over the expansion joint to get into the garage is a recipe for a big problem.

My guess is since you work in a fab shop, the casters you use are built into frames that have a "drop" in them so the machine is barely off the floor and the casters are larger diameter and "outriggered" to invent a term.
 

DonPowers

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Its easy to get hurt moving heavy stuff, especially if its something you don't do on a regular basis. When accidents happen they happen fast, very fast. The way I look at it is if you have to ask how to do it, then you should think about hiring someone to move it.

Just my 2 cents.

Be Safe
 

jonjon1

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You need to establish the best estimate on the actual weight. Machine manual should have it, or exhaustively search the internet. Chances are if its a major manufacturer (Niagara, Peck/Stow, Pexto, Tennsmith, Chicago D+K to name a few) there is actual data out there.

Forklift is easiest minimum sweat solution. Guys who drive the forklift and truck for you (riggers) are available, you just write checks and mark the spot on the floor where you want it set.

Rollback wreckers and even a towtruck with a crane-arm is good if you have the right kind of lifting straps and skill set and training to use them safely. There is a knack to assessing the lift to ensure things don't get damaged, the straps don't get cut, and the lift point is above the center of gravity if at all possible. I've moved machines up to around 10k by myself, 25k with a crew of people.

I would recommend against trying to use 4 wheel moving dollies on any kind of jump shear or a powered version that's based on a jump shear (16ga x 52" is the class of machine I'm thinking of). Very good way to get hurt AND scrap out the machine. Lift from overhead unless a forklift is available.

The next question revolves around transport...do you have access to a trailer and tow vehicle...what's their respective capacities? does it have fenders that have to be worked over with the load? Do you have ratchet straps, how far are you transporting. What's the window of weather....many details here.

Relative to me giving advice: At one time I owned 50 tons of shop machinery, its been whittled down some, but I've been thru some easy stuff and some quirky stuff. One tip-over, a vertical bandsaw where I made a false assumption about a solid sheet base when in reality it was an open hole in the bottom of the cabinet...

Its really top heavy. You wouldn't step on the pedal with it on casters, it would be an instant tipover. I have no idea what the OP has to deal with in terms of his driveway, the slope of it or any height difference to the garage slab. Box store 4 wheel dollies claim to be good for 1000#, you might as well have bought a banana if you put 1k on it. Heavily loaded, the casters will stop on something like a 1/16" pebble, and get to pushing hard on a top heavy thing, or prying it over the expansion joint to get into the garage is a recipe for a big problem.

My guess is since you work in a fab shop, the casters you use are built into frames that have a "drop" in them so the machine is barely off the floor and the casters are larger diameter and "outriggered" to invent a term.

no drop in them, they are lower profile casters similar to these (I have used these also) http://www.zoro.com/revvo-swvl-plate-cstr-wbrake-550-lb-2-12-in-tssu-063-gn1s-b/i/G6936282/ and we step on the shears while they are on the casters, no outriggers, its a normal practice a lot of shops have their brakes and shears on casters, they are locked..

and as far as it being a banana peel, if you can get something with say 4 sets of 4 casters on it to move fast you must be pushing it with an f1 car, because they dont move fast, lol.. Them 16 casters will let you take it nice and slow, I use this method to move a lot of stuff, its seems the safest way.

If you check my compressor build thread, I am building a 1300 lb duplex compressor and I just put 4 casters on it, I have the pumps and motors mounted and it moves around nice in the garage, the floor isnt spotless and no pebbles stop it...
 

Aberdale

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I'm certainly no expert. I have moved my Monarch 10EE lathe, a Bridgeport mill, a 21" Buffalo drill press, and a very heavy 2" thick welding table successfully with a hand pallet jack. The 10EE weighs 3500 lbs.

If you have a smooth, level floor, I've found the pallet jack to be almost effortless and highly maneuverable in tight places. I don't lift the load very high, just enough to get the wheels to turn freely. Then, if I need to "put on the brakes", I can lower the load quickly to stop.

The important thing for me is to not be in a hurry, clear the path I am going to take, clean the floor really well, and to plan each step of the move before moving.
 

matt_i

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The pallet jack is ideal, but the issue with most jump shears (or driven versions based on those) is that there is literally no structure between the legs other than the platen/tabletop. Its an inverted "U". Could definitely be filled with a plywood-faced box to make up the difference in height. In the automated versions often the "U" is filled with air cylinders or a hydraulic power unit...but its on a sheetmetal shelf without enough structure to pick up the entire unit.

Relative to the casters on a shear or brake, I wouldn't work in a place with that low of a consideration for safety, because they are surely not going to care about me when I get seriously injured or worse, and can't feed my family anymore as a result. Everything obviously has a safety factor in it but I don't like to play that close to the edge.
 

J king

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when I built my shop I installed anchors in the floor around the perimeter in several places to attach comes longs to manipulate and place the machines.
it has worked very well. these are flush to floor and have a counter sunk stainless screw placed into the threaded hole.
I have positioned all my heavy machines this way. I believe 4500 is the heaviest.
 

joe_padavano

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I've had to move heavy machine tools several times. Just hire a tow truck. Get one with a hydraulic boom, which is really a small crane. The operator charged my $50 to hoist my milling machine onto my trailer, then followed me to the new location and hoisted it off. No muss, no fuss, no tipover threat, no sweat.
 

metalmagpie

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Seattle
How you move machinery is too general of a question. Do you want to move them around in your shop or do you want to move them to a shop in a different location? Very different problems.

For moving machines around in your shop, I suggest this approach:
http://nwnative.us/Grant/shop articles/mtd/projectWebPage.html

If you have a level driveway outside your shop, then to load or unload machines onto a flatbed trailer or truck I suggest a small welding project. Here's how mine turned out.

Enjoy, metalmagpie

gantryRebuildComplete-2.jpg
 

A_Pmech

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It's impossible to provide a suitable answer without first seeing a photo of the machine.
 
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efncrx

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Thanks a ton for the great advice and suggestions everyone! Got it moved with just my cousin and I! Forked it onto a trailer, pair of engine hoists to get it off the trailer! Now shes sitting on some cheap HF wheel dollies and takes 3 guys to move haha! Most importantly noone was hurt, it also cost me nothing to move it!

I now have a 72" wysong and miles power shear for $285!!!!

If someone wants to help me upload photos I'll show the big heavy thing off lol
 
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firworks

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Those look awesome!

They really are.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fEtZn3YrEEQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
You can see several times in this video people using one arm to move large loads. It's obviously got a lot of limitations as far as level and smooth surfaces and probably high volume of air but if you can use it, it's way cool.
 

OldNeons

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Now shes sitting on some cheap HF wheel dollies and takes 3 guys to move haha! Most importantly noone was hurt,

I'd be very careful with that much weight on those "cheap" HF dollies. I've seen the caster wheels crumble, the dolly frames crack, and the caster frames break apart, all under less of a load than what you have. Moving dollies are another great example of the old "you get what you pay for" adage.
 

Slackerzinc

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We had these at work, their kryptonite is saw cuts in the concrete. Stops them up solid. If you watch that video you can see the saw cuts filled in. Once we filled all the cuts in the floor they worked flawlessly.




They really are.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fEtZn3YrEEQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
You can see several times in this video people using one arm to move large loads. It's obviously got a lot of limitations as far as level and smooth surfaces and probably high volume of air but if you can use it, it's way cool.
 

matt_i

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One glaring issue with the air-casters is rigging the equipment on and off the casters is double or triple-handling. A portable air supply that's capable of keeping up with demand is another.
 

RogueFab

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Best way I have found is a tow truck. They will usually do it for under $75 at each end (load/unload). We're lucky and have a few forklifts.
 
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efncrx

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Cold, MN
Best way I have found is a tow truck. They will usually do it for under $75 at each end (load/unload). We're lucky and have a few forklifts.

Honestly it would have taken 5min with a flatbed, however my "friend" thought it was worth $163, so I spent 3hrs and moved It myself. For $0 noone even jammed a finger or got dirty and it was snowing during the process and extremely wet out.
 
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