Moving Mini-splits - coils or concrete?

[motterpaul]

Okay - here is the issue. Basically, flares **** in many ways, and here is one. Most installation manuals recommend that you create a solid mounting for the outdoor unit, usually a cement pad, or one of those "on the wall" brackets. Is there a reason for this?

Yeah - it's because most installers cut their line sets to be precisely interfaced with the outdoor flare fitting. But when you do this, you are pretty much making that flare unmovable because any motion can change the angle on the flare can move and ruin your connection. Ironically, I installed my first splits with coils in the line sets even though I saw people saying don't do it (collects oil) and other people saying it's OK (not enough oil is collected to make a difference).

All of my outdoor condensers have been on the ground (on wooden riser but movable), and I never had trouble re-positioning them because the coils acted like a shock absorber for the flare. But I just changed my installs to cut the copper so it just reaches the flare. I was cleaning a unit today (tore it apart to clean the blades) and afterward I saw oil under the low side outdoor flare.

I figure it happened because I was moving it pretty hard at times. I tested the unit and almost no PSI, and it happened very quickly.

Just another thing to keep in mind -- this is why installers recommend solid concrete footings or else brackets - so you never change the angle of the (lower) flares.

 

[Walkers]

Why do you keep moving the thing? Set it, and leave it alone. Yes, that is why the solid mounting base, to keep fatigue out of the joints.

 

[Jim greengo]

I never flare anything,but I'm not into mini splits.

 

[motterpaul]

I never realized before that moving them is a problem, but I also had coils on all of them. You do have to clean the fins sometimes, but now I know not to move them when I do.

 

[st185_cs]

I've had mini splits installed with coils in the lines because they are installed wall to wall and most units (if not all) require a minimum line length (around 10ft), and they have been working for decades (they still do, installed in the early 90s). To clean the exterior unit just kill the power and use a hose. If you want to do a more exhaustive cleaning, just remove the upper and top housing and clean the coil directly using water, avoiding the control board.

Moving the units makes absolutely no sense and it is fairly easy to create a leak. They should be mounted to a wall using a wall mount or to a concrete pad using rubber insulators.

 

[fitter30]

Minis used for heat need to be off the ground to drain water from the defrost mode. Set the unit up on cement blocks. Lines should be so short that theirs no movement. Theres expansion and contraction of the tubing all the time ,every cycle. Good tight flare usally isn't a problem with some movement.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Minis used for heat need to be off the ground to drain water from the defrost mode."
In many areas snow is an issue, minis should be installed at a height above blizzard level snow, if possible
As to flares, torqued to the correct level, flares should not leak with normal expansion/contraction of pipe/ground level as noted above. If you have issues get these....

Flaretite Seal 1/4" & 3/8"

1/4" & 3/8" Flaretite Seals

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