Moving workshop ~1700 miles. Advice?

[Lu-Max]

I am moving (for work) from the central US to the left coast in February. I am lucky that the company I work for will pay for moving my household goods, but they will not pay for moving my workshop (tools). Only "one toolbox of average size" is allowed along with 'standard' garage items (rakes, shovels, ladders, etc). I called the moving vendor, they describe this as one toolbox that can be carried. I certainly can't lift most of mine (I have a bunch), hell I can barely roll a couple of them. So now my only option is to rent a truck and haul my workshop myself (I got quotes from 3 freight companies, they were VERY expensive) using a U-Haul truck or similar. I have a some concerns.

The weight of the tools in most of my toolboxes is quite heavy, and I am concerned that the bouncing and swaying of the truck (along with loading and unloading) could damage the drawers and/or drawer slides, and I really don't want to screw up my nice tool storage. Do you think it would be smart to get some bins or very sturdy boxes and put my (heavier) tools in them for the move leaving the drawers mostly empty?

Second, I have a nice BuildPro fixturing table that I take very good care of. Since it will be in the truck and then in storage for maybe a month (possibly more) while I get settled, what type/brand of protectant should I coat the tabletop with to prevent corrosion during the move? When I bought the table the top was covered with brown paper that was saturated in some type of sticky oil.

Finally, if anyone else has done a big move like this, what recommendations would you have for moving a shop full of tools safely?

Thanks.

 

[softailgarage]

Check into a POD. I just moved a 2 car garage/complete shop with one, waw able to pack it all in. I dont know about long distance, but its worth a call.

 

[Lu-Max]

I hadn't thought of those, thanks! I'll definitely get a quote.

 

[jlenander]

I moved a 30klb shop myself from VA to AZ when I retired from the Army 4 years ago.
I did take large tools out of my boxes for the move. I used lots of rubber maid totes and the big action packers.
I had 2 mills, 2 lathes, 7 vidmars, etc, etc. The plan I came up with worked great. I had a local trucking company deliver a empty trailer to my house...I rented a forklift and loaded it over a 4 day period. The trucking company came to inspect it, I locked it, and 4 days later, it was delivered to my new house in AZ.
I had 2 days to unload it. Total cost was ~3700$.
If you want to drive it yourself, you could do the same with a large rental truck. The commercial ones even have hydraulic liftgates.Either way you'll need a LOT of ratchet tie downs!
Estimate the time you'll need, and then add a healthy margin...it took me nearly 2x the time I thought I'd need to pack and load.
Good luck!
Jon

 

[drivesitfar]

Lu-Max: if you are actually going to drive maybe get a nice enclosed trailer since it will be raining and snowing and if it was a summer move a bit open utility trailer might be an option.

that way you don't have milage on a moving truck and the big gas bill and you can either keep the trailer or sell it after the move. i'd buy a trailer i want to keep, but that's me.

also if you can load up tool boxes and other items on pallets you can ship with Fastenal and i work with the manager at the main warehouse in Western Washington if you are coming this way.

good luck

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I will be moving from CA to MT soon. 50k+ lbs.

My dad and I are most likely going to buy a 53' semi trailer (enclosed) and then have Uship type stuff bid on trailering it up. My ton trucks will be hotshotting the car trailer with the car on it, the 4x4 rig on the other.

We explored buying a 40' container as well...and may still do. Either way, the 53' trailer or the 40' container will become permanent storage once the final destination is reached. (For tractor tires and stuff that needs to stay out of the elements but not taking up space in the shop).

Today I saw a semi with the big 4 foot or 5 foot square plastic bins for fruit. They are stackable and hold a LOT of weight. I'm thinking if I buy a handful of those I can put tools in them, and have the tool boxes riding with lightweight stuff.

For drill presses and band saws and 30k press, I will have to build 2x4 frames around them, so they can stack with some organization and safety.

Everyday I'm playing this out in my mind trying to figure out the best way....

 

[Adam.C]

my advice is to unpack your boxes like a mover would do a kitchen. Wrap stuff in newspaper, pack into cardboard boxes and don't overload the boxes. I agree leaving a box loaded as the truck hits pot holes etc is not a good idea. No toolbox is designed for that.

As far as corrosion protection, I recommend a liberal coating of Vaseline. Only downside as compared to stuff like cosmoline, is Vaseline has a low melting temp. So if you think your stuff is going to sit somewhere hot, it could run off and make a mess.

 

[dutchgray]

Why don't you pack your table like how it came, a good coat of oil and then wrap with greaseproof paper.

 

[Spinaker01]

I moved a 30klb shop myself from VA to AZ when I retired from the Army 4 years ago.
I did take large tools out of my boxes for the move. I used lots of rubber maid totes and the big action packers.
I had 2 mills, 2 lathes, 7 vidmars, etc, etc. The plan I came up with worked great. I had a local trucking company deliver a empty trailer to my house...I rented a forklift and loaded it over a 4 day period. The trucking company came to inspect it, I locked it, and 4 days later, it was delivered to my new house in AZ.
I had 2 days to unload it. Total cost was ~3700$.
If you want to drive it yourself, you could do the same with a large rental truck. The commercial ones even have hydraulic liftgates.Either way you'll need a LOT of ratchet tie downs!
Estimate the time you'll need, and then add a healthy margin...it took me nearly 2x the time I thought I'd need to pack and load.
Good luck!
Jon

Having moved too many times over the past 15 years, I can say that all of the above recommendations are spot on. Do NOT move/ship toolboxes with tools in them -what a mess! It will also take a lot longer than you think-so does a kitchen BTW.

 

[Zedexseven]

I made a similar distance move...twice, 1st time I bought a 5 ton truck, after all expenses it cost me about $300 after selling it. 2nd time, I bought an enclosed trailer and actually came out ahead.

 

[bgarrett]

the least expensive---LEAST EXPENSIVE!---way to ship stuff is from one Fastenal store to another

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I moved my stuff from Michigan to Georgia in a 24' box truck with a hydraulic liftgate. That was awhile ago and I had a lot less stuff back then, but I'd consider that again.

 

[xtremek]

I drove/worked a mobile repair fleet repair truck a few years back and I just strapped my box into the back of the truck. I never had any issues.

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

My budget doesn't allow for a truck purchase at the moment, I'm trying to close on a new house out there so no new credit nor spending big chunks of cash allowed. My Ford Escape can't haul a very big trailer either. Only vehicle I own at the moment.

I emailed Fastenal, waiting to hear back. Also going to call "Pods" today.

I think a strong possibility is to rent a Penske 22' truck (~$700-800 total with a AAA discount not including gas) and load/unload it myself. I think most of my (mostly empty) boxes can roll up the 1000# rated truck ramp, and for loading my BuildPro table, attach the casters directly to the bottom of the table, then use my shop crane to lift it into the truck. The deck height looks fairly low, so I think my shop crane (engine hoist) will lift it high enough. Once it's in the truck roll it to the front of the box, then extend the feet down onto the bed. Everything else goes in after that 800# beast.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I think a strong possibility is to rent a Penske 22' truck (~$700-800 total with a AAA discount not including gas) and load/unload it myself. I think most of my (mostly empty) boxes can roll up the 1000# rated truck ramp, and for loading my BuildPro table, attach the casters directly to the bottom of the table, then use my shop crane to lift it into the truck. The deck height looks fairly low, so I think my shop crane (engine hoist) will lift it high enough. Once it's in the truck roll it to the front of the box, then extend the feet down onto the bed. Everything else goes in after that 800# beast.

See if you can get one with the hydraulic lift. Make things much easier.

 

[Lu-Max]

They don't show any lift equipped trucks on their site, so I emailed them and asked earlier today. Also asked what the deck heights were, for some reason that wasn't shown on their site either.

 

[mp23]

I would just rent the truck with the lift gate. If you are running short of space box some of the tools up and have them there waiting for the movers.

 

[Cope]

They don't show any lift equipped trucks on their site, so I emailed them and asked earlier today. Also asked what the deck heights were, for some reason that wasn't shown on their site either.

Ryder used to rent a 22' with a heavy lift gate.

 

[drivesitfar]

Lu-Max: Penske has 16 and 24 footers with lift gates and their pricing is better than Ryder in my area. the lift gates are different sizes on each of those trucks too so if you have something to lift with a 3 foot minimum foot print to lift you'll need the 24 footer because i think the 16 footer's lift is only 30 inches.

I totally understand about not wanting to incur any debt while in the process of buying a home and getting your mortgage.

also just an FYI. Penske trucks in my area are usually in almost new condition so well worth renting one if their pricing fits your budget.

as stated before Fastenal might be a good way to ship a few things if you have a local store that offers that service.

 

[jakemac]

I used to get rentals for work. I always tried to go with Ryder when I needed a truck. They seemed to have a better maintained fleet. Penske was a close second, but I had a few problems on occasion and stopped using them. For a long haul, stay away from U-haul. Their fleet is the most beat on and is prone to breakdowns. Something you don't want on a long drive through no-man's land.

The bigger the lift, the taller the tailgate, has been my experience on rentals.

 

[Lu-Max]

Can't use Ryder, from to their site:

"Ryder rentals are round-trip only and must be returned to the original rental location."

Round-trip is not an option for me.

 

[oscar80]

Try abf freight. They drop a trailer off at your house. You pack it and they come pick it up. Was cheaper than rental truck. They will also store the trailer too.

 

[Lu-Max]

I would love to do that oscar80, but my garage backs up to an alley and that would require blocking the narrow alley for some time. My neighbors would kill me. Else I would have to park it at the end of the block and haul everything about 70-80 yards to the end of the alley. That doesn't sound like much fun. I also won't need a full trailer, a 22 footer should work well.

 

[A_Pmech]

I used to travel the country with a 2-bank Harbor Freight roll around stacked to the gills. It worked fine for me and the box is still fine.

I mostly used Budget rental trucks. However, unlike U-haul, they're just a standard dock-height truck. That was never a problem as I had forklifts on both ends. The wooden floor is nice for blocking machines to the floor, if necessary. Everything else I secured on pallets. I could be loaded or unloaded in about 2-4 hours.

 

[oscar80]

They will split the trailer up. You only pay for what you use. Could you park it on street in front?

 

[Lu-Max]

They will split the trailer up. You only pay for what you use. Could you park it on street in front?

I could, but then everything would have to be carried through the house to the front. Only a narrow passageway between the house and fence and the ground there is 2-3" of river rock. I live in the north half of a duplex, red X is my garage. You can see how far it is to the end of the block. The neighborhood that I will be moving to in CA is far less densely packed than this thankfully.

I inventoried and measure everything out in the garage, I might be able to squeeze it into a 16 footer. I'm going to lay it out on paper, but I think it might work. Lighter stuff can go on top of the heavy gear. Plan to buy a bunch of cheap moving blankets and ratchet straps at HF if I go this way.

 

[drivesitfar]

Lu-Max: maybe if you time it right you can have the trailer or container dropped off at your garage at night and have them pick it up in the AM. sort of like parking a moving truck there while you load it. just saying because at some point the neighbors full access alley will be blocked.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

They don't show any lift equipped trucks on their site, so I emailed them and asked earlier today. Also asked what the deck heights were, for some reason that wasn't shown on their site either.

I rented mine from Budget, and it was a one way rental.

 

[Indexmill]

The OP simply asked for advice...

the absolute least expensive and easiest solution is simple: Don't move.

 

[Lu-Max]

the least expensive---LEAST EXPENSIVE!---way to ship stuff is from one Fastenal store to another

I finally got both an email and phone call from Fastenal. They do offer store to store shipping 'transfers' of cargo, but, nto into or out of CA because their trucks are too full according to the representative I spoke with.

Here is the email I got just before she called: "Fastenal does offer Store to Store shipping services in specific lanes. At this time, we are unable to offer transportation services into the State of California."

Bummer for me.

 

[Lu-Max]

The OP simply asked for advice...
the absolute least expensive and easiest solution is simple: Don't move.

Hah! But then I would miss out on a promotion, pay raise, better schedule, & better job. I think I'll move.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Hah! But then I would miss out on a promotion, pay raise, better schedule, & better job. I think I'll move.

But it's California...

 

[wildbill23c]

One thing to do that will help prevent damage to your tool box drawers. When you load them in whatever you decided to use, make sure you turn them around so that the drawers are up against the walls of the truck or container, that way the drawers are less likely to be able to come open. There won't be much difference in unloaded stuff out of the drawers as long as they are secured against the wall to keep them from coming open which would be your largest concern for damage. The only thing about not unloading your tools is the ridiculous weight in trying to load and unload them.

 

[anotheroldguy]

Try abf freight. They drop a trailer off at your house. You pack it and they come pick it up. Was cheaper than rental truck. They will also store the trailer too.

They do offer a great service but all door openings are frieght door high. Not real handy for heavy stuff from ground to deck floor.