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Mower blade sharpening jigs

lardy1

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Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
3,425
Location
Michigan
What makes one better than another? Any recommendations?

I live in a very, very sandy area and my blades get trashed fast. I've been buying new blades every season and running them until they're about to come apart. I was thinking that if I had multiple sets to interchange I could get a better cut all season and possibly even extend the life of the blades a little.

Appreciate any input users may have.
 
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seber

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May 31, 2016
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4,217
Location
Deep East Tx.
I don't have any technical knowledge so take this for what it's worth. I seriously doubt the exact angle of the cutting edge has any affect on anything. Obviously the sharper the angle, the faster it will wear, but is precision of that angle of any value? What does have a major affect on you mower is the balance. An unbalanced blade will take out the spindle bearings in short order. But a simple nail is all you need for that. Just hang the blade through the hole.
 

JeepYJ

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Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
9,187
but is precision of that angle of any value?
Sir, this is GJ. Overspending on fancy tools to accomplish a simple task is celebrated and encouraged.
Nail? Pffft.
 

Steve_P

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Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,224
I don't use a fixture, just "eye". IMO, all you need is a table to clamp the blade to and a 4.5" angle grinder with a flap wheel. Oh, and a blade balancer- at least get one of the cheap stepped conical ones. I've been doing it this way for decades and it works fine. I sharpen at the end of every mowing season and get 10+ years out of a blade. At the first small engine shop I worked at in the 1980s, we had a massive "wet" grinding wheel that was probably 36" diameter X 2" wide; it worked great, but again, no fixture, operator eye.

If you are set on a sharpening tool, Project Farm tested them. The issue with these tools are that a lot of the new mulching blades are stepped, and the entire profile can only be done with something like a flap wheel, free hand.
 

RTM

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Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,380
Location
SF Bay Area
I just use a file by hand when I do it, tho I have a dremel bit and guide, I never had the collet to make it work right til now.

A friend bought the multi angle stones, they sucked.

Doing it early, before it’s trashed, is much easier than waiting til it’s dull.
 

ricleh

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Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
1,447
Location
Sacramento, CA
This sharpener with a good magnetic balancer will give excellent results in a short amount of time.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
Messages
10,263
Location
Far NE Oregon
I'm a sharpening fanatic. I bought a Wicked Edge Pro III for sharpening my kitchen, outdoor and EDC knives.

But I use a bench vise and hand-held angle grinder w/flapwheel to cut the primary bevel on a mower blade (I have to sharpen mine after every full pass over the lawns at work and at home). The flapwheel, held at the proper angle (MKII eyeball gauge) gives me a nicely hollow-ground primary bevel. I use a 10" Mill ******* for the small secondary bevel. I find the double-bevel significantly increases the life of the blades and makes my job easier--if I haven't actually hit a rock, I can generally just touch up the blade with the file.

Like the OP we go through about one set of blades per year. I live and work in an old river bed with river gravel for soil.
 
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PMD1966

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Joined
Dec 26, 2013
Messages
182
Location
Lake Orion, Michigan
I just use a file by hand when I do it, tho I have a dremel bit and guide, I never had the collet to make it work right til now.

A friend bought the multi angle stones, they sucked.

Doing it early, before it’s trashed, is much easier than waiting til it’s dull.
I use a file and a cone shaped balancer that I picked up at a flea market.
 

Firebrick43

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Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,371
Location
West central Indiana
I am teaching the boys to file and grind accurate and consistent angles. I set An angle gauge at the appropriate angle on the edge of the bench beside them and have them check their tool against that gauge every 5 strokes or so. With constant checking it doesn’t take one long to learn to hold consistent angles by hand.

More important place to spend money is on good lifting equipment and a battery impact to make pulling and sharpening the blades happen more often because ease to do those task
 

seber

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Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
4,217
Location
Deep East Tx.
More important place to spend money is on good lifting equipment and a battery impact to make pulling and sharpening the blades happen more often because ease to do those task
Instead of lifting, I just drive the tractor up onto the same ramps I use for changing oil on the car. I did the same for the neighbor's zero turn.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
Messages
14,371
Location
West central Indiana
Instead of lifting, I just drive the tractor up onto the same ramps I use for changing oil on the car. I did the same for the neighbor's zero turn.
Whatever works for you. I am getting old enough that laying on my back with ramps ***** to remove blades and scrape decks.

I personally use a high lift floor Jack and some tall cribbing stands. It allows me to sit instead of lie on a creeper. The make some real nice mower specific stands and jacks now.
 

RTM

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Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,380
Location
SF Bay Area
More important place to spend money is on good lifting equipment and a battery impact to make pulling and sharpening the blades happen more often because ease to do those task
What, grunting the lawnmower up on to the narrow tailgate of the truck bed isn't your idea of fun? Did mine for the first time in a few years ( was on loan to SIL), reminded me that I'm getting old, and that job ***** more each year. But still way better than a R&R on the carb there than on the ground.
 
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