Slednut
Well-known member
Robert, your work is nothing short of amazing.
Anyone who can make metal conform to their will is a master of the art.
But what impresses me most is the "Kramer" picture on your wall, a few posts up.
Duck
I'll second that.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
I'll second that.
Richard D
Well-known member
How much do you love your Mag Brake?
We'll take the Kramer!
It does have some nice features, like bending a radius just by using a rod. There are some things is won't do well that an apron brake will, but I don't have room for both. The Baileigh is here from a contest, basically got it at 1/2 price. Since I'm a tight *******, I don't know that I'd have it if I had to pay full price.
It does have some nice features, like bending a radius just by using a rod. There are some things is won't do well that an apron brake will, but I don't have room for both. The Baileigh is here from a contest, basically got it at 1/2 price. Since I'm a tight *******, I don't know that I'd have it if I had to pay full price.
More work on the lid...
Lid hangs over slightly in the front to serve as our only pull/lift for opening the lid, nice and tidy. It will be held closed using rare earth magnets.
Video version:
Our kick panels for the rear seat also need some support against the inner quarter panel to help hold the arm rest.
Jake bent up a 1 x 1 angle out of 19 gauge and used the Erco to match the contour of the kick panel. In order to not block off the window mechanism access panel, we'll bolt it to that panel.. As we have yet to install all of our interior/carpet/upholstery, we made the support adjustable so we can match the kick panel height at installation.. Video version:
More details on the console, we had hemmed all the edges to help protect the upholstery when it gets wrapped, but the tunnel cutout at the rear still needed an "added" hem.
Then our hem is tacked in place, edges adjusted with a drum sander, and the two edges fusion welded together using the TIG.
....and sanded smooth..
Next, layout and folding the insert for the console. Some parts needed to fill in voids will be added later..
Test fit....
Video:
Lid hangs over slightly in the front to serve as our only pull/lift for opening the lid, nice and tidy. It will be held closed using rare earth magnets.
Video version:
Our kick panels for the rear seat also need some support against the inner quarter panel to help hold the arm rest.
Jake bent up a 1 x 1 angle out of 19 gauge and used the Erco to match the contour of the kick panel. In order to not block off the window mechanism access panel, we'll bolt it to that panel.. As we have yet to install all of our interior/carpet/upholstery, we made the support adjustable so we can match the kick panel height at installation.. Video version:
More details on the console, we had hemmed all the edges to help protect the upholstery when it gets wrapped, but the tunnel cutout at the rear still needed an "added" hem.
Then our hem is tacked in place, edges adjusted with a drum sander, and the two edges fusion welded together using the TIG.
....and sanded smooth..
Next, layout and folding the insert for the console. Some parts needed to fill in voids will be added later..
Test fit....
Video:
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I know I saw a thread somewhere but can't seem to find it.
What mig welder were you recommending for a shop, doing sheet metal as well as pretty thick steel. Considering a Hobart Ironman 230. Do you have an opinion on this Robert?
Thanks for any comments!
Larry
What mig welder were you recommending for a shop, doing sheet metal as well as pretty thick steel. Considering a Hobart Ironman 230. Do you have an opinion on this Robert?
Thanks for any comments!
Larry
I haven't used one to speak from a position of authority, but it looks like a basic machine that should have plenty of balls to do what you'll need. I have a Miller 211, which has an automatic feature to set heat and wire feed, and at times doesn't seem the manual adjustment controls much. Perhaps all the electronic super whiz bang buzzers and bells aren't always a good thing. I think my old L-tec produced nicer, flatter welds once I got used to it, for less cleanup.. If you're good with trimming and fitup on your sheet metal panels, perhaps a TIG machine would be better for you, and less cleanup..
My local welding supply lets me take a machine home if I'd like to "test drive" before purchase, not sure about your local stores. Your other option if welding is fairly new to you, is to find a good used machine to eliminate some of the cost premium with new equipment. I got a used Miller 211 at less than 1/2 the cost of my new one and it performed better. I had picked it up for Kyle, so I still have my temperamental one. Where are you located, perhaps a GJ member close by would have a welder you could try out..
My local welding supply lets me take a machine home if I'd like to "test drive" before purchase, not sure about your local stores. Your other option if welding is fairly new to you, is to find a good used machine to eliminate some of the cost premium with new equipment. I got a used Miller 211 at less than 1/2 the cost of my new one and it performed better. I had picked it up for Kyle, so I still have my temperamental one. Where are you located, perhaps a GJ member close by would have a welder you could try out..
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stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Robert, I remember you did a little right up on making some dies for the pullmax. I can’t seem to find it . I just picked up a shop dog and would like to make some tooling.
Thanks
Thanks
Thank you for the reply Robert.
I've been welding for a while but what I used was at one of my jobs and that was a Syncwave 300 I think. Was a fine machine and welded aluminum very well.
What I want to buy for my personal use though so I can't afford a lot but up to $2500.00 new is not out of the question, well until my wife gets wind of that, lol!
My car project is a 55 chevy with a few spots that will need some serious attention, i.e. that trunk area that gets filled with dirt and moisture and rots it from the inside out, all the bottoms of the doors, a hood that has a crack in it, the fire wall that we bashed in to fit a 409, and a host of other things to do for it. Good thing is it's been in storage for the last several years and really is in great shape.
The other things I need to do is weld some thick steel at times so a fairly high amperage MIG welder would be great. I don't know if I afford a nice sized TIG machine otherwise I would go that route.
I don't think the Praxair we have here would let me borrow anything without the entire price as a down payment. LOL!
I asked a welder where I work about the Hobart 230 and he said it was not a good machine. He uses a Miller 252 for most of his larger projects but stick welds a good percentage of the BIG projects. He's an exceptional welder but most likely biased as well.
I live in Ridgecrest, CA and not sure if anyone here is on this board. Maybe one guy and I've used his Miller, but can't remember the model number off hand. Welded fine but Miller is very proud of their stuff!
Again I appreciate your candor and will keep doing some research till I hit the one I'm looking for.
Cheers
Larry
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stinkity stoink
Well-known member
I found it Robert. It was on allmetalshaping. Thanks!
wow, this is impressive. I clicked through a bunch of pages, I'll have to do more reading.
dressing welds, to be 'invisible, is something I just can't quite get the hang of. After seeing this thread I tried using the 3" cutoff wheel to knock the weld down. I like this method, except for the spots where I went too deep..
Do you hold the cutoff wheel perpendicular to the surface?
Do you keep the wheel moving back and forth? [in this case I am refering to a weld longer than a single tack, I deal with thicker material ~14ga and can get away with running a short 1/2" bead or so..maybe that's a bad idea?]
dressing welds, to be 'invisible, is something I just can't quite get the hang of. After seeing this thread I tried using the 3" cutoff wheel to knock the weld down. I like this method, except for the spots where I went too deep..
Do you hold the cutoff wheel perpendicular to the surface?
Do you keep the wheel moving back and forth? [in this case I am refering to a weld longer than a single tack, I deal with thicker material ~14ga and can get away with running a short 1/2" bead or so..maybe that's a bad idea?]
Video tutorial...
Typically your start and stop points in welding introduce the majority of the deformity, but with sheet metal (18-19) single dots better allow a full penetration weld while helping to prevent blow outs. If you can deal with longer weld passes with the thicker metal, have at it. If you can convert your process to TIG welding, Fusion tacks and longer weld passes allow better control over heat distortion, along with easier planishing and cleanup afterward..
Typically your start and stop points in welding introduce the majority of the deformity, but with sheet metal (18-19) single dots better allow a full penetration weld while helping to prevent blow outs. If you can deal with longer weld passes with the thicker metal, have at it. If you can convert your process to TIG welding, Fusion tacks and longer weld passes allow better control over heat distortion, along with easier planishing and cleanup afterward..
Attachments
I hadn't found that video yet. Thanks for the info. I'll keep reading and practicing.
No TIG for me, MM 211
8man
Well-known member
Robert, thanks for the tip on mig wire. I couldn't find the "6", and only found 3 - 11 lb rolls of the ESAB easy grind in Texas, and they are sending me a roll now. I will be trying the new wire on some scraps this weekend, and with any luck on the truck too.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
jackson1701
Well-known member
So Robert, I have been following for a long time, love the thread and all the teachings. Just wanted to point out, Don Long finally has color on his vette, I think it's about time we get to see some color on the wagon.....
Steve
Steve
jbmatth
Well-known member
I have a question for you on the kick panel, what are the tiny holes on the lines at the ends of the bend radius?
Thank you,
JB
Thank you,
JB
To help lay out two identical parts (more identical?), we used a through hole at key locations/intersections on the bend lines to be able to use cleco's to hold the pattern together while transferring the pattern (we used this also on console sides). Then used a punch to make marks along the first line drawn on the top piece to transpose same line through and to the second piece. Note all the punch marks on the bend lines in kick panel pictures above. Foam underlay beneath the upholstery will hide those well..
BMW Rider
Well-known member
It seem like a shame to cover all that beautiful metal work with upholstery.
jackson1701
Well-known member
WHAT! Black primer isn't a color?
Waiting on the lace to come in, yeah, that's it..
I'm a fan of the satin black color too!
jbmatth
Well-known member
Thank you for the explanation, and it makes sense now. As always great looking work and I look forward to more.
JB
JB
JABgj
Well-known member
Robert, I am slowly working on my GT hood requiring a lot of sanding that is going to take a long time and am wondering what is a good coating (primer, paint etc.) to use to keep the whole thing from flashing before I finish and get to paint. Thanks.
I would recommend a good epoxy primer, SPI or similar. Anything you get out of a spray bomb typically does not seal out the moisture, so you should strip it bare before painting if that's what was used. Epoxy does about the best job of any primer in sealing out the elements, so it's ready when you are. Mix what you need, brush it on, roll it on, spray it on. You'll be blocking it out later, so use the method most convenient..
racer-john
Well-known member
Robert, I don't always respond to your projects, BUT I read and enjoy everyone and learn lots. 
txvwnut
Well-known member
I could never get plywood, plastic, etc to weld worth a darn, so I'm using what I can.
Not to mention all the smoke in the shop from trying.
Not to mention all the smoke in the shop from trying.
I could never get plywood, plastic, etc to weld worth a darn, so I'm using what I can.
Gotcha
8man
Well-known member
I got the ESAB easy grind and started on the cab of the 48. It certainly works better than the "6" I have been using. It hasn't made me a good welder yet, but at least it makes me better at grinding. Thanks Robert!
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Hey Robert, just a question about rust prevention.What do you think about using a zinc paint as a first layer, followed by epoxy primer then undercoating. A product called ZRC is used by ocean going steel boats around these parts...seems like it would prevent corrosion very well.http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products/zrc-cold-galvanizing-compound 95% metallic zinc and can be top coated with epoxy.
Attachments
My concern would be stability in presence of other automotive paint components. How would it react if exposed to reducers, hardeners, etc found in other paints if you did happen to have sand throughs or thin areas of epoxy. IMO a single stage component will not be as stable as two part component. Personally I don't think you can get much better than properly abraded and prepped rust free sheet metal followed by epoxy primer for your substrate.
More progress on the wagon, making our insert for the console whole...
Clamped up for tacking with the TIG welder...
Video of fusion tacks:
Adding in the corner for the rear kick panel...
.....getting closer all the time..
What's your setup for tiging sheet metal, full details please!?!? Your work kicks ***!
Finishing up our floor weldments so we can visit the local Line-x for "undercoating" this coming week.. Our bucket seats have one bolt that went through the floor, and we wanted to eliminate the need for two people to install/remove the hardware.. We came up with a plate fitted to the floor pan channel that we welded a hex nut onto. This plate will allow us to plug weld to the floor...
The rear quarter also has some bolting pads where the side ears to the rear bumper is bolted through. We needed to make stiffener plates to strengthen this area.
We made use of some tubing in the scrap pile to make a punch and anvil... Everything's a tool...
Alignment marks in the centers of the tubes..
Ready for Line-x
The rear quarter also has some bolting pads where the side ears to the rear bumper is bolted through. We needed to make stiffener plates to strengthen this area.
We made use of some tubing in the scrap pile to make a punch and anvil... Everything's a tool...
Alignment marks in the centers of the tubes..
Ready for Line-x
jbmatth
Well-known member
With it going off to undercoating does that mean you are on the home stretch for painting the car in the very near future?
JB
JB
RADcustom
Well-known member
Great to hear some progress is happening but, the pics are not showing for me.