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MP&C Shop Projects

OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
We got the other side trim done for the tailgate and I had been asked to show the hammer form in more detail, so here's another go.. We actually started by pulling a paper pattern of the profile, some autobody masking paper is taped to hang over the edge, and the tracing done to show where to trim. Although we didn't have the plastic in the way at the time, here the pattern is after trimming.

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This is the pattern we use for the overall of the stainless, so that once the flange has been folded we will have a border of paint surrounding the trim (set in somewhat). Once the 19 gauge stainless has been trimmed to match our pattern, we use the tipping die in the Lennox to thin the "bend line", this gives the metal a suggestion of where it needs to bend so we should have a somewhat sharper crease given how the MDF tends to compress under a hammer blow. Where I would normally use one of our round backstops on the lower die, this shows to leave us without contact with the backstop at the initial entry and final exit from the machine, as the backstop is centered on the die. To correct that, we opted for 3/4 flat stock that gives us contact the entire width of the die set.

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The backstop distance sets the height of the side flange of the trim, and here is the stainless after running through the tipping die for thinning the bend line.

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Then the stainless is clamped between our MDF hammer form, note the outer portion of the hammer form matches the thinned bend line exactly.

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The Sandwich is held together with screws and then clamped in the vise for the hammering operation...




Once complete the bottom half of the hammer form becomes a stable base for pre-polishing, and some shorter screws are used to keep thing in unison. We use our typical polishing sequence of 400, 800, 1500, and then polishing on the buffer using green compound for a darker hue.




After the initial polish, the outer flange is covered with masking tape (to protect from scratching at this next step) and calipers are used to set the width and mark the cut line, like shown here..

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The bulk is trimmed away using our Milwaukee M18 shears, and final done using Wurth snips. The edge is fine tuned with our Dynabrade belt file, and then the holes are located and dimple countersunk. Then another polish job, and all the parts are located in prep for drilling the screw holes into the tailgate. Really happy with the nice parallel setback from the edge with these new trim pieces to match my patch panels.

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Next we'll get all the holes drilled and our upholstery added in the center...
 
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WoodsTruck

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Jan 12, 2013
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1,019
Since this is MP&C's metal working seminar, question for your tipping die step.
Does the SS "work harden" along the affected area when using the tipping die to roll in a bend line?
If so, does this change the bending behavior at the point of bend or is this not significant?
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
Got some pics from JB at the upholstery shop yesterday. The Radio Flyer wagon is now complete. He was initially going to do tan upholstery, but when he laid the red against the wagon he said the wild color won out. Better match to the build. So this little wagon was painted in Leonardtown MD, lettered and striped in Hummelstown PA, and now upholstered in Lexington SC. It really gets around..


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xtremek

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Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
11,603
Location
St. Johns, Mi
Nice job on the wagon.

So I need the advice of a master. I just bought a Buell that came with the factory optional wheels. Buell wheel.jpg

I never liked the area in between the two halves, it just looks unfinished. Right now it's just aluminum. I'd like to paint it satin black. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, but I think brush strokes would be very noticeable. Any suggestions?
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
Nice job on the wagon.

So I need the advice of a master. I just bought a Buell that came with the factory optional wheels. Buell wheel.jpg

I never liked the area in between the two halves, it just looks unfinished. Right now it's just aluminum. I'd like to paint it satin black. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, but I think brush strokes would be very noticeable. Any suggestions?

I'm interested to hear what Robert would suggest but I have done a few various projects where I've painted either polished aluminum or chrome pieces on the projects using the following process:

* Polish the wheel to the desired finish in those areas not to be painted, not necessary where chromed.
* Mask the polished area off leaving the area to be painted exposed.
* Either sand or bead blast the area wished to be painted.
* Epoxy Prime the area to be painted.
* Mix single stage urethane paint using flattening agent to achieve the desired sheen or matte finish.
* Using a small detail gun spray the area to be painted then unmask.

I used to do this a lot on snowmobiles and sand quads/sand rails to add a degree of detail and compliment the paint color. They were very durable and held up exceptionally well, but I would still like to hear how Robert would address the same component.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
I just bought a Buell that came with the factory optional wheels.

I never liked the area in between the two halves, it just looks unfinished. Right now it's just aluminum. I'd like to paint it satin black. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, but I think brush strokes would be very noticeable. Any suggestions?


The powder coater I use has various vacuums attachments that he can use to remove powder rather precisely. Meaning spray the void with powder and remove anything on the outside / edge of the holes. Then heat. He can get powder into such crevasses much better/easier than I can with a paint gun.

Side note, I had the factory solid wheel on the back of my Softail. It was always a pain to clean the road film. Had it chrome plated and it was then a breeze to clean.

If you plan on an "in-house" repair, then follow Mike's suggestion above..
 
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OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
It's more about getting it in the middle portion, between the two halves. I was thinking just pouring paint in?

It’s going to be a mess with paint no matter how it’s applied, as well as the prep challenge. For small parts here lately its cheaper, easier, and quicker for me to prep for powder coating and drop it off. He’s about five minutes away. I guess that falls under having to “know a guy”.
 

Bowtie4life

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Apr 17, 2020
Messages
129
Location
Washington DC
New shop truck, working on the replacement for my 2014 F250.. This one is all but rust free, especially for east coast standards. 352 4 speed.


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Should be leaving in a couple days to pick it up and drive it home..
It looks like a really nice truck. It also looks like it has been lowered too. What year is it?
 
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phred

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Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
525
Location
NC
I have a 66 I’m rebuilding right now and had a 65 352 4 speed truck. It would pull what ever you hooked to it. 10 miles per gallon loaded or empty. Not fast but rock solid dependable. Nice score. Looking forward to your experiences.
 
OP
M

MP&C

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Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
4,396
Location
Leonardtown, MD
Now to cover our road trip in a bit more detail. July 3rd, I flew out of BWI about 8am with a layover in Denver. Then a connection up to Redmond Oregon.


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The truck had some dry rot on the old tires, so rather than tempt fate, I sprung for some new tires and the two fellas I dealt with, Chuck and Robert, went above and beyond to help get the truck ready.. while one was picking me up from the airport, the other was picking up the wheels/new tires from the local Discount Tire.


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Upon arrival I find about the most solid, original 1966 I have ever seen. We looked over a few things and installed the wheels/new tires on the truck. My departure was the first test drive. Got to have faith in the old 66..




I drove south of Terrebonne to Redmond, stopped at the local Walmart for some essentials. A cooler, drinks, ice, a fire extinguisher, and a suction cup phone mount for map navigation.

Heading east out of Oregon towards Idaho. 4-65 AC at its finest.


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I wanted to drive past Boise the first day to get an early start around SLC the next day. So I drove halfway between Boise and the Utah border, and stopped at a local rest stop. Set the alarm for about 4 in the morning. Just about had the rest area to myself.


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Utah here we come...


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I had reached out to Mike to stop by his place for a shop tour, but alas, he had to work the 4th, and with me facing 40+ hours of driving, it wasn't a sit and wait kind of day. I'll have to make time to visit the next time through..

Wyoming. A lot of wide open, with mountains of all shapes and sizes. They even have some that look like someone's been playing Jenga on a grand scale, flat rocks with rounded edges stacked one on the other. The pyramids have nothing on these Jenga mountains of Wyoming. They have plenty of exits off I-80, but most go nowhere. There are exits to put on tire chains, exits to take off tire chains, exits for trucks to park and sleep, and for the messy truck drivers, exits to park and sleep WITH dumpsters to clean out your trucks. Then the exits that go nowhere, but open up to the gravel wide open.


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Then there's the entertainment. It's a stock truck.... So I had to sing to myself.. For 3-1/2 days... It was painful to listen to. I may now be a well practiced singer, but not one anybody would care to listen to..


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One thing Chuck was not able to get fixed, the gas gauge. He had installed a new sending unit to no avail. Given the 18 gallon tank and an estimated 12 mpg, I should have a safe range of about 200 miles per tank without fear of running out. Just in case, Robert had fixed me up with a couple 5 gallon gas cans so I would have a reserve.


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So at every fill-up, I would observe the mileage, bump it by 200, and note it for when I needed fuel.


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Knock on wood, this process served well, and I wasn't forced to use the back-up supply of fuel the entire trip. I checked the mileage the second tank and was getting about 12.5 per gallon. About what I expected with a 352 with 3.50 gears and a granny gear 4 speed.


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I was chastised by my wife and daughter with the accommodations I was using, so Thursday evening I made it into Nebraska and found a motel for a shower and more comfy bed (over a 1966 front seat)
 
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