aggierailroad
Well-known member
Brilliant! Who needs a contour gauge? 
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Actually I have two different sizes of contour gauges but tend to use them only for more complex shapes. For a simple arc as shown, using a contour gauge and the process of tracing afterwards, the compass is quicker and just as effective. Plus, most all of us (or our kids) have a cheap compass from grade school. No need to go out and buy special tools, instant contour gauge!
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What size / how much are you looking for? I have 19, 18, 16, 14 ga CRS. Most are cut into 24 x 48 size so it will fit in most vehicles If you are looking for full sheet stuff, the 19 ga I got from Ryerson in Delaware, but you need a Business account. Most of the rest was from local machine shops.
If you are looking for full sheet stuff, the 19 ga I got from Ryerson in Delaware, but you need a Business account. Most of the rest was from local machine shops.Picked up another piece for the planishing hammer build... One piece at a time..
I guess it pays to have a drummer in the family
Made a variation of the donut dolly. Didn't rightly want to modify the good one.. so this was made to bump the low spots up..
Trying to finalize the rear end of this car.. The tailgate skin didn't align too well to the upper lift gate, the gap was way out of whack. I guess this is what I get for installing the skin based on the old tailgate.
Note to self, don't fold door skins unless adjacent panel is there to set gaps..
Time to break out the door skin removal tool....
Flange unfolded....
Spoon was slid between the skin and inner panel and body hammer used to flatten out the crease...
Right side flange is now a bit short, so added a strip of metal..
Flange re-folded, just needs some fine tuning and finishing the corners..
Much better...
I guess it pays to have a drummer in the family
Made a variation of the donut dolly. Didn't rightly want to modify the good one.. so this was made to bump the low spots up..
Trying to finalize the rear end of this car.. The tailgate skin didn't align too well to the upper lift gate, the gap was way out of whack. I guess this is what I get for installing the skin based on the old tailgate.
Note to self, don't fold door skins unless adjacent panel is there to set gaps..
Time to break out the door skin removal tool....
Flange unfolded....
Spoon was slid between the skin and inner panel and body hammer used to flatten out the crease...
Right side flange is now a bit short, so added a strip of metal..
Flange re-folded, just needs some fine tuning and finishing the corners..
Much better...
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Nice work Robert.
with the donut dolly did you have that on the outside of the vehicle and bumping with the hammer from the inside?
with the donut dolly did you have that on the outside of the vehicle and bumping with the hammer from the inside?
1971gsfan
Well-known member
Lookin good as usual
I had a request to show the tools used to re-fold the flanges. Here's the flange, it does have a couple of hammer marks to work out...
A mark was used on the front to indicate the new fold line. This press brake die was placed against the back side, and the flange tapped over. A flush tap against the face every now and then keeps the folded edge crisp..
That took the flange over about 90 degrees, then this modified gooseneck die was used to take it over to about 135 degrees...
At this point the gate was closed to verify gaps. A door skin hammer on the inside and a dolly against the outside skin was used to complete the fold..
A mark was used on the front to indicate the new fold line. This press brake die was placed against the back side, and the flange tapped over. A flush tap against the face every now and then keeps the folded edge crisp..
That took the flange over about 90 degrees, then this modified gooseneck die was used to take it over to about 135 degrees...
At this point the gate was closed to verify gaps. A door skin hammer on the inside and a dolly against the outside skin was used to complete the fold..
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aggierailroad
Well-known member
I love the big hunks o' iron that you have accumulated to use for dies. It takes a village (of tools) sometimes!
Worked tonight on building new mounting brackets for the 55's battery tray..
This bracket supports the battery tray, bolts to the core support..
This bracket spot welds to the bottom of the tray and bolts to the inner fender.
This bracket goes on the wheel side of the inner fender well as a backer to bolt through.
The tabs spot weld to the ends of the tray for the battery hold downs..
Now just need to finish drilling holes and weld the parts to the "new" tray..
This bracket supports the battery tray, bolts to the core support..
This bracket spot welds to the bottom of the tray and bolts to the inner fender.
This bracket goes on the wheel side of the inner fender well as a backer to bolt through.
The tabs spot weld to the ends of the tray for the battery hold downs..
Now just need to finish drilling holes and weld the parts to the "new" tray..
BigMike782
Well-known member
Robert, nice work...as always!
I told 3 guys in two days that are doing sheetmetal work, about this site and specifically this thread.....I hope they found it
I told 3 guys in two days that are doing sheetmetal work, about this site and specifically this thread.....I hope they found it
gipraw
Well-known member
Great work as always, Robert. I love the door skin removal tool. I am stealing that idea.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Doug, don't forget the widened groove at the bottom so the pliers don't slip. Also, I added another groove behind that one for this removal (see second picture), as the inner gate got in the way. The second groove let the pliers sit out just a bit from the inner structure as it was used. Once you get it started, if there is no room to remove and reposition, simply slide the pliers sideways for another bite, and continue on..
Don, glad you finally had enough arm twisting to sign up! Welcome to the site!
Doug, don't forget the widened groove at the bottom so the pliers don't slip. Also, I added another groove behind that one for this removal (see second picture), as the inner gate got in the way. The second groove let the pliers sit out just a bit from the inner structure as it was used. Once you get it started, if there is no room to remove and reposition, simply slide the pliers sideways for another bite, and continue on..
Don, glad you finally had enough arm twisting to sign up!
Welcome to the site!gipraw
Well-known member
I saw the first groove .. I didn't notice the second one. That makes sense. Thanks for pointing it out.
Hey Robert, I have a welding question for ya.
When welding in a patch, that you can't get to from the back side what do you do as far as planishing the dots?
I am repairing the roof support so it will be a non visible repair. The roof skin or quarter panel will cover it from the outside, and the headliner will cover it from the inside.
Thank you
When welding in a patch, that you can't get to from the back side what do you do as far as planishing the dots?
I am repairing the roof support so it will be a non visible repair. The roof skin or quarter panel will cover it from the outside, and the headliner will cover it from the inside.
Thank you
For something like a roof support that is totally covered from both sides, I probably wouldn't worry about it.
If the repair were to an outer skin that is blocked by a roof support or inner structure, I'd remove the support, or cut an access hole to allow access with your dolly for planishing, then weld the removed part back in place afterward.
In either, a thin sheet of copper temporarily slipped between should keep you from welding the two parts (roof support to the outer skin) together.
If the repair were to an outer skin that is blocked by a roof support or inner structure, I'd remove the support, or cut an access hole to allow access with your dolly for planishing, then weld the removed part back in place afterward.
In either, a thin sheet of copper temporarily slipped between should keep you from welding the two parts (roof support to the outer skin) together.
With my waiting list, I was just trying to get you something quicker! 
Had a bit of time in the shop this evening, so I worked some more on the rear of the wagon... I had left the outer part of the lower repair patch's seam of the lift gate (going through the bead detail) un-welded until the flanges all got folded, so tonight I got one side of that finished up...
Then the welds were cleaned up and some more tweaking of the tailgate gaps....
Much better...
Had a bit of time in the shop this evening, so I worked some more on the rear of the wagon... I had left the outer part of the lower repair patch's seam of the lift gate (going through the bead detail) un-welded until the flanges all got folded, so tonight I got one side of that finished up...
Then the welds were cleaned up and some more tweaking of the tailgate gaps....
Much better...
Okie Pete
Well-known member
Amazing work
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Hey Robert, looking great.Was that one of the last details? I think you've just about been all over that car so far. I bet it's going to feel wonderful to be putting paint all over it and regain shop space.
Claude, we're getting to light at the end of the tunnel. I need to do the same lift gate fitment to the drivers side, metal finish some quarter panel weld seams, check all the panel fitment, and then pull the body once more and put it back on the rotisserie. A little more welding on the frame before getting that powder coated...
joeswamp
Well-known member
Those gaps look really good -- can you give a quick description of how you adjusted them? Was this just a matter of hinge adjustment or was there grinding/hammering involved?
Beautiful work BTW, you're making a lot of us wish we had your skill set.
Beautiful work BTW, you're making a lot of us wish we had your skill set.
Thanks for the comments Joe, but I don't know that it's more patience than skill The hinges had already been adjusted to where they were going, so this was all hammer and welding work.
The lift gate in original form did not fit well, and the belt line detail between it and the body were mis-aligned.
During the fixing of the lower part of the lift gate, the mis-alignment of the beltline was addressed.....
Since the tail gate skin had already been folded prior to that point, it compounded the gap issues, making it necessary to unfold and re-hem the tail gates upper fold...
That made up for most of it, I had to add some metal in the corners on the back side, and added some weld in the corner areas to build up those edges, to get to this final stage..
The hinges had already been adjusted to where they were going, so this was all hammer and welding work.The lift gate in original form did not fit well, and the belt line detail between it and the body were mis-aligned.
During the fixing of the lower part of the lift gate, the mis-alignment of the beltline was addressed.....
The patch piece was marked off on both ends to bring the lower bead detail up into the car for better alignment...
Here's the driver's side after cutting and welding, shows a much better alignment. Good weld penetration on the inside, the seam at the end will be finished after folding onto the lift gate..
Since the tail gate skin had already been folded prior to that point, it compounded the gap issues, making it necessary to unfold and re-hem the tail gates upper fold...
Time to break out the door skin removal tool....
Flange unfolded....
Spoon was slid between the skin and inner panel and body hammer used to flatten out the crease...
Right side flange is now a bit short, so added a strip of metal..
Flange re-folded, just needs some fine tuning and finishing the corners..
That made up for most of it, I had to add some metal in the corners on the back side, and added some weld in the corner areas to build up those edges, to get to this final stage..
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DieselDent
Well-known member
Looking good. Did you make it out to the Ltown show on sunday? Had the car out there all day and only ended up with a sunburn but it was a good time.
DieselDent
Well-known member
It was a really good turn out we got there around 7:30 and the line was out to the Burchmart to get in. I have a '69 chevelle convertible that I restored about 5 years ago, mostly cruise in it but I try and get to this show every year.
View media item 36437This is from a few years ago.
View media item 33311
View media item 36437This is from a few years ago.
View media item 33311
8man
Well-known member
Very Nice Car!
Spent yesterday and today at Gatormeet for a metal shaping workshop.
The first day started with a tuck shrinking demo, and showing the basics of the process and how the metal reacts. Today, we also had the tuck shrinking fixture to use.
Camaro quarter panels are being fitted with gills for installation on a Firebird. This included fit up, trimming, Tig welding, and planishing..
The International farm truck had returned, so we were able to see the finished fenders from last year..
The rear fenders need reproducing as well, so the wire edging this year used bead roller dies..
Today we also discussed using hammer forms, and various pattern methods to determine shape..
Our new attendee this year learning some shaping...
Some rear corners fabricated for a truck bed..
Some practice at fusion welding using the Tig, here's the front showing some slight undercutting..
The rear side shows some good weld penetration in some areas and needs more practice in others..
Just to show that slight undercutting on fusion welding was not an issue in the joint's strength, the seam was clamped in the apron brake and bent to 135 degrees, with no detriment to the weld..
This afternoon we spent some time discussing tips and tricks to help productivity and also to help open up to new methods and ideas. Here is a rotisserie style mount for a door, helping to locate it for ease of welding or other panel repairs....
Another project that Gator just picked up was this Camaro. The previous owner's substandard welding attempts severely warped and damaged many of the panels where most of the exterior panels will need replacing..
Looks like a project for the next Gatormeet! All in all, an awesome weekend for sharing and learning methods and ideas..
The first day started with a tuck shrinking demo, and showing the basics of the process and how the metal reacts. Today, we also had the tuck shrinking fixture to use.
Camaro quarter panels are being fitted with gills for installation on a Firebird. This included fit up, trimming, Tig welding, and planishing..
The International farm truck had returned, so we were able to see the finished fenders from last year..
The rear fenders need reproducing as well, so the wire edging this year used bead roller dies..
Today we also discussed using hammer forms, and various pattern methods to determine shape..
Our new attendee this year learning some shaping...
Some rear corners fabricated for a truck bed..
Some practice at fusion welding using the Tig, here's the front showing some slight undercutting..
The rear side shows some good weld penetration in some areas and needs more practice in others..
Just to show that slight undercutting on fusion welding was not an issue in the joint's strength, the seam was clamped in the apron brake and bent to 135 degrees, with no detriment to the weld..
This afternoon we spent some time discussing tips and tricks to help productivity and also to help open up to new methods and ideas. Here is a rotisserie style mount for a door, helping to locate it for ease of welding or other panel repairs....
Another project that Gator just picked up was this Camaro. The previous owner's substandard welding attempts severely warped and damaged many of the panels where most of the exterior panels will need replacing..
Looks like a project for the next Gatormeet! All in all, an awesome weekend for sharing and learning methods and ideas..
427FAB
Well-known member
I always enjoy your posts ,I wish there was something closer down here as far as metal shaping is concerned.