stinkity stoink
Well-known member
I vote round
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
outtaplace
Active member
Two or three rounds!!
RickP
Well-known member
I like the 3 round vents - it really fits in with the style of the car.
MScott
Well-known member
OK. Everyone seems to be voting for the round ones but I think rectangular vents might be more appropriate. Remember that this area originally housed a rectangular radio which looked right in the space. I do think that a softer rectangle that looks more metallic and has rounder corners (such as the Summit vent shown back in post #1230) might fit better and look less like an 80's Caprice. JMHO
Love the job you are doing on the wagon. I learn something every time I tune in.
Love the job you are doing on the wagon. I learn something every time I tune in.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Those are pretty big rectangles. What about smaller ones, like those used in '69-77 Corvettes? You could probably fit three in the center and another two in the sides.Next, we got our AC vent samples in.. Here is the test fit with tape... Only have two of the round ones to show, but if we go with these there will be three in a row here in the center of the dash.
Any thoughts on the vents now with them mocked up?
New reproduction vents are available for about $17 each (maybe less on eBay). http://www.parts123.com/corvettecentral/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0000050g&ukey=11368
shortykorte
Well-known member
Please use round or oval vents. Think round headlights, round vents. Rectangular headlights, rectangular vents. The thing missing from the 80's look plastic rectangular vents is chrome. I bet some of the large GM boats from late 50's early 60's have some rectangular vents that would work.
Thanks for sharing and asking our opinions.
Thanks for sharing and asking our opinions.
aggierailroad
Well-known member
My vote is round.
nonhog
Well-known member
I'm surprised you haven't custom made a set yet? 
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
I don't remember - does this car still have a speaker grille on top of the dash, or did it get closed in when you blocked off the holes for the radio? Maybe the central a/c ducts could blow up and out through the speaker grille.
Stuart, no speaker grille on this one..
Went to a metal shaping workshop this past weekend, and just in case we needed a project to tackle, I took along one of the round vents so I could make some "buckets" in case we were going to mount them in the lower outside corners of the dash. To prevent scratching, I covered the chrome with painters tape. As it turned out, we had plenty of other projects going on, and I never got to the vents. Removing the tape when we got home resulted in this:
So be forewarned, don't use tape to protect the chrome on the plastic vents from Vintage Air.
Also made a Xerox copy of the vents to be able to lay them out and test a pattern before cutting any holes.
Thanks to all for the input on vent selection. Here is the 5 round pattern that the owner has decided on...
Went to a metal shaping workshop this past weekend, and just in case we needed a project to tackle, I took along one of the round vents so I could make some "buckets" in case we were going to mount them in the lower outside corners of the dash. To prevent scratching, I covered the chrome with painters tape. As it turned out, we had plenty of other projects going on, and I never got to the vents. Removing the tape when we got home resulted in this:
So be forewarned, don't use tape to protect the chrome on the plastic vents from Vintage Air.
Also made a Xerox copy of the vents to be able to lay them out and test a pattern before cutting any holes.
Thanks to all for the input on vent selection. Here is the 5 round pattern that the owner has decided on...
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stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Robert, it was great meeting you at Gator's. I am guessing my project is the one that prevented you from doing you're project. Sorry about that. Maybe next year I can help you with a project.
I just want to say thanks again for the guidance and pretty much doing most of the work. I really learned a lot in the 2 days I was there. I am looking forward to next year.
Thanks
Dave
I just want to say thanks again for the guidance and pretty much doing most of the work. I really learned a lot in the 2 days I was there. I am looking forward to next year.
Thanks
Dave
Dave, no worries, we weren't going to actually use the buckets as the vents are going in the flat area, I was more bringing it to show a demo on how to make them. I did similar ones earlier in this thread on the Studebaker dash. Take a look at it, this is real similar to what I was talking about for the internal structure for your headlight mounting. Of course, your flange will be larger so will require more shrinking effort...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2950709&highlight=studebaker#post2950709
See posts 69, 70, 73, 74, 77, and 87.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2950709&highlight=studebaker#post2950709
See posts 69, 70, 73, 74, 77, and 87.
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Well I just killed an hour on the old thread, and still have quite a few pages to go through again.
Robert......I was just thinking, you don't have a mill do you? I can't remember, but if not, don't overlook using your lathe for certain things. One that comes to mind is the phenolic block you made for the hood peak of the '55. Clamp a phenolic block to the compound of the lathe and chuck up a cutter in your headstock. You can also make your own cutters to use in the headstock. If interested, I can explain how to do it, but you need a quick change tool post.
Robert......I was just thinking, you don't have a mill do you? I can't remember, but if not, don't overlook using your lathe for certain things. One that comes to mind is the phenolic block you made for the hood peak of the '55. Clamp a phenolic block to the compound of the lathe and chuck up a cutter in your headstock. You can also make your own cutters to use in the headstock. If interested, I can explain how to do it, but you need a quick change tool post.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Yes, that there little X was a Phillips bit.....
How does one slip off a phillips unless someone was using a tool it wasn't designed for ?
BTW.......OUCH!!!!!!!RivennHewn
Well-known member
Well, the past couple of shop nights we've had some detours and some back up and punts. Where to start..
Started with a test fit of the power antenna the owner had bought, installed somewhat easily and even clears the door hinge when closed by 1/4". But this trim ring on top is just......obnoxious. Anyone use a power antenna that is a bit easier to hide?
Next, lets get the VA unit under the dash to see how much room we have to work with on a radio..
Doh! We had planned on a single DIN chassis, so it appears the radio will need to be 4" deep, or go back into the dash, or go in a console. She did buy a console with the bucket seats, they all came out of a late model Monte Carlo. Let's give that a go.
Not much room for installing a single DIN chassis, but even worse the console tapers in at the bottom where the trans tunnel is spreading outward. So it looks like its teeter tottering. Doesn't match the car at all. So this looks like something else to add to the list, perhaps a custom made console is in order..
Since we're not doing too well inside the car, let's shift gears and move to the outside. We had a couple more parts to add to the pile awaiting powder coat. The side baffles of the core support had some hole alignment issues, must be off a 57 or something.... so we'll fill those in and get them re-drilled correctly. Next, we need mounting brackets for the radiator. These were made from some 16 gauge cold rolled steel..
We do now have much better clearance around the radiator petcock with the new improved version of the lower baffle..
Kyle had learned some Tig welding this past weekend at GatorMeet, from Gator's boy Dakota. Dakota is quite accomplished for his youth, having won the state competition for welding. Here Kyle runs a couple of practice samples to get the machine dialed in... Seems he forgot his long sleeve welding shirt this evening.
I had shown him how to tack without using filler, and gave him more aspiration by showing him a no-filler fusion weld. All in due time..
Practice aside, here is the hole filling effort in the baffle panels...
While Kyle worked on filling the holes, I had directed attention to the condenser and the holes we would need to add to the passenger side baffle prior to powder coat... just as shown in the book..
....only Murphy had other plans, it appears our condenser was intended for a cross flow radiator...
Hmm..... don't think this is going to work. So to back up and punt, the plan is to make a mounting bracket that will hold this universal condenser to a top flow radiator all while hiding those ugly holes that scream "I'm a universal fit". Then we'll have to get some new hard lines made up that fit correctly.
Layout of the mounting bracket...
Don't try this at home, it was done on a closed test track...
The ears inside will be folded inward to use the same bolts on the side of the radiator.. Here we are making the top and bottom folds in the magnetic brake, this design will help to hide all those holes..
....and we'll finish the mounting flanges next time..
Started with a test fit of the power antenna the owner had bought, installed somewhat easily and even clears the door hinge when closed by 1/4". But this trim ring on top is just......obnoxious. Anyone use a power antenna that is a bit easier to hide?
Next, lets get the VA unit under the dash to see how much room we have to work with on a radio..
Doh! We had planned on a single DIN chassis, so it appears the radio will need to be 4" deep, or go back into the dash, or go in a console. She did buy a console with the bucket seats, they all came out of a late model Monte Carlo. Let's give that a go.
Not much room for installing a single DIN chassis, but even worse the console tapers in at the bottom where the trans tunnel is spreading outward. So it looks like its teeter tottering. Doesn't match the car at all. So this looks like something else to add to the list, perhaps a custom made console is in order..
Since we're not doing too well inside the car, let's shift gears and move to the outside. We had a couple more parts to add to the pile awaiting powder coat. The side baffles of the core support had some hole alignment issues, must be off a 57 or something.... so we'll fill those in and get them re-drilled correctly. Next, we need mounting brackets for the radiator. These were made from some 16 gauge cold rolled steel..
We do now have much better clearance around the radiator petcock with the new improved version of the lower baffle..
Kyle had learned some Tig welding this past weekend at GatorMeet, from Gator's boy Dakota. Dakota is quite accomplished for his youth, having won the state competition for welding. Here Kyle runs a couple of practice samples to get the machine dialed in... Seems he forgot his long sleeve welding shirt this evening.
I had shown him how to tack without using filler, and gave him more aspiration by showing him a no-filler fusion weld. All in due time..
Practice aside, here is the hole filling effort in the baffle panels...
While Kyle worked on filling the holes, I had directed attention to the condenser and the holes we would need to add to the passenger side baffle prior to powder coat... just as shown in the book..
....only Murphy had other plans, it appears our condenser was intended for a cross flow radiator...
Hmm..... don't think this is going to work. So to back up and punt, the plan is to make a mounting bracket that will hold this universal condenser to a top flow radiator all while hiding those ugly holes that scream "I'm a universal fit". Then we'll have to get some new hard lines made up that fit correctly.
Layout of the mounting bracket...
Don't try this at home, it was done on a closed test track...
The ears inside will be folded inward to use the same bolts on the side of the radiator.. Here we are making the top and bottom folds in the magnetic brake, this design will help to hide all those holes..
....and we'll finish the mounting flanges next time..
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Started with a test fit of the power antenna the owner had bought, installed somewhat easily and even clears the door hinge when closed by 1/4". But this trim ring on top is just......obnoxious. Anyone use a power antenna that is a bit easier to hide?
First off Robert, OUCH!!! That looks like it hurt.
As far as the power antenna, I installed one in a guys car a few years ago very similar to that one. It was a fairly inexpensive aftermarket one and when he brought it to me I almost tossed it in the garbage but that is what he wanted. I thought I didn't want anything like that going out of my shop so I had to do the same thing, back up and punt.
I ended up machining a small recess out of tubing and blocking the bottom for the mounting. I sunk the assembly down into the quarter so that the top ring was flush with the sheet metal and the actual little "nub" on the top of the antenna was just above flush. The one I used had a very similar little chrome trim piece with the black phenolic or hard plastic mounting ring. I masked and scuffed the chrome ring and painted it body color and all in all it turned out very nice. I was at least not embarassed of it having my name on it and the customer was very happy with it as I had exceeded his expectation, which is always a good thing.
I wish I had a picture but I don't have any digital pictures of the car.
Mike.
gelierb
Well-known member
Another great thread! Hope all is well with you Robert.
I'm getting ready to buy a gas torch, to play at welding a bit (and for all the other misc uses). Maybe new, maybe used if I can find used. People are telling me to buy Victor, more established on the west coast I guess. I was going to buy a "medium" size set but after looking at the handles I'm thinking "heavy duty" is not that much larger. Can't I just use a small welding tip on the larger handle? Victor also still makes a set with old style gauges (Journeyman 450). Thanks for any opinions.
looking at:
http://store.cyberweld.com/vijowecuou.html
or the older style gauges:
http://store.cyberweld.com/vijo450wecuo.html
__________________
I'm getting ready to buy a gas torch, to play at welding a bit (and for all the other misc uses). Maybe new, maybe used if I can find used. People are telling me to buy Victor, more established on the west coast I guess. I was going to buy a "medium" size set but after looking at the handles I'm thinking "heavy duty" is not that much larger. Can't I just use a small welding tip on the larger handle? Victor also still makes a set with old style gauges (Journeyman 450). Thanks for any opinions.
looking at:
http://store.cyberweld.com/vijowecuou.html
or the older style gauges:
http://store.cyberweld.com/vijo450wecuo.html
__________________
Personally I prefer the old style gauges. Can't remember if you got David Gardiner's restoration DVD or not, but it has a good tutorial on it for OA welding. IIRC, he uses about 2-3 lbs on both O & A.
Some previews:
https://www.youtube.com/user/mindover3/videos
Some previews:
https://www.youtube.com/user/mindover3/videos
xtremek
Well-known member
I'm guessing that a shallow french of the antenna is out of the question.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Robert....I thought I posted about this but maybe I forgot to hit submit.....what about something like an '85 Eldorado or Seville power antenna as the top bezel is a lot smaller? Or what about possibly making an upwards dimple on the fender that conforms to the flat mounting bezel of the antenna and lets it sit flat?
Guster
Well-known member
Wonder if that antenna would look any better if it sat slight recessed in a dimple.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, my '87 Corvette has a recessed antenna. It has a composite/plastic bezel that sets in the recess. I think the '55 has more of a curve but the bezel could be sanded to match the shape. Here's how it looks in the car:
On the 84-87 Corvettes the antenna housing has a large nut that screws onto the bezel, which looks like this:
The 88-96 Corvettes use a different mount that doesn't require the large nut. The bezel looks like this:
The bezels are available new in the $10-15 range from most of the Corvette parts places (http://www.parts123.com/corvettecen...cat=52QO&_ga=1.204461271.613831528.1430504464).
The antennas are also available from those suppliers but run over $200. Used ones in near perfect condition should be a lot cheaper and I suspect the universal ones would be easy to adapt (OK, easy for you
).
On the 84-87 Corvettes the antenna housing has a large nut that screws onto the bezel, which looks like this:
The 88-96 Corvettes use a different mount that doesn't require the large nut. The bezel looks like this:
The bezels are available new in the $10-15 range from most of the Corvette parts places (http://www.parts123.com/corvettecen...cat=52QO&_ga=1.204461271.613831528.1430504464).
The antennas are also available from those suppliers but run over $200. Used ones in near perfect condition should be a lot cheaper and I suspect the universal ones would be easy to adapt (OK, easy for you
).Bob, I'll show that to the owner, but I'm skeered of those Corvette parts. They lure you in with cheap bezels and then bust it off in ya for the rest of it once you get it fitting your fender... 
I do have a buddy here locally that works on Vettes exclusively, I'll have to see what he has in stock for cheap fit up parts...
Plus, I have never had good luck welding the Vette body panels.
I do have a buddy here locally that works on Vettes exclusively, I'll have to see what he has in stock for cheap fit up parts...
Plus, I have never had good luck welding the Vette body panels.
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Well tonight I had an emergency repair to perform.. One of my Brother-in-law's is a career finish carpenter and today, after 34 years of using it without incident, cut a slice into his carpenter's square. He had ground it down some in preparation for loading it up with JB weld, and then thought better of it and called me to check on the possibility of welding. It was aluminum, and although it's been a good while since I've used the Tig on aluminum, let's give it a go...
Weld ground down, and even stamped some numbers back in on the decimal conversion chart..
Nice and straight still....
All ready for him to use again tomorrow..
Weld ground down, and even stamped some numbers back in on the decimal conversion chart..
Nice and straight still....
All ready for him to use again tomorrow..
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Well tonight I had an emergency repair to perform.. One of my Brother-in-law's is a career finish carpenter and today, after 34 years of using it without incident, cut a slice into his carpenter's square. He had ground it down some in preparation for loading it up with JB weld, and then thought better of it and called me to check on the possibility of welding. It was aluminum, and although it's been a good while since I've used the Tig on aluminum, let's give it a go...
Nice and straight still....
All ready for him to use again tomorrow..
MP&C, you have an amazing gift with metal.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Actually I'm happy to hear that. I've tried flux core wire, MIG and even DC TIG and I just can't get a tack to stick -- really hard to see through all the smoke. Even with a copper backer I blow holes every time. Planishing also just seems to make it worse. I'm thinking a bigger hammer -- just need to find my BFH....Plus, I have never had good luck welding the Vette body panels.
More progress on the condenser mount... The flange fold marks are run through the tipping wheel to better show the bend location. I've found that when using the press brakes this helps to "feel" when the upper die is located properly, less guesswork with the eyeballs where it's harder to see in the press brake dies..
Clamped in place for a test fit..
The side folds add some stiffening as well as hide the bolt heads for the core support baffle plates.
Test fit of the condenser...
Radiator brackets got a nut welded in the bottom hole, the condenser mount will get nuts welded in place for the top 2 sets of holes, so everything will bolt in from the outside in..
Making the slots for the radiator brackets, used a cone shaped burr....
Found that this cutter had less chatter when the cutting edge was perpendicular to the hole opening...
Clamped in place for a test fit..
The side folds add some stiffening as well as hide the bolt heads for the core support baffle plates.
Test fit of the condenser...
Radiator brackets got a nut welded in the bottom hole, the condenser mount will get nuts welded in place for the top 2 sets of holes, so everything will bolt in from the outside in..
Making the slots for the radiator brackets, used a cone shaped burr....
Found that this cutter had less chatter when the cutting edge was perpendicular to the hole opening...
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Some more details to iron out on the condenser mount, the corners seemed to "roll" a bit, so some corner braces are in order..
Using 16 gauge cold rolled, holes drilled to provide an inside radius to help prevent stress cracking..
Plug welds to hold things together..
For Bob, I had a Corvette part delivery over the weekend, size of the business end is rather larger than the aftermarket one we had. As this fit in the void behind the A pillar (see in background between cowl vent and A pillar) and also needs to dodge the hinges closing, this did cause some interference. Dan thought this was from a late 80's/early 90's.. May look at a different escutcheon for the aftermarket antenna or a slight frenching..
Using 16 gauge cold rolled, holes drilled to provide an inside radius to help prevent stress cracking..
Plug welds to hold things together..
For Bob, I had a Corvette part delivery over the weekend, size of the business end is rather larger than the aftermarket one we had. As this fit in the void behind the A pillar (see in background between cowl vent and A pillar) and also needs to dodge the hinges closing, this did cause some interference. Dan thought this was from a late 80's/early 90's.. May look at a different escutcheon for the aftermarket antenna or a slight frenching..
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Robert, this is what a Seville antenna look like. Compact to fit into the flatter fenders.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Also, here is a slim Mercedes antenna, but I don't know about the bezel on them http://www.nextdayauto.com/1985-mercedes-benz-190d-power-antenna-hirschmann-w0133-1602170.html
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Robert, this is what a Seville antenna look like. Compact to fit into the flatter fenders. It also states that it is compatible with 1600 different vehicles http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-NOS...tric-Power-Antenna-NR-/291400060896#cvip_desc
Kevin, thanks for all the research and suggestions. The biggest issue with the universal power antenna we have is that the top of the fender is considerably rounded, and the antenna escutcheon is designed for flat. We are also looking at the factory piece, to see if we could adapt (drill hole larger) to use with the power antenna.
More progress on the condenser, used some machine screws to attach to the bracket, and some AVK style rivet-nuts in the frame of the condenser to act as a captive nut.
Bolted in place...
Meanwhile Kyle ties up some loose ends, finishing the weld across the remaining "shaved" lead seam on the passenger quarter.. It does need some grinding on the underside of the weld still but we'll wait for the car to be on the rotisserie for easier access.
Fitment of the Driver's side tail light... this was even worse than the passenger side in fitment, and we did need to make a relief cut at the top, but after some massaging, it's getting close. A few more tweaks to get this done and then the headache of installing the motorized tail light pivot for fuel fill access..
Bolted in place...
Meanwhile Kyle ties up some loose ends, finishing the weld across the remaining "shaved" lead seam on the passenger quarter.. It does need some grinding on the underside of the weld still but we'll wait for the car to be on the rotisserie for easier access.
Fitment of the Driver's side tail light... this was even worse than the passenger side in fitment, and we did need to make a relief cut at the top, but after some massaging, it's getting close. A few more tweaks to get this done and then the headache of installing the motorized tail light pivot for fuel fill access..