MP&C Shop Projects

[BORING HOP YARD]

Howdy Robert, I have a quick question about E-coating.
I'm working on the running boards on my 56 ford and after stripping mine I decided they were "hammered beyond worth the hours it would take to fix the errors" so I purchased new and they are e-coated. My question is... would you strip the e-coat and prime with SPI or ? I have soaked a rag with Thinner, MEK and Acetone and the e-coat has not been affected. Everything else on the truck has been primed with SPI or PPG MBE-200 epoxy primer. I always value your opinion and would be interested in your suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
Greg

 

[MP&C]

If those thinners don't affect the coating, then it should be a stable base, but my reservation comes from hearing too many horror stories of someone sanding through those coatings to find surface rust or other defects that showed the panels weren't prepped properly. Maybe you can use the coating as a "high build", block out the flat areas and see how it looks underneath.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Great idea for using it as a high build, thank you for your input!
If I see any sign of anything foul I will strip them.

 

[shortykorte]

Nice hammer stand. Can we get a picture without the hammers in it? I assume the various dollies interchange.
Also nice phone. Yep a little hammer and dolly and it should be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MP&C]

 

[MP&C]

Let's see how many pictures want to show up today...


Some progress from this past weekend.... trimming the painted aluminum panel prior to bending the long folds

Installed.....

Added new hooks on the safety chains

....new wiring harness,

....fabricated a new handle and used a bicycle grip, replacing the duct tape repaired original....

Roof seams were sealed using mesh to help make the repairs more permanent..

All ready for some keg action.. Painted panel was owner supplied, he had ordered it to make an outfield sign at a local ball field, re-purposed it to get the keg trailer back in one piece for a large wedding this coming weekend.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Very cool hammer stand Robert and good work bringing the beer trailer back to life! Not all metal work is restoring fancy cars...there are mundane tasks also that require the same level of craftsmenship.

 

[NASTYZEN]

I agree, your hammer anvil stand is pretty cool Robert. Your repairs to the old trailer are also top notch as always.

 

[shortykorte]

Thanks Robert

 

[bonneyman]

What a beautiful piece of work!

 

[MP&C]

Well this past week we got to fix the damaged bus from the pickup crash.

Mike tearing into the carnage... That green body tool (JD draw bar) did the best job of prying out the inner structure..

As it doesn't fit in the booth, some paint was applied under the moonlight.. We kept the G-nats at bay by using an oscillating pattern of air movement, parallel to the rear panel. About fifteen minutes of that and the coat had flashed..

Assembly.....

....bumper added...and the bus has left the building....

 

[MP&C]

After the bus left, we worked to fix the overheating issue Jake was having with his 71 Scamp.... The electric fan wasn't cutting it, so he wanted to try a flex fan and shroud. So let's make a shroud..


The ring was cut out and Tig welded together, and beads added using the Fasti bead roller.

The mounting flange is tipped to spot weld to the side baffles, here a linear stretch die in the Lennox Nibbler adds the stretch needed...

Spot welded to the baffles...

test fit.....

We started running out of daylight but finally got it back together. Jake said it didn't get over 160 on the way home, so much better than the electric fan was doing..

 

[wasfast]

Score: Bus--bent bumper and a little sheetmetal damage. Truck--Completely devastated!

 

[MP&C]

Truck ended up being totaled

 

[GRN96WS6]

All the bus post pics aren't showing in the most recent post....

 

[JoelReeves]

that is post #2533 with no pictures

 

[txvwnut]

Which is odd as the pics of the fan shroud are showing.

 

[GoodJobTim]

Same here.

 

[MP&C]

On the bus post I originally had more than 7 pics so I used google photos links. Doesn't look like we play nice together, so I limited number to 7 and uploaded here to GJ.. fan shroud was less than 7 so I had uploaded to GJ. looks like we're back to the drawing board for photo hosting..

 

[JoelReeves]

bus pictures now visible, so maybe something changed. I didn't change (Chrome browser on a Mac)

 

[NASTYZEN]

I use Image shack for photo hosting for what it's worth. I think it's 36 bucks a year subscription. They do free hosting as well.
The only problem I had is that they made all my pictures huge when they upgraded a few years ago.....

 

[TimeWarpF100]

very very cool!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

After the bus left, we worked to fix the overheating issue Jake was having with his 71 Scamp.... The electric fan wasn't cutting it, so he wanted to try a flex fan and shroud. So let's make a shroud..


The ring was cut out and Tig welded together, and beads added using the Fasti bead roller.

The mounting flange is tipped to spot weld to the side baffles, here a linear stretch die in the Lennox Nibbler adds the stretch needed...

Spot welded to the baffles...

test fit.....

We started running out of daylight but finally got it back together. Jake said it didn't get over 160 on the way home, so much better than the electric fan was doing..

Nice! 99% of time use my cell phone to view here at GJ. Just realized that very few of the pics posted will show on phone.

 

[MP&C]

Thanks Randy!



Went to Jalopyrama a couple weeks ago and finally got around to uploading the pictures I took...

 

[DieselDent]

Thanks Randy!



Went to Jalopyrama a couple weeks ago and finally got around to uploading the pictures I took...

That's awesome, where was the show.

 

[MP&C]

Jalopyrama is held every fall, this year it was Oct 14 at the Shipley Arena in Westminster, MD. They normally focus on traditional hot rods, but added customs in the mix this year.

 

[ilovevocs]

Thanks for uploading the pics. I enjoyed looking at them.

 

[MP&C]

Looks like all the pictures showed up this time, I think I have Google images figured out more better now..

 

[MP&C]

Well I think I have google images figured out now, so lets try an update on the wagon.

With the back seat rear enclosure and it's frame both sprayed in epoxy, time to assemble the two together. I didn't want to use hardware/rivets on the skin as I thought it would stay flatter under the upholstery without. Also, with the amp and bass speaker inside the enclosure, we needed something to limit vibration of the adjacent pieces. Our choice is to use some body molding adhesive tape to join the two together.

The tape is applied to the frame, and then the skin attached on top of that..

Next, we need to work on our console and the shifter inside of it. We have the console that came with the 2002 Monte Carlo interior, but it has far too much plastic that it didn't belong. In looking at other options, we decided on the horse shoe shifter used on the Chevelle. In conducting a test fit of the cable, we found it's trajectory path was much too straight where it either lifted the front of the shifter, or pulled the bulkhead fitting out of the "tunnel" mockup.

Shifter lift:

Our solution was to raise the cable exit from the shifter housing higher in order to have a better arc of the cable for entry through the floor. Here a "relocation bracket" has been added:

Bracket all welded in place, looks like this will work for our shifter, return policy officially void now, but cable path fits much better through the floor:

We also needed to finalize seat belts for the rear seats. These are 12 gauge CRS pieces that are plug welded to the floor pan, 1/2" diameter bolt holding the anchor points for inner seat belts.

The outer belts needed to be all the way out to the wheel well, and to better "anchor" we made similar 12 ga brackets, this one with a hemmed end to "hook" the pinch weld seam of the floor pan/wheel well, then plug welded in place to the wheel well. Again, a 1/2" bolt will anchor the seat belt:

While Mike and Jake started the layout of the console.........

......I fabbed up some bucket seat brackets out of 16 ga CRS for a 37 Ford. These had to be 3" high and only 1-1/2" wide, which was too high for my gooseneck die in the press brake. Chose to make them in two pieces and fusion tacked together using the TIG.

 

[JoelReeves]

the last picture is a now show

 

[MP&C]

I know this is late notice, but we are having another metalshaping class at the shop this year. I had a full class but one guy had to drop out for personal reasons. Our instructor this year is Pat Brubaker (Patman on metalmeet and allmetalshaping)

Class itinerary is Buck building, patterns: paper, fsp, rigid, Shaping with hand tools vs. power tools, planning your panel, linear and radial shrinking and stretching, Pre-stretching on the English wheel, press dies and epoxy hammer forms, welding and finishing seams, metal finishing (I believe this will also include dent repair). In addition to the training, there should be time to work on your personal project. Class will be four days, from Nov 17-20. Anyone interested please PM and include a contact number that we can discuss details.

 

[MP&C]

Console fabrication

Bottom and under dash edges are hemmed, folded flanges will support the filler panel between each side..

Fitting up the corner radius

 

[shortykorte]

If you had announced the open slot for class, good chance I'd signed up. It would be perfect information for my on hold project.

Also as always thanks for showing us how to fab.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MP&C]

Some sprayouts done this evening to see if we can nail down a color for the green.

Will take another video tomorrow in the Sunlight for the true test.

Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green
Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green
Color 3: Audi Azores Green
Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat

 

[22george]

Robert,
I seem to remember in a previous post, you drilled out a lot of spot welds. What type of cutter did you use and where did you get them. I am breaking min quite easily inclusing the expensive Blair brand. What am I doing Wrong
Thanks
Reid

 

[MP&C]

I don't use spot weld drills as IMO they cause too much damage, I find them difficult to determine when you've reached the stopping point or when you've gone too far. If the bottom panel is throwaway, I just drill through and use the hole in the top panel for plug welding. If the top panel is throwaway, I use a cutoff wheel to grind away the spot weld and use the heat ring (discolored blue metal) to act as a depth gauge. I can save the bottom panel with much better precision and eliminate repairs from going too far by using the cutoff wheel. Messier, yes. I have a video on my you tube channel that shows the cut off wheel removing spot welds

 

[RivennHewn]

That’s a great tip!
Thanks for sharing

 

[MP&C]

Tutorial:

 

[MP&C]

Sunlight views in same order,

Color 1: Corvette Limerock Green
Color 2: Land Rover Kosrae Green
Color 3: Audi Azores Green
Color 4: H/K Organic Green Kandy Basecoat

Didn't get pictures in overcast, but these help to show, 1-3 don't show color well at all in overcast or dim/indirect light conditions. As we'd like the car to look green regardless, we're leaning toward the H/K

 

[MP&C]

Doing some organizing in the shop, getting ready for the metalshaping class. Saturday we made a rack for the Hoosier Profiles anvils for the wheeling machine. Used 2 x 4 x 1/8" aluminum angle and Tig welded on round stock. Go kart slick mounts on the back side.

Also picked out a spot on the bench for mounting the new arbor press..