Mr cool diy install hints

[sgiss]

1. Manual is pretty generic and not always accurate or complete - use common sense ( example it says remove mounting bracket from box, but doesn't mention that it is screwed into the indoor unit.
2. Look carefully at how the indoor unit mounts to the bracket BEFORE you do the install - you will not be able to see how the mounting clips while you are holding the whole thing up and trying to mount it!
3. The plastic wall sleeve is small.... install it after you have the pipe through the wall (make a larger cardboard sleeve as need to protect the lineset as you feed it through the wall)
4. The manual warns against kinking the lineset, but you can not really see the lineset with all the installation and wrapping. I might make the wall hole at a strong angle so that the bend in the lineset is not as sharp exiting the wall on the exterior.
5 Well packaged except the bottom of the indoor unit where the lineset is right against the bottom of the box... potential for forklift damage.

 

[BAM2875]

6. There really is a cardboard template in the box for the lineset hole location. I found it after I was done.
7. A 3" hole works fine if going nearly perpendicular vs the 3.5" recommended. The plastic wall sleeve is about 2.5". I didn't use it. The vinyl sleeve that is around the lineset is what drives the hole size requirement because it tends to bunch up a little, especially if trying to angle it down into a wall cavity.
8. For the left side lineset exit configuration, the lineset probably needs to exit at an angle from the unit. This is what the picture in the manual shows, but it's not obvious at first that they are telling you to do it this way. The right side exit config, which is the standard one, has the lineset exiting straight out the back. There are multiple braze joints in the section where you are trying to bend the pipes to get them in position for this left exit configuration, which is part of why they need to come out at an angle less than 90 degrees. It was a little nerve-wracking making sure not to kink the lines to get the correct angle, because the braze joints were really stiff and things wanted to bend in limited locations. I angled them into a stud cavity to run them in the wall. Make sure the hole is on the right side of the stud cavity so there is room to finish the turn once it's inside the wall, whether going down the wall or to the exterior hole. There is nothing in the manual that would make you think of this unless you really visualize everything before you cut the hole and lift it up there. I picked the hole location and then mounted the bracket accordingly
9. To go along with #4, except for at the ends, the suction pipe is some sort of spiral type with a braided sleeve. It's actually very flexible, except not so much that making a 90 degree angle on a tight radius is stress free. The liquid line splits into two small copper lines that are about 3/16" each and packed inside a clear vinyl tube. It is easy to bend. The two lines plus electrical are inside an overall vinyl sleeve. I couldn't get any information on the minimum bend radius for the braided line. From installation pictures where the lineset was run down an exterior wall inside line hide, it seemed like the line could be bent fairly sharply. In hindsight, that installation is bending the solid copper portion of the tube, not the braided portion. I forgot about that at the time. It was nerve-wracking bending the line to get from the wall to outside. I ended up splitting the outer vinyl covering to be able to directly feel the braided line as I was shaping it. I got it to work, but a sharp angle per #4 suggestion would have made it less stressful.
10. For wifi control on an android device, use an apple device with the app to register an account per comments from the android app store. The android app works after the account is setup, but it wouldn't create an account successfully as of two weeks ago. Apple app worked fine.

 

[gtae07]

I would suggest measuring out the true length of your lineset and using a hose or similar to simulate it prior to hard-mounting your indoor unit. Otherwise, you'll do like I did and wind up with 4ft of extra lineset that you could have used to put the indoor unit closer to the middle of the room

 

[PoorOwner]

For the 120v unit can you wire up a cord and plug so it can plug in a 20 amp receptacle?

 

[aunsafe2015]

For the 120v unit can you wire up a cord and plug so it can plug in a 20 amp receptacle?

I think this model comes standard with a typical plug to be plugged straight into a standard outlet: http://www.climaterightair.com/clim...2-000-btu-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump.html.

Don't quote me on that, because I could be wrong. But that's my initial understanding of the product.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Sounds like you were putting together hints while I was out installing mine. The biggest issues I have had so far are working with the long lineset pre-attached to the indoor unit, and you are right about the vinyl sleeve wanting to bunch pushing through a 3 inch hole. I ended up with a squeeze and push routine.

Now, I admittedly have not pulled off any insulation from my lineset, haven't even pulled off the clear plastic shipping sleeve yet to be honest, but not following you here...

9. To go along with #4, except for at the ends, the suction pipe is some sort of spiral type with a braided sleeve. It's actually very flexible, except not so much that making a 90 degree angle on a tight radius is stress free. The liquid line splits into two small copper lines that are about 3/16" each..

Silly question, but are you sure you are not talking about the drain line there ? Both refrigerant lines are copper on mine as far as I can see (never seen anything else), and your description sounds like the the drain.

Just curious,

Jason

 

[BAM2875]

Now, I admittedly have not pulled off any insulation from my lineset, haven't even pulled off the clear plastic shipping sleeve yet to be honest, but not following you here...

9. To go along with #4, except for at the ends, the suction pipe is some sort of spiral type with a braided sleeve. It's actually very flexible, except not so much that making a 90 degree angle on a tight radius is stress free. The liquid line splits into two small copper lines that are about 3/16" each..

Silly question, but are you sure you are not talking about the drain line there ? Both refrigerant lines are copper on mine as far as I can see (never seen anything else), and your description sounds like the the drain.

Just curious,

Jason

I have the 18kbtu unit. The liquid line is all copper on mine, although it changes from a single tube to two smaller parallel tubes about 12" from each end. The suction line is copper for about 2' on the indoor unit side, and for 12" or so on the outdoor side. Under the insulation, it changes to a braided flex line that is silver in color (braid and tube). You can tell where it changes to braided line by the flexibility difference.