Mr. Heater - 45,000 BTU

[PCO6]

Is any one familiar with the Mr. Heater 45,000 BTU heaters? I'm looking to heat a 20'x20'x12' well insulated space with a vapour barrier and I'm sure it will handle that. I'm more concerned about instalation, exhaust, propane or gas preferences, etc. and whether you have had good or bad experiences with them. Thanks.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307961_200307961?
cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

 

[Jimmy_B]

I use a Modine Hot Dawg unit that looks very much the same as the Mr Heater. My garage is about 800' with a 9' ceiling. 45k BTU should be more than enough, but I went with the larger 75k unit so I can bring the garage up to working temp quicker.

Installation was easy. The hardest part for me was running natural gas to the garage. I tapped into the supply right after the meter and trenched it in around the house because the heater is located exactly opposite of where the supply is located. I didn't want to run that all the way through the house. Ran high pressure and knocked it down just inside the garage. Don't have to worry about starving my other appliances since everything in the house is on NG too.

These things can be vented straight out the back through a wall too. Very easy to do. I went up through the roof though. I have stucco and am not a fan of punching holes through it. Just a personal preference.

When I bought my home we were on propane. When natural gas became available I switched everything over to that. Propane is very wet and hard on furnaces and water heaters from my experience. But I'm not an HVAC guy, so I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along.

 

[Mmfh]

You say you took off from the meter and then just after going inside you regulated it down to the needed pressure for the heater, is that a regulator I see in the picture behind the heater?

I thought the heater had its own regulator as part of the gas valve, is that not true with the Hotdawg? The BigMaxx I think its part of the heater??

Mm

 

[dave67fd]

PC06,

Your first decision should be which gas is available. If you don't have NG locally available you will need to go with LP. If you already have NG to your residence then this would be your obvious choice. Unless your well experienced on gas piping i would leave to the proffesionals. The correct thing to do is inquire with your town hall/local inspector on the required codes for gas heaters. If you plan to do yourself you should learn all the required codes. There are too many accidents/disasters that happen because of improper installations.

If the decision comes that you will be doing the install, your first decision should be the location. The heater needs/should be located were it warms or blows to the area that will be the coldest or lets in the coldest air (i.e. overhead garage doors, windows etc..). You will also need to locate it in an area that best suits the venting and the gas line with the venting taking priority. The venting type (horizontal or vertical) will need to be located in an area that meets all your local/state codes. If you are not required with any state/local codes you will need to follow the manufactures installation requirements which states NFPA codes to follow.

If going with LP gas the gas line will need to be sized for the length of the run as well as the BTU requirements of the heater. When sizing, keep future additions in mind. You will also need to locate the Tank in a servicable/filling area as well as meeting codes for distances to openings, areas of ignition ect...

The heaters don't draw alot of current but should be hardwired and on it's own circuit to minimize tripping or excessive noise that might occur if sharing with other circuits/appliances.

Locate the thermostat on an inside wall away from direct stream of the heater. These heaters accept fan only mode if you think you might want to run just the fan in the summer for air distribution. There are garage thermostats that allow you to set the thermostat to as low as 35 deg.. Also if you decide on a electronic programmable stat you may think about an isolation transformer as they can cause interference with the control circuits on the heaters main board.

The 45k unit should heat your area adequately but if you havent purchased you may be a bit more efficient with a 75k unit.

 

[Mmfh]

Is any one familiar with the Mr. Heater 45,000 BTU heaters? I'm looking to heat a 20'x20'x12' well insulated space with a vapour barrier and I'm sure it will handle that. I'm more concerned about instalation, exhaust, propane or gas preferences, etc. and whether you have had good or bad experiences with them. Thanks.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307961_200307961?
cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

I just did a 75k unit and it went well. We are pulling it out because its too small for his space and putting it in mine, which is the same size as your space.

I hung it up with "3/8 all thread rod, very easy. Bought the exhaust kit from Northern and cut a hole in the back wall, ran horizontal because it has a power vent. Out it went with just a couple of home made straps to keeps everything put. His ran Propane, all he has, we used black pipe 3/4" from floor level up to the heater, flexible line at both ends with a shut off valve also at the heater.

Worked great!

I'm going to run mine off of gas because I think its cheaper, both do about the same efficiently wise although propane is a little harder on the heater. It burns "wetter" than NG and can be hard on the heater parts.

Other wise its seems good and unexpectedly quiet. Good product but check it when you get it for shipping damage, common problem.

Mm

 

[Jimmy_B]

You say you took off from the meter and then just after going inside you regulated it down to the needed pressure for the heater, is that a regulator I see in the picture behind the heater?

I thought the heater had its own regulator as part of the gas valve, is that not true with the Hotdawg? The BigMaxx I think its part of the heater??

Mm

It is a regulator. NG comes in at high pressure, which I believe is 2 psi? Then regulated down to low pressure, 1/2 psi? The appliances have regulators to control the low pressure. I have the same regulator in my house. I could have run a line from the low pressure side in my basement out to the garage to feed the heater, then I wouldn't have needed the extra regulator. My home furnace is NG, as well as the WH, dryer and range. I didn't want to add one more appliance and risk starving one of them should they all fire up at once.

I'd listen to dave67fd, he seems very knowledgeable in this area. I'm just a door knob who has done this for himself a couple of times. Maybe I'm lucky nothing has blown up yet?

 

[PCO6]

Thanks for the replys. I looked at this a bit closer and think that NG is the way to go and it won't be hard to do in my situation (plus one of my brothers is a pipe fitter). The electrics seem easy enough and how hard can cutting a hole in my roof be? I'm sure I can handle the rough ins but it's good advice to get the right permits and inspections. They seem like a reliable unit.

 

[regguy1]

I have the 45K MH Nat gas in my 26' x 30' you can see it in the video link below....Guided tour

 

[PCO6]

I have the 45K MH Nat gas in my 26' x 30' you can see it in the video link below....Guided tour

Thanks ... but I don't see a link.

 

[MichMan517]

I just installed a 45K NG Mr. Heater in my 24x24x10 well insulated garage, and am very happy with it. Did it myself, and a 30 yr. exp HVAC buddy gave the install a thumbs up. The first months gas bill was about the same as last years, but this is an abnormally warm winter so far. I am really rough guessing here, but would put the gas use for the garage at around $1 day. I keep it around 55, and bump it up when out there for any length of time.

 

[regguy1]

Thanks ... but I don't see a link.

Below the signature line "Check out the inside of the garage"

Here's a 2nd one:

I'll even throw in a photo

 

[sixt8bird]

Below the signature line "Check out the inside of the garage"

Here's a 2nd one:

I'll even throw in a photo

Thats just too messy!!!! You my friend have a serious problem!!!! LOL

Here's what my incredibly clean garage looks like. 24'X36'x10' high and stuffed. It was actually worse before I built the 2600 sf barn.

Here's the Barn

And a few pictures of my projects current projects.

I have a 45,000 btu Reznor heater that works pretty well. One thing is, just don't go too big on the heater as it will end up cycling on and off alot until the surfaces of everything gets aclimated to the air tempurature. My barn with 30 ft ceilings has a 375,000 btu Propane heater . It takes about 10 minutes to get to temperature and then the upper floor stays toasty with a couple propane bottle heaters.

 

[nwav8tor]

It is a regulator. NG comes in at high pressure, which I believe is 2 psi? Then regulated down to low pressure, 1/2 psi? The appliances have regulators to control the low pressure. I have the same regulator in my house. I could have run a line from the low pressure side in my basement out to the garage to feed the heater, then I wouldn't have needed the extra regulator. My home furnace is NG, as well as the WH, dryer and range. I didn't want to add one more appliance and risk starving one of them should they all fire up at once.

I'd listen to dave67fd, he seems very knowledgeable in this area. I'm just a door knob who has done this for himself a couple of times. Maybe I'm lucky nothing has blown up yet?

Not sure how you tapped into the "high" pressure side and needed a regulator just prior to your shop heater to step it down to operating pressure. At my house, the gas company has their regulator (the only regulator I see in the system) PRIOR to the gas meter so everything after the meter is "low" operating pressure into the house. Is your line tapped BEFORE the meter? That's one way to keep your shop heating bills low!!

Paul

 

[nippaero]

My meter is after the regulator as well. So everything is low pressure.

My question is what type of pipe did you lay underground? I have to run my line about 80 feet to my new shop building. My local heating/sheet metal company said I could use a flex pipe that is plastic. BUT I had to have a special 90 degree pipe fitting on each end where the pipe exits the ground. They wanted $100 a piece for this fitting!! I can't remember at the moment what they called it. The flexible pipe was not too bad and sold by the foot.

I was looking at he 45K BTU unit today at Lowes. My building is 24x24 with 9 foot vaulted ceilings.