Mr Heater 75k wont ignite problem

[83trekker]

Have had my heater for 5 years never a problem worked awsome. Now i turn it on, the exhaust fan turns on, you can hear a click which sounds like the gas turning on, does this 3 times then shuts down. No flame is ever lit.

Shits down and gte 2 flashing lights on the board.

Bad igniter?

If i call the company are they good to deal with?

HELP I AM COOLLDD!!!!!

 

[Cowboy69]

do you have a horizontal vent kit?

 

[83trekker]

It goes out the back fo the heater then straight up through the roof.

 

[Cowboy69]

mine was doing the same thing but it turned out to be too much back pressure on the vent. It is either that or your pressure valve bad, there are two wires on that valve, a red one and brown one. Connect the two together, if it fires you need a new valve, if it dont then it is a blocked chimney, there is a white hose running from the blower motor area up to the pressure valve, it will be easy to see and get too.

 

[Cowboy69]

Try mrheater.com and look at the trouble shoot page

 

[Bronson]

There should be a code explanation right on the control unit, that explains what 2 blinks means.

 

[ForceFed70]

2 flashes means that it failed to detect or maintain flame.

Does it actually try to ignite? Do you see/hear the sparking? If not, I would suspect a bad ignitor. If it is indeed sparking but no ignition then it could be lack of fuel. Gas is turned on right?

You can find the manual online here: http://www.mrheater.com/upload/newsletter/MHU_HSU_CUH_60016_BL.pdf

 

[nwav8tor]

Shits down and gte 2 flashing lights on the board.

Bad igniter?

If i call the company are they good to deal with?

My 75K BigMaxx manual says that 2 flashes indicates "System lockout - failed to detect or sustain flame, Current signal at FLAME terminal <0.6 microamps."

FYI, the lockout will last for 60 minutes before it attempts another lite-up cycle. You can bypass the 1hr lockout by moving the thermostat switch from Heat to Off and then back to Heat.

I'd GUESS that it could be a bad ignitor or a bad gas valve. I'd call the company at (800) 251-0001 [M-F 8:30 to 5 ET] and ask them what the likely problem is. I've called them twice for info concerning my install and found them helpful and easy to work with.

Other than that, you might need to get a furnace repair tech to check it out...

Good Luck,
Paul

 

[83trekker]

I normally could here the iginiter clicking, i think for the last 5 years, now no clicking at all.

 

[ForceFed70]

I normally could here the iginiter clicking, i think for the last 5 years, now no clicking at all.

If that's the case and it's giving you a 2-flash code, I would suspect that you have an ignitor problem. If it was a problem with the valve, you would still hear the ignitor.

 

[83trekker]

I also put the red and brown wire togeather and no luck, so it isnt that. I think its the igniter too, those are a normal item to go ona lot of types of furances.

 

[83trekker]

Talked to tech support, they say i need a new board after i described everything. $65 plus shipping. I guess not too bad after 5 years.

 

[Herb67SS]

Ouch!
How much is a new igniter? Might try that first. Usually an easy item to change on most heaters/furnaces.

Even if it doesn't fix it, no money wasted I keep a spare on hand for my main house furnace. Saved my **** twice in 15 yrs. Changed them in the middle of the night both times. That's a $300 service call in my area, plus parts.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Ouch!
How much is a new igniter? Might try that first. Usually an easy item to change on most heaters/furnaces.

Even if it doesn't fix it, no money wasted I keep a spare on hand for my main house furnace. Saved my **** twice in 15 yrs. Changed them in the middle of the night both times. That's a $300 service call in my area, plus parts.

Agreed. Really sounds like the igniter, not the board. Then again if you called the mftr. and that what they recommended, they might know of a board issue causing you problem...

 

[ishiboo]

I also put the red and brown wire togeather and no luck, so it isnt that. I think its the igniter too, those are a normal item to go ona lot of types of furances.

Not sure what the red and brown wire are... is this from the thermocouple?

The thermocouple actually creates voltage so there is a + and a -, you cannot simply splice the wires together as it is not checking for resistance/continuity.


The thermocouple could throw this error but only after it has been lit... you have another issue mentioned above.

 

[regguy1]

Mr. Heater has had control board failures, mine was bad from the get go. Call their tech line and see what they say. Mine had your exact symptom.

 

[83trekker]

I told serivce guy exacrtly how it started and stopped and and no flame and he new in 2 seconds what it was, i asked him wouldnt it be the igniter and he said no its deff the board.

As for the red and bronw wire that is for testing the high pressure switch and to by pass it.

I hope the new board comes with a warrenty, but my heater has been problem free for 5 years so far.

 

[83trekker]

Guys mr heater told me i could manualy light the heater to use it until the new board comes. So i restart it and the gas valve wont come on now and i get 3 blinks. Turns out when i reattached the red and brown wire from the piece that has the clear hose going to it, i install them wrong. So i flipped the wires gas comes on now but wont stay on, cuts right off. I think i might still not have the wires correct.

There is a brown wire, a red wire, there is 2 spade connectors and right below it is a brass looking spade connector, only 2 wires but 3 connectors, comming out of it. Could somebody PLEASE look at theirs and tell me which wire they have goes where?

I would really appreciate, next time im gonna take a picture before i unplug anything.

Thanks!!!

 

[nwav8tor]

On my heater the red wire goes to the top spade and the brown wire goes to the bottom spade. There is not a wire attached to the middle terminal. The diaphram above that "switch" has two ports on it. My clear tubing goes to the port that is towards the front of the heater, there is nothing connected to the rear port. I've attached a picture...

Paul

 

[83trekker]

On my heater the red wire goes to the top spade and the brown wire goes to the bottom spade. There is not a wire attached to the middle terminal. The diaphram above that "switch" has two ports on it. My clear tubing goes to the port that is towards the front of the heater, there is nothing connected to the rear port. I've attached a picture...

Paul

Thanks Paul , i really appreictae it!!

 

[83trekker]

Talked to Mr heater again and my heaters board is totally gone so npow i cannot even run the furance by lighting it manually, just shuts right off after i re light it, i dont get the board untill probably tuesday and its so cold in my garage, any suggestions?

 

[dmsween]

83trekker,

Sounds like the whole board might is probably bad now. I have the same heater, Mr Heater 75K NG and it wasn't lighting. I was able to lite it by hand with a propane lighter when it tried to light itself. My heater was only 1 year old but the good news is the new board fixed everything.

 

[83trekker]

Got my new board installed it and everything is great again!! just thought i would update everybody and it was my board that was bad.

 

[Chetter]

I had to replace my board the first year I had my unit which is propane and they are good folks to deal with. My heater is 3 years old is the 45000btu model. Heat is good for sure!!