Mr Heater 75k
- Thread starter turbosl2
- Start date
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
I guess it all depends on if you are heating it all the time or not. A 90+ heater cannot tollerate the sub freezing temps because most of them have some condensate storage, which will freeze. If you are heating all the time, I can tell you what I use. I have a 40x40 with 15' ceilings and two garage doors. I have a 50,000 btu tube heater, and it heats it piece of cake. I keep it at 45, and kick it up when I am out there. My old 60000 btu reznor was the same way. But if you are going to heat it from dead cold, you need way more btus to give it a kick in the ****.
dave67fd
Well-known member
Something isin't right when you pay twice as much for the vent system than the heater itself.
Also hope those windows are well sealed and stay shut.
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Kinda depends on your budget and expectations. In my leaner years when I needed to get a car restoration project done in fall and winter in an uninsulated 3-car garage, my only option was a little Perfection kerosene heater. 10K BTU, but it cost $25 and ran for 20cents an hour and took the chill off enough that I could get the job done. Every half hour or so I'd have to spend 5 minutes standing next to it with my hands over it, but it sure beat nothing. A sort of bonus was that the Bondo hardened slower--gave me more time to work large areas!
By the time the weather got warm enough for painting, I was ready to paint.
By the time the weather got warm enough for painting, I was ready to paint.
fastjohnny
Well-known member
HVAC Phil
Well-known member
Another illegal DIY install.
You are correct there. I just wanted a good product for a vent system. I knew it was going to cost as much as the heater, i was weighing the option of just putting a home furnace up on a platform and using the PVC exhaust. If i add the costs together i knew i could get a downdraft furnace, probably would have been a better option.
That window is a fixed window over the master tub and does not open. As far as i know that vent should meet code. It may be a little shy on the height requirement but i have another piece of single wall that i can change it out with in about 2mins to extend its length if needed. There is no sofit on the gable to the left and the window is about 10-12feet back, the picture does not do it justice.
HVAC Phil, I appreciate your expert opinion on installs that are illegal. Would/Could you elaborate more about what appears illegal?. I am installing the same unit and come here to learn. I would like to do it correctly and it would help if you elaborated what specifically does not meet code. Thanks in advance.
Dave
Dave
HVAC Phil
Well-known member
Pipe too close to the window, too close to the back wall of main house. Pipe should extend above main house roofline if exiting that close. Needs to be a foot above peak unless pipe is greater than 10' from peak (horizontally). Pipe should also have a clean out tee before the heater when vented vertically.
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MN Falcon
Well-known member
Phil, what do you think of my install (I know I still have to put vents in the eaves -- but besides that)?
Thanks
Thanks
HVAC Phil
Well-known member
Phil, what do you think of my install (I know I still have to put vents in the eaves -- but besides that)?
Thanks
Looks like a clean install, but.... put a dirt leg in the gas line. You really didn't need the tee cleanout venting horizontally, but won't hurt a thing. Install a drip leg and you are good to go. Also, secure the electrical bx cable. I can't see it, but make sure to include a shut-off switch at the heater for servicing.
MN Falcon
Well-known member
Thanks Phil. I did have it inspected by the city as well, there are a few things I really do get inspected for insurance reasons. Figure if I screwed up and the city OKed it there isn't much the insurance company can say. If I don't get it inspected and something happens, the battle will be a lot harder. The city actually did ask for the tee in the vent to prevent condensate from directly going back into the heater, for this model heater IIRC they say for side venting 1/4" rise per foot for the vent so it still does slope back to the heater. The city also told me I had to be 1' past the eave, I would have hid the heater on the other side of the garage but the gas line run from the meter was just about maxed for the 1/2" copper. The inspector didn't mention the dirt leg, he seemed to be happy with what I had there, he was pleased that I did the black iron inside the garage.