Mr Heater Big Maxx 50000 btu heating issue

[Paultrish]

I just had a Big Maxx installed in my shop. It came with a natural gas to LP conversion kit...so it is now converted to propane. It worked fine for a week...now it outputs very little heat. I verified that I am getting gas to the unit...all burners light with no issue...blower fan comes on correctly....vent fan comes on correctly ...but there is very little heat coming out. For the past week, it would take approximately 15 min to heat my shop up from 8deg C to 19deg C. Now it will take approximately 1.5 hrs to go up 2 deg from wherever it is at at the time, as the heat coming out is very minimal...the air is basically cool blowing out.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Showkey]

What size propane tank is feeding the heater ?

 

[alcorelli]

Is the regulator freezing up, outside?

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[The Cobbler]

if you're using too small a tank, as the temp drops outside the LPG changing to vapour slows down , causing less pressure .
tank/ regs etc can also freeze up as already mentioned.
you did check the gas pressures on the unit to be sure it's within spec?

 

[carnutdallas]

All the above. My Buddy tried to do the same thing at his shop. Had to go to the biggest bottles/tanks and preheat tanks to get them to flow. He was not happy. Learned the hard way on propane and that heater demand when outside temps dropped. It never did worked right but the fix was biggest tank and some type of insulation and warming. Not sure of the safety or practically of that???


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[RiffTannen]

I'm having the same issue with my Big Maxx 50K, but I never had a good week with it! Garage never gets above 40 degrees. I've got a 100lb tank (just filled). Verified 11.5" WC line at the heater with the manometer. I can only get 8.5" of WC after the unit regulator. The adjustment screw maxes out. I'm at a loss and honestly ready to rip the thing out. I installed a second LP conversion kit thinking some of the parts might have been bad. Not it. Changed regulators twice, didn't help. I MAY need to get an adjustable regulator to get 13 or 14" of WC at the heater instead of 11.5. I'm tired of messing with it.

 

[Gizzi]

I'm having the same issue with my Big Maxx 50K, but I never had a good week with it! Garage never gets above 40 degrees. I've got a 100lb tank (just filled). Verified 11.5" WC line at the heater with the manometer. I can only get 8.5" of WC after the unit regulator. The adjustment screw maxes out. I'm at a loss and honestly ready to rip the thing out. I installed a second LP conversion kit thinking some of the parts might have been bad. Not it. Changed regulators twice, didn't help. I MAY need to get an adjustable regulator to get 13 or 14" of WC at the heater instead of 11.5. I'm tired of messing with it.

According to Mr Heater, with propane/LP, you need 13" WC to the INLET of the gas valve. After the gas valve (burner side/manifold) you should be at least 10.4" WC. Sounds like you may need a different regulator. Under fire the burner pressure should be at least 10.4" WC.

 

[Showkey]

Agree on the pressure check and regulator plus that vapor pressure and the ability to draw off the propane is going to change with the amount of propane in the tank and the temperature of the tank.

 

[TractorJeff]

I live on the South East part of Wisconsin and ran 100lb tanks for the past 2 winters. I never experienced a problem with running them down to Empty though I tried not to. The feed length was a total of 20 feet. Also these tanks sat outside in all temperatures.
I switched to a 120 gallon tank strictly over the cost issue of getting 100lb tanks filled.

 

[Plump]

I live on the South East part of Wisconsin and ran 100lb tanks for the past 2 winters. I never experienced a problem with running them down to Empty though I tried not to. The feed length was a total of 20 feet. Also these tanks sat outside in all temperatures.
I switched to a 120 gallon tank strictly over the cost issue of getting 100lb tanks filled.

I'm planning on running two 100 lb tanks installed together to try and avoid the temperature/pressure drop issue. 50,000 btu Big Maxx. I had minor problems when I ran a single tank, getting empty, in really cold temperatures when I had a ventless. Hoping to avoid that going forward.

TractorJeff, where did you get your 120 gallon? I'm just north of you!

 

[TractorJeff]

Milton Propane!
A friend of mine in Palmyra uses them. He pre-buys during the summer around 1.19/1.29 a gallon. I got it installed early October, the 2nd fill was end of December at 1.69 a gallon.
If you are going to stick to 100 pounders, I am going to sell mine as they are only 2 years old and one is 1/2 full.

 

[emerickkish]

I also installed a Big Max heater 80k btu. About ready to get rid of it. I converted it to propane with the correct kit. I am running off the house propane. Have 14 in w.c. to the regulator but after burners fire I only have 3 in w.c. on the burner side. Tried to adjust the pressure but nothing happens. Talked to Enerco and they sent me a new control valve but exactly the same situation. This is in a two car garage. After two hours running the temp might have gone up a couple degrees. I am out of ideas and patience at this point.

 

[D45]

Two car garage and 80k btu?

 

[emerickkish]

yeah. I know it's overkill but no matter. I can get more heat from a hair dryer than this heater.

 

[emerickkish]

yeah. I know it's overkill but no matter. I can get more heat from a hair dryer

 

[gmcgeo]

yeah, we need to know the tank size here..... i hope its not a grill bottle

 

[emerickkish]

I'm connected to my house service. 1000lb tank. Using 1/2 inch black pipe abut 30 ft from where service enters my house

 

[gmcgeo]

I'm connected to my house service. 1000lb tank. Using 1/2 inch black pipe abut 30 ft from where service enters my house

At the tank what regulator do you have on it, at the building what regulator do you have

 

[gmcgeo]

if i had to pin point a problem going from 14 to 3 says your undersized on your gas line

 

[emerickkish]

not sure. will have to check. I do have a Mr. Heater 2 stage regulator at the heater. I'm getting 14 in w.c. to the control valve.

 

[gmcgeo]

not sure. will have to check. I do have a Mr. Heater 2 stage regulator at the heater. I'm getting 14 in w.c. to the control valve.

why do you have a two stage regulator at the heater??? what pressure are you suppling to that regulator ?

 

[emerickkish]

I don't have an answer about the 2 stage regulator. I'm not a hvac guy. I had a single stage regulator on previously and had the same situation. I did check the pressure to the regulator and got 20 jn. w.c. I am getting 14in. w.c. at the inlet side of the valve, After unit starts I am getting 3 in. w.c. on the burner side. Tried to adjust the pressure at the valve and get no response. After speaking to a rep from Enerco he sent me a new gas valve and I am getting the same result.

 

[gmcgeo]

I don't have an answer about the 2 stage regulator. I'm not a hvac guy. I had a single stage regulator on previously and had the same situation. I did check the pressure to the regulator and got 20 jn. w.c. I am getting 14in. w.c. at the inlet side of the valve, After unit starts I am getting 3 in. w.c. on the burner side. Tried to adjust the pressure at the valve and get no response. After speaking to a rep from Enerco he sent me a new gas valve and I am getting the same result.

its a gas line issue, 20 is to much. regulator should be set at 12.5. manifold pressure on that unit should be at 10".

Sounds like a line size issue still. regulator should be outside the building. unless its a maxitrol and you generally can not adjust those

 

[gmcgeo]

To fix your issue i need to know the following
Pressure to regulator
line size and how many feet....
what models are the regs.... all of them

it doesnt matter what the regulator tells you with out starting the heater, you need to know what the reg is saying after unit starts..... if it drops to 3 from the reg then you have a gas line issue

 

[emerickkish]

ok. Appreciate your help. I'll get the info and get back to you

 

[PoorUB]

I just had a Big Maxx installed in my shop. It came with a natural gas to LP conversion kit...so it is now converted to propane. It worked fine for a week...now it outputs very little heat. I verified that I am getting gas to the unit...all burners light with no issue...blower fan comes on correctly....vent fan comes on correctly ...but there is very little heat coming out. For the past week, it would take approximately 15 min to heat my shop up from 8deg C to 19deg C. Now it will take approximately 1.5 hrs to go up 2 deg from wherever it is at at the time, as the heat coming out is very minimal...the air is basically cool blowing out.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

I'm having the same issue with my Big Maxx 50K, but I never had a good week with it! Garage never gets above 40 degrees. I've got a 100lb tank (just filled). Verified 11.5" WC line at the heater with the manometer. I can only get 8.5" of WC after the unit regulator. The adjustment screw maxes out. I'm at a loss and honestly ready to rip the thing out. I installed a second LP conversion kit thinking some of the parts might have been bad. Not it. Changed regulators twice, didn't help. I MAY need to get an adjustable regulator to get 13 or 14" of WC at the heater instead of 11.5. I'm tired of messing with it.

I also installed a Big Max heater 80k btu. About ready to get rid of it. I converted it to propane with the correct kit. I am running off the house propane. Have 14 in w.c. to the regulator but after burners fire I only have 3 in w.c. on the burner side. Tried to adjust the pressure but nothing happens. Talked to Enerco and they sent me a new control valve but exactly the same situation. This is in a two car garage. After two hours running the temp might have gone up a couple degrees. I am out of ideas and patience at this point.

Did you guys check gas pressure while the unit is running? The tank can be almost empty and still give you a static pressure with the unit off.

I would check gas pressure before and after the gas valve with the unit running. good chance the gas piping is too small, the tank doesn't vaporize fast enough or some other reason.

I have seen it a lot over the years where a homeowner does an install that does not work and the gas supply is inadequate.

 

[Showkey]

Think GJ had another thread along these same lines…….no or low pressure during fire, think in that case there was water in the supply line allowing pressure to build but not adequate flow during fire.

 

[Jackfre]

I’ve often times, when faced with gas issues and everyone not wanting to acknowledge the lines as a possible, problem disconnected the propane tank or better yet roll another cylinder into the area of the heating unit and run a gas connection tied into the drip leg. Isolate the original line with the gas valve and see if the unit fires up and runs.

 

[gmcgeo]

you can easily not do more work by adding a tank, just with simple testing

 

[PoorUB]

I’ve often times, when faced with gas issues and everyone not wanting to acknowledge the lines as a possible, problem disconnected the propane tank or better yet roll another cylinder into the area of the heating unit and run a gas connection tied into the drip leg. Isolate the original line with the gas valve and see if the unit fires up and runs.

Seems like a lot of work when a simple pressure test will answer the question.

 

[Jackfre]

True, but it is amazing how folks will fight over an issue. You can throw all the instrumentation in the world at a problem, but making the unit work either proves or disproves your point

 

[gmcgeo]

True, but it is amazing how folks will fight over an issue. You can throw all the instrumentation in the world at a problem, but making the unit work either proves or disproves your point

Technician vs parts changer

 

[PoorUB]

True, but it is amazing how folks will fight over an issue. You can throw all the instrumentation in the world at a problem, but making the unit work either proves or disproves your point

So you would rather drag in a second LPG tank, hose, pipe adapters, than remove the cap from the drip leg, pull and adapter out of the tool bag and hook up a manometer? Then you still don't know what the problem was other than runs on the tank you have. At that point you are assuming you have a fuel delivery issue, you haven't proven it.

 

[Jackfre]

What I have proven when the piece of equipment runs on a different gas supply is that the equipment is operational and that the gas supply or piping is not up to spec. I represented gas equipment manuf. I was rarely called out to see a well installed and operating piece of equipment but I got calls on a lot of catastrophes. Frustration mounts in a hurry when Mrs Magillicuddy’s new tankless isn’t doing its thing. Calls to tech service aren’t solving the problem, but seem to indicate a problem with the gas supply. Manometers, multiples, and the propane company isn’t have it that it is a gas supply issue. The factory and I are convinced it is not the equipment. The gas company isn’t having that either. As the Rep on site I’m in a fix. Also, covering a six state area when I went on the road I had my Yukon XL’s loaded. I did the tech training for the distributors, contractors and gas companies and had equipment, regulators and a 20# tank in the truck. Yes, I would connect my gas supply to the drip leg and see if the unit worked. When it worked the conversation with the propane company became easier. If it didn’t work, the conversation with the factory about a replacement unit was much easier. Does this replace a manometer? Of course not, but it is any port in a storm and over 25 yrs in that business I pinpointed (proved) a problem with a separate known gas supply.

 

[Chetter]

I have a 45,000 btu propane Big Maxx heater that has been heating my 3 1/2 car garage since 2008. I use 2-40lb tanks with an Rv auto switching regulator and they are kept in a 3-sided lean to help keep as much weather off as possible and yes, when it got down to low teens or single digits or worse, tank would freeze up and I could never get close to running a tank near empty. About 3 years ago I found a bottle heater for propane tanks that wraps around the bottle and is thermostatically controlled to 90* and will shut off if need be and when I started using it my freezing issues went away. I heat my garage 24/7 at 44* to keep things from freezing and tools from rusting. I run an industrial ceiling fan 24/7 to keep air moving and I even use a low temp dehumidifier. If I go into the garage to work or play, I turn temp up to 60-64* and heats within a 1/2 hour or so and shuts down. My garage is well insulated as well as my doors and seals all in effort to keep cold air out and heat in. I live here in northern Ohio and so far, this winter I have only filled 2 bottles almost 3. I did turn my temp down 42* this year since I had back surgery and cannot lift the bottles into my truck and rely on my neighbor to help me with the bottles, so I turned temp down to see how much longer a bottle would last. I have been completely happy with heater.

 

[PoorUB]

What I have proven when the piece of equipment runs on a different gas supply is that the equipment is operational and that the gas supply or piping is not up to spec. I represented gas equipment manuf. I was rarely called out to see a well installed and operating piece of equipment but I got calls on a lot of catastrophes. Frustration mounts in a hurry when Mrs Magillicuddy’s new tankless isn’t doing its thing. Calls to tech service aren’t solving the problem, but seem to indicate a problem with the gas supply. Manometers, multiples, and the propane company isn’t have it that it is a gas supply issue. The factory and I are convinced it is not the equipment. The gas company isn’t having that either. As the Rep on site I’m in a fix. Also, covering a six state area when I went on the road I had my Yukon XL’s loaded. I did the tech training for the distributors, contractors and gas companies and had equipment, regulators and a 20# tank in the truck. Yes, I would connect my gas supply to the drip leg and see if the unit worked. When it worked the conversation with the propane company became easier. If it didn’t work, the conversation with the factory about a replacement unit was much easier. Does this replace a manometer? Of course not, but it is any port in a storm and over 25 yrs in that business I pinpointed (proved) a problem with a separate known gas supply.

Well, you obviously have the experience.
I was an HVAC service tech for 12 years, then in wholesales HVAC sales for 10 more and was responsible to help contractors solve problems. I never hooked up a tank to a furnace or heater to prove it was the gas supply. I just hooked up my manometer and if the gas pressure did not maintain the supply needed to be repaired or resized. Not once did it occur to me to bring in a LPG tank into a home or shop to prove the supply was faulty, but then a lot of the equipment I worked on wouldn't run on a half dozen barbecue sized tanks at one time!

 

[Jackfre]

Troubleshooting is a real adventure. You want it to only be the equipment, but “we” get in the way

 

[gmcgeo]

What I have proven when the piece of equipment runs on a different gas supply is that the equipment is operational and that the gas supply or piping is not up to spec. I represented gas equipment manuf. I was rarely called out to see a well installed and operating piece of equipment but I got calls on a lot of catastrophes. Frustration mounts in a hurry when Mrs Magillicuddy’s new tankless isn’t doing its thing. Calls to tech service aren’t solving the problem, but seem to indicate a problem with the gas supply. Manometers, multiples, and the propane company isn’t have it that it is a gas supply issue. The factory and I are convinced it is not the equipment. The gas company isn’t having that either. As the Rep on site I’m in a fix. Also, covering a six state area when I went on the road I had my Yukon XL’s loaded. I did the tech training for the distributors, contractors and gas companies and had equipment, regulators and a 20# tank in the truck. Yes, I would connect my gas supply to the drip leg and see if the unit worked. When it worked the conversation with the propane company became easier. If it didn’t work, the conversation with the factory about a replacement unit was much easier. Does this replace a manometer? Of course not, but it is any port in a storm and over 25 yrs in that business I pinpointed (proved) a problem with a separate known gas supply.

sounds like you need a new gas company

 

[gmcgeo]

Troubleshooting is a real adventure. You want it to only be the equipment, but “we” get in the way

There was times when we had generator companies selling small tanks to run off of 100# tanks. customer would always call us saying "our" propane is bad. lol.... i tried to explain to them 300k btu can not run off a 100# tank.. They would tell me. " well then why did a generator company sell it to me?" we are always the bad guy

 

[Showkey]

Troubleshooting is a real adventure. You want it to only be the equipment, but “we” get in the way

Part of auto manufacturing field engineering team.

1 New vehicle towed in no start, remote dealer Location
2 Dealer did “everything“.
3 Phone tech support for hours $$$, many parts changed$$$, they told and verified to checked the fuel at least 5 times. Told to swap fuel or use alternate fuel source. They said they did….?????

4. Team travels, $$$$$, they are there 10 minutes, sample the fuel, pour 8 oz shop floor lite witha match it barely burns. Its about 75% Diesel fuel in gas engine.


Troubleshooting is challenging when critical items are not checked and verified early on in the process, the involved people rarely want to question or unable to verify their own work. I