Mr. Heater big maxx 80,000btu install

[hondaman263]

Just got my mr. heater big maxx natural gas heater in, going to install it this weekend, doing a horizontal vent.

I have gas well on my property and there are already gas lines ran to the inside of my garage so my garage should be nice and toasty now. There is also an upstairs and there is no drywall yet, just insulation on the walls of the bottom so the upstairs is open to the bottom.

I want to put it on an angle in the corner. What am i looking to have to do as far as electrical, running the gas line and venting and hanging it? (I know that's pretty much the full install ) I know there is codes and stuff that need to be followed but i am not sure exactly how to do this and really don't want to pay someone to install it. Im guessing i can just buy venting pipe at lowes to use, run it to a breaker and get 4ft of 4in pipe and a 45 and run it out the back wall. Just want to know what y'all have done and how its worked out for you!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[rponfick]

Hondaman, be very careful using untreated gas directly from a gas well. I worked over 30 years in the oil/gas industry and had to deal with issues of "free use of gas" provisions in old lease forms.

I'm sure you are probably aware that unless mercaptan has been added to the gas, you will not be able to smell any leaks. Also, the BTU content of raw gas can be all over the map. I have seen pots melted on stoves because of using high BTU gas (which would also not be good for your heater). The utility companys usually have to dilute raw gas to get it to a usable level.

You may be familiar with these issues, but I thought I would just mention them again for the unfamiliar.

Ralph

 

[hondaman263]

Thanks ralph, the gas well has been on the property since the early 1900's and it does have a smell if it leaks so i guess mercaptan has been added. Right now it runs everything possible in my house, dryer, stove, oven, water heater, furnace, small radiant heater in the garage, etc. so i don't suspect it to be a problem with the new heater. Everything else was installed by a local business and i would have them install the new heater its just that a quick google search yielded a couple threads on here about it so i figured i would install it myself and save some money in the process.

 

[Herb67SS]

i figured i would install it myself and save some money in the process.

No reason you couldn't hang it, run the electric to it, and buy the materials for the gas install. But I'd find a local installer who would do the final hook ups of the fuel and vent. Reason is, while you may think you are saving money, those things require both special tools and skills you may not have. Do you have a manometer to check supply pressure? Are you comfortable threading pipe or fitting it? Are you comfortable cutting the vent pipe hole thru your roof or wall? Then there's the the fact the insurance company will not ever pay you squat for any fire damage if you did the install and they find one code violation. So a guy that does this for a living, has a good reputation, and will do the final hook up and inspect your work too is a small price to pay and a major savings.

I'm an electrical engineer and been doing my own wiring for nearly 50 yrs but I still have a licensed electrician do the final hook up on anything major. He inspects all the work I did and gives me a written invoice for the final work for my records. It's usually ten per cent of what the cost of the total would have been for him or another to do the whole thing and I'm protected from the loss of insurance due to "home owner" error caused the fire.

Just a thought.

BTW- major is the 150ft of 2 in conduit and 4conductors of single 0 I just ran to my new garage. I buried the conduit and pulled the cable, electrician tied it in on my homer owner permit. Passed inspection and, it's legal ;-)

 

[nwav8tor]

... Im guessing i can just buy venting pipe at lowes to use, run it to a breaker and get 4ft of 4in pipe and a 45 and run it out the back wall. Just want to know what y'all have done and how its worked out for you!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Run venting pipe to a breaker??? Hopefully that was a typo or editing problem, otherwise you really don't seem sure what you need to do and I'd recommend a professional install.

In addition to what Ralph posted, here are some other considerations:

Electric should be a dedicated circuit and a means to disconnect power should be provided (switch or c/b that's in sight of the heater).

Horizontal vent run needs the proper rise angle (not just completely horizontally level) and you should have a collar to go thru the wall and provide the proper clearance from the insulation. B-pipe might also be required through the wall. Minimum and maximum vent run lengths must be adhered to as well as termination requirements as they relate to eave overhangs and attic vents.

Plan for a gas supply line shutoff valve and drip leg after the appliance connector tap off.

Good Luck
Paul

 

[hondaman263]

Haha that was a typo, I know the basics about having the vent line rise 1 inch for every 4 feet and having a switch in the wire for emergency shut off.
Just confused what the heck a "B" pipe is and if its any different than the pipe i have pictured in my head that they sell at lowes. (Northern tool had a vent kit but for $300+??, no way)

I didn't realize all of the codes that have to be followed! I'm having an electrician come to the house in a few weeks so i might as well have him finish up the final wiring on the heater. Actually had a guy repair the well head a few months ago that works for a gas well company, maybe he can recommend how to hook up the gas line.

 

[DPelletier]

B vent is a UL listed double wall gas vent pipe. It is the pipe commonly used to vent residential natural draft gas appliances.

Check your manual before purchasing or installing venting and it'd would also be useful to check local codes and/or your gas inspection branch.

http://www.mrheater.com/upload/newsletter/MHU_HSU_CUH_60016_BL.pdf

Not all single wall pipe you can buy at your local building supply store is suitable even if single wall is permitted. Code is minimum 26ga galvanized here.

I would recommend having a professional(s) oversee the gas pipe and venting install at the very least and I would have someone qualified perform a start up (as per the installation instruction manual) to make sure everything is right and it's firing properly.

2 pennies,
Dave

 

[hondaman263]

looks like i'll just buy the supplies and have someone licensed install it. I'll post some pictures when its finished!

 

[nwav8tor]

Check with your manual and/or call Mr Heater about this...

I seem to remember reading something recently about Mr Heater now requiring STAINLESS STEEL vent pipe for horizontal venting installations...

Paul

 

[dave67fd]

There is a reason the vent kit is expensive. You can no longer use single wall pipe for a cat. III heaters. You also can't get B-vent at your local box stores either. You won't need all the pipe in the kit per code and can get it abit cheaper but still pricey.

Your local codes take juristiction but in absence of those you need to follow your manual.

This was taken from your manual.

C – HORIZONTAL VENTING – GENERAL
Due to changes to Z83-8 2009 CSA2.6-2009, the use of single
wall B-Vent is no longer permitted as an acceptable material
when venting horizontally, this change covers both residential
and commercial installations. All horizontally vented units
manufactured after July of 2011 must be vented as a Caterory
III Unit/Utility Heater in compliance with UL 1738 & ULS636.
Common venting is not allowed when horizontally venting the unit
heater.

The minimum horizontal vent length is three feet (914mm).
1. If possible, do not terminate the horizontal vent through a
wall that is exposed to prevailing wind. Exposure to excessive
winds can affect unit performance.
2. Vent termination must be free from obstructions and at least
12” (306mm) above grade level and maximum snow height.
3. Do not terminate vent directly below roof eaves or above
a walkway, or any other area where condensate dripping
may be troublesome and may cause some staining. Avoid
windows where steam may cause fogging or ice buildup.
4. When horizontally vented, minimum clearance for termination
from any door, window, gravity air inlet, gas or electric
meter, regulators, and relief equipment is 4 ft. (1.2m) for U.S.
installations. Refer to NFPA 54/ANSI Z223.1 in the U.S.A. and
CSA B149.1 Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code and
.2 in Canada or with authorities having local jurisdiction. In
Canada, vent termination must have a minimum 6 ft. (1.8
m) horizontal clearance from gas and electric meters and
relief devices as specified in the Canadian B149.1, Natural Gas
Installation Code.

 

[hondaman263]

There is a reason the vent kit is expensive. You can no longer use single wall pipe for a cat. III heaters. You also can't get B-vent at your local box stores either. You won't need all the pipe in the kit per code and can get it abit cheaper but still pricey.

I was gonna say you can use single wall vent pipe but that was for the mhu75ng model.

Anyone know where the B vent pipe can be purchased? I'm gonna have an electrician wire it and another hook up the gas lines. Figured I might as well mount it and run the vent line since its pretty straight forward.

 

[nwav8tor]

There is a reason the vent kit is expensive. You can no longer use single wall pipe for a cat. III heaters. You also can't get B-vent at your local box stores either. You won't need all the pipe in the kit per code and can get it abit cheaper but still pricey.

Your local codes take juristiction but in absence of those you need to follow your manual.

This was taken from your manual.

C – HORIZONTAL VENTING – GENERAL
Due to changes to Z83-8 2009 CSA2.6-2009, the use of single
wall B-Vent is no longer permitted as an acceptable material
when venting horizontally, this change covers both residential
and commercial installations. All horizontally vented units
manufactured after July of 2011 must be vented as a Caterory
III Unit/Utility Heater in compliance with UL 1738 & ULS636.
Common venting is not allowed when horizontally venting the unit
heater.

The minimum horizontal vent length is three feet (914mm).
1. If possible, do not terminate the horizontal vent through a
wall that is exposed to prevailing wind. Exposure to excessive
winds can affect unit performance.
2. Vent termination must be free from obstructions and at least
12” (306mm) above grade level and maximum snow height.
3. Do not terminate vent directly below roof eaves or above
a walkway, or any other area where condensate dripping
may be troublesome and may cause some staining. Avoid
windows where steam may cause fogging or ice buildup.
4. When horizontally vented, minimum clearance for termination
from any door, window, gravity air inlet, gas or electric
meter, regulators, and relief equipment is 4 ft. (1.2m) for U.S.
installations. Refer to NFPA 54/ANSI Z223.1 in the U.S.A. and
CSA B149.1 Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code and
.2 in Canada or with authorities having local jurisdiction. In
Canada, vent termination must have a minimum 6 ft. (1.8
m) horizontal clearance from gas and electric meters and
relief devices as specified in the Canadian B149.1, Natural Gas
Installation Code.

Now I'm confused... I thought that B-vent was , by definition, not single wall pipe. So what does this prohibition mean:

Due to changes to Z83-8 2009 CSA2.6-2009, the use of single
wall B-Vent is no longer permitted as an acceptable material
when venting horizontally, this change covers both residential
and commercial installations.

???

Paul

 

[toyotadriver]

I can buy B vent in any local hardware or big box store. They stock all the sizes.

Unless your jurisdiction prohibits you from installing it yourself, there is no reason that a handy person can't install it themselves.

 

[DPelletier]

Youre right, b vent is double wall. Id guess that there is an error in the wording of that document


Dave

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Not sure if its the same, but at lowes today I saw that they had 3" double walled exhaust pipe. 28 bucks for a 3' section.

 

[nwav8tor]

Not sure if its the same, but at lowes today I saw that they had 3" double walled exhaust pipe. 28 bucks for a 3' section.

$28 for a 3' section seems rather pricey in my book. That might be a special type of vent for a pellet stove. Home Depot has a 4' section of 3" B-vent for $17.

Paul

 

[hondaman263]

Called Home depot and lowes, not very willing to check for the parts i need. Just a yeah we got it or a simple no. When i get home from college i'll just go to a specialty store that i get a company discount on. I'll post pics of the install before christmas.