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Mr. Heater Big Maxx 80000 BTU Install

LIFTED

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After a year of insulation falling on me, I finally got all the OSB up on the walls and a metal corrugated ceiling hung.

I currently run an old furnace for heat off kerosene.
It works well, but takes up too much floor space in my 21’ x 39’ garage.

So I broke down and bought a Mr. Heater Big Maxx 80000 BTU from Northern Tool on Black Friday.

Last weekend I managed to manhandle the unit up and get it lagged to the trusses.

It is going to be vented horizontally- so I am planning to use 4” SS cat 3 single wall.

Got the 100# propane tank filled today, still a lot of work to do on the install in terms of venting and pipe routing.

Does anybody have a recommendation on a LP regulator?
 
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TractorJeff

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A 100lb lasts about a month on a 50k Big Max if used sparingly.
I keep it around 45/47 when I am not out there.
Regulators are available at Central Tractor.
I assume you have one nearby?
Home Depot and Lowes carry them also.
 

Natty Bumppo

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I am doing the same thing right now. Just got my 80000 heater hung 2 days ago and am venting with 4" Cat. III stainless single wall. Going to work on that tomorrow. I have two 100 lb. tanks and am going with an automatic switch over regulator.
 
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Natty - where did you purchase your SS venting?

After what Showkey posted above, I may go with another 100# tank.
Do you have a link for the automatic regulator?
 
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dfiler2

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I am doing the same thing right now. Just got my 80000 heater hung 2 days ago and am venting with 4" Cat. III stainless single wall. Going to work on that tomorrow. I have two 100 lb. tanks and am going with an automatic switch over regulator.

You still need a regulator, unless your switch has one built in. If you are in area's where it gets below zero for periods of time, I would use a two stage regulator, it will save you lots of frustration when it's really cold out.

Unless what you meant was having your switch then the regulator.
 
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Natty Bumppo

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Natty - where did you purchase your SS venting?

After what Showkey posted above, I may go with another 100# tank.
Do you have a link for the automatic regulator?

I had a tough time finding it locally. All of the heating, cooling, and plumbing places nearby only stock the B vent, which no longer meets code for horizontal runs. Even Northern Tool offers a horizontal kit which by the looks of it is also B vent. I researched online suppliers and eventually ordered mine from Menards. Not cheap...but shipping was reasonable and it got here in 2 days. I got the Saf-T-Vent by Heat Fab. It's interlocking and has the built in gaskets.

The nice thing about 2 tanks and an auto-switch over regulator is that when one of them kicks you won't be left without heat until you get the tank refilled.

I am doing the install and black pipe and venting myself, but I do have a friend who is a licensed HVAC guy who is doing the final connect to my tanks and inspection before we fire it up. He found a regulator for me, so I don't really know what he's using.
 

Natty Bumppo

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You still need a regulator, unless your switch has one built in. If you are in area's where it gets below zero for periods of time, I would use a two stage regulator, it will save you lots of frustration when it's really cold out.

Unless what you meant was having your switch then the regulator.

Thanks for the response. I will certainly be sure it's a two stage, as I do live in a very cold area. Did not know that.

I have a friend who is a licensed HVAC guy who found the regulator for me. I'll be sure to ask him what it is.
 
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Thanks, yes - I was looking at Supplyhose.com, the SS stuff is not cheap.

I plan to use 1/2" pipe for the propane - I only have about 6ft from the tank to the unit.
 

TractorJeff

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FWIW: I used 3/4 Black going through the wall from the tank outside, then up and 2 feet left to get behind the heater. I figured the larger pipe would allow the propane to warm more before it gets to the Heater.
 

Showkey

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The vapor pressure is determined by the tank temperature and % full/empty, not the line or pipe temperature or size.
Low levels and low temperature the propane never leaves the tank.
 
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Got the old furnace out, the electrical done, and the exhaust buttoned up.

This is what I am thinking for the propane plumbing minus the fittings:

Heater > Union > Ball Valve > Yellow Flex Line > Drip leg (teed) > Black Pipe Thru wall > Rubber Flex Line ???? > Regulator > 100# Tank.

I have everything but the Rubber Flex line.
You are not supposed to use the Yellow Flex line outdoors - correct?
I need maybe a foot of rubber line from the hard line to the regulator.
Does anybody have a good source for this?
 
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toyotadriver

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I wouldn't use rubber line outdoors for a permanent install. Rubber will break down under UV rays. It'll last awhile but it'll fail before metal lines will.
 
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Plumbing and exhaust, ordered a rubber hose to finish it off,
 

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TractorJeff

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Update on Consumption: After 24 days of Holiday events (no shop time) I checked the 100lb Tank today and it was empty. It was still around 45 degrees so I am guessing it went empty sometime today.
 
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All done,
It's been heating for about 10 minutes now.
Seems to smell a little - I am thinking this is normal for the first fire up.
 

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  • BIG MAXX DONE - OUTSIDE.jpg
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TractorJeff

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Yes, in the Manual it states it will smell the first time!
Awesome being warm when you have been cold for a long time!
 

toyotadriver

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The first time you fire it up new it'll smell a little as it burns off oils. It's ok. You might see a little smoke too.
 

Natty Bumppo

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Looks great lifted. I finished mine last night too. Got it fired up and adjusted. I had some smoke and fumes in the barn for a few hours.
 

Luke_L

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Interested in this. I've been toying with adding the 50,000 BTU version in my 2.5 car. How did you attach the vent pipe to the roof?
 
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Ha, I had something that worked perfectly in my scrap metal bin.

It was off an old soda carbonator - basically a SS formed angle with a SS strap.
 
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