Mr Heater Big Maxx install

[lukeembry123]

I'm in the process of installing a 50k unit in my shop, I'm limited to 1 place to hang it which has made it difficult to do. I'll add pics so you can see how I'm doing it so let me know if you see issues. I'm venting with class b 3" vertical with a 6" pipe thru the drywall for a thimble. Notice how I've cut back the b class elbow so I can screw it to the unit. Thoughts on that? Should I seal the pipe where I've cut the outer layer or leave it be? Thanks for any help on my first post. Luke.

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[D45]

You need a draft hood to connect the b vent to the heater, right?

Why did you use the union ontop before the elbow and not a short ******?

Do you have a valve before the flex line?

 

[SuperD]

Not sure what your code requirements are there, but in Canada we use the B149.1 gas standard. Going by that B149.1 you cannot modify the B vent material. You need to meet the clearance of 18 inches for access to the service panel on your furnace. The Big Max is a induced fan, therefore no draft hood is used. Your B vent only needs 1 inch clearance. You cannot use the street elbow and you need a fuel shut-off within 2 feet of the appliance. Have a look in your owner's manual, it details most of this, or download an owners manual if you do not have one.

 

[lukeembry123]

You need a draft hood to connect the b vent to the heater, right?

Why did you use the union ontop before the elbow and not a short ******?

Do you have a valve before the flex line?

I used the union so I can take it apart if needed, there isn't a flex line, the yellow line is a stainless coated line that runs about 10' in the attic to the black pipe. no idea what a draft hood is

 

[lukeembry123]

Not sure what your code requirements are there, but in Canada we use the B149.1 gas standard. Going by that B149.1 you cannot modify the B vent material. You need to meet the clearance of 18 inches for access to the service panel on your furnace. The Big Max is a induced fan, therefore no draft hood is used. Your B vent only needs 1 inch clearance. You cannot use the street elbow and you need a fuel shut-off within 2 feet of the appliance. Have a look in your owner's manual, it details most of this, or download an owners manual if you do not have one.

I live in Ky, there isn't any code for this stuff around here. I don't have anywhere to mount the heater to get the 18" so that's why I'm doing it this way. I have a main fuel shut off right outside my door so I didn't bother with the small valve up top. when you say street elbow are you talking about the 1/2" 90? the owners manual is very poor for a big maxx, its not very clear for the average guy to install venting.

 

[ratdoggy]

3" Draft hood same as I just used...
Connected the heater to the B vent
https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/gas-appliance-venting/amerivent-reg-3-vent-draft-hood-class-b-vent/3edc/p-1444432086867-c-9462.htm?tid=-8607725427797210395&ipos=1

 

[D45]

I also think you need a 12" straight run in the vent, before the elbow

 

[lukeembry123]

I also think you need a 12" straight run in the vent, before the elbow

Any reason why you say that? I cant find any info that explains why thanks for the suggestions

 

[D45]

What my venting install instructions said, for my 75k Hot Dawg

3" b-vent kit from Duravent

 

[D45]

 

[dave*99]

The heater is too close to the corner of the room. That will limit air circulation and it makes it tough to open the access panel to service the heater.
You should put a gas shut off valve near the heater upstream of the drip leg. You should also have a wall switch in the 120V power to the heater. Put a red cover on it marked gas burner emergency switch.

 

[lukeembry123]

those are nice instructions, Mr Heater I-sheet doesn't show anything like that or much at all. thanks for posting

 

[lukeembry123]

There's a lot of room behind the heater, I-sheet says keep 18", I'll measure but id guess I have 36". Are you talking about the side panels as the access panel? Main shut off is right outside the door so I didn't bother with one up top. is the wall switch code for where you live? No code here for anything much, I have a dedicated breaker inside the box right under it. thanks for the comments

The heater is too close to the corner of the room. That will limit air circulation and it makes it tough to open the access panel to service the heater.
You should put a gas shut off valve near the heater upstream of the drip leg. You should also have a wall switch in the 120V power to the heater. Put a red cover on it marked gas burner emergency switch.

 

[dave*99]

Access to side panel is important.
A separate valve for each gas appliance is important. Do you really want to shut down the whole house to service an appliance?
The power shut off is an emergency item that can be seen and used by anybody. No need for a family member to find a breaker in the panel should the need arise.
Is there more CSST (yellow gas pipe) in your house? Is it properly bonded to the electrical system?
Code or not these are the usual items and precautions.

 

[lukeembry123]

Access to side panel is important.
A separate valve for each gas appliance is important. Do you really want to shut down the whole house to service an appliance?
The power shut off is an emergency item that can be seen and used by anybody. No need for a family member to find a breaker in the panel should the need arise.
Is there more CSST (yellow gas pipe) in your house? Is it properly bonded to the electrical system?
Code or not these are the usual items and precautions.

No problem getting in the side panels, pics make it look closer than it is. This is a detached garage so nothing else is hooked to the gas, house is all separate. I used about 5-6' of the csst, I'll be grounding it over the weekend.

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