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mr heater/hot dawg

RAMBIN

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Jan 5, 2006
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133
Location
canada
im insulating the garage right now and b4 i completly fill it in im wondering what i should do to prepare for the future installation of a gas mr heater/hot dawg type unit.. i imagine they do require a power source on there own 15amp brkr? as far as the gas line should i run that through the attic? any other things i should think about? i dont wanna have to crawl through my insulation later. all other wiring is done.. i have 9'4 ceilings and would like to put the unit up as high as possible..is there any limit how close the exhaust can be to the outiside eave/sofit? 2ft overhang on the eave by the way...
 
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beetroot72

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Joined
Dec 4, 2006
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150
Location
McHenry, Illinois
im insulating the garage right now and b4 i completly fill it in im wondering what i should do to prepare for the future installation of a gas mr heater/hot dawg type unit.. i imagine they do require a power source on there own 15amp brkr? as far as the gas line should i run that through the attic? any other things i should think about? i dont wanna have to crawl through my insulation later. all other wiring is done.. i have 9'4 ceilings and would like to put the unit up as high as possible..is there any limit how close the exhaust can be to the outiside eave/sofit? 2ft overhang on the eave by the way...

A few things...

Vent it through the attic if at all possible. It is really easy and looks much nicer. It is a pain in the rear to make the siding look nice. There are many restrictions for Catagory III venting(horizontal)...(if you follow code) I can post detailed photos and instructions on how to go through the roof if you like.

Stay away from the Mr. Heater. It is a cheap unit...not worth saving a $100 bucks. Stick to a Modine Hot Dawg or a Dayton/Sterling model. They all mount within an inch of the ceiling.

Put the gas line anywhere you want. Use 3/4" or 1" black pipe if you are traveling a long way with it. Reduce it to 1/2" when you're close to the unit.

Just go ahead and insulate everywhere. You'll never know exactly where the venting will go until you mount/rough in the unit. I found some great suppliers and techniques when I did mine.

A 15 amp circuit with 14 AWG wire will suffice. I never run less then 20 amp/12 Awg line. It is worth it to me to have a little extra if you need it.

Let me know if you need anthing...


Jim
Illinois
 
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R

RAMBIN

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Jan 5, 2006
Messages
133
Location
canada
beetroot72 said:
A few things...

Vent it through the attic if at all possible. It is really easy and looks much nicer. It is a pain in the rear to make the siding look nice. There are many restrictions for Catagory III venting(horizontal)...(if you follow code) I can post detailed photos and instructions on how to go through the roof if you like.

Stay away from the Mr. Heater. It is a cheap unit...not worth saving a $100 bucks. Stick to a Modine Hot Dawg or a Dayton/Sterling model. They all mount within an inch of the ceiling.

Put the gas line anywhere you want. Use 3/4" or 1" black pipe if you are traveling a long way with it. Reduce it to 1/2" when you're close to the unit.

Just go ahead and insulate everywhere. You'll never know exactly where the venting will go until you mount/rough in the unit. I found some great suppliers and techniques when I did mine.

A 15 amp circuit with 14 AWG wire will suffice. I never run less then 20 amp/12 Awg line. It is worth it to me to have a little extra if you need it.

Let me know if you need anthing...


Jim
Illinois
so u dont think it would be easier to run the gas line over there b4 i insulate? i hate the idea of having to go up in the attic after theres insulation piled up...and if i vent into the attic where do i vent it out? under the eave? if i went through the siding it would be the side facing my neighbours garage...no one would ever see it,rather out of sight
 

ac45mike

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
6
Location
Gansevoort NY
I have a Hot Dawg 45000 btu and love it. I ran the gas line on the finished wall black iron pipe. It looks nice and I can access if needed. For a shop I wouldn't bury it in the wall. Mike
 

beetroot72

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Dec 4, 2006
Messages
150
Location
McHenry, Illinois
so u dont think it would be easier to run the gas line over there b4 i insulate? i hate the idea of having to go up in the attic after theres insulation piled up...and if i vent into the attic where do i vent it out? under the eave? if i went through the siding it would be the side facing my neighbours garage...no one would ever see it,rather out of sight

The gas line, sure, but where is it coming from? I'd just run it on the finished wall inside your garage....probably easier.

Vent through the roof! It's easy. Download the installation .PDF for the Hot dawg.....there are several venting scenarios. I believe you have to be 2 feet under the eave if you vent vertically, which probably means you'd have to mount the unit lower...check into that a little more.

Go straight out the back of the unit a foot, put a tee, cap the bottom(for a cleanout), then go straight up through the ceiling and the roof. There are supplies that are relatively cheap and make the job so easy. Although I had problems with them and ended up going elsewhere for my pipe, www.ventingpipe.com has all the info you need and Simpson Duravent B-Pipe which requires no screws...it twistlocks together.
B-pipe only requires 1 inch clearance to combustables.
I bought ... 1 four foot section, 1 two foot section, 1 one foot section, 1 tee and cap, 1 "ventfast" fire/support square, a roof flashing and a cap. only cost $130.00.

I'll post a few pics and if you like I can email the pdf install file and some other info/pics, etc
 

beetroot72

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Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
150
Location
McHenry, Illinois
beetroot72 said:
The gas line, sure, but where is it coming from? I'd just run it on the finished wall inside your garage....probably easier.

Vent through the roof! It's easy. Download the installation .PDF for the Hot dawg.....there are several venting scenarios. I believe you have to be 2 feet under the eave if you vent vertically, which probably means you'd have to mount the unit lower...check into that a little more.

Go straight out the back of the unit a foot, put a tee, cap the bottom(for a cleanout), then go straight up through the ceiling and the roof. There are supplies that are relatively cheap and make the job so easy. Although I had problems with them and ended up going elsewhere for my pipe, www.ventingpipe.com has all the info you need and Simpson Duravent B-Pipe which requires no screws...it twistlocks together.
B-pipe only requires 1 inch clearance to combustables.
I bought ... 1 four foot section, 1 two foot section, 1 one foot section, 1 tee and cap, 1 "ventfast" fire/support square, a roof flashing and a cap. only cost $130.00.

I'll post a few pics and if you like I can email the pdf install file and some other info/pics, etc

oh yeah here's some pics
 

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beetroot72

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Dec 4, 2006
Messages
150
Location
McHenry, Illinois
oldgoat said:
I'm looking at the heatstar made by enerco and sold through northern tool for my garage, but a 45000 btu unit. Is this the same as the Mr Heater? I like the size and weight of it and of course the price, but if it isn't a decent unit it isn't worth getting either.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200311445_200311445

Northern tool also sells Hamilton home products Heater....Which is the same as the Modine Hot dawg. They are on sale now but if you search for the Modine Hot dawg you should be able to find it for under $500.00
I paid $486.00 with shipping here http://www.gas-space-heater.com/modine-hot-dawg.html

I've delt with Modine personally...They are a First rate company and stand behind their products.:flamethro
 

Scott

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Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
139
Location
Bothell, WA
I am pretty sure Heatstar and Mr. Heater are the same unit. Lots of people have installed them on here and have had good luck. You just missed the sale on the 45k at Northern, I think it was ~$260. I would wait and watch the Northern sales, they usually have a couple sales now through spring. I paid ~$320 for my 45k last year and it has worked flawlessly so far.

Must be the same, share the same manual:
http://www.mrheater.com/upload/newsletter/60016_mhu_hsu_45_75.pdf
 
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fireman

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Dec 7, 2005
Messages
129
beetroot72 said:
Stay away from the Mr. Heater. It is a cheap unit...not worth saving a $100 bucks. Stick to a Modine Hot Dawg or a Dayton/Sterling model. They all mount within an inch of the ceiling.

If you set the two side by side, they are almost identicle and use the same quality of materials. My 75K Mr. Heater has worked perfectly for over a year. I have several friends with them that love them as well. The only difference between the two is that Modine spends more for advertising.
 

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,626
Location
Northeastern CT
I have a Mr. Heater, and a friend has the Modine Hot Dawg. They look alike, but they are not the same. Two entirely different manufacturers using different parts. Both are good, and I can't say that one is better than the other, but I can say that they are different on the inside.
 

beetroot72

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Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
150
Location
McHenry, Illinois
Fine...Lets get past which one is better and help this guy install which ever one he buys......

...Anyone have thoughts on Horizontal venting out the sidewall? I always thought it was for a garage or whatever with a room above preventing a vertical vent. If he mounts it on the ceiling the vent will come out less than 6 inches below the eave. What are the regulations?:willy_nil
 

Scott

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Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
139
Location
Bothell, WA
In the Mr. Heater instructions it does not say anything about clearance to the eve, but you need 4' from any kind of vent (soffit or otherwise) along with other restricitons, so if you have a soffit vent closer than 4', then you need to go vertical. Here is the link to my install, I need to update the pics, the garage is drywalled now. Read the mr. heater install instructions I posted above to get a feel for the venting restricitons. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2655&highlight=heater

I will get off my keaster and take pics of the final cleaned up install tomorrow.

Yea, run wire for both power (I put it on a switch too) and the thermostat before sealing it up.
 
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RAMBIN

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Jan 5, 2006
Messages
133
Location
canada
do all the diffent units us the same size wall collar and exhaust vent? i'd like to put that through if i can, not sure what unit im going for yet though..
 

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,626
Location
Northeastern CT
They all use the same size venting, but the venting location on each is different. I would pick the one that you want, and get the mounting instructions from the manufacturer in advance of purchase and hope that the unit is still available when you get ready to buy it.
 

russlaferrera

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Nov 24, 2006
Messages
2,035
Location
Central Virginia
so u dont think it would be easier to run the gas line over there b4 i insulate? i hate the idea of having to go up in the attic after theres insulation piled up...and if i vent into the attic where do i vent it out? under the eave? if i went through the siding it would be the side facing my neighbours garage...no one would ever see it,rather out of sight

My vote, is to put the gas pipe in before you insulate. Because it is easier to get the pipe where you want it and to check for leaks. If you get the pipe in the general area. A flex pipe will get you to the heater without grief.. My vote for vent is thru the roof, looks better IMHO. But both will work great...russ
 
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