Mr Heater Install Pics

[Chetter]

Well, I finished my heater install last week and I love it. I worked on it over the past month as money was available and got the heater started and running, it works great. It is the 45000 BTU LP Mr Heater Big Maxx unit from Northern Tool. I used the the 3" vertical vent kit along with 1/2" black pipe for the gas line. I bought a regulator kit for double tanks that automatically switches from the empty tank to the full one so I can take the empty one off line without turning the furnace off. I used a Honeywell t-stat that I took out my house when I replaced it with a programmable unit, so I took the old style out to the garage and it works perfectly.

 

[blairtruck]

i will get pics of mine tonight.

 

[Junkman]

A couple of questions about the install. It doesn't appear that you installed a drip leg in the gas piping. Is there one? Also, the shut off valve doesn't look like the type that is normally used for gas. Is it one that is specific for gas, or did you just purchase a threaded ball valve? Junk..

 

[blairtruck]

i didnt put a drip leg on mine either. consequences?

 

[dipper]

there's a drip leg on the main line coming in, as seen in the pics. That's probably sufficient; don't you think Junkman?

I think i remember reading somewhere that some of the nicer ball valves typically used for water and air are ok to use for propane (or nat gas).
I would've used a gas valve; but it probably works.

Great pics chetter and looks like you did a good job installing it.
I did the same last week too.

 

[dropride]

Do you guys shut off your tanks at night if not running or do you just leave them open all the time?

 

[larry4406]

Many of the valves are labeled "WOG" = Water, Oil, Gas

 

[Junkman]

I was taught a long time ago that the drip leg should be placed as close as possible to the appliance. Not being a plumber, I can't say definitively that what you did is right or wrong. For my heater, I put the drip leg just outside the rear of the case where the gas line enters the box. I used 1/2" steel piping, since it was required by code, since it is inside a garage. On the other side of the wall, it is copper tubing from the wall of the garage to the tank. I have a shut off on the steel pipe on the inside of the garage, where it comes through the wall, and another shut off that is mounted near the heater. That way, I can shut the gas off without getting a ladder out, and I can also shut off the gas if I am working on the heater. I didn't have an electrical outlet near the heater, so I used a long electrical cord and plug it into a outlet that is under the heater at eye level. This outlet is switched, so the heater can be turned off. I intend to put an outlet closer to the heater when I have the time, but it isn't high on my priority list right now. I am not certain as to what is required by code, but I will have that figured out when I get to it. I know that when I built the house in 1982, that for oil furnaces in the cellar, you have to have a shut off near the cellar steps or on the first floor, and another one on the furnace.

 

[Chetter]

A couple of questions about the install. It doesn't appear that you installed a drip leg in the gas piping. Is there one? Also, the shut off valve doesn't look like the type that is normally used for gas. Is it one that is specific for gas, or did you just purchase a threaded ball valve? Junk..

The drip leg is below the sutoff valve, and the valve is made for gas, both natural and propane, and recomended by a heating guy I talked to. As for the location it isn't far at all from the unit but yet is accessible without a ladder. I ran a dedicated run of 12-2 amoured cable to my fuse box and put it on its own circuit so that I can shut it off. As for me, I leave mine on 24/7 set at 48 degrees to keep my tools dry as well as my hot rod. The regulator i bought is for 2 tank setups used on mobile homes and campers which I have a rubber mat that covers the tops of the tanks and regulator to keep them dry. The thermostat is from my house when I pulled the manual t-stat out for a programmable unit, just had to buy the 18ga t-stat wire from Home Depot to hook it up. Thanks Dipper for the compliment, I do like this unit very much. I was making sure to do the job properly and safely as I don't need to have problems with this or burn my garage down.

 

[Uncle Buck]

So how long will both those bottles of fuel run 24/7 or do you simply use them when you are in the shop and turn them off the rest of the time?

 

[dropride]

I just got my heater going yesterday and dont know how i went without it. Been using a kerosene heater which took hours to raise the temp 20 deg. now it takes about 10 min.

 

[Chetter]

So how long will both those bottles of fuel run 24/7 or do you simply use them when you are in the shop and turn them off the rest of the time?

Good question, I'm working on my first month and I have to run this setup for a month to see what it takes to keep the furnace on 24/7 at 49 degrees. I will let you know what I find out, but I am hoping it's not too bad. This is why I went the propane route versus the natural gas, to keep it seperate from my house so I could monitor usage and cost.

 

[Junkman]

Around here, the natural gas is a lot less expensive than propane. If it were mine, I would have just used the natural gas, and purchased a separate meter to put on the line. When I owned a 2 family home, there was only one meter, and there as a private meter on the second floor apartment gas line. Subtracted the reading from the private meter from the gas company reading, and knew how much they were using.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Good question, I'm working on my first month and I have to run this setup for a month to see what it takes to keep the furnace on 24/7 at 49 degrees. I will let you know what I find out, but I am hoping it's not too bad. This is why I went the propane route versus the natural gas, to keep it seperate from my house so I could monitor usage and cost.

I look forward to hearing your results. Your setup would be what I would choose if it was doable for me.

 

[Kevin54]

On quite a few of the gas heaters you are supposed to have a drainage hole near the elbow. I know that the Hamilton that I have requires it along with some others according to my heating guy. Did you have to make any provisions for that? The drainage hole keeps condensation from building up and rusting out the vent. If I make my vent a horizontal run, I have to run the flue out through the wall, running a very slight downhill slope, and the drip "T" can be outside the wall. If I run it vertical through the roof, it has to be in the elbow. Just curious as to your setup. Here is a pic I found for a Sterling heater showing how it runs although it doesn't show the drip "T".

And here is what the drip "T" would look like outside

 

[Chetter]

On quite a few of the gas heaters you are supposed to have a drainage hole near the elbow. I know that the Harrison that I have requires it along with some others according to my heating guy. Did you have to make any provisions for that? The drainage hole keeps condensation from building up and rusting out the vent. If I make my vent a horizontal run, I have to run the flue out through the wall, running a very slight downhill slope, and the drip "T" can be outside the wall. If I run it vertical through the roof, it has to be in the elbow. Just curious as to your setup. Here is a pic I found for a Sterling heater showing how it runs although it doesn't show the drip "T".

And here is what the drip "T" would look like outside

Mine has not had any water or moisture dripping once I got it up and running, everyting is dry thus far as I have checked a couple of times with the different temps outside, so far, so good..

 

[Jokeman]

Wow, I know where I am the heater must hang at least 18 inches below the ceiling to comply with code. Otherwise nice job.

 

[Kevin54]

I went and pulled up the installation instructions for the Hamilton that I have, and all mine needs is 1" clearance between heater and ceiling. That is built into the mounting brackets. From what it shows, as long as I have downward slope on my flue, I don't need the drip leg (if I go through the wall) but for going through a ceiling, it requires a drip leg. It shows this on pages 6 & 7 http://www.hamiltonhomeproducts.com/resource-files/manuals/garage-heaters/WGH Install 3-24-04.pdf

 

[Chetter]

Wow, I know where I am the heater must hang at least 18 inches below the ceiling to comply with code. Otherwise nice job.

This particular heater is made for mounting this close for those who have lower ceiling heights. It is not hot at the top at all. As for the drain tube, the verical vent kit does not require it and I don't have condensation with mine albeit, I leave mine on 24/7 with the temp set at 50 degrees. The Horizontal vent kit does require the drain tube near the back of heater. I am really loving my heater and the way it keeps things more controlled temp wise. After reading the instructions your link goes to for the hamilton unit, it does say if your run is more than 5' in length in an unheated space, then you would need to insulate the the pipe and install the drainage t. I have only 3' of single wall which is less than a foot before going through the roof where the stack sits 2 foot through the roof. No runs, no leaks, no errors thus far. I am hoping to only spend 35-50.00 a month keep it at 50 degrees, I will let you all know what it does cost me.

 

[70RSCamaro]

Hi Chetter

Since it's been a while since your install, how did it work out? How much did it end up costing you this last winter?

Also what size bottles did you use for the install?

thanks

 

[Chetter]

Hi Chetter

Since it's been a while since your install, how did it work out? How much did it end up costing you this last winter?

Also what size bottles did you use for the install?

thanks

I averaged about 100.00 a month for January and February when it was really cold here day and nite and for the rest of the heating season, 50-60.00 a month. Given the fact that I ran it 24/7 this season to see what it would really cost to heat my garage I didn't think that was bad. The wife and I were going in and out of the garage all winter long opening the 16x8 door at least 4 times a day to go to work and come home. I had the t-stat set for about 52* when I would go out to work on my Z-28, I would bump it up to nearly 70* and it was great. I am using 2-40lb bottles since I didn't want to use anything bigger so I could handle the bottles myself for refills. I have an automatic changeover regulator that switches from the empty bottle to the full one red flags the empty one. I think it has worked very well and I am happy with my setup. The one thing I do have to change is the one length of exhaust piping, since I put the wrong type in from the attic through to my roof, I need to put a double walled unit with the one that comes from furnace into the attic of the garage and that should stop the sweating I got from time to time.

 

[70RSCamaro]

Thanks Chetter



I'm working on heat for my 24x36 and you've given me some food for thought. I keep going back and forth on the whole propane tank issue, smaller portable bottles or a small fixed tank.

 

[ripsnortMN]

Thanks Chetter



I'm working on heat for my 24x36 and you've given me some food for thought. I keep going back and forth on the whole propane tank issue, smaller portable bottles or a small fixed tank.

I've got the Modine hotdawg 45k I just mounted on the ceiling recently. I will be going with a 100 lb propane tank. I figure if im out in the garage a few days a week (when its cold) it should last me quite a while between fills. Then again my garage is only 20'x22' and has R13 in the walls and R49 in the ceiling and is very well sealed up.

 

[steve68]

Hey Chetter, approximately how often did you have to fill the 40lb tank? I would like to do the same type of install but was considering useing 2, 100lb tanks. 40's would be much easier to handle. Thanks, Steve

 

[Chetter]

Hey Chetter, approximately how often did you have to fill the 40lb tank? I would like to do the same type of install but was considering useing 2, 100lb tanks. 40's would be much easier to handle. Thanks, Steve

When it was cold, I was going through a bottle anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 depending on really cold it got, and as I said before, that was leaving my unit on with a t-stat at 52* so it would cycle when needed. Like I said also in my earlier post, that was for Dec, Jan, and Feb, for the other months of Nov, March and April, I didn't go through a bottle a month. I just didn't want to wrestle 100 lb bottles and I am already 53 years young and know that it is not going to get any easier to handle so I stuck with the 40 lb units.
Chet

 

[fatboy99]

I have a Hamilton Home Products 45000 btu heater in my 22x30 shop. I also use propane at first i rented a 500 gallon tank but the supplier was ****** me on price because i rented the tank they charged me a dollar a gallon over going rate !!! I got a deal on a used 250 gallon tank was only $300.00 now i price shop during the summer when demand is low i keep the shop at 45* when not out there and 65 when in there. at 80% fill i have 200 gallons after the coldest winter weve had for 10 years and i still have 40 gallons left. It's a ****'s shoot on prices last summer when gas was $4 a gallon propane was$ 2.60 I should have waited to fill but i didnt cost me over $300.00 to fill up. If i had streached what i had left from the prevous year until the bottom droped out i could have filled up for $ 1.60 a gallon Damed if ya do damed if you dont !!! this summer im planning on running a natural gas line to the shop.
Brad

 

[alexmcneilly]

I bought a Mr Heater 45K BTU from Northern Tool last year and plan on having a gas line run from the house to the garage. I also bought the vertical exhaust kit at the same time.
Now, I have a few questions:

As I have no faith in my ability to do any cutting on my roof without screwing it up, who should I contact to install the exhaust vent kit - a roofer? or the heating and cooling company that I hire to run the gas line and hook up the heater? Anyone know of a reliable, yet inexpensive resource in the Detroit area?

Since buying the 45K Mr Heater I had my garage enlarged to 720sq ft, the city limit. My walls and ceiling are insulated as well as the garage door. Will I need to replace the 45K unit with a 75K one or can I add a second unit? Can one thermostat control two units?

Obviously from these questions you can see that I have no experience doing anything like this before. I appreciate any advice you can give me.

 

[Fleetwiz]

I guess it's time I start planning my heater for this winter....

 

[Shocker]

The Mr. Heater 45k should be just fine Alex. My shop is 764 sqft and it is said to be the right size. Anything bigger would short cycle and wear out. Now, we don't get as cold here in WA State, but I do see 35-40 in the winter.

I am installing mine here in a few weeks. If I can ever get the interior done...

 

[alexmcneilly]

Thanks Shocker.
I took a look at average lows in the Detroit area. For Dec through Feb the average low is around 20 degrees. However, I'm never working in the garage during the wee hours. So, perhaps the 45K is adequate for me. If not, I have a couple of propane heaters I can use to supplement the Mr. Heater.

-Alex