MRCOOL 36K Has Arrived

[Slowbra]

Super excited that my unit has arrived! Waiting on a few more items for the install including a 10’ fan that will also be going in.

I’ll update this post with my progress and experience with this system.

For background the garage is ~1950 sq/ft, mostly 12' ceilings with a section that is vaulted at 18.5', fully insulated including insulated Clopay doors, etc.). Goal for the unit is to take the edge off - it will only be run before and during my garage time, not run 24/7.

For now here are some pics of the unit!

 

[tricountytrail]

Is this a single head unit?
What size space are you cooling and is it insulated?
Please post some install pics and let us know how it preforms heating and cooling!

 

[Slowbra]

Is this a single head unit?
What size space are you cooling and is it insulated?
Please post some install pics and let us know how it preforms heating and cooling!

This is a single head/zone unit!

I’ll add the details of the garage to the post above to make it easy to reference. Will definitely post more info along the way!

 

[GNX423]

Very nice, I installed the pioneer (same company: Parker Davis) in my garage last year, and it has been great. will easily maintain 73 without working hard. I have a similar space, 30x40 pretty good insulation and clopay insulated doors.

Cooling down is quick, heating up I would run a supplemental kerosene heater to get the temp up and have the minisplit maintain. I think it has alot to do with heat rising and the cool air hanging in the workspace.

Good luck with the install,
Mike

 

[Slowbra]

Finally got the system all hooked/wired up.

I will have more detail pictures shortly, but in the meantime I had a question about the proper way to protect and insulate the line set at the condenser. Do they sell the appropriate items at Home Depot to accommodate this?

 

[SouthLake]

I would have hung it on the wall. The higher up the better. The lower these sit the more debris they see. they are very sensitive to getting dirty.

 

[MattT]

I will have more detail pictures shortly, but in the meantime I had a question about the proper way to protect and insulate the line set at the condenser.

Try working the insulation along the lineset to see if you can get it to reach the condenser. Don't stretch it, just ease it along to get any slack out of it.

 

[Slowbra]

Try working the insulation along the lineset to see if you can get it to reach the condenser. Don't stretch it, just ease it along to get any slack out of it.

Bought some insulation from Home Depot and buttoned her up!

 

[Jackfre]

It is not to late to raise the unit...is it? They make 6" pilots for them. If you expect to do a substantial amount of heat with it and it is below freezing where you are the condensate from the defrost cycle can freeze the drain port(s) on the bottom of the unit. It can then build up and interfere with the condenser fan. I have seen them frozen in place and I have seen those nice efficient fan blades become very short. Raising them helps keep them clean too.

 

[Slowbra]

It is not to late to raise the unit...is it? They make 6" pilots for them. If you expect to do a substantial amount of heat with it and it is below freezing where you are the condensate from the defrost cycle can freeze the drain port(s) on the bottom of the unit. It can then build up and interfere with the condenser fan. I have seen them frozen in place and I have seen those nice efficient fan blades become very short. Raising them helps keep them clean too.

It’s not too late to raise it up a little bit. I’ll probably look into this with some better feet before I bolt it down.

 

[SouthLake]

They sell L brackets for them. I would mount it a minimum of 2’ up the wall. Preferably higher. Unless you want to be burning through units every few years.

 

[Slowbra]

The time for installing this on the wall has passed for me. I will be raising the unit a few inches this week when the feet come in. Thanks for the feedback though.

 

[GRivera]

Super excited that my unit has arrived! Waiting on a few more items for the install including a 10’ fan that will also be going in.

I’ll update this post with my progress and experience with this system.

For background the garage is ~1950 sq/ft, mostly 12' ceilings with a section that is vaulted at 18.5', fully insulated including insulated Clopay doors, etc.). Goal for the unit is to take the edge off - it will only be run before and during my garage time, not run 24/7.

For now here are some pics of the unit!

How are you making out with the heat? Is the unit keeping up with the large space?

 

[dcg9381]

Cost? I've got 2 x 24k units in 2400 sqft (Texas) - it does fine.

 

[Slowbra]

How are you making out with the heat? Is the unit keeping up with the large space?

I’ve only used it once on heat and my experience was great. It raised the temp in the garage from 57 to 68 in under 20min. Measurement was taken about 1/2 way in the garage. The outside temperature at the time was low 40s at the time.

 

[SouthLake]

I don’t turn mine off. I just leave it running to condition the garage.

 

[GRivera]

Did you buy in line? Ingram’s?

 

[Slowbra]

Did you buy in line? Ingram’s?

I ordered mine from Costco.

 

[GRivera]

So I just returned my 24k to Costco- unopened. They don’t sell a 36k any longer so I had to purchase from Ingram’s- $2210 shipped. My research suggested the 24K would have struggled to heat the 1200 ft space due to the scissor trusses/cathedral ceilings 30x40x12/14’ peak. Insulation will be R38 ceiling and R19 walls.

I would have preferred Costco due to their return policy but will aim to install this one within the next month to make sure I uncover problems, if any, early.

 

[Slowbra]

So I just returned my 24k to Costco- unopened. They don’t sell a 36k any longer so I had to purchase from Ingram’s- $2210 shipped. My research suggested the 24K would have struggled to heat the 1200 ft space due to the scissor trusses/cathedral ceilings 30x40x12/14’ peak. Insulation will be R38 ceiling and R19 walls.

I would have preferred Costco due to their return policy but will aim to install this one within the next month to make sure I uncover problems, if any, early.

I’m fairly sure that Ingram’s is where they all come from in the US anyway. There have been mainly positive reviews of their service too so I think you are good.

I purchased from Costco because I know they will support me for years to come if there is an issue that can’t get resolved.

 

[GRivera]

I’ve thought about using wall brackets to install the compressor off the ground but I’m concerned about vibration (pole barn). Is this a legitimate concern?

 

[jchev53]

I just finished the installation of a 24k system and used the bracket to hang it on my wood frame garage. The unit is smooth and I did this after a friend installed a 36k unit on a metal building with the wall bracket and it worked out well.


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[GRivera]

When using the wall brackets does it place the condenser too close to the structure with not enough clearance for ventilation?

 

[yeldogt]

Vibration: This depends on a few factors. Top on the list may be expectations. It you are used to hearing an AC run -- or feel anything .. a typically mini is not going to seem loud

I have used mini-splits on quite a few projects and the only one where I can hear anything is the one on a wall (brick). Tiny vibration as well occasionally ..... mostly when heating. My guess is no one but me even notices it.

This a 30k multi head Mitsubishi unit -- so it maybe be ramping up and down more vs another type. I have the same unit at another house on a pad and I never hear it.



Grivera -- did you do a load on the building. What's your average cold temp -- and the units output at the level.

 

[Slowbra]

I’ll say this. I wasted months of debating how to install, where to install, what will it look like, etc.

Finally my friend came over and said let’s get this **** done so you can enjoy it. I had done enough research, but was in analysis paralysis mode.

Just install it and be done. Enjoy

 

[GRivera]

Vibration: This depends on a few factors. Top on the list may be expectations. It you are used to hearing an AC run -- or feel anything .. a typically mini is not going to seem loud

I have used mini-splits on quite a few projects and the only one where I can hear anything is the one on a wall (brick). Tiny vibration as well occasionally ..... mostly when heating. My guess is no one but me even notices it.

This a 30k multi head Mitsubishi unit -- so it maybe be ramping up and down more vs another type. I have the same unit at another house on a pad and I never hear it.



Grivera -- did you do a load on the building. What's your average cold temp -- and the units output at the level.

I didn't do a load on building. Instead, provided Ingram's with my building size 30x40x12' with cathedral ceiling at 14'. And insulation yet to be installed R38 ceiling, R19 walls. They said 24K was fine for AC but too small for heat as it would struggle to keep up, so I opted for the 36k unit.

 

[yeldogt]

I’ll say this. I wasted months of debating how to install, where to install, what will it look like, etc.

Finally my friend came over and said let’s get this **** done so you can enjoy it. I had done enough research, but was in analysis paralysis mode.

Just install it and be done. Enjoy

Valid point:

There is a lot of information and it gets confusing ... it really does start with a load calculation IMO. What does the SF of my building require in my temperature zone -- with both heat and cooling if that's what you want.

Then you have to decide how you are going to use the building -- all the models use a maintained temp as they are based on heating a residence - this is important.

You also don't want to size a heater for an outside temp that's only hit once or twice every couple of years if it's going to result in buying a larger size ... same with AC. If you know an odd temp is coming -- it better to run the AC a bit more in advance and to supplement the heat w/ simple resistance. This way you get the most efficiencies during the operation most of the time.

Ceiling height is addressed with moving air in heat and not moving air with AC above a persons height.

You do have to think about snow and freezing weather when operating these in areas where this will occur. Protecting the unit from falling snow from a roof as well as keeping the unit free from ice and snow. Many of the cheaper units don't have pan heaters. Another item that's often not understood is cold operation ... it seems the online sellers like to say the unit will work down to a particular temp ... you really need to see what the output of the unit is at that temp. That's the point of the hypers ... they are giving full output at the low temps. Some start to drop off under 25 degrees .. and may not give enough heat when you need it. They work .. but not at the output you are buying.

I think people also discount electric resistance too quick ... yes it expensive relative to all the others (unless you have really cheap electric) ... but, even in expensive places it can bridge the gap on really cold days -- and provide quicker warm ups when needed in a less used space.

My old studio space had both propane and electric ... when using the space regularly the propane sealed combustion unit heated my studio. If I was gone for a couple of weeks and turned it down .. the electric was available to bring the space up to temp a bit quicker if i arrived and want to work immediately. It was also available if I just wanted my work space a little warmer. What's an extra hour of running a heater going to cost over a winter vs having an oversized unit working all the time. Electric is cheap to buy and very directional ...

 

[Slowbra]

Valid point:



There is a lot of information and it gets confusing ... it really does start with a load calculation IMO. What does the SF of my building require in my temperature zone -- with both heat and cooling if that's what you want.



Then you have to decide how you are going to use the building -- all the models use a maintained temp as they are based on heating a residence - this is important.



You also don't want to size a heater for an outside temp that's only hit once or twice every couple of years if it's going to result in buying a larger size ... same with AC. If you know an odd temp is coming -- it better to run the AC a bit more in advance and to supplement the heat w/ simple resistance. This way you get the most efficiencies during the operation most of the time.



Ceiling height is addressed with moving air in heat and not moving air with AC above a persons height.



You do have to think about snow and freezing weather when operating these in areas where this will occur. Protecting the unit from falling snow from a roof as well as keeping the unit free from ice and snow. Many of the cheaper units don't have pan heaters. Another item that's often not understood is cold operation ... it seems the online sellers like to say the unit will work down to a particular temp ... you really need to see what the output of the unit is at that temp. That's the point of the hypers ... they are giving full output at the low temps. Some start to drop off under 25 degrees .. and may not give enough heat when you need it. They work .. but not at the output you are buying.



I think people also discount electric resistance too quick ... yes it expensive relative to all the others (unless you have really cheap electric) ... but, even in expensive places it can bridge the gap on really cold days -- and provide quicker warm ups when needed in a less used space.



My old studio space had both propane and electric ... when using the space regularly the propane sealed combustion unit heated my studio. If I was gone for a couple of weeks and turned it down .. the electric was available to bring the space up to temp a bit quicker if i arrived and want to work immediately. It was also available if I just wanted my work space a little warmer. What's an extra hour of running a heater going to cost over a winter vs having an oversized unit working all the time. Electric is cheap to buy and very directional ...

Agreed. Once you have those considerations sorted out and bought the unit it’s time to get it done.

 

[GRivera]

Thanks. i'm in a cold area. Average lows in winter in the low 30s