MrCool 36k mini split wall penetration

[DarMar]

I am finishing up the sheetrock work in my 36x64 Morton building and am planning out the install of my soon-to-be purchased MrCool 36k ductless minisplit. It pains me to have to cut a hole in the wall to run the lineset and associated lines through but I know it has to be done. I don't need all 25 feet of lineset so I am going to coil it up in the wall. I spoke with a MrCool rep about doing that as I had heard that this may cause problems. He said it would not and that a lot of people do it that way. Since I have wainscoting around the bottom of my building I will need to do the wall penetration below the 3 foot height due to a metal lip between the two different colors of metal. Is there something to seal the bottom of the lineset channel that you can buy to hide the lines? I live in central Texas so there are all kinds of critters (termites,snakes, rats, mice, wasps) that can get in to the building through a 3" hole so want to make sure it is sealed up. I would really like to see some pictures of wall penetrations on metal buildings before I start cutting away. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[matt_i]

I think I'd use the great stuff pest block. Could also do a layer of the fire-resistant great stuff from the inside.

I would think at minimum a sealed or gasketed or lapped flashing should protect the penetration.

 

[Kaizen]

As far as I know the penetration has to be right behind the head unit. You're putting the head unit at 3 feet?


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[DarMar]

Because of the way my metal building is constructed, there is a 6 inch gap between the sheetrock on the inside and the metal on the outside. This area is filled with insulation. This is the area where I can roll up and store the additional lineset.

 

[Kaizen]

Good luck. I don't know if you will get those tight bends. The line set I'd heavy and doesn't like to be bent.


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[driftpin]

Why don't you have the refrigerant line cut & silver soldered to the exact length you need? That's what my HVAC master license-holder of nearly 40 years, & friend recommended to me.

Some stainless steel 'brillo pad' material inside the hole to take-up any voids and to prevent rodents from knawing thru, then a spray foam hardening agent, and some of the white duct sealant goop applied by hand should make things weathertight, rodent-proof and bug-proof. You might try to affix some type of a rubber gasket on top of all of that if it's directly exposed to the sun to lower the 'cooking' over time of the plug material. Some 3M Super Weatherstrip Sealant, the black stuff, could allow you to cut a round rubber gasket to slip it over the pipes and then to bond the open sides back-together. I'm thinking of a roof boot for a plumbing vent stack.

 

[benjy]

What did you end up doing & how's it working out?

 

[therealjakeg]

I just walked in from installing mine and cut, flared, and put a vacuum on all three units. Everything works as it should. I would be concerned about condensation build up over time in the coil and dripping with insulation around the lines or not. Just my thoughts. My neighbor coiled his up outside by the condenser.

 

[AA7483]

Do not coil the excess lineset. You will create an oil trap. If you have excess pipe you need to lose create a serpentine inside the wall instead.

 

[mikeceli]

But Mrcool instruction says to coil up the extra lines , AA7483 ?

 

[My Old Tools]

I just moved my outside unit down the side of the building far enough to use up the 25 feet of line. Nothing to coil that way.

 

[jjrbus]

Mr Cool has a 16 foot lineset.

 

[mike93lx]

Do not coil the excess lineset. You will create an oil trap. If you have excess pipe you need to lose create a serpentine inside the wall instead.

Coiling the excess lineset is recommended by all of the diy mini split.manufacturers. Some say to keep it horizontal, but not all. I had a freidrich system with the excess creating a trap (consistent with their recommendations) and had no problem in the few years that I used it.