MRCOOL DIY Mini Split, Seriously, I Think...

[SALIV8]

My line set that is running to my upstairs is probably around 25-30 feet or so. The line set I would need to run for my garage would probably be about 8-10 feet. I just wondered what the pre charged line set was, since it just appeared to be a nitrogen purged set of lines in the video. If that's all it is, I will just get this setup and give it a go.

The pre charged diy mini splits offered by mr cool include a lineset that comes with a proprietary quick connect that is 25' long. Any excess would need to be coiled as you cannot shorten or lengthen this design.

Take a look at the beginning of this thread it will show you this style.

These sealed diy quick connect styles and systems do not offer a multi head option. Just one condenser and one evaporator.

 

[aunsafe2015]

The pre charged diy mini splits offered by mr cool include a lineset that comes with a proprietary quick connect that is 25' long. Any excess would need to be coiled as you cannot shorten or lengthen this design.

Take a look at the beginning of this thread it will show you this style.

These sealed diy quick connect styles and systems do not offer a multi head option. Just one condenser and one evaporator.

I wonder if there's a reason they don't offer different lineset length options. Maybe a 15 and a 25.

 

[Browneye]

They bring 4 versions over in containers. 4 sizes 12k to 36k btu, that is all.

 

[SALIV8]

I wonder if there's a reason they don't offer different lineset length options. Maybe a 15 and a 25.

I agree.

I would think there would also be an opportunity for multi head options, but I guess the market dictates what the manufacturers sell.

 

[Xti04]

I wonder if there's a reason they don't offer different lineset length options. Maybe a 15 and a 25.

The set I posted o. The previous page comes with 16 foot linesets. But you have to flare them yourself, it's not the DIY setup.

 

[Browneye]

There are tons of options for a pro install. Not so much for DIY.
It either works for you or it doesn’t. Hoping for something else just isn’t in the cards.
Import them yourself! Lol

The hvac industry HATES these things. They can’t rip you off.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

Bringing back this thread. I am looking for a 24k system, but the hoses will need to be approx 40'. Any recommendations? Mr. Cool only offers 25' in their system.

 

[PoorOwner]

Bringing back this thread. I am looking for a 24k system, but the hoses will need to be approx 40'. Any recommendations? Mr. Cool only offers 25' in their system.

This unit won't work until you shorten your requirement to 25 feet or less. You are looking at quite a bit of work to extend the unit and it will not be cheaper than a non-diy unit after all is done.


hint: it is easier to lengthen electrical wire than refrigeration lines + recharge etc.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

Recommendations of other units then?

 

[Browneye]

Recommendations of other units then?

Some of the retailers have a 'configurator' type of order process where you can specify your line set and such. I want to say you can do that with Pioneer - you can buy direct or through amazon or ebay. Seems like good product.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy Gree, Fredriech, Daikin, or Mitsubishi. Or even the MRCool Oasis or Advantage line. I likely would have bought Daikin had I not done it all myself.

If you're going to pay an AC tech to test, charge and turn up, you can have him flare and connect your lineset cut to the right length. You can do all of the work except the actual turn-on, if you're so inclined. He would sign off your installation for warranty purposes as well, as none of these companies honor warranty claims on an owner-installed system.

Our two units ran all summer, very delighted with them. They have been a game-changer for comfort. As soon as temps dropped from scorching our power bill went back down too. Extremely pleased with them both - a 1 and a two ton, one in the MB and the bigger one in the main part of the house.

I also took the opportunity to strip the central air unit and lineset, and air handler out from atop the old gas furnace. Rebuilt the plenum, re-insulated, tuned up the furnace, cleaned the burners, a new thermal-couple and put it all back together. It works great - it's olive green and from about 1971 - a SEARS ROEBUCK unit. LOL

One of the 'pro's quoting central air for us wrote that our old setup was likely going to kill us. That's sales tactics at their finest. They're the ones that wanted $15K for AC. Did it myself for $2500.

 

[danb35]

will not be cheaper than a non-diy unit after all is done.

It isn't cheaper than a non-DIY unit to begin with--the MrCool DIY units are, in fact, considerably more expensive than the low-end non-"DIY" units on the market. For comparison, the MrCool DIY 24k unit from Ingrams is $1,642, while the Pioneer 16 SEER 24k unit from highseer,com (which I bought instead) is $968. Granted, I had to buy about $200 worth of tools (vacuum pump, manifold gauge, micron gauge) to install the Pioneer unit, but even after that and paying for shipping, I'm $400 ahead. And I already had those tools for the second unit.

Edit: Highseer.com will sell the Pioneer units with an installation kit of your desired length, up to 50' (at an extra cost if over 16'). However, over 25' of lineset, they do call for adding a small amount of refrigerant.

Edit 2: Specifically, for the "small" units (up to 12k BTU), you add 0.16 oz/ft for line sets over 16' long; for the larger units, it's 0.32 oz/ft. That's an extra 3.84 oz of refrigerant for a 40-foot line set on the small unit, 7.68 oz on a larger unit.

 

[PoorOwner]

Recommendations of other units then?

You can get the daikin unit they come with enough charge have 33 ft of piping.
Depending on your total length beyond 33 ft you may find you only need to add a few oz of charge.

 

[pahjodesigns]

I installed 2 MRCOOL DIY Mini splits and wrote 2 detailed blog posts which outline my the installation. One of the mini splits stopped cooling and I also wrote a blog about my warranty experience as well. Since I am not affiliated with MRCOOL and purchased these units with my own money, these blog posts are unbiased and as real as it gets.

Since I'm a new member, I can't post the link to the blog posts. My garage journal username will give you a good idea of my website address. Navigate to projects->workshop.

I hope my blog posts help those in the market to install a DIY mini split.

 

[Maximusppl]

What size of mini split do you recommend for a 21x23 garage with 12’ ceiling? It’s insulated, drywalled, with an insulated garage door.


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[justinjoyal]

What size of mini split do you recommend for a 21x23 garage with 12’ ceiling? It’s insulated, drywalled, with an insulated garage door.


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Depends much on insulation R-values and design outdoor+indoor temps.

 

[Browneye]

What size of mini split do you recommend for a 21x23 garage with 12’ ceiling? It’s insulated, drywalled, with an insulated garage door.


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I think you would find that a 12K unit would be just fine for a standard garage.

@pahjodesigns - saw your post when I was on the hunt - somewhat helpful. IIRC you had to pull the head unit and replace it, that you weren't too happy about that. It gave me pause, and likely one of the main reasons I went with MRCOOL for a DIY install so I knew I had good warranty coverage in case it quit cooling.

My two have been going since mid-year, and other than the power consumption spike during the hot months, we've been absolutely delighted with them. Especially the 2ton unit, I find it amazing - it's so quiet and efficient, blows tons of cold air, just love it. And I no longer have that queasy feeling it's going to fail for some reason - I think that's more rare than common.

 

[Maximusppl]

I think it’s R12 or R19 on sides and better in attic. I can go with the 18k and be safe.


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[dcg9381]

It isn't cheaper than a non-DIY unit to begin with--the MrCool DIY units are, in fact, considerably more expensive than the low-end non-"DIY" units on the market. For comparison, the MrCool DIY 24k unit from Ingrams is $1,642, while the Pioneer 16 SEER 24k unit from highseer,com (which I bought instead) is $968. Granted, I had to buy about $200 worth of tools (vacuum pump, manifold gauge, micron gauge) to install the Pioneer unit, but even after that and paying for shipping, I'm $400 ahead. And I already had those tools for the second unit.

This is what I found also. I'm planning on using the pioneer units from highseer. Mr. Cool seems to thrive in the DIY market - I think the difference is (perhaps) that a Mr. cool unit is warrantied as DIY and Pioneer isn't...

 

[red]

I think it’s R12 or R19 on sides and better in attic. I can go with the 18k and be safe.


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One of the experts will probably help with more information, but oversizing a unit can be just as bad as undersizing it. Because the unit will cool the room too fast leaving you with high humidity.

It pays to run the numbers and get it right the first time.

 

[danb35]

I think the difference is (perhaps) that a Mr. cool unit is warrantied as DIY and Pioneer isn't...

By the terms of the warranty, the Mr Cool DIY units are covered if you DIY, and the Pioneer units aren't. That's a risk I'm taking with the Pioneer. The other difference I can see is that there are more options with Pioneer--higher-SEER units, different line sets, multi-head, ceiling-mount, etc.

 

[Browneye]

By the terms of the warranty, the Mr Cool DIY units are covered if you DIY, and the Pioneer units aren't. That's a risk I'm taking with the Pioneer. The other difference I can see is that there are more options with Pioneer--higher-SEER units, different line sets, multi-head, ceiling-mount, etc.

MrCool has those options as well - their 'advantage' and 'oasis' lines, but they are not DIY models, they're traditional separate line set units that require vac-test and turn up.

If a guy is creative he can usually find an HVAC guy that will do the final work to start up a unit for a reasonable cost, and validate the warranty. They bring their tools and equipment and get the unit going, come back if there's a warranty claim. There is a cost to do this, seems similar to buying a basic gauge set and etc. And of course you need the specialized knowledge on how to use them and make it all work, whereas the DIY you simply connect and go.

 

[clymer]

For the people wondering about heating with these, I have been heating at night exclusively with the 24,000 BTU unit in Massachusetts and it has frosted outside (gotten down to the mid 20's), indoot temp maintained at 70.

 

[bash_brannigan]

Just received my 18K Mr Cool DIY, looking at the install details now. I want to run the coolant pipes in the attic space of the garage and bring them outside at the rear (where there is some hardie plank instead of brick). I know the drain needs to slope down, and thought about drilling a smaller hole (1 inch?) through the brick and just hooking the drain hose to a length of PVC pipe then straight out (4-6 inches?). Would be about 8 feet up. Anyone see an issue with this? The wall is visible from the street and wife wouldn't be excited to see the whole hose set running along outside on the brick wall!
Thanks

 

[Maximusppl]

One of the experts will probably help with more information, but oversizing a unit can be just as bad as undersizing it. Because the unit will cool the room too fast leaving you with high humidity.



It pays to run the numbers and get it right the first time.

True, will see how it goes. I got high ceilings so it’s not a standard 500sq ft garage.


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[Browneye]

Just received my 18K Mr Cool DIY, looking at the install details now. I want to run the coolant pipes in the attic space of the garage and bring them outside at the rear (where there is some hardie plank instead of brick). I know the drain needs to slope down, and thought about drilling a smaller hole (1 inch?) through the brick and just hooking the drain hose to a length of PVC pipe then straight out (4-6 inches?). Would be about 8 feet up. Anyone see an issue with this? The wall is visible from the street and wife wouldn't be excited to see the whole hose set running along outside on the brick wall!
Thanks

I would not terminate the condensate drain 8' up an outside wall - if I understood that correctly. They make quite a lot of water if there is any humidity. You would not like all that water running down the wall. It's a steady drip when it's cooling. Our 2-ton makes 3-4 gallons a day - we collect it in a watering can for plants.

Either drain or line set can be covered to improve appearance.

 

[Browneye]

True, will see how it goes. I got high ceilings so it’s not a standard 500sq ft garage.

AC air stratifies unless you really blow it around which not general practice.
Are your cooling days consistently over 100*?

 

[Citation]

One of the experts will probably help with more information, but oversizing a unit can be just as bad as undersizing it. Because the unit will cool the room too fast leaving you with high humidity.

It pays to run the numbers and get it right the first time.

Oversizing is less critical with many of these units because they are variable speed. The compressor and fans can run at lower power thus reducing output. So unless you go way over size the unit should throttle back and not have the issues with short cooling cycles like you described. The pioneer 12000 btu I installed had I think three power levels so if 12000 was too much it would just show down.

 

[Maximusppl]

Oversizing is less critical with many of these units because they are variable speed. The compressor and fans can run at lower power thus reducing output. So unless you go way over size the unit should throttle back and not have the issues with short cooling cycles like you described. The pioneer 12000 btu I installed had I think three power levels so if 12000 was too much it would just show down.

Good to hear this as well!!!


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[bash_brannigan]

I would not terminate the condensate drain 8' up an outside wall - if I understood that correctly. They make quite a lot of water if there is any humidity. You would not like all that water running down the wall. It's a steady drip when it's cooling. Our 2-ton makes 3-4 gallons a day - we collect it in a watering can for plants.

Either drain or line set can be covered to improve appearance.

Thanks for the reply - I think you are absolutely right, can't have water running down the brick - I'm in Houston, so humidity will mean constant flow through the drain line. I plan to put a PVC line down to close to ground level and put a 45deg at the bottom to break the fall onto the ground.

Here's another question. I have a single layer of brick on the outside of my house (brick veneer). I plan to mount the outside unit on a wall bracket - do I need to drill right through the bricks, insulation and sheathing to find studs?

Thanks

 

[Browneye]

Thanks for the reply - I think you are absolutely right, can't have water running down the brick - I'm in Houston, so humidity will mean constant flow through the drain line. I plan to put a PVC line down to close to ground level and put a 45deg at the bottom to break the fall onto the ground.

Here's another question. I have a single layer of brick on the outside of my house (brick veneer). I plan to mount the outside unit on a wall bracket - do I need to drill right through the bricks, insulation and sheathing to find studs?

Thanks

That should work for a drain - just know they make quite a lot of water - you may as well put it to good use if possible. Water some plants there or something.

A popular solution is to plumb it to a condensate pump and then send it down a sewer drain. My old vintage central unit had a copper line off a pump that went into the clothes-washer drain in the garage.

Here's what I did with my drain:



I would mount brackets to studs, not a fascia. A 2-ton is about 130lbs and you'll have a lever-affect on the brackets.

Why not set it on a couple of big pavers? Or pour a little slab for it?

My 1-ton sits on four 15" pavers. Never even moves, but then we don't have a flooding issue here:




EDIT: BTW, the second image also shows my condensate drain for the smaller unit - going into a surface water drain. It works fine, but having water there all the time makes algae grow and I suspect mosquitoes down the drain. Not sure what I would do differently if I did it over, but just realize you'll have water from your drain whenever your unit is running.

 

[I Really Just Don't Know]

I'm going to order a 24k DIY. Costco and Amazon (shipped by Ingrams) are within $6 of each other. I can get 5% back on my credit card from either.

Any thoughts on which would be better to order from? Does it really matter?

 

[bash_brannigan]

I'm going to order a 24k DIY. Costco and Amazon (shipped by Ingrams) are within $6 of each other. I can get 5% back on my credit card from either.

Any thoughts on which would be better to order from? Does it really matter?

I don't think it will make a difference - I ordered from Costco and it was shipped from the same town in KY as Ingrams. Seems unlikely that there are two distributors in the same town! If you want to get tech help you will be better off with an order through Ingrams, I would imagine.

 

[bash_brannigan]

Browneye - thanks for the thoughts. I would like to just put the condenser on a pad, but space is tight - house A/C units, water softener, pool filter, heater, pumps etc. are all in the way. The only way to get the condenser on the ground would be to put the indoor unit in an alcove at the rear corner, which would just about allow me to put a pad down, but even then the space around the unit would be close to the minimum required. Mounting on the wall makes everything work better, but adds a headache now I realize that American brick walls aren't useful for hanging heavy things! I grew up in England, where houses are made of concrete blocks and bricks, so you can hang what you want where you want!

The location I have in mind puts the drain over a flower bed, and any excess will run off into the existing surface water drainage pipes. If need be, I could always put the drain down straight into that drainage system.

Looks like I have to figure out how to find studs behind a brick wall! Would a lag bolt through the brick and into the stud work? (6 inch bolt should put me 2 inches into the stud). Would I need to line the hole through the brick? I'm thinking I would use the plastic wall plugs that came with the brackets, but just screw straight through and into the studs.

 

[Browneye]

Sounds like you're good.


Buying...
If the costs are all similar I would buy from Ingram's. They are the primary distributor for MrCool. And they support any warranty claims. They have been very responsive to my knowledge.

After getting a 2-ton and installing it, I was so impressed I got a 1-ton from them. But found a 'scratch-n-dent' one for $500 off. I had to repair the outside housing, and they replaced the plastic cover over the lineset valves, but it works perfectly.

My cost to get two units installed was a quarter of what commercial HVAC contractors were quoting me. Everybody whines about being able to get warranty coverage, but gee, I could buy them three more times at retail and still be even. pfft.

 

[Maximusppl]

I just mounted my 18k condenser on my wooden walls with the MeCool bracket. Just found 2 studs and used 3/8” by 3” lag bolts/screws from Home Depot and then in the other 3 holes used 3/8” by 1.5” lag bolts/screws and it seems to be holding up fine. I had to make new holes where it mounted to the studs because their holes aren’t 16” apart.






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[Browneye]

Looks good - if not a little close to the wall. As long as it can draw air for the condenser fan - the spec is 12", but a little is likely okay.

 

[Maximusppl]

Here is a finished pic.

Actually having an E1 error code so the place is sending out a new motherboard (pcb).




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[Browneye]

Way too close to the wall. Spec is for 12", but slightly less will still work. This looks to be about 4" max. And the loop going way down is a compressor oil trap. I would have a pro look at this installation. Mrcool was very clear with me about line set slope and installation specs.

 

[Maximusppl]

Way too close to the wall. Spec is for 12", but slightly less will still work. This looks to be about 4" max. And the loop going way down is a compressor oil trap. I would have a pro look at this installation. Mrcool was very clear with me about line set slope and installation specs.

I am on Sunday actually. Will update what they say. Need them to check all the wiring anyway.

Not sure what you mean about the line set slope.


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[SALIV8]

How did you not kink those connections? They look like tight 90s.

And the line set and wiring is just laying on the ground there?