MRCOOL DIY Mini Split, Seriously, I Think...

[Browneye]

I specifically called Mrcool about looping the lineset as my second install only needed about 8' - they recommended that any coils be horizontal and not vertical. Everything I could find on installation said no looping of line, that it would pool compressor oil.

If you look up thread you'll find my post on building a box for the excess line so it could coil horizontally.

The way you have it MAY work, but may also fail your compressor over time.

Mrcool said place your unit so your lineset has a slope for easy draining.

 

[Maximusppl]

Browneye,

Tried to search but couldn’t find your thread. Mind linking to it?


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[shelteredV]

We just did a 12 and 18k Mrcool units in our new office area and its pretty darn easy. The units run well in heat mode and are a supplement to the radiant floors. We will be using them mostly for cooling and humidity control during the warm months. Even though I am in the business and could have had my HVAC guy come do a system, he couldn't touch the pricing we got on these pre-charged units. For someone decently capable, it's a no brainer.
The one thing I did was make a frame around the wall units to create a decent break point for the sheetrock. The way the face of the unit is made, it isn't easy to get a clean look and finish, so by making a nice frame, you don't look at the curved ends of the cover. I didn't read every page of this thread, so I'm not sure if anyone else has done this.

 

[Raisedonadeere]

I specifically called Mrcool about looping the lineset as my second install only needed about 8' - they recommended that any coils be horizontal and not vertical. Everything I could find on installation said no looping of line, that it would pool compressor oil.

If you look up thread you'll find my post on building a box for the excess line so it could coil horizontally.

The way you have it MAY work, but may also fail your compressor over time.

Mrcool said place your unit so your lineset has a slope for easy draining.

We just did a 12 and 18k units in our new office area and its pretty darn easy. The one thing I did was make a frame around the wall units to create a decent break point for the sheetrock. The way the face of the unit is made, it isn't easy to get a clean look and finish. I didn't read every page of this thread, so I'm not sure if anyone else has done this.

By frame, are you speaking of some sort of mitered picture frame type construction. A little more description or picture would be appreciated. I have been thinking the end view of th 12K wall unt as I enter the room could use some improvement.

 

[Maximusppl]

Just ordered one of these. Not only is it wide enough to go through 3 studs 16” apart, it looks like it has more space to move the unit further from the wall. Looks VERY sturdy (supports up to 500 lbs).

https://www.h-mac.com/quick-sling-qswb4000.html




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[shelteredV]

By frame, are you speaking of some sort of mitered picture frame type construction. A little more description or picture would be appreciated. I have been thinking the end view of th 12K wall unt as I enter the room could use some improvement.

Yes, I made a simple picture frame for exactly that reason. My guys are polishing the sheetrock today and I'll pop a couple pics to add here.

 

[SALIV8]

Just ordered one of these. Not only is it wide enough to go through 3 studs 16” apart, it looks like it has more space to move the unit further from the wall. Looks VERY sturdy (supports up to 500 lbs).

https://www.h-mac.com/quick-sling-qswb4000.html




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You'll like that product. I have 2 of the heavy duTy ones (both my condensers weigh ~150lbs) and they are well built.

 

[Browneye]

Browneye,

Tried to search but couldn’t find your thread. Mind linking to it?


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Page 11 here.
That racking unit looks great.

 

[Maximusppl]

Had an HVAC guy come over. He found that one of the wires on some transmitter inside the outside compressor wasn’t connected. Plugged that in and it all started working. Now I got heat!!




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[Maximusppl]

Also, As soon as my line sets covers come I will come up with a good way to cover the lines and extend them out where there aren’t many coils, if any.




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[Maximusppl]

Checked in there tonight and it’s a very nice 70 degrees in the garage. Temp on unit/remote is set at 74. It helps that it got up to high 50’s outside today as well. Will see how it is when it gets colder and colder. This should also test my insulation.


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[Maximusppl]

Here you go,

Did 1 side of the linekit cover and will be doing the back another day this week/weekend. Used a 4” set that works out real well. Don’t worry the lineset isn’t resting on the gutter




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[SALIV8]

I like your hidden drain line!

 

[Maximusppl]

I like your hidden drain line!

Thanks. I saw it done somewhere and thought it was an excellent idea. I have a French drain there so not worried about it pooling up during the summer when COOL is used.


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[Randomkoko]

For those who drilled the hole on the ride side. How did you bend the tubing line downwards without kinking the line?

 

[jjrbus]

I specifically called Mrcool about looping the lineset as my second install only needed about 8' - they recommended that any coils be horizontal and not vertical. Everything I could find on installation said no looping of line, that it would pool compressor oil.

If you look up thread you'll find my post on building a box for the excess line so it could coil horizontally.

The way you have it MAY work, but may also fail your compressor over time.

Mrcool said place your unit so your lineset has a slope for easy draining.

There is soooo much missinformation on the net for mini's. This is a Mr Cool video published by Mr Cool. It shows the line sets looped by the unit at about 5.35 minutes. It is not the only Mr Cool video showing this!

 

[Browneye]

There is soooo much missinformation on the net for mini's. This is a Mr Cool video published by Mr Cool. It shows the line sets looped by the unit at about 5.35 minutes. It is not the only Mr Cool video showing this!

I believe you. However I should also caution that installation pro's all say 'no' and I specifically called MrCool importer and got tech support and they said they did not recommend coiling the lineset vertically for the same reasons the pro's say not to - compressor oil can/will collect in the loops causing failure of the compressor.

It sure would have been a lot less hassle for me had I just coiled the lineset behind the unit. I went to a LOT of trouble to ensure they were coiled horizontally.

BTW, both of my units are working flawlessly. We absolutely love them. Been using them all winter for heat and they're silent and toasty. Love these things.

 

[Speedster29]

In an earlier part of this thread some named Lowe's as a source for Mr Cool. Free shipping to the store and if you are a Vet 10% off.

I live near Portland, Oregon so still not convinced I need one as my shop only heats up on the very few days that are over 100 deg. A portable oil filled electric heater, keeps things comfy at 65 deg in winter and electric bill is about $80/month. Dedicated meter (Sepate service from house) running lights, compressor, welding, etc.

 

[jjrbus]

I found the Mr Cool interesting in that there will be lots of DIY repair info on them in a few years. But could not abide the 25 foot lines!

Excess lineset needs to be serpentine! To avoid pooling oil.

 

[Browneye]

I found the Mr Cool interesting in that there will be lots of DIY repair info on them in a few years. But could not abide the 25 foot lines!

Excess lineset needs to be serpentine! To avoid pooling oil.

That's what they told me...move it down the building and slope the lineset. Unfortunately in my situation that wasn't possible, so I built the shelf to coil them horizontally, in conjunction with a "weather shield". Worked out great!

 

[Z.Gos]

Hi everybody. I installed a 2 ton Mr Cool DIY unit in my shop (24x36 R19 in walls, R30 in ceiling) about a month ago. Figured I’d share my experience here. I felt it was pretty easy to install. I did all of the wiring before I hung up my insulation and wall panels. The unit installation took about half a day (with one trip to the hardware store). So far, it’s been pumping out heat even when the ambient temperature is down in the single digits. I keep my it set at 62 (lowest setting) and it keeps the shop at about 58-60. It did have problems keeping up during this latest polar vortex with temps in the negatives for a couple days. Overall, I’m impressed and it’s been a great fit for me so far. I hope I can say the same in the future.

 

[HotrodHR]

I need some advice on split unit size for my detached shop (garage). I've looked at recommendations from many sources and they are all over the place. I also used the ecomfort.com calculator and it came in at needing at least 6300 Btu for cooling and 15100 Btu for heating. I used the fair rating for insulation quality although I would say it's probably excellent. I'm located in northern Alabama and it does get hot and humid in the summers with occasional cold snaps in the winter. I'd like to DIY the install with Mr Cool or equivalent. I also have a lead on a Daikin 18k unit at $1k not including lines etc. and a brother in law to help install... although I'd like to avoid using the in-laws and out-laws in business transactions, if you know what I mean!

So here are the details for my shop:

24'x24' brick on an sides
12' ceiling - insulated and sheet-rocked
Insulated and sheet-rocked
10'x16' garage door insulated faces north
One window west side and one window east side (double pane sash type)
One walk out steel door on east side
No windows on south side

I use the shop for auto resto hobby etc. mostly weekends and some evenings.

I typically don't run the AC unless it's hot an when I'm in the shop. I have an LG 15k 10 EER 110 window unit that does OK but runs most of the time when it's 95 out.

I think running a split unit on low when not in the shop and turning it up or down when I'm in there would work and not be too costly...

I don't want to over or undersize this... any advice out there?

 

[justinjoyal]

Insulation R. Values needed ! Your location as well. Floor? Uninsulated slab?

 

[HotrodHR]

Insulation R. Values needed ! Your location as well. Floor? Uninsulated slab?

Located in Huntsville, AL zip 35756 near Tennessee southern border. Zone 3 on climate map above the white (warm-humid) dividing line in zone 3.

Interior square footage is actually 529 (23x23) with 12 foot ceiling.

Garage was built same time as house. Insulation is probably R-13 craftfaced (2x4) studs. Sheetrocked, finished including baseboards. Ceiling has blown in insulation at least 6 - 10" above joists. Exterior walls are full brick over plywood (OSB) with vapor wrap.

Floor is uninsulated - has vapor barrier, 6" plus concrete with 5" perimeter curb.

10x16 garage door with 1" reflective backed foam added.

Two double hung 36"x58" double pane windows (same as home); one steel walk out door.

Garage door faces north, 1 window and walk out door on east side, 1 window on west, and none on south side.

 

[Browneye]

Since you're not living in it and sounds like good insulation, I'd say a 1-ton unit would do it very well. We have one in our master suite end of the house, very moderate insulation, about 400sf. During 100* days it's as chilly in there as you could want it. ;-)
For a garage/shop I think you would be good.

It was my second one, so becoming more familiar with them I opted for a scratch-n-dent one from Ingrams for about $800. It's been phenomenal - Love these things.

 

[jjrbus]

Not an AC tech, but if I had a 15k LG unit that was doing ok, I would not trust the 6300 btu estimate! Something is not right there??

Has the Lg unit been cleaned, filter and coils. Is it newer putting out what it should?

 

[PoorOwner]

One time on the phone with ecomfort, I gave my garage information, he told me I only need like 6000 BTU for almost 700 sq ft. It may maintain on a warm day but 6000 BTU would definitely not pull down the temp.

 

[HotrodHR]

Not an AC tech, but if I had a 15k LG unit that was doing ok, I would not trust the 6300 btu estimate! Something is not right there??

Has the Lg unit been cleaned, filter and coils. Is it newer putting out what it should?

I thought that the 6300 Btu was way off and wouldn't have even considered a unit rated that low.

The LG is going 6 years old. I clean the coils out annually and the inside filter as needed. I think it just lacks efficiency at 10.8 EER and the fact that it's a window unit. It does cool the place down even on super hot days... just runs most of the time.

 

[HotrodHR]

Since you're not living in it and sounds like good insulation, I'd say a 1-ton unit would do it very well. We have one in our master suite end of the house, very moderate insulation, about 400sf. During 100* days it's as chilly in there as you could want it. ;-)
For a garage/shop I think you would be good.

It was my second one, so becoming more familiar with them I opted for a scratch-n-dent one from Ingrams for about $800. It's been phenomenal - Love these things.

I'll check out the scratch and dent... thanks.

 

[jjrbus]

I thought that the 6300 Btu was way off and wouldn't have even considered a unit rated that low.

The LG is going 6 years old. I clean the coils out annually and the inside filter as needed. I think it just lacks efficiency at 10.8 EER and the fact that it's a window unit. It does cool the place down even on super hot days... just runs most of the time.

Long story, but running most of the time in humid areas is a very good thing! Too short of running time and they do not dehumidify.

Minis are new and there are many things that are not common knowledge with them. An inverter mini "modulates" a 12K mini actually operates between 3-13k btu. An 18k operates from 7-23k btu. The higher the btu output the more efficient the unit is. I do not know the specific numbers for Mr Cool these are generic numbers.

 

[Browneye]

We had a window unit in our end of the house where we put our 1-ton MrCool. It was a 6400btu unit and kept things pretty cool, but yeah, it ran 24/7 when it was hot out, and could not keep up on really hot days. In so-cal it's less of an issue because it almost always cools off at night so you can sleep.

For a shop a split is great because if you leave it on it pretty much goes to sleep once temp is reached - the air handler still turns very slowly, but the outside compressor unit shuts down.

I would not choose this option primarily for heat. They work fine, but my take, my opinion, is their greatest asset is cooling.

One other thing to note is they make a LOT of condensate water. So yeah, you do need to drain it for sure, but also consider where all that water will go. How many times have you seen a commercial building with a roof drain and water running across the parking lot? You don't want that at your house - so into a drain, catch basin, garden, or some place that disposes of the water. Our 2-ton unit puts out almost four gallons a day when it's humid. That is a LOT of water! We catch it in a watering can for the patio shrubs and garden.

The other nice function is the wireless feature and your smartphone. So for a shop, you can modulate your functions with your phone - you don't even have to be onsite.

 

[HotrodHR]

We had a window unit in our end of the house where we put our 1-ton MrCool. It was a 6400btu unit and kept things pretty cool, but yeah, it ran 24/7 when it was hot out, and could not keep up on really hot days. In so-cal it's less of an issue because it almost always cools off at night so you can sleep.

For a shop a split is great because if you leave it on it pretty much goes to sleep once temp is reached - the air handler still turns very slowly, but the outside compressor unit shuts down.

I would not choose this option primarily for heat. They work fine, but my take, my opinion, is their greatest asset is cooling.

One other thing to note is they make a LOT of condensate water. So yeah, you do need to drain it for sure, but also consider where all that water will go. How many times have you seen a commercial building with a roof drain and water running across the parking lot? You don't want that at your house - so into a drain, catch basin, garden, or some place that disposes of the water. Our 2-ton unit puts out almost four gallons a day when it's humid. That is a LOT of water! We catch it in a watering can for the patio shrubs and garden.

The other nice function is the wireless feature and your smartphone. So for a shop, you can modulate your functions with your phone - you don't even have to be onsite.

Thanks for your input... the main reasons for wanting a mini spit are: reduce the noise the window unit makes, better performance and efficiency, and a source of some heat to cut the chill in winter. Since it's not living space I think the unit will work ok. Although I have a flat screen hanging on the wall I'm out there working and not just hanging out.

 

[HotrodHR]

JustinJoyal... please weigh in on the sizing. I know the default answer would be 18k Btu but I'm thinking the 12k would be ok. I have open 110 circuit to an outdoor plug I could dedicate to this and I could avoid running a new 220 line (have a 220 line for my compressor).

 

[justinjoyal]

Sent you a PM.

 

[Baydog]

I put in a 2 ton MrCool minisplit heat pump two seasons ago. Simple to install as long as you follow the directions. If you have extra precharged lines, try to arrange them so as not to create low spots that any refrigerant oil could be trapped in. Likely not an issie, but a good practice.
During the second heating season (after going through 2 cooling seasons) a leak developed in the coils of the indoor section. I purchased from Ingrams so I called them and the warranty service was outstanding. Sent a new unit with all the lines etc in 2 days. I switched it out and they even sent a prepaid UPS label to ship the bad one back. I wouldn't buy HVAC stuff anywhere else.

 

[justinjoyal]

I put in a 2 ton MrCool minisplit heat pump two seasons ago. Simple to install as long as you follow the directions. If you have extra precharged lines, try to arrange them so as not to create low spots that any refrigerant oil could be trapped in. Likely not an issie, but a good practice.
During the second heating season (after going through 2 cooling seasons) a leak developed in the coils of the indoor section. I purchased from Ingrams so I called them and the warranty service was outstanding. Sent a new unit with all the lines etc in 2 days. I switched it out and they even sent a prepaid UPS label to ship the bad one back. I wouldn't buy HVAC stuff anywhere else.

How did you go about recovering refrigerant prior to replacing the indoor coil ?

 

[man00]

I put in a 2 ton MrCool minisplit heat pump two seasons ago. Simple to install as long as you follow the directions. If you have extra precharged lines, try to arrange them so as not to create low spots that any refrigerant oil could be trapped in. Likely not an issie, but a good practice.
During the second heating season (after going through 2 cooling seasons) a leak developed in the coils of the indoor section. I purchased from Ingrams so I called them and the warranty service was outstanding. Sent a new unit with all the lines etc in 2 days. I switched it out and they even sent a prepaid UPS label to ship the bad one back. I wouldn't buy HVAC stuff anywhere else.

I thought Ingrams wouldn't warranty anything unless a pro did the install?
Maybe that's only heatpumps..ect

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

How did you go about recovering refrigerant prior to replacing the indoor coil ?

I was thinking the same thing, but at the same time, if it's leaking - it's leaking.

Can I install a split in the basement and have the unit above grade outside?
Same sort of situation, I install on 1st floor but the outdoor unit is roof install of 1st floor right by a 2nd floor installation?

Basically, do the linesets need to run downhill or can they go uphill?

 

[justinjoyal]

I was thinking the same thing, but at the same time, if it's leaking - it's leaking.



Can I install a split in the basement and have the unit above grade outside?

Same sort of situation, I install on 1st floor but the outdoor unit is roof install of 1st floor right by a 2nd floor installation?



Basically, do the linesets need to run downhill or can they go uphill?

The drain needs gravity, or a pump!

 

[Browneye]

Condensate pumps are very popular for all types of AC installations. No issues there.

Ingrams will warranty any DIY MRCool unit installed by a DIY'r. It states so right on the printed warranty certificate. Gee, that's why we chose it!

Wow.