Mudding Drywall in "cold" weather

[JRC3]

Thank you all for the advice. Seems the porter cable is no longer sold. I have heard they are expensive too so not sure I could justify that. Sounds like I will be getting an arm workout!

I will for sure post pictures once the shop has some paint on it. Cant wait!

You can rent them. I have what I think is a Festool knockoff. Been a great tool. I just use it with my Rigid vacuum, just be sure to run a bag in it...Always run a bag no matter what.

I bought it like 5 years ago and it has quite a bit of use on it. Doesn't seem like they offer it anymore but their ore others available.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=aleko+drywall&_osacat=0 Disc are easily available if you have a Menards.

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Don't sweat those non-staggered joints, just about everyone has done it before they knew the correct way, no matter what they say. ha[/URL]

 

[Boogerman]

You doing okay. Internet poor place get drywall advice, everybody expert, have own way. Not worry stagger joint, can do, not necessary, not affect job done well.

I break all rules given here my garage. Long joints, never stagger. **** joints easy tape, 16" wide, 3 coat, no real difficult. Heavy texture garage wall & ceiling, smooth, not rough, splatter on. More durable scratch/impacts. Use pre-mix mud. Tape anytime won't freeze in 3 days. No sanding. Use gloss paint. I get no problems not stick or fail later. No dirt stick; I saw, grind, etc all time. Good quality gloss paint, no dirt stick. Flat paint, dirt stick easy. No see any joints, screws, problems; good taper worker no worry about long lines, not stagger joints, cover screws/joints/problems, that what mud for. Almost no sand, maybe 1 hour total 3 coats, 2000 sf garage, full finish, 14 feet tall. Good taper not put on extra mud sand off! Hardest thing teach new drywall guy; ignore magic stuff, just concentrate put right amount mud on, make smoother each coat, no put on to later sand off.

Not first time this work; been doing more 35 yrs, own & commercial jobs. No secrets; look up 3 step drywall finish, US gypsum instructions, not internet garbage, amateur hour. Pro's not do mumbo jumbo, do nice smooth commercial job, pay attention smooth, even job each coat; not sand & try cover poor dull paint job. Old time drywall guys good way learn; also good crew los muchachos working per sheet rate; they good. Watch how they do.

 

[jpaw]

My walls are 12ft so I bought 12ft sheetrock and hung it vertically so that 90% of my seams are factory with very few **** joints.
It's my garage and I wanted to make it as quick and painless as possible. Don't care what anyone thinks it's a garage not a showroom.
Hell, even thought about just caulking the seams and painting it but just couldn't do it.

 

[Git]

I textured my garage wall with this electric Wagner sprayer and then just as it was drying, I went over it with a rubber knock down knife - sort of like a window squeegee. Painted it with satin paint - never had a problem with dust sticking

 

[BarnBuiltBeaters]

Figured I would update you guys with how the shop is going. Got one wall completely mudded and sanded. The rest of the shop has 2 coats except for the ceiling. This is taking a lot longer than I anticipated so I needed some motivation and decided to prime and paint a wall. Oh boy! looks so good. Even in primer it looked good!
My mudding work seems to be pretty good. Not perfect but respectable for my first time. I noticed I have lots of small little air pockets in the mud. Is this from not mixing it well enough? Applying too thick? I may fill these in if they bother me enough
I want some input here. Should I paint the entire ship this color or leave just this one wall as an accent color? I love the color but it might be too much of it on every wall.

Overall happy with the work I have done so far and this painted wall is exactly what I needed to keep going and not cut corners.

Nice thing about wanting to epoxy the floors is I don't have to be too careful about droppings!

 

[couch67]

Figured I would update you guys with how the shop is going. Got one wall completely mudded and sanded. The rest of the shop has 2 coats except for the ceiling. This is taking a lot longer than I anticipated so I needed some motivation and decided to prime and paint a wall. Oh boy! looks so good. Even in primer it looked good!
My mudding work seems to be pretty good. Not perfect but respectable for my first time. I noticed I have lots of small little air pockets in the mud. Is this from not mixing it well enough? Applying too thick? I may fill these in if they bother me enough
I want some input here. Should I paint the entire ship this color or leave just this one wall as an accent color? I love the color but it might be too much of it on every wall.

Overall happy with the work I have done so far and this painted wall is exactly what I needed to keep going and not cut corners.

Nice thing about wanting to epoxy the floors is I don't have to be too careful about droppings!

looking good! For the air bubbles, just go over them with a small bit of mud to fill them in. They can be caused by mixing the mud too much, but some bubbles are going to be normal. Typcially you only need to do this on the last coat. I'd just focus on areas that are bad, and in the most conspicuous areas.

If you are talking about air bubbles under tape, that's a different problem and means there is a 'dry spot' where there was no mud between the drywall and the tape, or too much was squeezed out with the taping knife. You can fix those by waiting for the mud to dry, then cut out the air bubble with a knife, and fill with mud.

As for colour, I agree it looks good but might be too much on all the walls, but there will be a lot of mixed opinions on that.

 

[mike93lx]

Looking good.

Make sure you get as many imperfections sorted before primer and paint. They will stand out a lot more if you paint and will be way harder to deal with. A light held at a low angle to the wall will really make issues pop out

 

[BarnBuiltBeaters]

I will be going over the worse sections and filling them in if it bothers me enough. The bubbles are on the top coat not under the tape! so we are good there!
Overall pretty happy with how the wall turned out for my first drywall job. My corners are where I need the most improvement but sections of them are very good while other sections could use some improvement. I am sure some simple sanding would square them up better. However they are up 10ft in the air so cant see those details from on the ground floor!

 

[mike93lx]

I will be going over the worse sections and filling them in if it bothers me enough. The bubbles are on the top coat not under the tape! so we are good there!
Overall pretty happy with how the wall turned out for my first drywall job. My corners are where I need the most improvement but sections of them are very good while other sections could use some improvement. I am sure some simple sanding would square them up better. However they are up 10ft in the air so cant see those details from on the ground floor!

Corners ****. They really get away from you if your mudding isn't on point. Trying to sand them back is almost impossible

 

[Renegade1LI]

Thin out the mud for the last coat, you'll get rid of the air bubbles & it's much easier to feather.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Hey, we all have to learn (to never do drywall again...)

Using fast set mud (even the 90 min stuff), would help a lot over the premix, but I get the intimidation factor

The first coat should be with fast set mud.

 

[mike93lx]

The first coat should be with fast set mud.

Any coat can be done with any mud. Fast set saves a massive amount of time though

 

[Renegade1LI]

The first coat should be with fast set mud.

I built a thousand homes, tapers all used general purpose compound. If you need to speed things up it’s one thing but otherwise no need.

 

[JRC3]

A newb should be using premixed bucket mud. Properly mixing powder and cleaning things up afterwards for one reason.

One thing about bucket mud...You do need to add a bit of water to thin it. This will make it much easier to work with and help with those bubbles and air pockets.

 

[duneslider]

Any coat can be done with any mud. Fast set saves a massive amount of time though

Only if you are fast enough for it to matter I'm so slow it doesn't matter what mud I use, it all dries fast enough.

 

[mike93lx]

Only if you are fast enough for it to matter I'm so slow it doesn't matter what mud I use, it all dries fast enough.

90 min mud give you tons of time to work with and can allow a few coats to be done in a single day, vs one coat per day. You need to have lots of time on your hands to do bucket mud for a multi coat job, but it works fine for many.

I get in a bit of a groove with stuff like this and find it's better to keep going vs taking a day or more off between. I started only using bucket mud but now will go straight to hot mud for anything more than one coat.

All that said, drywall work *****.

 

[JRC3]

All that said, drywall work *****.

I'm a very seasoned remodeler and am pretty darn good with drywall...Still, I will agree with this statement 100%. It is my absolute least favorite.

 

[BarnBuiltBeaters]

Seems the general coconscious is that drywall *****. I will vote that too. I don't mind the actually application of mud (besides corners) but the sanding is brutal.

I did use water in the premixed stuff which helps.

Has anyone used the dawn dish soap method? what are the benefits?

 

[mike93lx]

Never used it, but I believe it is to make it smoother?

For a final coat, I have watered down premix and rolled on a thin coat. Scrape away excess after rolling. It kills any texture from the drywall in bare areas and can really smooth a wall out

 

[Toomanytools?]

Did you you use fiber tape or paper? When doing inside corners do one side at a time, let it dry and do the other. When filling nail/screw holes fill all holes in a continuous pass, it is faster and when you sand doesn't fuzz the paper. The thing with staggered joints is so seams are less visible but also to strengthen the wall.
Hey live and learn. I think all dark walls might be too much in the garage, but does look good.

 

[mike93lx]

Did you you use fiber tape or paper? When doing inside corners do one side at a time, let it dry and do the other. When filling nail/screw holes fill all holes in a continuos pass, it is faster and when you sand doesn't fuzz the paper. The thing with staggered joints is so seams are less visible but also to strengthen the wall.
Hey live and learn. I think all dark walls might be too much in the garage, but does look good.

Fiber requires hot mud.

I use paper with premix and fiber with hot, except corners which I always use paper for.

That said, I hate drywall and am no pro

 

[Renegade1LI]

Seems the general coconscious is that drywall *****. I will vote that too. I don't mind the actually application of mud (besides corners) but the sanding is brutal.

I did use water in the premixed stuff which helps.

Has anyone used the dawn dish soap method? what are the benefits?

Every drywaller I had stay stoned pretty much the whole day, I can'r blame them either.

 

[mike93lx]

Every drywaller I had stay stoned pretty much the whole day, I can'r blame them either.

****. I knew I was missing something

 

[USNretired]

Buy the green buckets and not the blue…

Green shrinks too much. The blue top is fine. Green is a great for taping and applying texture because the formula USG uses makes it stick to almost anything and it will **** the tape right into the joints as it dries.

Green is excellent for knock down and taping and paper corner beads.

Been in the business for 35 years and "green top" is my go to mud for texture and taping.

 

[USNretired]

I am in the process of mudding my garage. I have to take off the garage door to finish mudding. Being in NY the weather is starting to warm up and then get cold again at night (60deg day/ 40 deg night). According to google you arent supposed to mud below 55ish. what happens if I apply mud during these temps? I know curing time will be longer which I am okay with. But once it gets below 55, will it not cure at all or only once it is above 55 again?

90% of the mudding I will be doing with the door on and the heat cranked!

Thanks!

The biggest problem with cold temps is shouldering on your edges because the mud is drying into the board instead of the surrounding atmosphere. It's best when you have it drying both ways. But it's not a deal breaker if you pay attention to your skim coat and if you had the patience to let the bed coat dry really well before skimming. I have had quite a few GC project managers demanding my crews to skim a wet base coat and I just looked at them and smiled and made a phone call to their main office. I don't put mud on the walls in high humidity combined with cold air, or under 50 degrees period. I make sure I include it in my scope of work in my bids.

A electric heater helps, but avoid Propane and Kerosene because they add water to the air in the space, which can really screw up the
drying time of the mud you have already put on the walls and ceilings. Every edge and lap mark will stand out big time.

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[BarnBuiltBeaters]

Hey all I make youtube videos documenting my process on my shop and my truck when I begin working on it again. I made a video of mudding/painting part of my shop. Feel free to check it out and please subscribe if you find it interesting. Let me know if you guys have any questions and I will always take some constructive criticism both on the video and the shop. Thanks for watching!

Update: Well I opened the garage door and with different lighting than the shop lights, I can for sure see the seems on the wall. Going to try to sand them down and/or add mud to minimize the seems. Most of the time the door wont be open due to having AC so I wont see these often. I like to make things as perfect as I can so I hope I can fix or minimize the issue. Whole entire project is a learning experience and I now know how to improve for the next shop!

Once again thanks for all the advice/help!

 

[couch67]

Yes, light from a window or door that rakes along the wall is very unforgiving and highlights all of your mistakes ! One thing I learned after many renovations is to finish drywall with light (not too bright) raking the side of the wall you are finishing. And if you can afford the time, get a coat of primer on it when you are happy with things and wait a week or so and see how it looks with light in different times of the day. You can always fan out a seam or fix imperfections then. Not so important in a shop but in an open dining room / kitchen, worth the time!

 

[no704]

I have already found that out haha! I am in no time rush so 90 min isn't a big deal. Also I am slow at sloping it onto the walls haha.

What is the difference? They both say all purpose. I originally bought green but each time I go back to get another bucket, they are out of one of the other.

I need a drill first! I have been working on things for a long long time but never investing in a drill. It is so uncommon I need one I can never justify it. But when I do need one I wish I had bought one!
I am learning to do thinner layers. My results are getting much better and smoother so hopefully less sanding!

Not too worried about visual lines. I mean do I want them? no obviously. But I am just happy I tried and improved a skill I didn't have previously.
About being on TV....I am filming most of this on and putting it on Youtube. Channel will be focus around the truck not the shop but figured Id start filming and editing to build up another skill!

If I am going to cover up my mistakes with cabinets why fix them then thanks for the help!

Just saw a harbor freight ad with a drill especially for this, like $50 I think.

 

[Fasthotrod]

I didn't stagger because I didn't know I was supposed to. This is my first time tackling it and making mistakes is how you learn. Found that out more than half way through and not going to redo it.

Ain't that the truth? My father in law says that we learn by doing, and along the way we figure a few things out that makes us better at it.

I did the same thing in my office. I also hung the drywall up/down because I figured that's how it's done. My father in law pointed out that I could have laid them sideways and staggered the joints, and the wall would likely come out looking better.

Well ****... I never thought of that. <facepalm>

So I'm right there with ya, partner. I'm not tearing it all out at this point.

Nice Ford truck you've got there. Looks like a fun project!

 

[mike93lx]

Just saw a harbor freight ad with a drill especially for this, like $50 I think.

I've mixed a good amount of mud and thinset with a harbor freight d handle low speed drill

 

[BarnBuiltBeaters]

Yes, light from a window or door that rakes along the wall is very unforgiving and highlights all of your mistakes ! One thing I learned after many renovations is to finish drywall with light (not too bright) raking the side of the wall you are finishing. And if you can afford the time, get a coat of primer on it when you are happy with things and wait a week or so and see how it looks with light in different times of the day. You can always fan out a seam or fix imperfections then. Not so important in a shop but in an open dining room / kitchen, worth the time!

I should have waited a bit longer but i just was eager to get paint on the wall! I think I can knock it down and make it look a bit better and/or fan it out. Just sick of doing mud work. plus that means more sanding...ick
Thanks for the advice!

Just saw a harbor freight ad with a drill especially for this, like $50 I think.

I actually just bought a new Milwaukee drill off amazon for 80 dollars (M12). huge Milwuakee guy so hard not to buy them haha

Ain't that the truth? My father in law says that we learn by doing, and along the way we figure a few things out that makes us better at it.

I did the same thing in my office. I also hung the drywall up/down because I figured that's how it's done. My father in law pointed out that I could have laid them sideways and staggered the joints, and the wall would likely come out looking better.

Well ****... I never thought of that. <facepalm>

So I'm right there with ya, partner. I'm not tearing it all out at this point.

Nice Ford truck you've got there. Looks like a fun project!

I actually think hanging it up/down may be better as the longer sides of the drywall boards are lightly tapered allowing you to get a seamless finish. But I'll let the drywall pros comment on that!

We definitely learn by doing. You can only read/watch so much stuff and eventually just have to try yourself and build up your skill set. This is why I am generally willing to tackle things myself. Plus you also save a bunch of money! but in exchange for time... ha!

I've mixed a good amount of mud and thinset with a harbor freight d handle low speed drill

I will try the new M12 Milwaukee drill I picked up to mix some of it. I dont mind using the tap knife though!



To all, thank you for watching the vid and also for all the help. now onto the next issue and another wall!

 

[mike93lx]

will try the new M12 Milwaukee drill I picked up to mix some of it. I dont mind using the tap knife though!

I would advise against that. But if you doz really pay attention to how warm the drill gets

Mixing puts a lot of strain on a drill.