Multimeter Help - 87V or 117

[nezzman]

Hey all,

I am looking to upgrade my DMM which is currently a Klein MM400.

I was initially looking at the Fluke 117, though after some research, the 87V seems to be quite popular.

My question is, which am I better off going for?
I won’t be using it professionally, though I would like to try and future proof, feature wise.

I have needed a multimeter to test capacitors, resistors, diagnose car issues, measure current draw on appliances, continuity tests, check windings on motors….

The price difference is £40, though the 87V is used, the 117 is new. Both come with leads and a case.

117 £220
87v £260

Is the 87v worth the extra money for my uses as a DIY fix it myself type? Maybe the 117 is overkill too!!

Thanks

 

[Innovate1]

Looks like they both have a pretty good set of features and both are true RMS meters so I don't see much difference for the basic things you plan to use it for. I just googled for a comparison:

https://multimetertools.com/fluke-117-vs-87v/

 

[garfunkle24]

You don't need fluke. I own a bunch of Fluke stuff to use professionally and even in that case they're a pretty poor value proposition. I would just find a Bryman or Uni-T meter that has all the capabilities you need. Other stuff that's nice to have (besides the functions you require):

AA/AAA batteries instead of 9v
Non-proprietary/cheap/easily replaceable fuses
If you do have to open anything for access, metal inserts for the screws.

Save what you can on the meter (within reason) and spend the difference on leads, alligator clips, piercing and back probes etc

I have an 87v and 88v amongst other Fluke tools. It annoys the **** out of me when I have to take off the protector and turn out ****** screws from ****** plastic holes with no inserts on an expensive *** meter to change a fuse I just paid $20 for the privilege of owning.

With Fluke stuff it's not that they tend to have more features or in most cases greater accuracy. What you are more paying for is "measurement confidence" and if we're honest about it also the impression I give my customer when I walk on site with a Fluke instead of a Cheng Qwan meter. Should it matter? No. Does it? A bit, yeah.

 

[nezzman]

Thanks for the replies.

You don't need fluke. I own a bunch of Fluke stuff to use professionally and even in that case they're a pretty poor value proposition. I would just find a Bryman or Uni-T meter that has all the capabilities you need. Other stuff that's nice to have (besides the functions you require):

AA/AAA batteries instead of 9v
Non-proprietary/cheap/easily replaceable fuses
If you do have to open anything for access, metal inserts for the screws.

Save what you can on the meter (within reason) and spend the difference on leads, alligator clips, piercing and back probes etc

I have an 87v and 88v amongst other Fluke tools. It annoys the **** out of me when I have to take off the protector and turn out ****** screws from ****** plastic holes with no inserts on an expensive *** meter to change a fuse I just paid $20 for the privilege of owning.

With Fluke stuff it's not that they tend to have more features or in most cases greater accuracy. What you are more paying for is "measurement confidence" and if we're honest about it also the impression I give my customer when I walk on site with a Fluke instead of a Cheng Qwan meter. Should it matter? No. Does it? A bit, yeah.

I get what you mean. I kind of want a fluke meter, well, just because it’s a fluke and I enjoy using good tools. My Klein MM400 does it’s job so far, I might just save the coin, and buy better leads and some crocodile clips. Those would have come in handy a number of times!

I know about fuses, I have blown one on my Klein meter by forgetting to switch the leads…

Looks like they both have a pretty good set of features and both are true RMS meters so I don't see much difference for the basic things you plan to use it for. I just googled for a comparison:

https://multimetertools.com/fluke-117-vs-87v/

True, I guess I will just be using it for the basics. If I was to get one, I guess the 117 more than fits the bill.

 

[garfunkle24]

Your reasoning for a Fluke meter was pretty much the same as mine! Nothing wrong with that. Probably the 117 then unless you really need True RMS. Don't think it measures down to micro amps but not many people outside of an electronics specialty would need that.

 

[nezzman]

Your reasoning for a Fluke meter was pretty much the same as mine! Nothing wrong with that. Probably the 117 then unless you really need True RMS. Don't think it measures down to micro amps but not many people outside of an electronics specialty would need that.

Need vs want haha

The 117 does True RMS.

Feature wise, the 87v does m amps, the 117 doesn’t, but it does have LoZ which would be useful.

I actually think my Klein meter does m amps!

 

[garfunkle24]

My mistake, I didn't realise the 117 was a True RMS meter.

All my meters do µA but pretty sure I've never needed it.

LoZ may be handy for you. I don't pay much attention as I only really work on DC auto/machinery stuff with a sprinkling of AC on generators/light towers and some electric forklifts and jacks with AC motors.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You don't need fluke. I own a bunch of Fluke stuff to use professionally and even in that case they're a pretty poor value proposition. I would just find a Bryman or Uni-T meter that has all the capabilities you need. Other stuff that's nice to have (besides the functions you require):

AA/AAA batteries instead of 9v
Non-proprietary/cheap/easily replaceable fuses
If you do have to open anything for access, metal inserts for the screws.

Save what you can on the meter (within reason) and spend the difference on leads, alligator clips, piercing and back probes etc

I have an 87v and 88v amongst other Fluke tools. It annoys the **** out of me when I have to take off the protector and turn out ****** screws from ****** plastic holes with no inserts on an expensive *** meter to change a fuse I just paid $20 for the privilege of owning.

With Fluke stuff it's not that they tend to have more features or in most cases greater accuracy. What you are more paying for is "measurement confidence" and if we're honest about it also the impression I give my customer when I walk on site with a Fluke instead of a Cheng Qwan meter. Should it matter? No. Does it? A bit, yeah.

how often are you replacing fuses? ive never had to replace a fuse in any fluke meter ive ever owned including an 87V i bought in 2006

 

[HenryAZ]

If you stick with your Klein or decide on a Fluke, check out Probemaster modular silicone test leads and plug in accessories.

 

[dogdog]

look for functions, I don't find the fluke offer better options than others of the same category... but most of all it depenents on what you are troubleshooting... All meters will have AMP/Volt/Resistance/Capacitance not many offers frequency, which is need for most sensor troubleshooting these days if you are working on cars or some weird fields. and both seems to **** at only .05mhz and .2mhz which ***** when lots of other sensors operates in MHZs... dunno many if you are going to just buy for the name... for for any one, for home owner... it doesn't matter... most likely you are not going to max use any of the functions... other than a talking piece at hand. Hey I got a fluke... most don't even know what RMS means let alone why True RMS... lol seen few of those post.

 

[dogdog]

how often are you replacing fuses? ive never had to replace a fuse in any fluke meter ive ever owned including an 87V i bought in 2006

that doesn't mean anything, that means you know how to properly use your meter. and not fry it in measuring volts in AMP setting or volt in resistances setting etc. I fry my ExTech 470 which was also relable as Sears Pro model... and guess what I did, I poke something in the wrong setting . haven't fried any since. but I have always look at that meter funny now with distrust.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Hey, I got a Fluke. One of the 802x series rebranded for IBM. It's big, i used it daily. it's clunky, it doesn't do things, it's got moods. So I spent very little money on Amazon for one of the AstroAI meters. It does all the tricks, and checks out about as accurate as the Fluke.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091FCWMP1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[BillK]

Just curious what your MM400 wont do that you think the others will ? I have a MM400 that I use at my business and cannot imagine needing anything else for what you are doing.

 

[nezzman]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

After taking them all into consideration, I think I will just stick with my Klein meter.

The only thing the Fluke 117 has that I could see being useful is the LoZ feature, other than that, my Klein seems to do what I need it to do so far.

 

[Max]

Looks like they both have a pretty good set of features and both are true RMS meters so I don't see much difference for the basic things you plan to use it for. I just googled for a comparison:

https://multimetertools.com/fluke-117-vs-87v/

Pretty sure there is a typo on that page - the 87 will not work at 1090 deg C. And if that’s a thermocouple rating it still seems rather high…

 

[wyliesdiesels]

that doesn't mean anything, that means you know how to properly use your meter. and not fry it in measuring volts in AMP setting or volt in resistances setting etc. I fry my ExTech 470 which was also relable as Sears Pro model... and guess what I did, I poke something in the wrong setting . haven't fried any since. but I have always look at that meter funny now with distrust.

Thats because i use a clamp meter for measuring amps!

 

[theoldwizard1]

My Klein MM400 does it’s job so far, I might just save the coin, and buy better leads and some crocodile clips. Those would have come in handy a number of times!

By far, a better choice !

Pomona is owned by Fluke and the make some great set of leads and clips. They are excellent quality, but they are very expensive ! Make sure to get a pair of wire piercing probes. They are worth the $$$/£££ ! Also purchase a pair of "extension" leads, at least 6'/2m long.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Thats because i use a clamp meter for measuring amps!

I have a UNI-T UT210E clamp meter. It reads to 100A AC and DC.

 

[RPH]

Pretty sure there is a typo on that page - the 87 will not work at 1090 deg C. And if that’s a thermocouple rating it still seems rather high…

Thermocouples go quite high in temperature ranges. Depends on what needs measuring. K and J types are what I mainly used.

 

[garfunkle24]

how often are you replacing fuses? ive never had to replace a fuse in any fluke meter ive ever owned including an 87V i bought in 2006

Not often. It happens. Sometimes I goof and assume the current will be less than 10A and it isn't. Sometimes some dipshit randomly turns headlights on while I'm checking for a parasitic draw. Maybe you're using a meter correctly and I'm an untrained chimp trying to check starter motor cranking current with my meter. Either that or I spend likely 60% of my day, everyday, working on electrical diagnostics and repair and **** just happens. I have both low and high range DC amp clamps and could measure with a shunt resistor too if I cared to, but they don't work too well when you're chasing a 200mA draw.

I guess multimeter manufacturers could forgo fuses if it wasn't for simpletons like me.

 

[no704]

I have a couple of Fuke meters, and a crew of the higher end Harbor Freight ones. The hf ones work fine and have more functions. Fluke stays in business because mil spec and iso 9001 etc work instructions say to use them.

 

[garfunkle24]

Make sure to get a pair of wire piercing probes.

And maybe some liquid electrical tape to go with those
Back or front probe when possible, stab when necessary!

 

[Mzungu]

The 87V is a great meter. For most of my work I use a 1587 and a 317. The 317 is my go to clamp meter as it does ac and dc amps, its basically a simpler version of the 325.

 

[75gmck25]

I used to think cheap meters were probably fine for my hobby work until I picked up a tach/dwell meter from Harbor freight. I believe it was this model. https://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html

I don't know if the dwell part worked right, but the tachometer was off by about 600 rpm with my SBC V8 engine. I took it back and got a replacement, and it had exactly the same error in rpm. When I then said I wanted a refund they reduced my refund by the restocking fee because I was returning electronic test equipment and they had no way to verify whether it was broken/faulty. I was so tired of it all that I didn't even bother to argue with them.

I bought an Innova meter instead and never had any issues.

 

[908Jim]

You don't need fluke. I own a bunch of Fluke stuff to use professionally and even in that case they're a pretty poor value proposition. I would just find a Bryman or Uni-T meter that has all the capabilities you need. Other stuff that's nice to have (besides the functions you require):

AA/AAA batteries instead of 9v
Non-proprietary/cheap/easily replaceable fuses
If you do have to open anything for access, metal inserts for the screws.

Save what you can on the meter (within reason) and spend the difference on leads, alligator clips, piercing and back probes etc

I have an 87v and 88v amongst other Fluke tools. It annoys the **** out of me when I have to take off the protector and turn out ****** screws from ****** plastic holes with no inserts on an expensive *** meter to change a fuse I just paid $20 for the privilege of owning.

With Fluke stuff it's not that they tend to have more features or in most cases greater accuracy. What you are more paying for is "measurement confidence" and if we're honest about it also the impression I give my customer when I walk on site with a Fluke instead of a Cheng Qwan meter. Should it matter? No. Does it? A bit, yeah.

Emphasis on the bold/underline: Not all Uni-T meters are created equal. Two similar Uni-T models may have wildly different safety feature implementations (input protection, namely), with some being an incredible value and others leaving you wondering how they can possibly achieve their stated CAT rating.

Wander to EEVBlog and look at the UT61E+ vs the UT161E+. Very similar meters, but the more expensive one is certified by intertek and has vastly improved input protection. I don't need to worry about a Fluke or Brymen legitimately meeting its claimed safety rating.

 

[Citation]

OP, I think you made the right choice. Of the two you mentioned, I would have picked the 87V. I really like Fluke meters and I've owned a number of them. I rarely suggest them.

I will say, with most Fluke meters it's not just the feature set and the confidence (and safety). It's also little things like the very responsive continuity check and on the 87 (but not the 117) the great touch-hold feature.

OK, the fast continuity check is something the EEVblog guys talk about. It's effectively how long do you have to wait for a continuity beep. Dave Jones will demonstrate this by quickly (look at about 9:00 on the video below). The touch-hold feature is another one I really love. Most meters with a hold feature freeze the display when you press the button. That doesn't help if you don't have a free hand to push the button. With TH you push the button then touch the probes. Once the reading is stable the meter beeps. Then you pull the probes way and look at the reading. Very handy under the car hood where sometimes it's hard enough to get the probes where you want them.

Fluke also seems to do a great job balancing usability with features. This includes a good backlight, easy to read display (though the latest models are not as good as the older ones - see the 87-5 vs 87-3) and tones that are loud enough but not too loud (or too quiet... looking at you Agilent). Anyway, the 87V is great but so expensive. I normally suggest people look at Brymen based meters instead. They don't have touchhold but they are otherwise very good. Also, for the same price as the 117 (which doesn't have touchhold thus I don't recommend it) you can get a similar sized Brymen that has more features, is just as safe, uses the same fuses (they aren't just for Flukes) but is generally a better meter for the same money. Cost is no object and you don't have a specific application need, get the 87V.

 

[captaindiode]

Also consider Probemaster for leads. USA made and nice quality at an affordable price.

DMM Multimeter Test Leads Made in USA | Probe Master

Probe Master manufacturers quality test leads for digital multimeters such as, spring loaded test leads, extendible test leads, automotive test leads for Fluke and many other multimeters. Made in USA

probemaster.com

 

[xjfish]

87V remains to be my daily. Great meter. I own others.

 

[ArcReactorKC]

The 87V has been the go to for many, many years. I own one but it almost never comes out of it's bag. Between my FC3000 and 233, I have all but replaced the 87V. The accessories function on the bluetooth meters is awesome. And the remote screen that doesn't require my phone is great on the 233.

Unless you need a specific feature of the 87V there are great Fluke meters for the money. The 87V pricing is propped up by every industrial maintenance department in the US.

 

[byoungblood]

I work on tube amps (100-800v DC inside them) and have forgotten to switch the meter out of the resistance range on my 87V on a couple of occasions and then go about testing a HV circuit. So far it has managed to survive every instance of my bungling.

Biggest difference between any quality meter and the cheap ones is input protection. I probably would have blown one of the cheap HF meters apart several times over by now.

If price is a big issue, just check the classifieds here every so often. I bought my 87V here 4-5 years ago for $125. It isn't pretty, but it isn't beat to **** either. Still my go to meter today. I have an 8012A as my bench multimeter for when I need to use two meters simultaneously.

For replacement leads, Probemaster can't be beat. Excellent quality, good price.