Multimeter reccommendations

[Davefr]

I can run the continuity checks on a 60-100 wire harness faster with an analog meter than with a digital. For continuity, you are looking only for a needle relative position and not an exact number. The analog will have the meter movement into the region long before the digital meter will even have the leading two numbers settled enough to read. With a good partner, we can do a harness about as fast as I can call out the pin numbers to him.
Should you be needed to have an exact number for diagnosis, then use the digital.

I run a Fluke 8050A on the bench at home and a Simpson 260 in the shop at home.

^I agree. However if you turn on beep mode you don't even need to look at the DMM when doing continuity tests.

Then there's the wonderful Autohold feature where the meter tells you when it captured the reading and will hold it for you until you get around to reading it.

 

[cvairwerks]

^I agree. However if you turn on beep mode you don't even need to look at the DMM when doing continuity tests.

Then there's the wonderful Autohold feature where the meter tells you when it captured the reading and will hold it for you until you get around to reading it.

Beep mode is fine for a quiet work area, but when you have as much noise around our hangar, it's not usable at all. A lot of times we have to turn the floor fans off just to be heard, without shouting, even though we may only be 8 feet apart. We get noise off our air conditioners, hydraulic mules, bleed air carts and running engines at times too.

We typically are working with harnesses over our heads and the meters laying on the floor, or on tool carts nearby. You don't want to turn loose of anything, as getting back to the last known location can be a hassle. Think 60 to 128, 22 gauge contacts in a 1 to 1.5" diameter circle....

 

[kythri]

If one is buying a used 87-V, anything they should check for?

 

[engineer2]

Another brand of multimeter worth looking at is Gossen Metrawatt, especially if you live in Europe.

 

[Davefr]

If one is buying a used 87-V, anything they should check for?

1. Power on self check
2. Crisp clear LCD segments - all of them
3. Working beep mode and backlight
4. Test the fuses. You can do this without opening the meter.
5. Inspect battery compartment for any corrosion.

Anything much more then this probably needs to be done by a Cal Lab. (and probably unnecessary)

 

[6PTsocket]

When I worked on the Grumman lunar module program we had cables like that. We used a Simpson 260 with one regular test lead and another that was maybe 20 ft long. But it was not noisy or we would have not been able to hear the pin call outs from the guy on the other end.

Beep mode is fine for a quiet work area, but when you have as much noise around our hangar, it's not usable at all. A lot of times we have to turn the floor fans off just to be heard, without shouting, even though we may only be 8 feet apart. We get noise off our air conditioners, hydraulic mules, bleed air carts and running engines at times too.

We typically are working with harnesses over our heads and the meters laying on the floor, or on tool carts nearby. You don't want to turn loose of anything, as getting back to the last known location can be a hassle. Think 60 to 128, 22 gauge contacts in a 1 to 1.5" diameter circle....[emoji38]_hitti

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[CR888]

I don't use a MM often but occasionally I need one for auto or small electric problems. I bought a Chinese special for like $15 at auction on EBay. It has true RMS, light, big screen, fuse, temp probe (I've used it for engine thermocouple spark plug washer) and a bunch of functions. I'm still learning the art of using it to be truthful. But at this point I don't regret not spending big bux on a trade spec fluke or whatever. Although I've heard its good to buy good testing probes instead of the cheap ones.

 

[Max]

I have a Fluke 115 and I love it. It always works and is always accurate. But we all have trade offs of quality and cost that we make. If I was working on just auto stuff a cheap DVM would be fine. If I was working on 120V stuff I'd be ok woth a better quality cheap DVM. But for anything above 120V I'd buy a Fluke. There are differences in fusing, protection, and certification and it's not worth risking your health or life.

BTW, I say this as someone who doesn't have a meter problem. . I have a couple of cheap DVMs, a nicer heathkit one, several VOMs, several VTVMs, and a half dozen reasonable to very high specification bench meters that include HP, Fluke, and Tek. But my 115 is the one I reach for first and the most...

 

[Citation]

Fluke is the gold standard. I've got several including a 187. For the OP I would suggest looking on eBay for a Matco 257. Great meter made by Brymen. They also make meters for Greenlee. Speaking of which, the Greenlee DM 820a is also a great meter. Either can be had of eBay in great shape for under $100. If Fluke is the rule go with something in the 170 range. The 11x meters don't have touch hold. The 87 is too expensive (but really good). You want capacitor testing if you have to deal with electric motors from time to time.

 

[rtz]

Had a cheap 114 since(when was it released?). Seems good?

Question I always had about it though. Says it's good for 600v? I've never messed with 600. What if the line was a little over that? Would it display or just show an error code? What if the voltage was unknown(and it was 1200v) and the meter was used in an attempt to "see" what the voltage was? Probably an arc flash event?

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

Any fluke, i have 77,a 87,

 

[Dingleburry]

Had a cheap 114 since(when was it released?). Seems good?

Question I always had about it though. Says it's good for 600v? I've never messed with 600. What if the line was a little over that? Would it display or just show an error code? What if the voltage was unknown(and it was 1200v) and the meter was used in an attempt to "see" what the voltage was? Probably an arc flash event?

Probably just an error OL. If your only a little bit over. Or maybe itll read properly? Not sure but.. Your cat ratings determine the voltage spike. Yours is 600V CAT III its 6,000 volts.

"Measurement Categories are used to rate test instruments on their ability to resist a voltage spike, which is applied through a specific resistance. The higher the category, the more risk there that a high voltage can overload a circuit and cause electrical and physical damage. Usually, the higher the CAT (category) rating, the safer the rating. "


http://www.ni.com/white-paper/5019/en/

 

[Citation]

Note that if you go over voltage by more than a little you are likely to damage the meter. The over voltage protection is to protect you the user, not the meter.

 

[Knotgoalie]

I still have and use the model 77 that I bought in 84...still ticking like new!

 

[fasteddie]

Don't listen to these Fluke snobs.

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

Don't listen to these Fluke snobs.

I would not trust that cheap one.. I also have other brands like craftsman, ect, so no I am not a Fluke snob,

 

[Whiskey Rock And Roller]

Put the links to the Fluke models in here.

google is your friend!

 

[VinceG]

What about this one?

 

[VinceG]

I Work on Class 8 trucks and Autos. I have a Fluke 177 but last year got a Mac EM721 from my Kids for fathers day it is comparable to a Fluke 87/88. The leads that came with it probe ends were too small. it is a little slow to read but it came with a lot of accessories including a AMP clamp and temp probe it was $299 on a promotion deal. I use a meter at least once a week and travel with it to train techs. What I like about it for training is it blocks putting the leads in the incorrect spots. It is a little larger than a fluke I have grown to like it and since my wife actually picked it out and surprised me with it I will use it till it dies. I would have bought the FLIR DM284 to try.

 

[FTG-05]

I have a Fluke 88. It’s for sale. Just sayin

How much?

 

[HondaCBMan]

Recommendations for a cheap but good one to troubleshoot electrical issues on a motorcycle? Amproble AM-510 caught my attention because read they are tested at Fluke labs or something of the sorts.

 

[John Timmins]

Don't overlook some simple features like tone for continuity or the capacitance feature if you want to test condensers. I need both since I work on vintage age Mercury outboards. I need those features for timing and troubleshooting.