Multimeter service life?

[Two Speed]

I've owned my Fluke 77 since about 1986.
My Fluke 75 at work I inherited 26 years ago when I started.
I've got a POS Metex that stays in my service truck 24/7 that is equally old for those days I forget to load up the fluke. It started out as the IDGAF if it gets stolen or broken on the road meter, but given how long I've had it, I might actually miss it if something was to happen to it. Other than eating batteries every year since it stays in the truck through freezing winter nights and steaming hot summer days its just as reliable as ever.

I also own a few vintage analog meters and digital meters from the 80's. Unless I need some fancy function, I don't forsee any modern meters in my future.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

I have Fluke meters at work (87V, and 179) and they are great meters. Also have cheap $20 meters at work and they take forever to get a reading, not stable, low resolution, etc. We give these to the interns .

I have an old Blue Point EEDM504B personally and would love to replace it with a Fluke 87V or 179, but have never been able to justify it in the last 20 years. It does all the things I need it to do well enough that I can't justify $350 for something I want, but don't need.

The SnapOn one you bought for $100 seems like a good deal for the quality of meter that you got.

 

[dsimatt]

Well I've finally got to use it a few times and wow it's so nice that it hits a number right away instead of bouncing around, also the backlit display is awesome not having to use a flashlight to see.

I do need to get a user's manual to fine tune using it but really happy so far.

 

[Gustheman]

My 77 has been with me for about 30 years, it's a great and rugged meter, mine even survived being slammed against the wall by my ex. Best meter I ever owned!

 

[kald]

I replace digital as needed. My Simson 260's will outlive me.

 

[smalltown]

Love my Fluke 77III great multimeter. Seeing the Simpson 260 written here brings back a lot of memories. That is/was a great multimeter also. I was really surprised to see Amazon still sells a Simpson 260-8 for $308.

 

[richfinn]

I think if you buy a good meter and look after it you shouldn't need to change it until it fails or becomes obsolete for some reason (hybrids/EVs might require beter safety ratings etc)

I think as instrument technology changes people upgrade, there are some interesting new meters with thermal imaging, OLED screens, wireless displays and graphing/data logging capabilites that might help people

 

[CR888]

Anyone know a good source for multimeter fuses, the tiny micro ones that approx 4mm(W)X10mm(L). I need a 10A 250V fuse for a NKtech NK-51D. Same company or rebranded UNI-T multimeter. Can't find them on eBay, only on alibaba and I have to buy minimum of 2000 or something. PITA.

 

[RTM]

I have had a Beckman DM25 for many years, probably since before 90, in homeowner and car repair use. Need to remember to turn it off, no auto off here. Gone through 2 or 3 sets of leads, the LCD has a flaw now, and the continuity buzzer doesn’t work more than 59% of the time, but it keeps on ticking.

 

[kald]

Love my Fluke 77III great multimeter. Seeing the Simpson 260 written here brings back a lot of memories. That is/was a great multimeter also. I was really surprised to see Amazon still sells a Simpson 260-8 for $308.

You can beat analog for tracking fluctuations and resistance

 

[American Locomotive]

You can beat analog for tracking fluctuations and resistance

Eh, most modern high-end multimeters have a "live" bar-graph display that updates in near real time. It's really eliminated the need for analog meters.

 

[jmcf1949]

I've had my Fluke 87V for nearly twenty years and it performs very well. Had it serviced once to verify accuracy.

 

[KnurledNut]

+1 on all the comments of the 77.
Lacking trms and cap (except IV), but my most trusted meter.

 

[richfinn]

Its nice to see some love for the old Fluke 77 ��

I have an old 78 which is an Automotive version and its perfect except for the lack of a backlight

 

[kald]

Eh, most modern high-end multimeters have a "live" bar-graph display that updates in near real time. It's really eliminated the need for analog meters.

Not really but each to his own.

 

[AngryBeaver]

only when the certification once a year comes back failed.... new silicone leads ever other year.

When you buy good meters, and take care of them, they last..

When you buy cheap meters, and don't take care of them, they don't last.

The Brand of the meter doesn't matter, when the meathead using it lets the batteries green death out.....

 

[Buster21]

For me nothing beats an analog meter when watching switch or relay contacts opening and closing. You can see it from across the room.

 

[thepunk]

Several of my Fluke meters have been around for 10+ years. Other than replacing leads when they wear out, all 3 meters come back from the Calibration lab every 18 months with no issues! Keep them clean and dry, get them calibrated and your good to go!

 

[Lassen Forge]

I still have an el cheapo from Shadio Shack that I got when I was in my 20's... that I haven't done the "check line voltage set on ohms" trick (yet)...

I also have a Simpson from the 50's that is still kicking, and a spare parts one in case it decides not to.

The only weak link are leads, and those are replaceable.

 

[SGKent]

Anyone know a good source for multimeter fuses, the tiny micro ones that approx 4mm(W)X10mm(L). I need a 10A 250V fuse for a NKtech NK-51D. Same company or rebranded UNI-T multimeter. Can't find them on eBay, only on alibaba and I have to buy minimum of 2000 or something. PITA.

Digikey or Mouser. You need to measure it. Lots of them are 5mm x 20 mm. If they are 20 mm long then look up GMA-10A

 

[American Locomotive]

only when the certification once a year comes back failed.... new silicone leads ever other year.

When you buy good meters, and take care of them, they last..

When you buy cheap meters, and don't take care of them, they don't last.

The Brand of the meter doesn't matter, when the meathead using it lets the batteries green death out.....

Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA/9v batteries. A little pricier, but 20 year shelf leaf and literally don't leak.

 

[jayemm]

I recently picked up a ANENG AN8009 at a good price.For a cheapie it's a nifty little meter.The backlit display is tons easier to read than my Fluke.It also has non contact voltage sensing (that actually works) and reads temperature(probe included) both of which the Fluke lacks.
Anyway to stay on topic, one the fuses blew (10A).They are 3.6 X 10 mm.Haven't sourced them yet but gotta be alot cheaper than the Fluke $9 HRC fuses.

 

[californiaHank]

I have several 70 series Flukes, ranging from a model 73, circa 1988, to a 77 mark IV that's a couple of years old. All of them test better than original factory spec, in most cases much better, for voltage, current, and resistance measurement. I use a DMMCheck Plus and a calibrated bench meter to check them a couple of times a year.

The 77 IV isn't the top of Fluke's line, but it's still made in the US and comes with a lifetime warranty. (The Asian made Flukes have a 3 year warranty.) I've carried it or one of the earlier, similar models in my carry-on or checked luggage for over 30 years. It does all the basic measurements I need with sufficient accuuracy for when I'm at a customer site (I'm an engineer, not a service tech), and it's inexpensive enough that I won't cry if it gets lost when travelling. If you replace the test leads every few years for safety, and don't abuse it, a mid-priced Fluke you buy today will still be accurate when you retire.

 

[richpa]

I have a large number of Flukes of varying ages and cannot fault any of them. As long as the batteries are ok and do not leak they will last for years. I can also vouch for a Fluke digital thermometer that I have. It still works after I let it run through a conveyorized oven at 500 degrees F that I was servicing. The case was more that a little melted but it was still measuring when it came out the other. I returned it to Fluke and they fitted a new case and it is still working as new. That was at least 20 years ago.

 

[CR888]

Digikey or Mouser. You need to measure it. Lots of them are 5mm x 20 mm. If they are 20 mm long then look up GMA-10A

Thanks for the reply, the Uni-T version PDF download states the spec sizes are 5mmX20mm....but they simply are not as I removed the blown 10a fuse and measured it with calipers and its 3.8mmX10.6mm. Its about the same size as a Tictac candy. They are super small fuses. I really like this meter, its loaded with features and has done everything I've needed & been good for temperature testing too but I tell you finding a fluke fuse for ANY model is easy peasy, finding these micro fuses for these generic Chinese meters is challenging. I have thought about retro fitting a 5X20mm fuse but it would mean I'd have to replace the fuse cradle or modify it a bit, there is enough real estate for it to fit but I'd like to find the correct fuse and not have to buy them by the 1000 'if possible'.

 

[cheechi]

my 27/FM with an Air Force sticker that says 86 developed an issue a few years back reading steady DCR. Fellow GJ member let me ship it to him and it came back working and calibrated. Some non-circuit internal piece came loose and was affecting stability.

27/FM is not fast by today's standards. No backlight. Otherwise my favourite to meter as it's my first Fluke. I bought another and put a barrel jack in it as it always stays on my bench and it was annoying going through batteries every few months. I still use my first 27/FM over my 87V and 88V for most things that don't require backlight. Friend of mine is real proud of his 117 and when I want to piss him off I bring out the legendary reliability of the industry standard 87V (among other phrases I use to get him riled up).

Picked up a Klein MM200 a few years back when they first introduced the line, at the time I didn't have one with a temp probe. nice compact size and it has a backlight, but at the time it was a brand new meter that didn't make me put away the Fluke brick.

I keep a couple cheapos around as sacrificial lambs just in case. They barely get used.

I would not trust a Southwire as my only meter. Say what you want about the Kool Aid but I'll keep my Flukes.

 

[RedneckWelder]

my 27/FM with an Air Force sticker that says 86 developed an issue a few years back reading steady DCR. Fellow GJ member let me ship it to him and it came back working and calibrated. Some non-circuit internal piece came loose and was affecting stability.

27/FM is not fast by today's standards. No backlight. Otherwise my favourite to meter as it's my first Fluke. I bought another and put a barrel jack in it as it always stays on my bench and it was annoying going through batteries every few months. I still use my first 27/FM over my 87V and 88V for most things that don't require backlight. Friend of mine is real proud of his 117 and when I want to piss him off I bring out the legendary reliability of the industry standard 87V (among other phrases I use to get him riled up).

Picked up a Klein MM200 a few years back when they first introduced the line, at the time I didn't have one with a temp probe. nice compact size and it has a backlight, but at the time it was a brand new meter that didn't make me put away the Fluke brick.

I keep a couple cheapos around as sacrificial lambs just in case. They barely get used.

I would not trust a Southwire as my only meter. Say what you want about the Kool Aid but I'll keep my Flukes.

I too have a 30+ year old 27/FM milsurp. Brought it on advice of this forum I keep it for home use.

 

[Citation]

Thanks for the reply, the Uni-T version PDF download states the spec sizes are 5mmX20mm....but they simply are not as I removed the blown 10a fuse and measured it with calipers and its 3.8mmX10.6mm. Its about the same size as a Tictac candy. They are super small fuses. I really like this meter, its loaded with features and has done everything I've needed & been good for temperature testing too but I tell you finding a fluke fuse for ANY model is easy peasy, finding these micro fuses for these generic Chinese meters is challenging. I have thought about retro fitting a 5X20mm fuse but it would mean I'd have to replace the fuse cradle or modify it a bit, there is enough real estate for it to fit but I'd like to find the correct fuse and not have to buy them by the 1000 'if possible'.

UniT makes different versions of the same meter. The "good" version has a proper high rupture current (HRC) fuses. The price sensitive models (often what's sold right out of China) use cheaper small glass fuses. So if you are dealing with non-hybrid/EV automotive work that glass fuse is likely fine. If you are working on 240V or higher AC wiring the glass fuse isn't sufficient to be safe.

 

[Indexmill]

Digital multi meters are indeed a "buy once; cry once" item. (If you are a younger person).