Multimeter

[Fluelikesymptoms]

I've always hated electric diagnostics but lately I have been getting better and for some reason everything has seemed to develop a electrical problem this past couple weeks. I am starting to run into things I dont like about my current walmart one that has gotten me through for a while so I wont hate on it. But it is missing some features I'd like and want to upgrade.

The features I'm looking for are the obvious ones of course:

ac and dc

continuity and ohms. I'd prefer separate functions for this and an audible for the continuity.

Amp reading

I've been in multiple situations lately where a temperature reading would have been very helpful.

Anything I'll likely need for home and auto I might be missing but will need some day

Another thing I'd like is for It to come with its own carry case that can hold multiple lead. I'd like alligator leads, standard ones, the temperature/thermistor lead, and the thin needle leads would be nice as I'm tired of tinkering with small safety pins.

Ruggedness is also something I'm looking for, must have. My walmart one took some beatings I feel to easily. I want this upgrade to be long lasting. (Fuses, reverse polarity protection etc)

Like I said I'm learning and not the best, I know fluke makes a good one but I dont see an offering with all these functions in one.

Any suggestions on one that will meet these specifications I can buy as a set?

One I saw and was considering was the klein mm2000, even though it's as missing a couple things I want in my upgrade. It's been discontinued.

 

[MattT]

Like I said I'm learning and not the best, I know fluke makes a good one but I dont see an offering with all these functions in one.

What are the features you can't find in a Fluke? I've got a couple 179s that'll do everything on your list and then some. Except the cases probably arent big enough to hold multiple sets of leads. Which isn't necessary since the leads have 4mm banana plugs so you just change the ends.

 

[BMack37]

You need a little more information in regards to Amp reading. Are you looking for something where you have to test in-line or test a line passively. A DMM is in-line, to test a circuit for Amps you need to cut the wire and put the meter in the circuit(and you can only test 10A or 20A for 30 seconds in a Fluke but it will degrade the fuse). To test it passively you need a clamp meter, that allows you to leave the wires in-tact...if that's the way you want to go then you need to decide if you want A/C Amperage or DC Amperage as well.

For a clamp meter, a Klein or Southwire is plenty fine. They offer more features than a Fluke at a lower cost, but you'll lose reliability over time(at some point they stop working, a Fluke will last much longer if taken care of). Fluke's clamp meters read rather slow compared to the DMMs so to me it's less important to go Fluke IMO.

For a DMM, with all the features you can get a Southwire and get all those features in a "High end" model. Continuity will not be as fast as a Fluke, that's a personal deal breaker to me. Also Flukes all come with a bar graph and that's very important when you have fluctuating voltage. Greenlee is probably the only DMM I'd really consider putting up against a Fluke in the US but they can be a little thick and have some quirks I don't care for. For a Fluke with all the features you want you need a higher end meter like an 87V or 179...or you can go with the Chinese market 17B but those may only test temps in Celsius.

You could also get a Fluke 115 or 117 and get a temp probe adapter. Fluke sold(discontinued but readily available on eBay) one that is K-type and one that has a probe. It convert temperature to mV so it can be used in any DMM. They run about $30.

Get a good lead set and it will come with a case. I have several and I mix and match them to have the perfect sets in the particular bags I carry.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have the Fluke 77-IV. It took me a year to find one on eBay at a digestible price. $170. Brand New. Build quality is off the charts. I baby it though. I keep it inside a climate controlled house inside a ziplock bag in my sock drawer.

 

[MattT]

Also Flukes all come with a bar graph and that's very important when you have fluctuating voltage.

Yeah manual range with the bar graph isn't a 'scope but it's close enough for a lot of things.

You could also get a Fluke 115 or 117 and get a temp probe adapter. Fluke sold(discontinued but readily available on eBay) one that is K-type and one that has a probe. It convert temperature to mV so it can be used in any DMM. They run about $30.

I'd rather drop the money on a cheap IR thermometer than a thermocouple adapter for a DMM.

 

[californiaHank]

Another vote for a Fluke 77 IV. It's one of the few remaining USA made Flukes that don't cost an arm and a leg.

I don't use my DMM as a thermometer - I have a separate (cheap) digital thermometer with various thermocouples for that.

 

[f121]

Fluke 115, a set of leads (even HD ones would do) and a ir thermometer.

The other meter that seems pretty good is the new snap on Bluetooth one, the colour led display makes it really easy to read, but it's a LOT of money. Waiting on my guy to work out a deal, probably one kidney and half my liver, plus $30/week.

 

[Stadger]

You might need one that measures capacitance also.

 

[Mr_B]

I'd rather drop the money on a cheap IR thermometer than a thermocouple adapter for a DMM.

+1 on this
don't make a dmm choice difficult over wanting a thermocouple when even a cheap IR thermometer be far better tool for the job .
Also don't expect 1 meter do it all, consider 2 meters, one being a clamp meter perhaps .
Also you don't have to sell the wife to buy them, plenty good options at various price points ...

 

[RedneckWelder]

I have some suggestions...

1) buy a cheap but decent meter. Innova, Klein, etc. a good step above HF. Or a good option is a military surplus Fluke 27FM (dark gray outer case) from eBay. Occasionally you may need to do hz/duty cycle to test something so you may want to consider a meter with those features, which are a little less common.
2) buy leads and case separately and build your tool kit. Two good websites for electrical diagnostic equipment- AESWave and Electronic Specialties Inc.
3) IR thermometer for temp
4) Get an amp clamp (separate or as an attachment) and avoid using your meter in series unless necessary.

I also recommend Dan Sullivan’s Fundamentals of Electrical Troubleshooting book.

For me electrical and electronics was something I had to really get my hands on and practice to truly learn. With a good schematic and an understanding of how the circuit and systems work I enjoy troubleshooting and repairing electrical issues

 

[rijndael]

For leads, I'm pleased with this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YP7HI8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Davefr]

I'd rather drop the money on a cheap IR thermometer than a thermocouple adapter for a DMM.

You need both. IR thermometers are only direct line of sight and you need an increasingly larger spot as distance increases which is not always possible. There's also the issue with emissivity where the IR may not accurately read shiny metal objects.

It's easy to find a DMM with a temp scale and thermocouple then get a separate IR thermometer. The clamp style DMM's are also very impressive with the ability to measure DC current along with everything else.

There's never been so many excellent full featured DMM's at affordable prices. No reason to pay Fluke prices but they are the best if you want a "rugged" meter. (and especially if you'll be doing any work with potentially lethal high voltage circuits.)

 

[Fedwrench]

Look at the offerings from Electronic specialities (ESI) they're rebadged by more than a few tool trucks. OTC also has some nice dvoms that won't break the bank.

 

[Rabid Badger]

The best tough as nails, do anything meter is the Brymen BM869s. Dual display lets you do things like check DC voltage and AC ripple simultaneously and compare two temperatures in real-time. 500,000 count resolution allows you to see things like extremely slow battery self-discharge that would be essentially invisible on a 6000 count meter.

https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/bm869/portable-digital-multimeters/brymen/bm869s/

You'll still want a clamp meter for measuring current. The Uni-T UT210E is dirt cheap and can measure down into the milliamps range. Not having to break circuits or worry about burden voltage for low current measurements is incredibly useful. You can pick it up for around $40 on eBay or $50 on Amazon.

The Uni-T includes a case. You'll have to buy one for the Brymen separately along with the specialty probes you're looking for.

 

[Wrench97]

Keep in mind the cheaper clamp meters do not do DC(automotive) current(amp) readings.

UEI makes a decent AC clamp for under $100

 

[Mr_B]

uni-t 210e for less than 33bucks on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-T-UT21...amp-Meter-Resistance-Capacitance/232012176542
Makes good second meter and pretty good clamp function at that price .
It does dc amps perfectly well and I use it for quick car diag work and second reading meter in dual meter diags.

 

[JRas]

I also recommend Fluke, spend the extra money. Buy the one with the features that you need/want.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Look at the offerings from Electronic specialities (ESI) they're rebadged by more than a few tool trucks. OTC also has some nice dvoms that won't break the bank.

My ESI unit has served me well for a long time. It was like $80, came with leads, temp probe, various tips.



OP - What are you measuring current on? Most meters can have a 10-amp internal measurement, but they have to be hooked in line with the circuit.

 

[pstemari]

The problem I've had in the past with clamp meters is that they don't seem to measure smaller currents with much accuracy. Typical full range scales are things like 600A.

Been meaning to get a Uni-T 210E. I think it would be more useful than my Fluke clamp probe.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[bpjr]

If doing capacitors on electric motors you may want a meter that measures micro farads.

 

[Mr_B]

^
uni-t 210e got that covered too and pretty good at it .
used that along with analogue dmm do motor capacitor tests simple and easy .
210e not ideal main dmm but it super useful secondary or small portable quick test meter. it also cheap enough not care about damage loss or theft so good in the service truck or chucked in a shop service cart kit .
I got 2 210e off ebay for 24 bucks each and a 204a for 30 bucks to read up to 600A dc for alternator and starter quick tests, that one also has thermo probe .
Useful quick test meters at those sort of prices, wouldn't want pay much more.
Do see both these models as cheap as 20bucks at times .

 

[BMack37]

Yeah manual range with the bar graph isn't a 'scope but it's close enough for a lot of things.

Definitely, I've used my Fluke 77IV and 87V to quickly test to see if there is audio output...can't do that with a slow meter without a bar graph. Saves a lot of time compared to getting out a signal tracer or scope and signal generator.

I'd rather drop the money on a cheap IR thermometer than a thermocouple adapter for a DMM.

Depends on what he's doing. I have two Fluke IR temp guns and use those all the time but temp on a DMM is great for doing stuff like A/C, anything where you're testing a particular spot over time. I assumed when it was mentioned, that what he's looking for is a probe. I would recommend both TBH.

Admittedly, I'm a Fluke fanboy:

 

[Citation]

I really like Fluke meters.
Get a Uni-T UT210E.

Fluke meters are great but expensive. I love my 187 and the 87-V I had before it. Are they worth it for most, no. I do like some specific features like the fast continuity and touch hold features. Brymen (Greenlee, some Amprobe and a few others) are great but sadly lack the touch-hold feature.

The UT210 is clearly a mid-range meter but works really nicely for so many things. It's limitations aren't that bad. What I would suggest is getting one of those and possibly a second meter that does temperature and capacitance.

Fluke is like getting Snap-On. Yes, in general it's the best and most can tell it's great when using it but the functional differences just aren't that important for most users.

 

[Davefr]

I really like Fluke meters.
Get a Uni-T UT210E.

Fluke meters are great but expensive. I love my 187 and the 87-V I had before it. Are they worth it for most, no. I do like some specific features like the fast continuity and touch hold features. Brymen (Greenlee, some Amprobe and a few others) are great but sadly lack the touch-hold feature.

^^Agree. Fluke's touch-hold is a wonderful feature, I'm surprised the rest of the pack hasn't gone that route.

The UT139C is also a pretty full featured meter at an affordable price.

 

[Mr. T]

Fluke is like getting Snap-On. Yes, in general it's the best and most can tell it's great when using it but the functional differences just aren't that important for most users.

I mostly agree with this. The big caveat is safety. I don’t have to worry about my HF wheel chocks exploding in my face. Same can’t be said for their meters.

If the phrase “arc blast” is even remotely in my subconscious somewhere, I’ll use a properly rated meter from a company that can be trusted. For me that’s Fluke, but they aren’t the only ones I would trust.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Brymen (Greenlee, some Amprobe and a few others) are great but sadly lack the touch-hold feature.

The Brymen BM860 series has peak hold functionality.

 

[ajchien]

I bought a Klein cl800 a few months back and have been fairly happy with it. AC and dc amp clamp is the bonus with the cl800.

It’s funny, you think you don’t need a few of the extra functions ... until you do.

 

[Citation]

^^Agree. Fluke's touch-hold is a wonderful feature, I'm surprised the rest of the pack hasn't gone that route.

The UT139C is also a pretty full featured meter at an affordable price.

Agilent/Keysite have it as does Metrix (BK Precision). At this point I think the patents would be long since expired since Fluke had it even on the old brick like 27 and the 73.

I mostly agree with this. The big caveat is safety. I don’t have to worry about my HF wheel chocks exploding in my face. Same can’t be said for their meters.

If the phrase “arc blast” is even remotely in my subconscious somewhere, I’ll use a properly rated meter from a company that can be trusted. For me that’s Fluke, but they aren’t the only ones I would trust.

I agree that Fluke (and a few others) are tops for safety. However, depending on application I see no issue with the level of safety provided by the $50 stuff (Uni-T etc). For instance, I wouldn't trust a $50 Uni-T in a CAT-4 situation. However, for you typical 120V or automotive wiring (CAT 1-2, 240V or less) I would be fine with the Uni-T. Generally I would hope that anyone who is working in an area where arc flashes are a problem would know what they are doing and select tools appropriately. I have a CAT-4 meter but I personally will never work on anything where CAT-4 rating are needed. I'll always hire that out.

 

[Citation]

The Brymen BM860 series has peak hold functionality.

I'm not sure how the BM860 series compares to the Greenlee MD820A. The Greenlee looks like the 829 but with a bar graph. Anyway, it has a min-max hold but not the touch-hold function.

Touch-hold is like an automatic hold function. You make contact then once the reading stabilizes the meter beeps and you can take the probes away and look at the frozen screen. It's great when you need your eyes on the probes to get a reading. It's not a peak hold since it should take the stable reading vs a momentary high or low. Just a super useful feature when trying to get to hard to reach places. It works brilliantly on meters like the 27, 17x, 87 family etc. The 11x family has just regular hold. The 187/189 have it but it's a secondary function. Pushing "HOLD" normally just freezes the screen. Shift+HOLD to get touch hold mode.

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

It’s funny, you think you don’t need a few of the extra functions ... until you do.

Too many good suggestions to quote everyone but this is where I am right now. I'm still trying to figure out what it is to get I'm leaning fluke 179 so far but haven't had the time to go over all my options this weekend.

I'm still learning alot of things as they come along, and am no expert. That is alot of why I am having a difficult time deciding.

If it helps those who want more information, I've had a couple scenarios where a thermometer probe would have been more useful than an IR on home appliances. Also useful for ac work. This is why I want the feature.

And as far as current readings I'm thinking more of automotive/appliance stuff. I feel like if I'm working on really high currents I would be better of considering a separate clamp style meter. A multimeter that would be capable of having an accurate clamp style accessory probe would be nice. I lack in knowledge in this department but want it because as ajchein said, I dont need it until I do.

I'm willing to spend a fair chunk of change on the multimeter but I want to spend it right, I dont want to regret not getting a different model later on that wouldve only be 50 60 80 bucks more.

I lack the knowledge but I learn quick. Especially when something stops working that I rely on. It's funny because I'm actually GM certified in electrical and schematics lol

 

[Rabid Badger]

I'm not sure how the BM860 series compares to the Greenlee MD820A. The Greenlee looks like the 829 but with a bar graph. Anyway, it has a min-max hold but not the touch-hold function.

Touch-hold is like an automatic hold function. You make contact then once the reading stabilizes the meter beeps and you can take the probes away and look at the frozen screen. It's great when you need your eyes on the probes to get a reading. It's not a peak hold since it should take the stable reading vs a momentary high or low. Just a super useful feature when trying to get to hard to reach places. It works brilliantly on meters like the 27, 17x, 87 family etc. The 11x family has just regular hold. The 187/189 have it but it's a secondary function. Pushing "HOLD" normally just freezes the screen. Shift+HOLD to get touch hold mode.

I own an 87V, I'm aware how the Fluke auto hold works. I'm also aware that the peak hold/crest mode (which is separate and distinct from the Min/Max mode) on the Brymen can be used in a similar manner to keep a value on the screen without having to press a button while taking the reading.

 

[Citation]

I own an 87V, I'm aware how the Fluke auto hold works. I'm also aware that the peak hold/crest mode (which is separate and distinct from the Min/Max mode) on the Brymen can be used in a similar manner to keep a value on the screen without having to press a button while taking the reading.

OK. I'm not sure everyone would be so it never hurts to describe things for people who haven't had a chance to use the features.

 

[redvalkyrie]

I'm going to suggest Hioki brand made in Japan meters as they don't get any attention for how great they are.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

The problem I've had in the past with clamp meters is that they don't seem to measure smaller currents with much accuracy. Typical full range scales are things like 600A.

Been meaning to get a Uni-T 210E. I think it would be more useful than my Fluke clamp probe.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Agreed on this, however a good solution is to take your wire and put 10 or 100 wraps in it and run the clamp through the middle. Now the 600A is 60 or 6 since it just measures field strength so running the same field through it multiple times "amplifies" the input giving you much better resolution.

It can be any number of wraps, just factors of 10 are easy mental math

 

[Nineeightyone]

Not really a suggestion, but more of a stay-away:

I've had a couple of the freebie HF multimeters, and while they worked for super-basic use, I've had a couple of instances where the leads would pick up voltage just waving them around in free air.

I picked up an Ames multimeter not wanting to spend the coin on a Fluke (particularly for how infrequently I use a multimeter), the jury is still out on the Ames model. It's the DM600, and for ~$35 I figure it's worth the gamble before opting for a Fluke 117.

I've worked with the Fluke models though and they're fantastic, if it were something I was using on a regular basis I'd definitely be able to justify the cost.

 

[Davefr]

Speaking of DMM's, why can a free HF DMM test a transistor and measure it's hFE yet nothing in Fluke's entire lineup can do the same including their flagship 87V?

If you want to cover all your bases, you need multiple meters.

I was debugging an amplifier over the weekend and I had to set my 87V aside and pull out my free HF DMM which successfully pinpointed a problematic transistor.

The other invaluable meter to have is an inline ESR capacitor tester.

 

[Fluelikesymptoms]

Which would you guys recommend the fluke 87v or the 179.

I like the accuracy of the 179 over the 87v, however I like the warranty and the duty cycle of the 87v. The only time i can really think of I'd use the duty cycle though is if I were testing fuel injection on vehicles.

The 87v has a microamp setting. Is there any reason I would need this feature? I dont even know what you would test microamps for, but like I said I gotta learn for whatever reason.

Like I said this dmm is going to be geared more towards appliances and automotive. Cost is relatively the same

 

[Rabid Badger]

Which would you guys recommend the fluke 87v or the 179.

I like the accuracy of the 179 over the 87v, however I like the warranty and the duty cycle of the 87v. The only time i can really think of I'd use the duty cycle though is if I were testing fuel injection on vehicles.

The 87v has a microamp setting. Is there any reason I would need this feature? I dont even know what you would test microamps for, but like I said I gotta learn for whatever reason.

Like I said this dmm is going to be geared more towards appliances and automotive. Cost is relatively the same

The 87V more accurate than the 179.

Between the two the 87V is definitely the better meter.

As an 87V owner I still recommend you save yourself $150 and get the Brymen BM869s. It's accuracy and build quality is on par with the 87V and its additional features are very useful.

 

[Rabid Badger]

This is another relative bargain for $170 shipped:

http://www.ruby-electronics.com/store_item/DT-9939_Waterproof_Industrial_Wireless_USB_RMS_Multimeter_with_Capacitance_Frequency_Duty_Cycle

That same meter is sold as the Extech EX540 for over $300. It includes a hard sided case, thermocouple and a computer datalogging accessory.

Here's a YouTube review from a guy that knows his meters:

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

I have the Klein MM700. I think it checks all the boxes you just listed and is about $100 on Amazon.