multimeters - opinions?

[richfinn]

I would say that if you wont spend at least $50 on a meter you should stay away from anything electrical, the internal components in a sub $50 meter will be total **** and possibly fakes and the soldering wont be worth a damn. If a workshop charges $100 per hour labour to find electrical faults, you only have to fix one simple fault to make it worth buying a decent meter that will be durable. Total no brainer, buy something that will last.

 

[coolreed]

I would go with any Fluke True RMS Meter.

I would not short change on a meter. Your life may depend on it.

I always liked the Simpson 260 analog meter too. There is just nothing like seeing the meter deflect, indicating the meter is truly working.

Never assume the meter is working. Always, always prove it before using it.

 

[ssblood]

I have a Fluke 88V with all the goodys. Paid over 500 for it.

That being said, I use a Blue Point meter most of the time. The fluke is nice for speed sensors and various other sensors but is not generally needed.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk

 

[nanofrog]

Well...the first time you accidentally drape your vinyl HF meter leads over a hot exhaust manifold. you'll say "hmmm" we'll thats why I buy $3 meters.

True, but a good set of silicone leads won't melt. Worst case, they'll scorch (burn).

On a serious note, those HF meters are fine for 12VDC, but they don't have the protection circuits to keep you alive if something goes wrong on mains AC. They'll literally explode when exposed to too high a voltage or on the wrong setting when mains is applied (there are videos of this, and these units are sold under numerous brand names).

Seriously though, there are decent meters in the $50 and $100 brackets that are decent, and such units certainly have their place.

UEi D391 or D393 (adds true RMS) for example, and are decent units (~$100 and $130 respectively). Accurate, rugged, and have the internal protection and safety ratings to help keep the user alive if something goes wrong.

 

[Lotek]

You guys who are recommending/using cheapo H/F meters and the like would probably be better served with a test light. And I don't mean that as an insult. Those meters will tell you that you have something near 12v, a test light will do that, along with the added benefit of telling you that the circuit will flow enough current to light the bulb. A meter will read 12v if one strand is left to complete the circuit, but your tail lights won't work, and neither will your radio. A poor connection will show as a dim light. When I am doing electrical diag, I'll usually grab one of my test lights before I break out the Fluke. I have a normal high impedance test light(important when working around computer ckts), an 1157 bulb with leads and an old sealed beam for high load ckts.

 

[Butters]

You guys who are recommending/using cheapo H/F meters and the like would probably be better served with a test light. And I don't mean that as an insult. Those meters will tell you that you have something near 12v, a test light will do that, along with the added benefit of telling you that the circuit will flow enough current to light the bulb. A meter will read 12v if one strand is left to complete the circuit, but your tail lights won't work, and neither will your radio. A poor connection will show as a dim light. When I am doing electrical diag, I'll usually grab one of my test lights before I break out the Fluke. I have a normal high impedance test light(important when working around computer ckts), an 1157 bulb with leads and an old sealed beam for high load ckts.

And you're probably right. Which is the same reason it would be silly to buy a Fluke in those cases. One of my Flukes is always in my work truck, yet I never feel the need to walk 50 feet to retrieve it when my Craftsman or Klein multimeter are at hand.

I personally don't like test lights for cars (for the work I do). Sometimes, particularly newer cars, there are circuits that aren't 12V. It's also nice when checking the charging circuit. But they certainly work for a great majority of automotive electrical jobs.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

IMO the only feature I seem to really need is auto-ranging, but most of my work is basic.

Old thread, I know, but question re. auto range.
This Blow Hard at work said my auto zone meter was a POS because it was not "auto range"
Do I really need auto range for automotive and household testing.
After all, working on a house, I know I'm not looking at 5000 volts AC and working on a car, I know I am not looking at 60 volts DC voltage.
Or what am I missing.
In measuring resistance ,is auto range better or something?

EDIT This is the one I have
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Actron-CP76...-Multimeter-and-Engine-Analyzer-/301040660631

 

[Flivver250]

For automotive use I bought a Snap-On Volt/Ohm, Tach and Dwell meter back in 1979 or 1980 and it with a test light does almost all of the tests I have the skill to perform. I do have a cheap box store multi-meter for household current for those projects I attempt around the house. If I had more skill I would invest in a Fluke. I have a bunch of dental tools for picking at carburators and the like, doesn't make me a dentist. A bit of knowledge and a test light goes a long way in automotive troubleshooting.

 

[JoeFin]

Sheeesh, you guys are as bad as the Snap-on guys. I don't know how to say this without sounding like a jerk, but a Harbor Freight Centek meter will do the job quite adequately for the needs you described. I use one and have three in case one breaks

Steve

Its the "and have three in case one breaks part that tells the tale.

Why would anyone buy a "Sub-Par" instrument and then TRUST their life to it doing electrical work. Don't you test a circuit before you place your hands on it - at least to make sure you have turned off the right circuit

AND you want to trust a meter you have to buy 3 of in case 1 breaks ?

 

[nanofrog]

Do I really need auto range for automotive and household testing.
After all, working on a house, I know I'm not looking at 5000 volts AC and working on a car, I know I am not looking at 60 volts DC voltage.
Or what am I missing.
In measuring resistance ,is auto range better or something?

Auto-ranging isn't a critical necessity, but a manual range meter requires more knowledge & skill when probing an unknown circuit to keep from blowing the meter or injuring yourself if it happens (some can literally blow your fingers/hand off ).

Auto-ranging is more of a convenience than anything else, but can also be safer under some circumstances. If you've a single position for current on the selector switch for example, and you're not trying to put more current through the meter than it's designed for, it won't blow up in your hand. Otherwise, you still have to know what range to put the switch on, even with auto-ranging (or start at the highest range, and work your way down if you don't get a reading; comes back to knowledge/skill).

Another factor with cheap meters however, auto-ranging or not, is they may not meet their CAT ratings. For example, they may claim 600V CAT IV, and use 250V glass fuses internally. Other issues too, such as insufficient creepage distances/lack of cut-outs to prevent arc-over when probing an HV sources (within the meters specs). This is more common than you may think. There's an entire thread dedicated to this sort of thing over on the EEVBlog forum.