multiple plugs in's on a switch?

[montea]

ok so im just wondering if i got this right. i made some diagrams up in paint quick to explain.

 

[IDASHO]

That works.

Although, if you want switched outlets, why not go the one extra step and make split outlets. One plug being always hot, the other being switched.

Just have to run 3 wire (plus ground) instead of 2 (plus ground)

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

Also. you have the plugs wired in series,if the left outlet goes bad the right outlet will not work.

What i would suggest is to add a 6in wire to the hots then pigtail them together then run it to the 2nd outlet.
.

 

[hidollartoys]

Also. you have the plugs wired in series,if the left outlet goes bad the right outlet will not work.

What i would suggest is to add a 6in wire to the hots then pigtail them together then run it to the 2nd outlet.
.

I am not sure how you arrived at this. If the connect lugs are still in place there is no need to use a pigtail.

 

[Kevin54]

Montea.....I would do what IDASHO suggested. Make one (either top or bottom) hot constantly and one switched. What you drew up is correct, but when you flip the switch it kills the whole bank of outlets. To split the outlet, break the tab between the two screws. This now makes both a seperate circuit. Now you can run a wire to the bottom that would be hot constant and leave the switch to the top. But if I may ask....why do you want to have your outlets on switches? It can be a pain at times. You could also make a switch outlet combo so you would have a switch at each outlet. You would have to put in a double box for it though, wire accordingly,then get the faceplate to match.

 

[montea]

this will be for my ceiling lights, 4' double t8's w/ plug ins and pull cords. all of my wall plug ins will be constantly hot.

 

[Kevin54]

this will be for my ceiling lights, 4' double t8's w/ plug ins and pull cords. all of my wall plug ins will be constantly hot.

Then if you wire it like you drew it, you are good to go.

 

[MAD]

I am not sure how you arrived at this. If the connect lugs are still in place there is no need to use a pigtail.

Using pigtails rather than feeding through the receptacle will provide a more reliable connection. I find, if you use a nice deep box, it is actually easier to pigtail than to feed through the receptacles using the screw terminals.

 

[tfi racing]

Using pigtails rather than feeding through the receptacle will provide a more reliable connection.

Sorry,but how can that be true,you are introducing more splices for no good reason.More splices=greater chances for failure!I have heard of inspectors in some areas requiring pigtails as suggested,to assure the continuity of the circuit if a receptacle is removed,a silly excuse if you ask me,why would you remove one on a live circuit for no good reason?.However on a split recptacle(two circuits)the neutral must be pigtailed.The screw terminals on the side of the receptacle are fine if used properly,the less experienced should keep these things as simple as possible...

 

[MAD]

Sorry,but how can that be true,you are introducing more splices for no good reason.More splices=greater chances for failure!...

There are the same number of terminations. Two splices + two terminals on the receptacle VS four terminals on the receptacle for the hots and neutrals.

I have often seen burned up receptacles due to arching at loose screw terminals. Properly spliced (twisted & wire nut) pigtails are less likely to fail.

Both methods are correct. In my opinion, pig-tailing is better.

 

[kbs2244]

I go the pig tail route for another reason.
I can wire up the outlets, faceplates, etc while sittting at a bench.
Then when I am up on a ladder all I have to do is 2 wire nuts and 2 screws.
It puts all the fussy work with little screws at an easier level.

 

[checkthisout]

I go the pig tail route for another reason.
I can wire up the outlets, faceplates, etc while sittting at a bench.
Then when I am up on a ladder all I have to do is 2 wire nuts and 2 screws.
It puts all the fussy work with little screws at an easier level.

Yup.

It's a lot less strain on the outlets, boxes and wires too.

You can shove the wire nuts and wires into the box then have only the resistance of the two pig tails to push against when bolting the outlet to the box.

It's also code for circuits like your kitchen and bathrooms.

 

[rburke65]

Have to agree with the pigtail idea. Also less wires to fool with down the road when you change out a recpticle.

 

[D KRAGER]

Just remember the rule, very important..... one wire per terminal screw!!!!

 

[Junkman]

Yup.

It's a lot less strain on the outlets, boxes and wires too.

You can shove the wire nuts and wires into the box then have only the resistance of the two pig tails to push against when bolting the outlet to the box.

It's also code for circuits like your kitchen and bathrooms.

Is this something new, because I have never heard of it before?

Also, what type of wire do you use for the pig tails... stranded or solid???

 

[kbs2244]

I just use the same wire as the rest of the circuit.
The industrial guys seem to like stranded (maybe because of vibration?) but regular construction is solid.
It dosn't hurt to use deep boxs though.

 

[TRDon]

I am not sure how you arrived at this. If the connect lugs are still in place there is no need to use a pigtail.

I would agree with him as a better connection because I have had many service calls where a wire came undone on an outlet upstream and rendered 2,3,4,5,6 outlets inoperable. Then you need to start taking apart the outlets to find the culprit. With a pigtail, if something goes bad, it typically isnt the wire-nut splice. Granted it is more work but I prefer all my outlets to be independant of the line feeding it instead of relying on the device to make the connection.

 

[6768rogues]

Just do it the way you drew it. I have done hundreds that way and if you stay away from aluminum wire and tighten the screws properly, you will not have problems.