Multiple switch panel for 110/220vac switching

[Miller54z]

I was curious if anybody knows if there is any sort of wall panel for a shop that incorporates multiple switches (instead of using individual residential-style rocker switches). I'd like to control multiple things from the same location (such as multiple lighting zones, exhaust fan, compressor relay, outdoor lighting, etc) with a better option than installing multiple gang boxes with individual switches. I'd also like to have indicator lights by or on each switch to show when the circuits are energized.

I've been looking online, but the only things I am finding are circuit breaker panels and switch panels for boats and RVs. Basically, I'd like to be able to switch five or six 110v or 220v AC circuits from one clean wall mounted panel (similar to the marine panels).

Does anything like this exist?

Thanks,

-Matt

 

[Jkcolo22]

Well these are not 220 capable, but they are smaller than individual switches. I’m planning to use them for my lighting instead of a 3 gang box.


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[sberry]

I have done this type of thing. When I started I thought I could find a better way and had to use every fitting they ever invented. After 40 years of it I now lean to0wards simple and practical when I can, use a 49 cent switch if it will work.
Had a builder pull me in the other day asking about double switch etc and I suggested putting in a 2 gang box and starting off on the right foot vs cramming a double in to start with. 10$ switch vs 2 for a dollar.
Was in another house recently with a whole bank of stuff on a wall leading to the kitchen. Probably seemed like a good idea at the time but it likely had thousands of "which switch" turn ons to find the one they needed for the lights and never did figure out where some of them went.
I like to put them where it feels right and one can suume where it goes, stuff not needed daily gets a different elevation or in the area/equipment it serves vs everyone flipping every switch till the lights go on.
Put a switch to a fan where it is obvious, does it need a light to tell if its running? I been using air for a long time,,, never had a compressor relay, just more shate to go wrong and this isn't a marine application,,, its a common garage.

 

[Miller54z]

Thanks- I see your point, but it is an open floor plan with one walk in door, so there is basically one logical place to put switches. Plus, there are several devices that I'd like to be able to look in at one glance and see if they were left on, such as the exhaust fan and compressor shut off (hence the desire for some kind of indicator light). I'm an airline pilot by trade, so it seems normal to me that you should have more than a couple co-located switches together on some sort of panel.

The switch above with three rockers in one is an idea, but I was hoping there may be another option.
Maybe this doesn't exist, but I thought someone had at least maybe tried something similar?

 

[Jkcolo22]

You could probably make your own with a switch panel and A/C rocker/toggle switches. Didn’t take the time to find a switch panel, but I’m sure you could find one.

Nilight Heavy Duty Rocker Toggle Switch 15A 250V 20A 125V SPST 2 Pin ON/OFF Switch Metal Bat Waterproof Boot Cap Cover - 5 Pack, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KBC5VH/?tag=atomicindus08-20




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[slimpickins]

Have you looked at the Insteon switches?

Getting into Insteon is a bit of a rabbit hole, but they are a slick solution. The cost is offset by savings in wiring. You can get into web access, computer controllers, apps for your phone to control lights and appliances etc. IF you want to, but you don't have to.

Available on Amazon and direct at smarthome.com.

The 8 button module (also available as, or convertible to a 6 button module) can control one device direct wired, and 7 other devices remotely with wired in modules. Communicates over power line so you can control devices without a direct wire connection - like switching a light in your garage from your house without running a separate switch wire.

Just a thought.
Cheers!

 

[Rudy T]

Well these are not 220 capable, but they are smaller than individual switches. I’m planning to use them for my lighting instead of a 3 gang box.


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I Had the same idea as you a while back. Here it is done.

 

[Miller54z]

I Had the same idea as you a while back. Here it is done.

That looks pretty good; I like it. I wish there were indicator lights to show which circuits were energized.

I was initially looking for something like this that could be used in a shop:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNUY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I saw these as well, but the RF/Z-wave stuff is super expensive and requires some kind of hub, which makes me wonder what all could go wrong:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KN87OE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[75gmck25]

Also consider the long term maintenance of this in a shop. You have spent several days searching for a unique switch with a unique form factor, and will have to do the same if it breaks in the future. From my perspective its just not worth it for this application (a shop).

If you use standard electrical boxes and standard wall switches it will be easily upgradeable and fixable in the future. If I can find it on the shelf in HD or Lowes, then it will be easy to find a replacement. I prefer that in a garage or shop.

Bruce

 

[OccupantRJ]

Make your own cover plate for a multigang box that has bat handle toggle switches and indicator lights in it. Have a switch with an indicator light above it. You should be able to get several in line depending on the box size you choose. That should make a pilot feel right at home.

 

[alfredeneuman]

You may want to look at a low voltage switching system with relays.
Low voltage switches are tiny and the load will only be the coils on the relays.
There are companies like GE and TouchPlate that have been in business since the 1950s. Their products are very reliable. They're still using the same relays now... and they have the option for pilot lights.

 

[Miller54z]

Also consider the long term maintenance of this in a shop. You have spent several days searching for a unique switch with a unique form factor, and will have to do the same if it breaks in the future. From my perspective its just not worth it for this application (a shop).

If you use standard electrical boxes and standard wall switches it will be easily upgradeable and fixable in the future. If I can find it on the shelf in HD or Lowes, then it will be easy to find a replacement. I prefer that in a garage or shop.

Bruce

Bruce, you are right- I don't want to put something in place that I have to mess with later on if it stops working. That is another reason I'm not crazy about the RF switches, as if one stops working or the hub gets fried 5 years down the road, there may not be an exact replacement.

-Matt

 

[Miller54z]

Make your own cover plate for a multigang box that has bat handle toggle switches and indicator lights in it. Have a switch with an indicator light above it. You should be able to get several in line depending on the box size you choose. That should make a pilot feel right at home.

RJ,

I think I will take your advice and custom fab a switch panel using standard residential-style rocker switches and add the indicator lights above or adjacent to the switches. It should be easy enough to cut an aluminum cover plate and wire in something like this to each switch:

 

[Jkcolo22]

Or just use a pilot light switch with built in “on” light indicator. Something like this:


20 Amp 120/277-Volt Industrial Grade Toggle Switch with Pilot Light, Red

https://www.homedepot.com/p/206469262


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[slow]

If you want something that will easily be supported for years, 22 or 30mm push buttons are designed for exactly this kind of application, but more targeted towards industrial process control used with contactors

 

[alfredeneuman]

The only contact blocks available for 22 and 30mm switches are pilot duty (not over 10Amps) and would need a contactor or relay to operate heavier loads such as the OP has.
You'd have to have a massive cover plate in order to use as many 30mm operators as would be necessary.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I Had the same idea as you a while back. Here it is done.

Must be awful tight inside that box !

 

[Jkcolo22]

I keep running into products that makes me think of this thread. I like the concept, and I'm kind of surprised that there isn't anything out there. This site has custom industrial control panels. https://panelshop.com/project/operator-station/ . Out of curiosity, I ask for a quote in a 3x3 configuration (3 two position switches, 3 pilot lights). I anticipate it will be crazy expensive.

 

[Jkcolo22]

RJ,

I think I will take your advice and custom fab a switch panel using standard residential-style rocker switches and add the indicator lights above or adjacent to the switches. It should be easy enough to cut an aluminum cover plate and wire in something like this to each switch:

I wonder if this can be done within code... Curious whether its permissible to use a couple 3 gang NM boxes and a custom face plate? Are faceplates UL listed?

 

[Git]

You should really consider Z-Wave.

It's a little more advanced, but they make these dimmer switches that have indicator lights running down the side. You can set it up so that when another z-wave switch is on, it will light up the indicators. These switches also have 'multi-tap' capabilities. You press the up rocker 2 times - can be programmed to do something like turn all the lights on or something, same thing with 3 times and then you have the down rocker doing the same thing.

So you can have other z-wave switches in different locations that can be turned on/off with just one of these switches

and ya, Z-wave can be a rabbit hole for sure.

 

[Jkcolo22]

OP--Check this out. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=465679&page=2 Scroll down to Post #25. I got him to explain further in Post #28. I thought of this thread as soon as I saw what he had done. Pretty amazing. I'm probably going to do something similar. Looks like exactly what you were looking for.

 

[sberry]

In a small building running some extra wire is ok, its simple. If I was going to do this whichhhhhh, I likely would be limited is to use common toggles, the 59 cent ones and gang up some boxes, the simple switch and in the correct position. I have some banks so to speak and its easy to shut off when its the only switch "on"
There is a reason though that this is not more common. All the extra stuff makes it riskier and more complicated. Personally would shut the valve off to the comp and make sure I didnt leave fans running.

 

[sberry]

I looked at that thread before. Its not inherantly bad but I dont want all that ****. Not that there might not be a place but simply dont "want" it, pile of cheap **** from radio shack all custom built, **** added in the middle of a perfectly good wire it doesnt need.
If its a hobby,,, ok, if a guy doesnt care what it cost and how long it works, ok, if it was going to save cost, save labor or money ok, if it added safety ok but common circuits and outlets are well established, all this well proven. If I was gonna get gadget happy would probably go air solenoid. Smoke alarm to phone and possibly thermostat if heat was a factor.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I wonder if this can be done within code... Curious whether its permissible to use a couple 3 gang NM boxes and a custom face plate? Are faceplates UL listed?

a device is not required to be U/L listed. it is required to be listed by a NRTL- nationally recognized testing laboratory.

And yes plates are listed.

 

[alfredeneuman]

a device is not required to be U/L listed. it is required to be listed by an NRTL- nationally recognized testing laboratory.

https://www.osha.gov/dts/otpca/nrtl/nrtllist.html

 

[Jkcolo22]

a device is not required to be U/L listed. it is required to be listed by a NRTL- nationally recognized testing laboratory.

And yes plates are listed.

Wylie- is the panel I linked to in post 21 above up to code? A little abnormal for a home shop but doesn’t look that different to me from an industrial control panel. I’m in the process of wiring lights for my shop and I’m going to need at least 6 switches (possibly 8 eventually). I really don’t like my options for that many switches with traditional switches and face plates (or having to completely reconfigure if I add more later), so that kind of setup is appealing to me.


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