Muriatic Acid Question

[raymon1717]

Did the cleaning last weekend and ready to etch this weekend. I received the Epoxy-Coat kit finally and the bottle of acid/degreaser that came with it is really small. Most threads here recommend to use it straight with no dilution. For this reason I went out and bought more straight muriatic acid. How should I dilute this stuff? I plan to use the Epoxy-Coat supplied solution to clean, rinse it, then the apply other acid I bought for another etching application.

By the way, the kit that got delivered from Epoxy-Coat was f'd up. No squegee, and component A spilled into the large bail it came in. What a mess (all the tools and flakes were covered in it). Called them and they are supposed to be sedning me a new tool kit with everything but the epoxy (apparently the spillage of Part A is no big deal since it doesn't harden until it touches B anyway).

Also, if you measure out in units, how do you know how much of each component to mix at a time?

 

[bmwpower]

Mix the acid in water at a ratio of 1 part acid to 4 or 5 parts water. Choose your overall volume. If you have really oil spots you can use the acid full strength to spot-etch.

I measured my epoxy in those plastic measuring containers sold at Home Depot, etc. They're a clear plastic with graduated marks down the side. They come in all different sizes.

 

[Der Bugmeister]

Test your solution on a small part of your floor in a place where it will be inconspicuous if you don't like the results...

 

[snorvet]

The Epoxy-Coat kit acid didnt etch well for me when I diluted per instructions. I could touch it with bare hands with no problem. I would get more acid and dilute it as needed to get a good smoking, bubbling reaction with the concrete.

I divided my 500 sf garage in 4 (i think) equal areas. Then measured out a fourth of A and a fourth of B, mixed them and applied the mixture to a fourth of my floor, and applied flakes. repeated process three more times until done.

Dont use the Epoxy-Coat mixing bit. Mine either melted or broke while mixing. Get a metal one.

The squeegee is a must. Its best to squeegee the epoxy as evenly as possible before rolling in order to get an even coverage.

 

[sjsfire]

Hey Raymon...Make darn sure if you mix the muratic and water that you add the acid to the water and NOT!!! water to acid. Don't ask me how I know this...well ok I was a dumb 18 year old mixing acid and water in a tank to backwash a water deionizer at my first job. Of course I did this task 2 or 3 times before the right way, I guess my "18 year old mind" was on more important things. Please be carefull...........

 

[red vette mike]

That Muratic Acid is some bad stuff. You need to wear chemical proof gloves. rubber boots, and especially eye protection and a respirator. I was pouring the acid into the water and some of it 'glooped' back out and got on my glove. I could easily see how it could spit up into your eye. When you see what it does to that concrete you will know you don't want to get it on you or smelling it.

 

[raymon1717]

Thanks for all the advice. It turned out to be well worth it once I saw what a couple straight drops did when it hit my driveway. Green, smoky.... this stuff was no joke. In either case the etching is done and was a success. I first used the bottle that came with the Epoxy-Coat kit and that worked to some extent when diluted, but I wasn't satisfied. So I cracked open the Muriatic acid I bought from Home depot, diluted as per bmwpower's advice, and that stuff really did a job on the floor.

I then layed down the epoxy-coat and it dryed over last night. I checked it this morning and it looks really good. I may be able to get away with the 1 coat. I layed it on thick (total SQF only 380). The Epoxy-Coat was stellar; I can't say enough good about the paint quality itself. My only issue was that I really stink at flecking. It's OK though, still looks good.

I took pictures, but this site only allows a small size. I will either take them at a lower resolution or see if I can convert them somehow.

What can I do with the left over acid? I really do not like keeping it around....and don't really see another need down the road.

 

[boiler7904]

What can I do with the left over acid? I really do not like keeping it around....and don't really see another need down the road.

See if your town or county has an upcoming hazardous waste collection date set where they collect old paint, batteries, automotive fluids, etc. The option is to call the company that picks up your trash and see what they offer.

I lucked out and was able to give my extra to once of my fiance's uncles since he is about to epoxy his garage.

 

[W-Cummins]

You can add a LOT of water to it and then SLOWLY add some baking soda (mixed in water), to that ( do this outside and in an open container like a dishpan) After it stops fizzing when you add the baking soda, you have converted it into a harmless salt, and you can pour it down the drain ( you could also use a dilute lye solution ( makes common table salt out of the mix NaCl)
but if you don't know what your doing the baking soda would be better)

You should use all the above protection gear ( gloves and eye protection) listed when you neutralize the acid


William...

 

[eharrill]

I am doing the same thing you are but I wanted to ask a few questions. Was there a sealer on your floor and if so how did you get it off? I put a new garage onto the house and the new floor I didn't seal but the old one is sealed....... any thoughts???????

 

[raymon1717]

I am doing the same thing you are but I wanted to ask a few questions. Was there a sealer on your floor and if so how did you get it off? I put a new garage onto the house and the new floor I didn't seal but the old one is sealed....... any thoughts???????

No, sorry mine was not sealed. I did however do multiple applications of cleaner/degreaser and acid. From what I hear you need to remove the sealer, and after working with the stuff I can see why. I is really nice when done though....you will love it!

 

[mb190sl]

eharrill,
I had a fairly new concrete floor that had only been used for storage that had been sealed. When I tried to use Muratic acid to etch, you could easily see all the areas that still had sealer. The acid would not penetrate through the sealer. I found that lacquer thinner easily took the sealer off. I ended up scrubbing the floor with a dry wall sander, the kind with the swivel head on a long wooden handle, and a Scotch Brite pad. Poured a little thinner on the floor and scrubbed lightly. When I was done, I washed the floor with TSP and then did the Muratic acid.

I must state the obvious, don't do this with any type of open flame, pilot light, etc. Work in a ± 5’ x 5’ area then move to the next. Use plenty of ventilation. It worked nicely for me.