My $15 compressor...lots of power

[Mikeyworks]

So, I regularly search for stuff on Ebay that is nearby and has no reserve...and this compressor came up about 20 miles from the house. Now remember kiddies, 20 miles by Ebay standards is as the crow flies, it was about 45 minutes from the house...

...back to the story, this compressor came up with a $14.99 start price and no reserve. The compressor head was disassembled and needed work. The motor had not started in years. I figured I would play with it if I could get it cheap. At the end of the auction it had ZERO bids on it so in the last 10 minutes I threw a bid at it and won for a whopping $14.99.

I got it home, found out it's a Campbell Hausfeld compressor with a 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine and ~15 gallon tank. The compressor reeds were toast and the cylinders were taken off completely. I ordered new reeds from CH and put the whole thing back together. It was covered with grease so it went down to the spray stand and got about $5 worth of degreaser and power clean...

After it was all said and done, this is what I ended up with:

I'm probably about $45 total into the whole thing and it fires up strong with a quick shot of starter fluid. It will get up to 100 psi in about 20 seconds flat and even with the valve wide open, it will maintain 45 psi as along as the engine stays running.

This will likley be my off-site compressor and strong media blasting unit.

I can't wait to play around with it some.

Maybe it will get a nice coat of paint to clean it up, but I kinda like the old/worn look.

Mikey

 

[Bib Overalls]

Cool. My compressor has been apart for the better part of a year. Something I need to get working on.

 

[Steve in Mi]

I ordered new reeds from CH

I'm about to place an order for reed (Sears calls them flipper) valves, head and valve body gaskets for my 1971 CH compressor. If you'll provide your contact info at CH and pricing I can compare pricing. TIA.

 

[Vicegrip]

That pump unit is also sold under the Speed-air brand through Granger. Yours looks like one that was converted from electric to gas power. i think it used to have a compressor end pulley that had fan blades moulded into it for cooling. How is the pressure controlled? Is there an pressure unloader or throttle control for the motor with cylinder unloader? The head unloader tube (the small 1/4 tube) looks like it is not connected to anything. This is where many compressors have the pressure control that turns the motor on and off and unloads the head during startup.
needless to say if you don't have any pressure control your compressor is not safe to use as is but I bet could be set up with one if there is not one now.

 

[C_F]

Everything but the gas engine & the large pulley looks just like a Speedaire I got from my Father in law. Mine's got dead reeds too I guess, because it will only pump up to about 40 psi before it slows down & locks up the motor...popping the circuit breaker.

 

[Aceman]

Mine's got dead reeds too I guess, because it will only pump up to about 40 psi before it slows down & locks up the motor...popping the circuit breaker.

That's usually indicates an undersized circuit. Electric motors start drawing more current as the pressure increases. If the circuit is on a 15 amp breaker find a different one with a 20 amp rating to plug into.

 

[Mikeyworks]

I'm about to place an order for reed (Sears calls them flipper) valves, head and valve body gaskets for my 1971 CH compressor. If you'll provide your contact info at CH and pricing I can compare pricing. TIA.

My search for CH parts can be tracked here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7332

...and there's an 800 number for CH listed in the thread. They were great!

You can also e-mail them at: [email protected]

Mikey

 

[Mikeyworks]

That pump unit is also sold under the Speed-air brand through Granger. Yours looks like one that was converted from electric to gas power. i think it used to have a compressor end pulley that had fan blades moulded into it for cooling. How is the pressure controlled? Is there an pressure unloader or throttle control for the motor with cylinder unloader? The head unloader tube (the small 1/4 tube) looks like it is not connected to anything. This is where many compressors have the pressure control that turns the motor on and off and unloads the head during startup.
needless to say if you don't have any pressure control your compressor is not safe to use as is but I bet could be set up with one if there is not one now.

If you can find a pic of that unit, that would be great. I don't doubt this was a bit of a home made job. It's heavy duty enough, but there's not real markings or plates on it to indicate who made the whole unit. To me that usually signifies home made job.

As for the pressure control. As you can see in the pics below, there's a pressure control/cylinder head unloader. When it gets to 120 psi it releases all the pressure from the head and the motor gets a nice break, until the pressure gets low enough to reset. It also has a bleed valve with pull ring.

My only challenge right now is a slight leak at the base of the main tube. I will pull that and clean all the threads and reseal it to ensure that I can get it sealed up tight. I will also inspect all the valves to ensure they are working right. Many years of sitting can do terrible things to (normally) moving parts.

Mikey

 

[Steve in Mi]

Thanks for the link to the previous thread. Looks like about the same price as Sears @$3.70 per reed. Shopping basket;
http://www3.sears.com/scripts/webparts.dll?Pricing?Count=4&Parts=PartNum0%3DVS%252D18%26Div0%3D0030%26Pls0%3D106%26imageKey0%3D9%26suffix0%3DNA%26PartNum1%3DXA%252D35%26Div1%3D0030%26Pls1%3D106%26imageKey1%3D7%26suffix1%3DNA%26PartNum2%3DXA%252D34%26Div2%3D0030%26Pls2%3D106%26imageKey2%3D11%26suffix2%3DNA%26PartNum3%3DVT%252D8%26Div3%3D0030%26Pls3%3D106%26imageKey3%3D3%26suffix3%3DNA%26&partsreportid=0

A parts list is here;
http://www3.sears.com/Paul/partlist_search.asp?page_id=00001&prd_typ_id=0703000&bnd_id=0247&model_desc=SEARS%20TWIN%20CYLINDER%20TANK%20TYPE%20PAINT%20SPRAYER&model_num=106153540&doc_id=00012027&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=REPLACEMENT%20PARTS&titleID=00001&SearchType=TITLE&

Click on the SHOW DIAGRAM for the IPB of the electric CH compressor (a few different models).

The stalled motor problem may be caused by a defective check valve, located at the base of the feed line as it connects at the tank.

 

[Vicegrip]

i can get you a picture of a fan/pully. I too am a sucker for a bargain in the rough.

EDIT Steve in Mi posted as i was typing, his helpful links have the fan/pully in them.

 

[C_F]

That's usually indicates an undersized circuit. Electric motors start drawing more current as the pressure increases. If the circuit is on a 15 amp breaker find a different one with a 20 amp rating to plug into.

I hadn't thought of that. The motor's wired for 110 or 220. I don't have 220 in my garage currently, so I switched it to 110...that could be my problem. I guess I should try it out in my electric dryer outlet before I assume the problem's in the compressor.

The stalled motor problem may be caused by a defective check valve, located at the base of the feed line as it connects at the tank.

Is this in response to my problem?
Mine has the same type of 'manifold' as Mikeyworks' compressor does, where the feed line connects. I don't recall if mine has the unloader valve, though...is that the check valve you're talking about, or is it the one with the pull ring?

 

[cyclopsblown34]

The one with the pull ring should be a presure relief that opens around 160psi or so to prevent bursting the tank.

 

[Steve in Mi]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in Mi

The stalled motor problem may be caused by a defective check valve, located at the base of the feed line as it connects at the tank.

Is this in response to my problem?
Mine has the same type of 'manifold' as Mikeyworks' compressor does, where the feed line connects. I don't recall if mine has the unloader valve, though...is that the check valve you're talking about, or is it the one with the pull ring?

Sorry for the delay. My parts finally arrived (gaskets were backordered at Sears) and the new reed/flapper valves are now installed.
Yes. See photo for check valve location.