Justanoldguy
Well-known member
What thickness Hardies panels are they?
My 24 X 40 Workshop Build
- Thread starter jrocco
- Start date
hardie siding panels are 5/16 thick, but you can get sofit hardie in 1/4.
Garage build looks good. I too built my own trusses. the way to go if youve got the time. when i got truss prices, one of the builders gave me a load plan with the quote, so i just went off that.
If you ever have to put hardie panels up by yourself again, nail about a 4-5' 2x4 onto the edge of a block(foundation height) about 12-18" back. then you can sit the hardie on the edge, then stand on the other side to get height right. Then on the tops, temp nail a 2x on the wall to sit on.
Garage build looks good. I too built my own trusses. the way to go if youve got the time. when i got truss prices, one of the builders gave me a load plan with the quote, so i just went off that.
If you ever have to put hardie panels up by yourself again, nail about a 4-5' 2x4 onto the edge of a block(foundation height) about 12-18" back. then you can sit the hardie on the edge, then stand on the other side to get height right. Then on the tops, temp nail a 2x on the wall to sit on.
OSB then R-Max Panels then Hardie direct on top. I did not see a reason to batten it out.
51rider
Well-known member
Thank you.
I ask about the battening as Hardie show on their website the use of batten to give a 25mm air gap.
I am looking to use cementatious board on my proposed build, but was planning to screw the board directly to the stud with just a vapour barrier between the them. The board would then have a coloured render coat applied (saves painting-only need to power wash).
Insulation would be installed between the studs and then vapour checked Gtec (fire rated)plasterboard fixed to the studs internally. I was thinking of going with oversize studs (6x2") & using 4" deep insulation. The resulting void would be used to run all my cables & pipework behind.
Not sure which way to go with it.....
I took off the weekend of 5/6/10 (Car Shows and some needed R&R). But as of May 12, 2010 - I officially declare that major contruction is completed. 
Building is finished will all sofit, facia and trim. My Grandson Tim came over and gave me a hand with the Facia and Hardie Sofit Panels.
Note: The Hardie Sofit Panels are 16" Wide and 12' Long. It is almost a 3 man job to put them up. My Grandson & I had all we could do (working on ladders) to hoist them overhead and get some nails in them. Again, If I had know about the weight.............
As of Friday 5/14/10, I finished all the interior wiring, and calking of the exterior.
To Go:
Underground Service from House, Interior Lights, Paint Exterior, Epoxy Coat Floor, Install Garage Doors. The end is in sight.
Building is finished will all sofit, facia and trim. My Grandson Tim came over and gave me a hand with the Facia and Hardie Sofit Panels.
Note: The Hardie Sofit Panels are 16" Wide and 12' Long. It is almost a 3 man job to put them up. My Grandson & I had all we could do (working on ladders) to hoist them overhead and get some nails in them. Again, If I had know about the weight.............
As of Friday 5/14/10, I finished all the interior wiring, and calking of the exterior.
To Go:
Underground Service from House, Interior Lights, Paint Exterior, Epoxy Coat Floor, Install Garage Doors. The end is in sight.
Well I am all moved in and ready for some serious deconstruction on my next project. A 1964 Ford Fairlane Thunderbolt "Tribute" Car.
2 Post Asmetrical Lift set up on far end.
On the Left Side: Workbenches - Two 3' Deep X 8' Long. Tops are solid core doors with formica covering.
I built "skate boards" for storage under the workbenches. Each has 4 casters for easy movability (and cleaning under the work benches).
Shelf storage are 8' sections of wire shelves supported by 2 x 4 bracing bolted to the studs. This is a cheap way to get shelf storage. The wire shelves are $10 for an 8' section.
Beyond them are my tool boxes.
On the Right Side is a single Work Bench that I have set up as a welding table. All the "dirty work: is done here. Also on that side is an Air Compressor, Blast Cabinet, and Parts Washing Cabinet.
1st on the lift is my 1980 F100 Pickup for an oil change. It is really nice not to have to work on my back under jack stands.
Special thanks to all my friends and relatives that helped me on this construction. I could have not done this without them.
Total Costs:
Foundation: $4K
Complete Building including all electrical and doors: $10K
2-Post Lift: $500 (used) + $300 in hoses, repair parts, and paint.
My dream garage came in under $15K
2 Post Asmetrical Lift set up on far end.
On the Left Side: Workbenches - Two 3' Deep X 8' Long. Tops are solid core doors with formica covering.
I built "skate boards" for storage under the workbenches. Each has 4 casters for easy movability (and cleaning under the work benches).
Shelf storage are 8' sections of wire shelves supported by 2 x 4 bracing bolted to the studs. This is a cheap way to get shelf storage. The wire shelves are $10 for an 8' section.
Beyond them are my tool boxes.
On the Right Side is a single Work Bench that I have set up as a welding table. All the "dirty work: is done here. Also on that side is an Air Compressor, Blast Cabinet, and Parts Washing Cabinet.
1st on the lift is my 1980 F100 Pickup for an oil change. It is really nice not to have to work on my back under jack stands.
Special thanks to all my friends and relatives that helped me on this construction. I could have not done this without them.
Total Costs:
Foundation: $4K
Complete Building including all electrical and doors: $10K
2-Post Lift: $500 (used) + $300 in hoses, repair parts, and paint.
My dream garage came in under $15K
RbrtAWhyt
Well-known member
That hardware storage next to the door kicks ***...
Rando
Well-known member
Awesome job love the layout
Timo
Member
Great job - nice to have all of the family help too - this will make it even more of a special place
Cheers
T_
Cheers
T_
Those are 4 Dorman cabinets that I picked up surplus at a local auto parts store. Yes they are Kick ***
You have a wonderful workshop there. You have the width to do nice work on one car at a time and the length to do the fabrication area. This shop is what a lot of people should have when they are looking to do work on a vehicle. It will soon fill with parts but should be good for ONE rig undergoing a major build. I do envy you having doors on each end for the drive through feature. The only suggestion I would make is to get some fire proof material on the wall in the welding area. I always have a fear that some hot metal will roll into the wall area and start a fire. Beat wishes in your new area and be safe.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
Thanks for the suggestion. I am building a steel top for the table that will have a 10" high back splash. But you made me think. I could use some scraps from the Hardy Siding to completely close off the area above the table.
Interesting how we think different, I usually am more worried about slag rolling along the floor and getting up against the bottom of the wall where there may be sawdust and stuff to get the fire started.
lg
no neat sig line