8man
Well-known member
Here is the lay out for my shop and I hope this PDF opens up.
I'm in the planning stages right now. Trying to figure out things like stud walls, 2 post lift placement, etc. We have the house for sale and when it sells, we'll start the new place, so this thread may be dormant for a while once I get some ideas sorted out.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=324693&d=1394480446
The man door and the two 10 x 10 garage doors are on the front. The smaller garage door is into the wife's gardening room. I saw that on some other threads on here and liked it! The small room on the northwest corner is a powder room. I'm pretty sure the folks in that subdivided neighborhood wouldn't appreciate me and my buds taking a whiz in the yard.
There is a garage door in the back directly opposite the one on the right front so I can pull a trailer through into the back yard. I know it doesn't appear to line up on the drawing, but I'll fix that before we get to construction or even plan approval.
I'm leaving 2' on the west side of the two garage doors. I think that is enough room for some storage of things over there, like the press, engine hoist, 40 gallon compressor, etc. The work bench will go on the west wall, with the space between the man door and "middle" garage door for my welding cutting stuff.
I am planning on 12' walls so I can use my 2 post lift. I plan to place the lift toward the rear of the building on the side with the two garage doors. This way I can pull my truck in and have room to walk around it without getting to the lift, but if I want to pull it up on the lift I can pull it a little forward onto the lift and still clear the rear door.
The 12' studs will probably be on 24" centers since there will be no load above, and I'm in central Texas, so no snow or hurricanes to contend with. Tornadoes just mean "I hope I'm somewhere else when they hit "cause I'm going to loose it all anyway". If anyone thinks 24" centers should be 16", please let's discuss it.
It will have AC and heat - I actually handle the heat better than the cold, but even so it just gets too hot for me to work outside in the summers around here.
The wife's garden room has an 8' garage door and yes she has to enter either through my shop or the powder room. Right now it is 10' deep by 17' wide, with 3.5' of that in the powder room. I could be convinced to reduce that size a little, so long as I can get her lawn tractor with the female grips in there and some gardening stuff. "Always buy the one with the female grips, then they can't ask you to use it," a quote from a naval aviator buddy. The little corner room in her garden room is for my compressor - so it doesn't deafen me while working in the shop with it running.
I think I can use manufactured joists for a stick built shop, without having to go to overkill on the ceiling joists or support columns in the middle of the room. I have never used "roof trusses", but I am certainly open to consider them. I have read about "scissor" trusses as a way to raise the ceiling in the shop and that intrigues me. If I do that, I could use 8' studs on the wife's garden room and use the area over the top of it for additional storage. Not that I need more storage, oh wait I'm channeling someone else.
If I use engineered joists, the attic won't be much since I'm planning on a hip roof and that lessens the load the ceiling joists will handle. I could go with a gable roof, that would increase brick costs, but not much more, so it is a consideration. If I did, I could have more storage up there and that would entail engineered trusses to handle the load. It doesn't have to be a true 36' clear span since I can us the corner of the garden room for joist support if I have to. I don't really want to do that because I like the idea of storage over the top. I have to reconsider that gable roof thing!
Brick on front and maybe 4' back on the sides, then siding on the rest of the 3 sides. ACC rules you know.
It will have an engineered slab to go in when the house slab goes in. I already have the soils report and once I lock in the design for the building and get the house plans finished we'll have the slabs designed.
I started at 36' wide by 32' deep, but when I added her garden room, it cut the west side back to a bay depth that was too short for my F350. I know they can never be big enough, so it was easy to say "sure let's make it 36' deep so the truck will park right there."
Anyway, let me know what you think of my plans so far. If someone has a better idea, I'm open as I have time to think and process it before we start.
I'm in the planning stages right now. Trying to figure out things like stud walls, 2 post lift placement, etc. We have the house for sale and when it sells, we'll start the new place, so this thread may be dormant for a while once I get some ideas sorted out.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=324693&d=1394480446
The man door and the two 10 x 10 garage doors are on the front. The smaller garage door is into the wife's gardening room. I saw that on some other threads on here and liked it! The small room on the northwest corner is a powder room. I'm pretty sure the folks in that subdivided neighborhood wouldn't appreciate me and my buds taking a whiz in the yard.
There is a garage door in the back directly opposite the one on the right front so I can pull a trailer through into the back yard. I know it doesn't appear to line up on the drawing, but I'll fix that before we get to construction or even plan approval.
I'm leaving 2' on the west side of the two garage doors. I think that is enough room for some storage of things over there, like the press, engine hoist, 40 gallon compressor, etc. The work bench will go on the west wall, with the space between the man door and "middle" garage door for my welding cutting stuff.
I am planning on 12' walls so I can use my 2 post lift. I plan to place the lift toward the rear of the building on the side with the two garage doors. This way I can pull my truck in and have room to walk around it without getting to the lift, but if I want to pull it up on the lift I can pull it a little forward onto the lift and still clear the rear door.
The 12' studs will probably be on 24" centers since there will be no load above, and I'm in central Texas, so no snow or hurricanes to contend with. Tornadoes just mean "I hope I'm somewhere else when they hit "cause I'm going to loose it all anyway". If anyone thinks 24" centers should be 16", please let's discuss it.
It will have AC and heat - I actually handle the heat better than the cold, but even so it just gets too hot for me to work outside in the summers around here.
The wife's garden room has an 8' garage door and yes she has to enter either through my shop or the powder room. Right now it is 10' deep by 17' wide, with 3.5' of that in the powder room. I could be convinced to reduce that size a little, so long as I can get her lawn tractor with the female grips in there and some gardening stuff. "Always buy the one with the female grips, then they can't ask you to use it," a quote from a naval aviator buddy. The little corner room in her garden room is for my compressor - so it doesn't deafen me while working in the shop with it running.
I think I can use manufactured joists for a stick built shop, without having to go to overkill on the ceiling joists or support columns in the middle of the room. I have never used "roof trusses", but I am certainly open to consider them. I have read about "scissor" trusses as a way to raise the ceiling in the shop and that intrigues me. If I do that, I could use 8' studs on the wife's garden room and use the area over the top of it for additional storage. Not that I need more storage, oh wait I'm channeling someone else.
If I use engineered joists, the attic won't be much since I'm planning on a hip roof and that lessens the load the ceiling joists will handle. I could go with a gable roof, that would increase brick costs, but not much more, so it is a consideration. If I did, I could have more storage up there and that would entail engineered trusses to handle the load. It doesn't have to be a true 36' clear span since I can us the corner of the garden room for joist support if I have to. I don't really want to do that because I like the idea of storage over the top. I have to reconsider that gable roof thing!
Brick on front and maybe 4' back on the sides, then siding on the rest of the 3 sides. ACC rules you know.
It will have an engineered slab to go in when the house slab goes in. I already have the soils report and once I lock in the design for the building and get the house plans finished we'll have the slabs designed.
I started at 36' wide by 32' deep, but when I added her garden room, it cut the west side back to a bay depth that was too short for my F350. I know they can never be big enough, so it was easy to say "sure let's make it 36' deep so the truck will park right there."
Anyway, let me know what you think of my plans so far. If someone has a better idea, I'm open as I have time to think and process it before we start.