My 56 Ford Victoria Build Thread

[venturesomerite]

I thought I'd share with you the project that takes up the most room in my garage.


1956 Ford Victoria 2dr - her name is Abby

So I've known this car all my life, was one of my father's cars that fell to the wayside, and now I'm bringing her back to life. I should note, that he bought this car as it was, and did not build it.

She's been sitting in this spot for 15 years, uncovered, neglected and forgotten. She was hot rodded some 30 years ago, stout FE motor and a 4 speed, traction bars, nosed and decked, louvered hood, battery in the trunk, etc.

This is the car when I first started to do work to it, getting it going so that I could drive it onto a trailer and move it.

Motor almost as I found it

Motor after being cleaned and some work done.

Video - Click picture to view




Block casting

Head Casting

Front Cross Member damage (the real reason I can't drive at the moment)

Over all, not too bad

 

[venturesomerite]

After years of anticipation, I have finally gotten to work on her!
It's actually doable no because it is where I have tools, and don't have to bring things with me, and indoors, so I might actually get something done.

Thank god my dad only bought the car, and did not build it! I know he would never do the kinda work that I found!

Started out by removing the seats, and carpet. Front seats were held on my some bent carriage bolts, and rear seats were held on by hose clamps, yeah, hose clamps.

Cleaned out yet MORE ACORNS! Everytime I think I got em all, there's more.

Then I saw the trans tunnel for the first time. I knew it was a hack job, but I had no idea..... But atleast now I know why it was so hard to hit reverse, it was hitting the tunnel.

Then, it gets worse....

And what you see here is all bondo and undercoating, from the outside! Never mind what I chipped off the inside.

Remove some metal, find some bondo....Remove some metal, find some bondo....

And when all the **** is out, this is what I am left with.

All in all, there were 14 patches botched together to make a tunnel. I would estimate conservatively that there were 150 self tapping screws, and around 200 pop rivets, with give or take 3-4 gallons of bondo, and god knows how much of 3 different kinds of epoxy. If you're gonna go through all that trouble, why do that bad of a job? I mean, come on that had to have taken a long time to do.

Well, I guess it was worth it though, found two nice suprises. Didn't know I had a hurst shifter (whole shifter, not just the stick) and an ansen bell housing.

I had some time today so I got out the wire wheel to strip a few spots to see what I'm up against here.

I am convinced that by the time I am done, the car will be 300 lbs lighter, there is more bondo on this car than I have ever seen.....

On the plus side, there is a half inch of bondo over straight clean metal too, so maybe it was preserving it? Of course, found some more questionable repairs, and some not even tryings....

When fit and finish is critical, always reach for a big @$$ wood screw.

At this point I turned out the lights and went home for the night. I guess I'll start getting good at body work, or make some friends that can.

 

[venturesomerite]

Got pushed aside for a while, had to move my shop etc....

Finally got a chance to do a little work today. Removed, you guessed it, more bondo. Also pulled the headlights, grille, and a fender.

What's behind the fender, bondo hair around the fresh air duct, literally an inch thick. This is getting kinda old here...

Makes you need a coffee.... Oh wait, that's the other side of air duct, maxwell house coffee can!

 

[MoToys]

That's some rough work, reminds me of the hack job cj my friend picked up 2 years ago. Felt kinda guilty after a week or so when we realized the truck was rougher than initial inspection. It turned out to be a hack job at every corner.

 

[PCO6]

That's one of my favourite cars! We used to have one in the family. Quick story is that in 1956 my Grandfather told my Grandmother that if she got her license he'd buy her a car. He came home one night and found a picture of one just like yours (but light gray) sitting on his chair at the dinner table. He sat on it and didn't say a word. One week later she found the same car sitting in the driveway.

She replaced in 1962 with a 2 dr. Chevy Impala. I bought that car in 1970 when she got a 2 door Cutlass. My Grandmother had good taste when it came to cars.

You have your work cut out for you and I wish you good luck with it.

 

[venturesomerite]

The part that really kills me on this car is that aside from the doors, everywhere that has a ton of bondo, has good sheet metal underneath. They just didn't take the time to line up/ weld them right. So I think that I should be able to save most of it by cutting out the old welds and aligning and welding it correctly.

The bottoms of the doors are another story, kind looks like they didn't even try.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

That's one of my favourite cars!

I have to say, 56 Ford is my favorite car ever. I have another 56 Fairlane as well, see below:

 

[Big-Foot]

Brian,

I applaud you for your efforts to bring this one back...

I was in the same boat with an old Nova that was just rust, fiberglass, cardboard and foam insulation sprayed with undercoating to hold it together long enough to fool the buyer (me) into thinking it had solid floor pans etc... I bought it when it was 32 degrees outside and pouring rain after having driven my truck and trailer 10 hours in that **** with my scared wife.. I could have strangled that lying sob when I finally got it home and into a dry place where I could get a better look.
Anyways, you have quite a project there. I believe you can buy patch panels, quarters etc for almost any American made 2 door car.
Keep the faith and if it starts getting you down, move on to something else for a while..

 

[Az Scooter]

I am so jealous. I love the 56 ford body style. I would love to have a decent Ranch Wagon. Good luck on the build. That will definitely be a labor that requires love and patience.

 

[hardly]

Man, I hate to see a classic like this abused and neglected, in the rust-belt, no-less! It's going to take some real perseverance and determination to bring this one back. Hope you are up to the task...
(Still, it brings back fond memories of my friend's black '56 w/ white TJ rolls and pleats...
"Where were you in '62...?")

 

[nutjob]

Not sure what the difference between 1955 and 1956 cars are but this might help you:

http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Auto-Restoration-953-Photographs/dp/0879383305/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340476494&sr=8-1&keywords=9780879383305

This is a book published by Cars & Parts mag in 1988.

Practical Auto Restoration in 953 Photographs: The Resurrection of Vicky, a 1955 Ford Crown Victoria Hardtop

Kevin

 

[54FordPanel]

Wow! Are you discouraged yet? I would be. Can you get floors for that? That looks like a whole lot of headache to fix that one, I applaud you for having at it. I dunno what they were doing with that trans tunnel....

Of the tri-year Fords, the '56 is hands down the best looking. It would be sweet to bring it back as a vintage hot rod.

Keep working on it and posting!

Edit: I can't quite read the casting....Is that block casting D4 (1974) and the head casting C3 (1963)?

 

[customcab]

I'll sure be watching this one. The 56 Victoria has always been a favorite of mine. My grandpa had one when I was little. (like the green & white one)
Man that trans tunnel was something else. At least it paid off with a couple of good finds. They sure didn't take any chances with the tunnel interfering with the FE transplant. Geez!
I'm not sure about the tunnel, but the floors are readily available from several sources. Try FRP in Ohio, Mac's, etc. Another great source for early 50's Ford parts is the Crown Vic Association. Dues are cheap and the members and magazine are great. I have several friends in that group and can attest to thier support. Drop me a line if I can be of any help. Good luck!
Phil
Ford Galaxie Club of America #694
63 1/2 390 / 4sp.

Try this link-http://www.frpartsstore.com/

Here's a little inspiration for you from pix I've run across, or taken at shows.

 

[whelenfan]

WOW! I can't wait to see your progress as you get this car back to where is needs to be!

 

[venturesomerite]

Not sure what the difference between 1955 and 1956 cars are but this might help you:


Kevin

I think that I have that book actually, cover looks very familiar!

Wow! Are you discouraged yet? I would be. Can you get floors for that?

Actually, I am not at all discouraged. I look at it as a cool *** car to start with, and I can do anything I want to with out worrying about "destroying the value" 3000 lbs of bondo aside, it's a perfect start.

Floors yes, tunnel, no. I will be using a tunnel from a 57 auto car. (the car that was sitting net to this one for all that time.) I am currently parting it out, and it will be donating anything I see as useful.

Edit: I can't quite read the casting....Is that block casting D4 (1974) and the head casting C3 (1963)?

Heads are 63 yes, block says 4dte. I believe it is a 360 truck motor, with a 3.78" stroke, bored .030 over, which I believe puts it to 396, plus or minus what ever the heads and pistons are. I believe it to be around 10.1 CR. Rear end gears are open highway gears, and it is some ford 9", with I think an aftermarket 3rd member. Logo on it looks like an "M" on top of two "C"s, on C inside the other. Not sure what brand that is.

Man that trans tunnel was something else. At least it paid off with a couple of good finds. They sure didn't take any chances with the tunnel interfering with the FE transplant. Geez!

No Kiddin'! Honestly, I think it would have fit with minimal clearances, and of course a hole for the shifter. I'll have to post a picture of the ****** "mount"....

Try this link-http://www.frpartsstore.com/

Thanks, saved it for the future.





Plans for the car, in no particular order are as follows:
Obviously, fix all rust and "structural improvements" previously done.

Keep: hood louvers, bench seat and most of interior, peep mirror, cat's eyes, do the nose and deck like it should have been done.

Shave: Antenna, door handles, locks, gas fill, plate light, smooth bumpers, use crown victoria headlight bezels and smooth them into the fenders, shave all badging (except for victoria, which I will find another place for on the car)

Add: fuel cell in trunk, mini tub, I have a taurus Efan I will be putting in, black steelies and trim rings and baby moons,lake pipes, aluminum 2x4 intake, use old fresh air in intakes as ram air, power disk brakes (keep rear drums) [should be interesting with an FE in a 56], Line lock, make one off headers, convert to power rack and pinion, custom tubular grille, blinkers behind grille (stealthy), HID's (won't see them in the lens with cat's eyes, led tai lights, maybe a slightly lumpier cam.


Delete: all bondo (lol), all heat and air intakes, front grille and blinkers

Colors: Hot Rod Semi Gloss Black and all chrome will be black chromed.


Baisc Idea: bare bones hot little hot rod, no radio, no air, no non sense. If it don't make it louder or faster, I don't need it.

 

[56rpm]

Man have you got your work cut out for you. Kudos for taking on the rebuild. The 56 Vicky is easily in my top 5 favs. I sure like the louvered hood. As they say in Vegas, good luck!

 

[Brian_B_]

Sweet! I would love to have that car to go with my 56 F-100. Keep us updated. There are enough on this board to help you through the tough parts. That car is not bad at all as far as body. yes...not welded in right, but that is fixable...once you get all the filler off.

The FE block looks like it was yellow originally. As far as I know, the yellow was used on truck blocks and red on cars. At least the Y-blocks were that way. Do you know for sure what it came out of?

 

[venturesomerite]

I believe it to be a 360 truck motor with a 3.78" stroke and bored .030 over

 

[HOTFR8]

This will be an interesting project to watch. I like the Victoria as we never got that model here and I even like the Crowns on the upside we got the Mainline Utility here.
Some sample photos.

 

[Grumpy365]

Thanks for sharing. I like it.

 

[caseyrod]

it looks like you may have a top loader in your hands and thats not all that bad .good luck with your project its looking good!!!!

 

[pain]

Anything going on with this build? Update?

 

[Dave Maxwell]

Cool build. I have a 55 glass top that i hope to finish someday

 

[venturesomerite]

No updates, took a fender, grille and some other stuff off. Going at it every now and again when I can.

Looking into options for power disks up front, and power rack and pinion.
Disks will be easy, older granada and mustang stuff should fit. I have to find a brake boster and res that will fit, which will prove interesting.

Power rack and pinion, I am thinking of stealing one off a caviler, or something of that sort.

 

[unioncreek]

I believe it to be a 360 truck motor with a 3.78" stroke and bored .030 over

If it has a 3.78 inch stroke it's a 390, a 360 has a 3.50 inch stroke. That's going to be a nice ride when your done. Always wanted a Vicky, but have a 62 Galaxie 500 XL right now.

Bob

 

[venturesomerite]

If it has a 3.78 inch stroke it's a 390, a 360 has a 3.50 inch stroke. That's going to be a nice ride when your done. Always wanted a Vicky, but have a 62 Galaxie 500 XL right now.

Bob

The block codes say its a 360 truck motor. I've measured the stroke and it's damn close to 3.75, so I'm guessing 3.78.

 

[venturesomerite]

Discouraged? No. This is a mint new england car!

Actually, it's perfect because I can do what ever I want and not have to worry about ruining a perfectly good, or cherry car.

That said, I could do with a little less bondo.....

 

[jarhead]

Love it!

any progress?

 

[isaac338]

Brian,

I applaud you for your efforts to bring this one back...

I was in the same boat with an old Nova that was just rust, fiberglass, cardboard and foam insulation sprayed with undercoating to hold it together long enough to fool the buyer (me) into thinking it had solid floor pans etc... I bought it when it was 32 degrees outside and pouring rain after having driven my truck and trailer 10 hours in that **** with my scared wife.. I could have strangled that lying sob when I finally got it home and into a dry place where I could get a better look.
Anyways, you have quite a project there. I believe you can buy patch panels, quarters etc for almost any American made 2 door car.
Keep the faith and if it starts getting you down, move on to something else for a while..

I hate assholes that do **** like that. I have to say, though, you violated one of the two golden rules of buying a car - never, ever buy a car at night or in the rain!

 

[KermitFrog]

Subscribed for whenever you update.

I've got a '55 Crown Vic.

 

[Modifieddriver]

I'm doing a '56 Tudor post vintage oval track car restoration right now. It was already a race car that was built by some folks that knew, at that time, what they were doing. Came with an FE in it.

I didn't purchase any patch panels. I just fabricated my own, mostly from 20 gauge steel.

Had to put in three floor boards, patch the transmission tunnel, replace bottoms of front fenders (front and rear), replace bottom 6" of the doors, replace part of the rockers, replace rear quarters on both sides in front and behind the wheel and tire. Fortunately the trunk floor is gone and so are the front fender inners.

I think these rusty areas are standard equipment from the factory.

If my memory serves me, those heads C3AE-C are 406 3x2 Hi-Po.

That blow-up proof bell is worth several hundred dollars. The drag race car restorers want those, primarily the 427 guys with '62 up cars.

With FE engines there's no real good way to tell what it is until you pull them apart.

Only tip off would be cross bolted blocks or side oiler. Some say you can tell a 428 by looking at the casting marks on the block behind the flywheel.

If the flywheel or flex plate has a counter weight on it'll be either a 429 or a 410. They are externally balanced.

You'll spend a bunch of time on the metal work. The floor supports are probably toast. All the sheet metal parts you need are made, but are expensive. That's why I fabricated all my own, especially for a race car.

The rusted out front X-member is also standard equipment. Fab up a new one up out off square tubing. Somebody sells them, but it's priced way high.

 

[Cobra4B]

Very cool... Subscribed for updates.

 

[venturesomerite]

An older before picture:

Now:

I think after I finish this part up, and also patch in the rest of the lip that gets hidden under the bumper, I am going to work on grafting the skin from a 57 fairlane to patch this trunk lid. Should prove interesting.

Also smoothed one of the seams where the quarter meets the under trunk part. Welded them up, and also added some material to smooth the lower part's transition to the lip as well:

Here's the one I didn't do yet for reference.

And the smoothed one.

Now the motor is ready to be pulled.
If anyone is wondering why I pulled the whole front clip to get the*motor out, I didn't It's all rusty and ******, and all needs to come off anyways. I have to get some steel to make up a cradle before I can pull the motor. I'm also going to pull the dash and fab up my new trans tunnel/floor before I pull and paint the motor. If you wonder why I have to pull the dash, just scroll back a page or two and look at the grand canyon in the car.

Started stripping some more paint. I actually found a good surprise for once, clean sheet metal.

Also started stripping the hood, I have to say, I kinda expected the louvers to be bondoed on like the ricers do with the scoops.

Also out of curiosity, I wacked the bondo air duct with a hammer. Turns out it's HVAC duct metal, wrapped in masking tape to hold the shape, then fiberglasses. So I guess no bondo there at least. And yey, another coffee Can!!

 

[KermitFrog]

Here's a little motivation for you. It's not perfect. Wide whites will be added next month.

 

[venturesomerite]

That would look sweet with wide whites

 

[KermitFrog]

That would look sweet with wide whites

I forgot. Lancer caps too. It's my dad's car he insisted on getting because he had a '56 sedan new in high school with a factory 312 and he said it came with a 2x4 kit in the trunk. Anyhow, the Crown he refuses to drive - he's getting up there in age. It is upgraded to power disc brakes in the front.

What color are you thinking on doing the '56?

 

[venturesomerite]

What do the lancer caps look like, I can't picture them in my head right now.



Most likely a semi gloss black, mostly for monetary reasons. I can barely afford to fix her, never mind paint her nice. One day in the distant future, I'd love to do a real nice Gloss black. I think these cars look amazing in black.

Honestly I'm not really worried about paint, I just want to drive the hell out of her. Custom headers off a big FE banging through a top loader.... The stuff dreams are made of...

Whatever the color, it won't be red. My other 56 is red and white.

 

[Brad54]

What a great project!!!

I don't think I'd try screwing around with a rack and pinion... just rebuild the stock box and front suspension. I've driven a '54 Buick and '61 Chevy Suburban daily for years... There is no reason for a rack and pinion. Power steering, yes, but not a rack.

Disc brakes are nice too.

I wonder if that mangled floor is from an exploded clutch. It seems odd that a guy would drop in a plain FE with a 4bbl, and 4-speed, and not use the stock bellhousing. But it WOULD make sense to stick an Ansen in there after having The Thundering Herd come through the floor once.

-Brad

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Ive had much worse projects over the years,Id say find an old 4 dr parts car and a 4" grinder with a bunch of metal cut off wheels.
Get yourself a whole bunch of rust neutralizer also to spray parts down with after you think theyre clean youd be surprised how much rust is still in there.

 

[03protege]

Man I want a 50's car so bad. Such style.

 

[rmsg0040]

Funny got the rockauto newsletter.

Repair Mistakes & Blunders

Guy and his 55 crown vic:

http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/index.html