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my 59 effe--apart

59f100

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Nov 12, 2009
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long island
:scared:took it apart & started on the chassis.i did 95% of taking it a part my self,leg still broke. had my friends put the chassis on work horses,i did all wire wheeling & grinding my self. when it was ready for paint i towed it to my sons garage,he & my grandson helped paint it & put the rear & front end back on.
 

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Dan in Pasadena

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Nicely done. What did you paint the frame with? A guy on 67-72chevytrucks.com has done his with Rustoleum Pro after their pro primer and it looks fantastic. Did you rattle can it or use a spray gun?
 
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59f100

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Nov 12, 2009
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long island
i tried to put more pics, but i did somthing wrong. the chassis is going to be painted,i used eastwood rust converter & the black is rust ecapsulater,witch came out better than i expected,the chassis is finished with eastwoods 2k ceramic chassis black,its satin gloss &really looks great. i will be putting up more pics soon
 
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59f100

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long island
hotfr8 its an aframe tow bar, i have over 200 pics. i will be putting up more. my plans are stock looks, 302 30 over, e303 cam, winsor jr heads, air gap intake,carter 625 carb, all new. aod trans, orignal 9 in. rear. so far.
 

HOTFR8

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hotfr8 its an aframe tow bar, i have over 200 pics. i will be putting up more. my plans are stock looks, 302 30 over, e303 cam, winsor jr heads, air gap intake,carter 625 carb, all new. aod trans, orignal 9 in. rear. so far.

:thumbup:Would simply love to see more. I am specialy interested in that A frame but want to see more of the project as you progress.
 

rickairmedic

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May 31, 2005
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louisville ,Ky
59 looks like a great project . I have a 62 F 100 shortbed unibody and a 63 F100 longbed unibody . Heres a group of great guys who will be loads of help on your build Slick 60's.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/


They are mostly into 61-66 Ford Trucks but we do have quite a few members with 57-60 Fords as well.

By the way you dont have an Effie you have a Fridge :D.

Ford Trucks lineage

53-56 Effie
57-60 Fridge
61-66 Slick
67-72 Bumpside
73-79 Dentside
80 and up not old enough to classify yet :D


Rick
 

Jack Olsen

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But please, keep the pictures in one thread so people can find it with a search in the future (and you don't crowd out other threads now). All you have to do is click on 'post reply' in your own thread. You don't need to start a new one each time.

Nice project, though.
 
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59f100

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Nov 12, 2009
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long island
never heard of fridge (execpt to hold my beer) i just heard of that site yesterday, at a ford dealer in town. had my 03 f150 serviced & inspected. sorry jack, is there a way to combine the two? im having a little trouble putting up pics, im sure its me im not a computer guy. thanks for your help.
 

z28snksknr

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Turnersville, NJ
Nice work. I'm in the progress of cleaning up my '54 frame right now and your's looks like it turned out well. Looking forward following your progress.

BTW, it looks like your cab is in decent shape - are the corners rotted at all? Mine is barely suitable for scrap metal, so I'm trying to get an idea of how bad other's are when they start out.
 
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59f100

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Nov 12, 2009
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Location
long island
my frame came out great, i used eastwoods products, my son sprayed my final coat. i used eastwood ceramic chassis paint. as for my cab,looks are deciving. all four corners were rotted,the front door posts were the worst.most of bottom 6 inches had to be cut out & fabricated. the steps & rises are being replaced,& i have new rear cab corners. the floor & front braces, one side i replaced 1/2 front floor, other side 1/4 floor replaced & 2 new braces. sorry it won't upload all my pics.
 

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bgarrett

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Feb 11, 2006
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.

By the way you dont have an Effie you have a Fridge :D.

Ford Trucks lineage

53-56 Effie
57-60 Fridge
61-66 Slick
67-72 Bumpside
73-79 Dentside
80 and up not old enough to classify yet :D


Rick

My grandmothers name was Effie
 
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59f100

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long island
tell grandma effie i said hello
the bottom of the cab was a lot of rot. if it wasnt for rear cab mounts the cab would fall off on a turn. im learning to fabricate.:headscrat not bad for a first time welder.i borrowed an old welder, it welded like **** (see floor board patch compared to front post) i bought a new lincon mig, what a diffrence.
 

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e-tek

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Lemme guess - Flux core, right? ;) Do the gas conversion - you'll wonder why you didn't!

Nice fabrication work - good to see you putting it all together with clamps first. Another trick is to use self-tapping screws. That'll hold pieces exaclty as you want them, then you can tack weld around and right through the holes.

The Eastwood Chassis Black looks GREAT. I used POR15 as my base on a 56 Chevy I'm doing, but just got some Eastwood Chassis Black 2K. Looks like the right choice!

IMG_2930.JPG


As for your photo's, you may want to look into Picasa or Photobucket. You just upload them all into one or the other, then copy the link into the box that comes up when you click on the IMAGE box here. Then they come out like this: (my 46 MErc!). Cheers - keep 'em coming!!

IMG_2872.JPG
 

KenS

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As for your photo's, you may want to look into Picasa or Photobucket.

Why not just upload the photos here? It's quick and they will be around as long as GJ is maintained. It's both discouraging and a waste of time to see so many broken Photobucket links in these forums. It's just about as bad as when users post craigslist or ebay links that vanish as soon as the item sells-- often in the same day the message is posted.
 

e-tek

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Why not just upload the photos here? It's quick and they will be around as long as GJ is maintained. It's both discouraging and a waste of time to see so many broken Photobucket links in these forums. It's just about as bad as when users post craigslist or ebay links that vanish as soon as the item sells-- often in the same day the message is posted.

It's all about personal preference I guess. My links are never broken and I like it when people post the larger sized pics PB gives. I also don't like having to open the little GJ embedded pics. Finally, even though I haven't removed pics, I still feel better knowing I could. I hear ya on the CG links - I don't even try to open them anymore!
 

MP&C

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i borrowed an old welder, it welded like ****

Please don't be offended, but I thought I'd throw some pointers out here that others may learn from it too......


59restore.png



Looking at the welds the arrow points to, they appear to be just sitting on top of the metal. If you were to grind this flush, you would see the joint between the two pieces of metal again. This is equal to no weld penetration, and to be on the safe side, I would recommend to grind the weld away and reweld. (you can't weld over top of weld that has not penetrated, as you'll still have a mound of weld and no penetration) Some of the splatter issue may be flux core wire, but I think it may also be more related to rusty, dirty metal. You want nice, clean, shiny metal when using your MIG, it is not as forgiving as using stick.

Secondly, the welder is not set hot enough in the picture shown above. If the weld is sitting on top of the parent metal, there is no fusion. Set the welder hotter, and also increase the wire feed speed (especially if it tends to blow holes) until you are getting something that flows together better, similar to this:

Picture171.jpg


........and ideally you would want the weld hot enough and wire feed speed such that your welds would provide a full penetration weld, as seen here (back side of above)

Picture178.jpg



With MIG welding using an inert gas, the argon mix is intended to provide a shielding cloud around the weld to prevent impurities from contaminating the welds. Flux core uses the flux to provide this same feature, similar to stick welding. So you should be able to see from this that trying to weld on anything but clean, shiny metal will introduce impurities in the weld puddle. All that is needed is to sandblast/sand/grind about a 1/4" along the seam til it's shiny. Also, it appears in your pictures you may be welding outside. A little bit of breeze blowing will remove your shielding cloud, whether you are using argon or flux core, so some curtains or temporary "walls" may need to be set up if those weather conditions exist while welding outside.


Lastly, try to get your welder setup dialed in by welding on some scraps (the same thickness as your sheet metal) off the truck.. Once you now have your welder setup satisfactorily, you won't have to worry about damaging your repair panels from the need for rework...
 
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z28snksknr

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I'm using flux core myself on my panels and, while it's tricky and not ideal, my $90, 80A welder is getting the job done. It's not impossible, it just takes practice.
 
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59f100

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long island
i apprecitate the pointers, the weld you pointed to was done with a 25 year old systematic welder i borrowed. it was easer to stick weld than use that welder. i bought a lincon 140, now my welds are much better,alto im burning holes, my temp. is low, i think my wire speed is to slow. i still have a lot to learn about welding.
 
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e-tek

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I'm using flux core myself on my panels and, while it's tricky and not ideal, my $90, 80A welder is getting the job done. It's not impossible, it just takes practice.

I'm with you here. I did the quarter panles on a Challenger with a flux-cored welder and they where fine. Yes there's more splatter, but (like anything), once set up well it works fine.

While I generally agree with MP&C, I have a different take on flux-cored wire welding than this:

Also, it appears in your pictures you may be welding outside. A little bit of breeze blowing will remove your shielding cloud, whether you are using argon or flux core....

The flux in flux-cored actually comes out and surrounds the welding wire AS IT's BURNING. It isn't wafting around the wire as per gas-welding. the flux protects the arc because it's created at the same time. It doesn't "blow away" very easily which is why it's preffered in any feild-type applications. It also tolerates impurties, including rust better, so it's good when you can't get all the rust cleaned from your weld area (like in a pinch weld).

Also, make sure you are "pulling" or dragging the wire when using flux-cored wire. It'll turn out smoother welds. But the spatter is unavoidable - it's moslty the flux that causes it.
 

e-tek

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i apprecitate the pointers, the weld you pointed to was done with a 25 year old systematic welder i borrowed. it was easer to stick weld than use that welder. i bought a lincon 140, now my welds are much better,alto im burning holes, my temp. is low, i think my wire speed is to slow. i still have a lot to learn about welding.

You're right, If you're buring holes turn up the wire speed first.
 

MP&C

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The flux in flux-cored actually comes out and surrounds the welding wire AS IT's BURNING. It isn't wafting around the wire as per gas-welding. the flux protects the arc because it's created at the same time. It doesn't "blow away" very easily which is why it's preffered in any feild-type applications. It also tolerates impurties, including rust better, so it's good when you can't get all the rust cleaned from your weld area (like in a pinch weld).


Thanks for the clarification...Where I haven't used flux core, I have seen the effects of a slight breeze on MIG with shielding gas. The guy welding couldn't figure out what was wrong with his welder setup....Once I stood in the way blocking the breeze, it showed what the problem was :headscrat
 

e-tek

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Thanks for the clarification...Where I haven't used flux core, I have seen the effects of a slight breeze on MIG with shielding gas. The guy welding couldn't figure out what was wrong with his welder setup....Once I stood in the way blocking the breeze, it showed what the problem was :headscrat

Of course as you've shown in so many of your photo's, if the gas stays where it should, one can turn out beautiful welds with gas sheilded MIG!:thumbup:
 
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