My 5x10 trailer

[spooler41]

JUST A WARNING

If you use TREX Decking , do not space your cross-members more than 16" apart. I once
built a 16'x34' deck and the plan called for 24" joist spacing, it didn't work.
The TREX went sway back between the joists in less than a month, you could see every
one of the joists.

........................ Jack

 

[Wanna Ride]

That thing looks awesome. Seems like you used composite for the decking? What are the dimensions?

Did you use Trex on this for the decking by any chance? I have been thinking about doing the same thing and wonder how it would hold up.

Thanks, guys. I really enjoyed building this trailer, back about almost 7 years ago. So I can certainly relate to the op, when he said he enjoyed his build.

Yes, it's composite decking, but I'm not certain of the name brand. I've seen the hollow kind, but this is solid. I caught it on clearance in this color, at Home Depot for about $11 a board. I don't recall the dimensions but I'll post them tomorrow.

As for someone saying they'll sag, mine hasn't yet in almost 7 years. I don't recall the spacing on my stringers. I was determined to build a trailer that was as close to maintenance free as possible. Since this original pic, I've added a spare tire carrier, and stainless pins for the ramps. I think this spring I'm going to build wider ramps from aluminum. It will make unloading the bike a little easier.

Toofart - when you start the build on your bud's trailer, be sure to post all the build pics!

 

[toofart]

The gate works awesome

I cut the wood planks at 45* and counter-sunk the screws. My sled can just drive up no issues.

Not pictured is the 5' x 4' plywood sheet that I can put on the gate for loading/unloading snowmobiles.

I took it for a 30 minute drive with my 400 lb sled on the bumpiest, roughest roads. Pulls like a champ, no issues.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Sweet! Love pics of all things we build, and the ideas integrated into these kinds of projects. I like the tailgate and the chamfer on the decking boards. Really can't wait to see the progress pics of the next trailer you build!

 

[toofart]

Thanks, man. I studied many pics before cutting steel, your trailer, Kirk's pics, Kerry's, and a bunch of others. No need for us to reinvent the wheel

Next one will be my 18' car hauler. I start that one in January, I'll start a thread when the time comes.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Thanks, man. I studied many pics before cutting steel, your trailer, Kirk's pics, Kerry's, and a bunch of others. No need for us to reinvent the wheel

Next one will be my 18' car hauler. I start that one in January, I'll start a thread when the time comes.

You're right, but it sure is nice to learn all the little things that you can incorporate into a build, that make it so much nicer, and better-equipped! When I finally cut the first piece of steel for mine, I had designed, redesigned it and built it, dozens of times in my head.

 

[Wanna Ride]

That thing looks awesome. Seems like you used composite for the decking? What are the dimensions?

The deck is 6'-6" x 10'-6". Someone else had asked about the stringers; they are 24" o.c.

 

[Cobra5150]

.....
For the tailgate I'm planning on a 5' tailgate hinged in the middle, similar to the photo below. I hate those tailgates that extend upwards forever.

I will also use chains or cable so that the tailgate can be flat with the floor, like a pick-up truck tailgage, effectively making the floor almost 13' long.

Great idea! The gate on my 5x14 almost hits the overpasses and I like this idea. Not only the tailgate like chains but the smaller profile as well. If I made the two pieces separable, it would make taking the gate off by myself much easier. Taking it off isn't too hard but aligning the hinge pins while holding a 5x6' gate is tough.

 

[rslaback]

One last suggestion for you:

I like the way you put a 45 on the deck boards. However, when it comes time to replace the deck those screws are going to be impossible to get out because of the water that is going to sit in those holes. At least for that back row I would consider drilling all the way through your rail and then using carriage bolts. When deck replacement time comes you can just cut off the bolts on the bottom side.

 

[toofart]

I thought that but I'm expecting many of these deck screws to.be stubborn when that time comes. I'll keep an eye on them and if they start to rust I'll use bolts as you suggested.

Those screws are not in holes though but slots... If I tilt up the trailer a few degrees when it's.parkes water just flows off.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[toofart]

If I made the two pieces separable, it would make taking the gate off by myself much easier.

Yepper. I welded the hinge pins on the two pieces but I shouldn't have for that reason. Oh well..

 

[kerrynzl]

I thought that but I'm expecting many of these deck screws to.be stubborn when that time comes. I'll keep an eye on them and if they start to rust I'll use bolts as you suggested.

Those screws are not in holes though but slots... If I tilt up the trailer a few degrees when it's.parkes water just flows off.

Thanks for the suggestion!

I wouldn't worry about it mate!

When it comes time to replace the wooden deck, a cheap 1mm cut-off blade in an angle grinder will take care of the screws [approx. $1 in our pacific peso]








The problem with all these great practical and improved ideas is "when do you stop"

Every time you build a trailer, you can see a way to improve it [usually before you've finished it]

I bet this trailer is miles ahead of any store bought trailer [that is why you can sell it easy]

 

[Cobra5150]

Went and checked mine out today. All it would take is 2 5' pieces of 2" stock and hinges and I should be set. Could you get a close up of your hinges for ideas?

 

[toofart]

I bought 5' of 1/2 inch rod and 1/2 inch pipe (sched. 40, .600 inner diameter). Cut rod in 8.25" lengths and pipe.in 2" 4" 2" for the barrel. Industrial hinges for pennies and i still have enough left over for 4 more hinges.

 

[toofart]

Check post #43 you can see the hinge.

 

[Cobra5150]

Check post #43 you can see the hinge.

Thanx. There may be enough in the scrap pile. My gate is 2" angle running lengthwise. When I cut it do you think a flat bar would be strong enough or use angle and notch them to fit?

 

[toofart]

I would use angle if you have some.

 

[ggielen]

Now i want to build a trailer. My 'project list' grows faster on the bottom than i can complete stuff at the top

Nice job OP!

 

[Cobra5150]

I would use angle if you have some.

Don't have any angle, but don't have any bar either so it's off to metal supermarket. I'll pick up some 2" angle

 

[Mr.N]

For the tailgate I'm planning on a 5' tailgate hinged in the middle, similar to the photo below. I hate those tailgates that extend upwards forever.

Is there a way to make a bracket so the lower side would always fold out?
Seems there should be a way, just need it get it kicking out a little.
It would have to have some slop in it for different heights of ground.

 

[toofart]

Don't have any angle, but don't have any bar either so it's off to metal supermarket. I'll pick up some 2" angle

Start a thread when you get to it!!

Is there a way to make a bracket so the lower side would always fold out?
Seems there should be a way, just need it get it kicking out a little.
It would have to have some slop in it for different heights of ground.

Probably, but I don't see the need. If I lower the gate with moderate speed the lower half kinda kicks itself into place.

 

[Mr.N]

Probably, but I don't see the need. If I lower the gate with moderate speed the lower half kinda kicks itself into place.

Figure someone might have done this so I could copy.

 

[toofart]

I just finished building this sucker:

I had some time constraints so I didn't start a new thread. Maybe I could, maybe I could use this thread as my Trailer Journal.

 

[zmotorsports]

I just finished building this sucker:


I had some time constraints so I didn't start a new thread. Maybe I could, maybe I could use this thread as my Trailer Journal.

Nice looking trailer.

Just out of curiosity, what did you do for ramps? How did you attach them for loading/unloading and how did you store them?

Mike.

 

[toofart]

At the rear I cut some 12" holes and used some 2x3 angle. You can also see an 80" wide 1x1x.250 angle iron along the top of the frame which will be used to anchor the ramps:

Closed off with some doors and lynch pins:

Here are the ramps. You can see another 1x1x.250 angle iron that will sit in the matching channel on the trailer

The ramps are very sturdy but also very heavy (61 lbs each). I may make another set of light-weight ramps since these are overkill for most cars.

 

[toofart]

The ramps are likely to rattle, and I hate rattles, but I'll implement something later on to solve that. Didn't have enough time to incorporate that into the build.

I hate things that clank and rattle on trailers.

 

[zmotorsports]

The ramps are likely to rattle, and I hate rattles, but I'll implement something later on to solve that. Didn't have enough time to incorporate that into the build.

I hate things that clank and rattle on trailers.

Thanks. Still working on ramps. Started to weld and trim down some aluminum ramps for the trailer last night when the wife called and informed me her car was acting up. Needless to say, the trailer got stuffed on the back burner.

I think I am going to scrounge up some valve springs and use them to push against with the ramps to preload them and hopefully eliminate any rattles as I too HATE rattles and noisy trailers. I did that on my Big Tex flatbed and it worked well.

Mike.

 

[koditten]

The ramps are likely to rattle, and I hate rattles, but I'll implement something later on to solve that. Didn't have enough time to incorporate that into the build.

I hate things that clank and rattle on trailers.

Me, too. We may be brothers.

Regardless, one, beautiful trailer.

 

[kerrynzl]

The ramps are likely to rattle, and I hate rattles, but I'll implement something later on to solve that. Didn't have enough time to incorporate that into the build.

I hate things that clank and rattle on trailers.

This seems to be a common complaint

Buy a pair of Dzus spring loaded lever latches and rivet them across the rear to preload the ramps to one side.
Here's an example of the type I'm referring to
This is used for anti-rattle on a tilt deck of an empty trailer for a commercial user

Are you going to cap the wooden deck at the join of the dovetail?


Nice trailer mate! I take my hat off to you.

 

[toofart]

The latch and the valve springs are great ideas. Keep 'em coming.

I have a piece of 2" x .125 staring at me for the joint, but I'm not entirely sure how to install it. Since the joint is not flat, fo I knock it down with the belt sander?

Thanks for the kind words. I learned a lot about building trailers from you guys and your threads, so I owe you a beer.

I have a 6x10 to build for a friend, then I'm gonna take a break. This car hauler was a lot of work.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have a 6x10 to build for a friend, then I'm gonna take a break. This car hauler was a lot of work.

Take a lot of pictures and start a thread on it. I would love to watch it being built.

Mike.

 

[kerrynzl]

The latch and the valve springs are great ideas. Keep 'em coming.

I have a piece of 2" x .125 staring at me for the joint, but I'm not entirely sure how to install it. Since the joint is not flat, fo I knock it down with the belt sander?

.

use a piece of 4"x .125 flat and get it kinked in a pressbrake.
Cut some heads off some bolts and weld the shank to the underside.

Drill the wood ,and bolt up with washers underneath.

It will be blind bolted

 

[toofart]

One more Question.. the front D rings sit on the wood deck and don't clank, but the rear ones flop around when the trailer is empty. I don't plan on doing many km with an empty trailer, but do you guys have any ideas for something to keep the rear D rings down?

 

[kerrynzl]

One more Question.. the front D rings sit on the wood deck and don't clank, but the rear ones flop around when the trailer is empty. I don't plan on doing many km with an empty trailer, but do you guys have any ideas for something to keep the rear D rings down?

Try and pump the D ring brackets full of RTV or Urethane while in the correct position .
After it sets , you should be able to "crack it" so it swivels [but it wouldn't matter anyway]

There! the "glue answer" to welding

 

[zmotorsports]

On my 18' Big Tex the "D" rings were 3/4" diameter so I took some 3/4" heater hose, cut a piece for either side just a tad longer than needed, slit the hose slipped one small piece over either side of the mounting part. I then used a zip-tie to keep the piece of heater hose in place. It worked pretty good at keeping the "D" rings from rattling around.

I also do something similar to my clevis pins on my Jeep front and rear bumper. Nothing I hate more than those large D rings on people's bumpers clanging around while bouncing around off-road, or on pavement for that matter. I just cut a thin section of heater hose for either side and then squeeze them in between the clevis on the bolt and bingo, no more rattling "D" rings yet you can still move them around with a little effort if you need to hook a tow strap or winch to it.

Mike.

 

[volleyball]

You can get some rubber chair feet that use screws to hold them on for a couple of bucks. Screw them down where the ring will hit. Now it hits the rubber, quiet and doesn't interfere when you want to use the ring.

 

[toofart]

Heater hose seems like the easiest way. I was thinking of jamming some rubber from an exhaust coupler in there, but the heater hose seems like a good plan. I'll try that.

Thanks guys.

 

[kerrynzl]

You can get some rubber chair feet that use screws to hold them on for a couple of bucks. Screw them down where the ring will hit. Now it hits the rubber, quiet and doesn't interfere when you want to use the ring.

Good Idea! Consider it stolen.

Those little rubber feat under old computer boxes [ with a screw and washer inside ]

 

[RickP]

Heater hose seems like the easiest way. I was thinking of jamming some rubber from an exhaust coupler in there, but the heater hose seems like a good plan. I'll try that.

Thanks guys.

Very nice looking trailer, and the smaller one too. I really like the extra details you added to the rails.

For the d-rings, you could also use a small bungee cord, in addition to the rubber bumpers. I bought an entire bag of them for $1 at Horrible Freight, with a small plastic ball on each one instead of the hooks. If you added a ring or a hole to the side rail at the back of the frame, the bungee cords would keep the d-rings from bouncing at all.

 

[toofart]

Thanks!


Heater hose seems to have done the trick. The D rings don't move unless I move them. Thanks for apl the ideas!