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My 800 ft Epoxy-Coat Project Blog

rklindb

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I have been lurking and learning in the forum for almost 2 years. The time has come, the time is now. This blog will eventually be part of the www.guysthatknow.com website. Some of the writing reflects that as it might be read by some that are even more "newbie" than I.

Virtually all of what will happen in the coming days is a result of research on this site, various manufacturers found here also, and several other forum members PM. Thanks. By Saturday night the verdict will be in as to whether or not I can take all of this information and transform it into finished product. I found your write-ups and opinions extremely valuable. I weighed each one in determining what I would do. Hopefully my write-up can go into the knowledge base as an example of what to do, as opposed to the contrary.

It is worth noting that I am probably a bit OCD about this. I think that many of you are also. But here in the "Garage Journal Forum" in the Flooring thread, that is where that OCD shines and is helpful. If anyone outside this forum was to ask what I did, it would go something like, "I painted my garage floor over the weekend". End of story. For you all, there is a bit more that will happen. Buckle up.

In years past I painted my garage floor after doing an extensive prep and etch. I thought I was doing it correctly, but I wasn't. I've learned. I originally used Behr Garage Floor Epoxy paint. While it sounds like the right stuff, it is far from what it takes to do it correctly. It looked great until I started to walk on it, drive on, and actually use it. Within months, the spots under the tires had peeled. Admittedly it was cheaper, but in the long run it wasn't. The labor I put into it was exactly the same as had I done it correctly. I just can't advise that you do this process with a poor product, it is so much work, and then when it peels - and it will peel - it looks bad.

The right way is more expensive, but it is so much better I've waited almost two years in order to do it correctly, even if it costs more. (Don't worry, all the details are upcoming.)

My garage floor consists of 843 sq. ft of basically sound, very smooth, sealed concrete. There are some big expansion joints, some saw cuts, and some minor cracks. My goal is to fill and patch all of those imperfections, cracks, and joints so that when coated, the floor appears to be a seamless expanse of perfection. The fact that the concrete is very smooth and sealed creates a problem though. The epoxy needs to soak into the concrete (to some extent) just like water so that sealant needs to be removed. Also, the concrete should be the roughness of 100 grit sandpaper for good adhesion. Mine is very smooth, requiring me to "profile" it in order to rough it up and also to remove the sealant.

As I stated, this project has been in the works for many months, so several of the items discussed have a lot of background to them. Scheduling the application day(s) occurred over a month in advance. That amount of lead time is necessary to gather all the necessary supplies, rent equipment if necessary, and convince your neighbors and children to help.
 
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rklindb

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Clean Out Plan

Clean Out

It goes without saying that the garage has to be completely empty in order to begin. This is no small task alone, that is further complicated by the reality that everything in the garage will be not in the garage for a couple of days. Once the garage is physically emptied, the real cleaning begins. Vacuum, sweep or blow all the remaining dirt and debris. Hopefully by now the concrete is completely visible. It wouldn't hurt to blow off the shelves, lights and stairs just so that the big clumps of dog hair, spider webs and dirt don't end up on your floor. That would be sad and bad.

Next, identify any problem areas. Are there grease and oil spots? Assuming there are, these will require special attention to ensure they are cleaned up prior to covering with epoxy. If you don't fully remove the contaminant the epoxy might (and probably will) peel.
 
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rklindb

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The Epoxy

Keep in mind that I bought the epoxy several weeks prior to completing the prep. You really can't do the prep and then buy the epoxy as generally you are having it shipped from a far away land. I've mentioned the Behr product I used. It was really just a paint. A true epoxy requires two parts that then react together to harden. Additionally there are 100% solids and then less than 100% solids epoxies. This simply means that the thickness of the epoxy doesn't lessen as the product dries. A key metric here is "dft" - dry film thickness; basically how thick the final epoxy is when dry. There are also choices in epoxy chemistry (Cycloaliphatic vs. Aliphatic). You can also choose to have a clear coat on top after you add the color chips. The number of options and decisions is mind boggling, and that is before you even choose the color of the epoxy and the color of the color chips. Some of the choices are easy. You need to start with a 100% solids cycloaliphatic epoxy. This is the best and the industry standard. It is also more expensive that the other choices. I want to do that prep work only once, so that is why I went with the best. After lots of research, including talking to many people on The Garage Journal Forums I purchased my epoxy from a Epoxy-Coat. Christine McGuire participates regularly on the forum, stands by their products, and offers free shipping to forum members. Epoxy-Coat offers a premium kit for $495 that includes virtually everything you need including color chips and a top clear coat. It is worth mentioning that the clear coat bumps the price up, but it adds additional thickness and more gloss. Once again, you only do this once. Each kit covers about 500 sq. ft, so a two car garage is covered. My garage requires two kits, and I went with the grey color.
 
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rklindb

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Color Chips

One of the most distinctive parts of an epoxy floor is the color chips that are embedded in the epoxy. These color chips add thickness, traction, and hide imperfections. They can be lightly scattered on the epoxy, or spread so heavily that they almost completely cover the underlying color. The Epoxy-Coat kit includes enough to lightly sprinkle the garage floor, which is probably fine. I like the look of heavy density shown here. I quickly found out that color chips can be expensive, running about $10 per pound. Using the formula on that page, I would need over 20 lbs. of flake to get to heavy density. $200 additional on color chips wasn't going to fly, so I looked around. Ebay had a listing for 25 pounds of left over flakes for $40 including shipping, so that was an easy choice. Those have been sitting in my garage for months awaiting the rest of the items to come together. The chips I found are a commonly used blue mix, which has white, black and blue chips. I have enough to do a heavy distribution over my entire floor, and Christine at Epoxy-Coat (a.k.a. "rugerlady") was kind enough to substitute their UV protective additive to the clear coat in place of their color chips. Nice.
 
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rklindb

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Equipment List & Budget

2 X Epoxy Coat Premium Kit ($495/each) = $990
Spiked Shoes = $13
Legacy Industrial HD-821 Crack Filler - $158 (I bought the 2 gallon size as I had no idea how much I will need, and I am sure every neighbor and family member is going to have me do their garages later so I might as well be ready)
25# of color chips off ebay - $40
18" frame for roller (Home Depot)- $18
2 X 18" roller covers (Home Depot) - $20
6 gallons of muratic acid (Home Depot) - $30 (more on this in a bit)
60 ft. of 5/8" backer rod (Home Depot) - $12
Edco Grinder Rental - 24 hrs. included diamond inserts - $100
Hot dog roller with extra covers - $15
Scrub brush - $10
Drop cloth, extra buckets, measuring cup - $20
High quality, heavy duty floor squeegee (Home Depot) - $25 (not for application, rather for pushing water out during cleaning and then later during use)
2 X 16" squeegees (Lowes) - $10 (not heavy or premium, rather just right so as to not remove epoxy during application)
Already had - shopvac, extension pole, leaf blower, hammer/chisel, sandpaper, willing, awesome 13 yr. old son who is ready to help. (Payment agreed to was that someday when he has a house I'll help him do garage floor)

Total - $1451 ($1.72/sq. ft.)
 
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rklindb

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Grinder Rental - Problem and Solution

As you plan out the project, you will find that you have a couple of items that need to happen in the right sequence or it won't work.

Early on, I decided that I most likely would be grinding the floor. I knew I could etch, I've been there and done that, but my current floor was very smooth (almost shiny smooth) in most areas, but then there is a patched area that needs grinder work.

Right up front there were two issues with the grinder - time and cost. If money were no object, I would simply have the grinder for several days. However, the multipliers got ugly and I determined that in order to make this aspect of the entire project jive with the rest of the budget I would only have the grinder for one day. However, as I am using a crack filler I would need to grind the filled areas after the filler has hardened - about 12 hours later. The best option was to get the grinder over the weekend, so as to grind on Friday night, and then again on Saturday prior to returning.

Diamond Rental (local big chain)- 1 day rental would total about $248 for a single head unitl The timing was bad, would involve picking up late on Friday night, and returning early Saturday afternoon. Original quote (done in March) had increased from $189. Unsure of why it changed, possibly only quoted a 4 hour rental. United Rental tried hard, but never got anywhere. Big Blastec machine, 22 inch swath, weighs 370 lbs. However it ran on 220V. Also, the pricing was moving - anywhere from $86/day for everything, to a similar price plus $10 for "certs" which quickly became $70 for certs when it was discovered the machine took 6. Would require the rental of a $80/generator to supply the 220V. However, even after 5 or so calls from me, I was never able to get a firm price quote or commitment. Every time we were on the phone (same woman every time), I always ended up on hold or having her ask to call me back. Each time she took my name and number. And then never called me back. Finally, after one of those sessions I googled "diamond grinder rental utah", found South Davis Rental, and spoke to Randy. He knew exactly what I wanted, had a brand new Edco machine in stock, recommended the right inserts. $100 for 2 PM Friday to later on Saturday afternoon. "Whatever I need, we can be flexible". Perfect. I love local businesses, and should have thought of them first.
 
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rklindb

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The Garage Layout

My floor was divided by expansion joints into four natural divisions that were roughly the same size. Using Google's SketchUp I laid out the dimensions and determined that the four sections were 192, 197, 217, and 217 sq. ft. Therefore if I divide the kits' total coverage of 1,000 sq. ft by four, it is easy to see that each fourth's 250 sq. ft. coverage will be enough to go over the individual sections. During actual application, the floor will be visualized as 8 sections. These smaller areas will allow for reasonable application times of both epoxy and flake. Therefore I'll be mixing 8 batches, 4 from each of my 2 kits.

Update - the numbers also refer to my expected order of epoxying. I am starting in the back where there is the most stuff (benches, shelves, etc.) so that hopefully I am pro at doing it by the time I get to the areas that everyone will see.
 

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rklindb

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Day 1 - Tuesday

Spent about 2 hours "getting a head start" on the weekend. Because areas 6 and 7 were the least cluttered, we started there. Moved out winter tires, then vacuumed, swept, and blew out the dirt and masses of dog hair. Then used Dawn dishsoap, Simple Green and a stiff brush to scrub all areas. Used the squeegee to move the dirty water off, and to reveal any imperfections in the concrete. My son, chief assistant, used a chisel and hammer to remove the Liquid Nail adhesive remaining from the tire stops. (Note to self, don't do that again). There was also quite a few spots where there was gum or some sticky residue that we removed with the chisel or with 40 grit sandpaper.

Finally, we acid etched the entire area. Although we will be diamond grinding on Friday, I wanted to experiment with the etching to see if we could remove the sealant, rough up the concrete enough, and also to make the grinding easier on Friday. I also already purchased the muratic acid and it is just cool to use. (Something about being nearly blinded by acid, suffocated by fumes, and the yellow smoke). Additionally I wanted to be sure that there were no trouble spots that I needed to focus on. All in all the concrete looks great, it is quite rough though not rough enough. All the stains were gone, and the final finish is about 150 grit sandpaper and has a chalky white finish. This finish will come off on the fingers, though minimally so. The expansion joint cleaned out nicely. The saw cut though was filled with a creamy colored mud that will require additional work tonight. It doesn't seem deep enough or wide enough for a backer rod, but it is deeper than I originally thought. All supplies are in place and ready. I've not used the power washer, several forums commented that the power washer drives moisture deep into the concrete that might take weeks to come out. Not sure if this is true, but don't want/need to risk it. Using just the hose, chemicals, and a scrub brush. Seems to be working.
 

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rklindb

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Clear Coat Decision

The top clear coat is optional, but does provide an additional layer of protection and is recommended when using heavy color chip density. The clear coat can also provide UV protection that reduces the yellowing and fading effect of the sun on the epoxy. The clear locks everything down while adding a deep gloss to the floor. Once applied over the color chips the total thickness is nearing 20 mils - over 10X thicker than the Behr paint previously mentioned. It is worth mentioning that if you aren't concerned about having a heavy distribution of color chips you can skip the clear coat. There is still a high gloss, and the thickness is still about 5X more than the Behr. More importantly the cost drops from $495 per kit to $285 per kit. This does slightly complicate matters as it needs to be applied no later than 18 hours after the first coat. My plan is to begin epoxying at about 6 AM on Saturday, and then doing the clear coat late, really late that night. This leaves Sunday to cure, and then hopefully begin moving back in on Monday, with cars inside that Wednesday.
 
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rklindb

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Pre-Patching the Cracks

This step is optional, but then again the entire process of epoxy-coating the garage floor is optional, so while you are doing it, do it right. Filling the cracks and expansion joints allows you to create a completely smooth, uninterrupted floor. There are several ways to do this, but only one way that is the right way.

The expansion joints are there for a reason. They provide a place for the concrete pads to move and flex (hence their name). This movement doesn't stop simply because you are epoxying the floor. Fill them with the wrong material and the epoxy will just crack. The right crack filler material to use is Legacy Industrial HD-821. This material is hard enough to support the weight you'll put on it, yet flexible enough to not crack or break. It is what has been used by The Home Depot to finish their floors. That is good enough for me.

Before I started filling the expansion joints (see pictures), they first need to be prefilled with backer rod. This is a closed foam tube that you squish down into the cracks and joints. This provides a foundation for the crack filler and also reduces the amount of crack filler needed. Backer rod comes in a variety of thicknesses, and is available in places like Lowes and Home Depot for about $4 per 20 ft. After inserting the backer rod, the crack filler is used.

The saw cuts and shrinkage cracks will be filled by troweling in the HD-821 and smoothing them over.

Like the epoxy that will be ultimately applied, the crack filler is a true epoxy, meaning that you mix a part A with a part B and that mixture chemically reacts and hardens.

After this stuff drys for about 12 hours, I will need to go over the floor one last time with the grinder. This will level off the crack filler and also prepare it up for the best adhesion to the epoxy.
 
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rklindb

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Schedule

Tuesday - headstart on moving/cleaning/etching (couple of hours)

Wednesday - same (couple of hours)

Thursday - by end of day, entire floor to be visible, cleaned, and etched. All problem areas addressed. Floor is ready for grind and crack fill. Last time floor is wet. (couple of hours).

Friday - if by chance anything needs be finished, this will occur in AM. Want to have minimal amount of water involved, hopefully none at all

Friday 3 PM - begin grinding. Assume 200 sq. ft. per hour. Done by 7 PM.

Friday 7 PM - Fill cracks until complete.

Saturday - 7 AM - quick regrind of all crack fill material to ensure level finish.

Saturday - 8 AM - Epoxy Begins

Saturday - Late - Clear Coat
 
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rklindb

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Day 2 - Wednesday

New photos added https://picasaweb.google.com/russ.lindberg/GarageFloorProject

Work, family and other life commitments limited what I could do today. Spent 2 hours further moving stuff out. I is amazing how much **** accumulates in the garage. It isn't like we've been piling stuff up for years either - less than 2 years in this home. The amount of dog hair is mind boggling. Granted I regularly use a leaf blower to "clean" the garage, which basically drives all the dirt and hair into the corners and crevices, but every time I rinse, re-rinse, sweep or blow I find a new hiding place for hair and dirt. It is highly likely that in spite of my best efforts the completed floor will actually be a new hybrid carpet type consisting of an epoxy base with a 2" **** made of black German Shepherd Dog hair. I also spent some time etching a couple of sections. Section 5 which is below the stairs I etched and scrubbed and then re-etched as that will be untouched by the grinder. More than 30 mins was spent getting the crud out from under the boiler (for heated driveway). Getting concerned about timetable. Have spent 4.5 hours thus far, only 50% done with the basic cleanup prior to grinding. Fans in place to assist with drying, though temp is 40's tonight, not helping. New
 
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rklindb

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Day 3 - Thursday

Spent 1 hour this morning, as tonight is gone do to all sorts of other commitments. Total time spent thus far is 5.5 hours. I now have completed basic cleanup (prior to grinding) of 75% of the floor. Only Sections 1 and 2 remain.

Continued removing stuff from garage, completely emptying Sections 3 and 4 and working on 1 & 2. Vacuumed, blew, swept and hosed out Sections 3 and 4. Section 8 wasn't etched as well as I would have liked - still visible sections where sealer was present, not as rough. Etched Sections 3 and 4 and then completed 8. Have now used 5 gallons of muratic acid, 1 gallon remains, will buy more today. Still haven't used any of the powdered acid mix included with kits. May use that as a final touch up.

The saw joints concern me. They are narrow, (1/4") but they are deep (several inches). Whereas I originally was going to just trowel in the HD-821, I will most likely supplement that with some backer rod. It may mean using scissors to cut some of the 3/8" stuff in half, as it won't fit full thickness. This process will had some time, so I have recruited help for tomorrow.

Remaining tasks prior to grind (Friday AM) - empty Sections 1 and 2, followed by cleaning and etching them. Careful inspection of all areas to identify sections requiring grinding work (places where LiquidNails remains, a couple of places where concrete imperfections exist). I am concerned about grinding process as it is a complete unknown. Hopefully the prep to this point will make that go easier and also provide for some margin of error.

Grinding Plan - Pick up grinder, start grinding. Assistant(s) follow behind and begin crack filling with backer rod and HD-821. This process has to be complete by EOD Friday. Big day tomorrow (taking day off)
 
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rklindb

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Spatulas/Scrapers

Picked up some cheap kitchen spatulas. Spent $3 for 3 big and 3 small spatulas at Family Dollar. My wife frowned at the idea of me using her Le Creuset spatulas.

They will be used during the mixing process. I have Part A cup (32oz) and an identical Part B cup (32 oz.). The spatulas will be used to scrape out these cups into the mixing bucket so they are clean for the next batch.

They will NOT be used to scrape the finished, mixed product onto the floor. That process would most likely transfer the unmixed product on the sides and bottom of the mixing bucket onto the floor. Unmixed product doesn't harden and leads to tears of sadness. Instead, a spatula will be used to scrape that useless product into the garbage so that it doesn't contaminate the next batch.
 
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rklindb

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Day 4 - Friday (Grinding)

Picked up grinder at 2 PM (South Davis Rental, new product, knowledgeable support, new inserts; 24 hrs for $100).

Began grinding at 2:30 PM - was much easier than I had anticipated. Rate of grind was about 200 sq. ft. per hour. Used Ridgid shop vac to attach to the 2" vac connection. This drastically reduced (practically eliminated airborne dust). There was dust on the floor. Machine was very useful in removing the stains and contaminants that the cleaning and acid hadn't touched.

Son, daughter and neighbor alternated using the grinder with me while the others masked the entire border of the garage.

After about 2 hours, Sections 1, 2, 3, 4 were complete. It became obvious however that the grinding was actually reducing the roughness of the concrete. It seemed to be polishing it. Note that I was using the recommended Dyma-Serts. The finished areas were still rough and clean, but just not as rough as the acid etched only parts.

For remaining sections I made an executive decision to grind only the problem areas - the glue residue, overspray etc. After it was complete, the entire floor was clean, rough, and ready to go. If I ever did this again, knowing what I know now, I would hesitate to grind. This isn't due to the cost or to the hassle. Rather it is because that it seems that at least in my singular experience, acid etch is acceptable for roughness. (Feel free to chime in here with comments)

As always, photos, HERE.
 
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rklindb

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Day 4 - Friday (Crack Filling)

Following the grinding, we did another extensive clean up. Swept, vacuumed, and then used the leaf blower. No more white dust, floor is spotless, and pristine.

Now to the Legacy Industrial HD-821. This stuff is cool. I have the 2 gallon set ($158 including shipping)

I used a scrap piece of plywood, a 6" plastic trowel, and a 2" steel trowel. You simply thoroughly mix equal blobs of both parts and then trowel it in.

The mixed consistency is roughly "honey-like". It is very easy to maneuver and work with. It sticks to the concrete and simple troweling allows you to level it off. Used globs about the size of oranges and was able to use the entire batch before it became to hard to work with. In some places (deep saw cuts) we had pushed the backer rod too deep which allowed the filler to sink below the level of the concrete. (Our fault). I was surprised to see that the bigger expansion joints had a concave look too them after about an hour. Probably due to shrinkage, but maybe due to something I did. This was easily remedied with a second coat run down the length of the joint.

Spent roughly 3 hours filling the cracks (kids laid the backer rod). Now several hours later the filler has the firmness and stickiness of a rubber ball. There are a couple of areas with a slight concavity, but nothing serious. I will expect that some of the bigger expansion joints will be barely visible. I do really like this stuff. I should have budgeted more time, wherein I would do another coat to ensure level. I am curious how it will grind in the morning, it seems like it might just gum up the grinder. We'll see. I does seem perfect for its purpose - hard, yet flexible. Good product.
 
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rklindb

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Day 4 - Friday (Wrap up)

Tomorrow is the big day. Epoxy goes down starting at 7 AM. Prior to that I'll do a touch up grind and then a quick clean (blower).

Total time thru Thursday was 7.5 hours. (I finished etching and cleaning of Sections 1 and 2.)

Today I worked from 2:30 PM till about 8 PM, with adult help for 2 more hours bringing total time to 15 hours. So 15 hours to clean, etch, grind, fill all cracks, holes, etc in 843 sq. ft. Floor is pristine in surface condition, near perfect in crack fills, ready to epoxy. I am not sure how I could reduce this time. In spite of having questions about what the grinder was accomplishing, I still needed it for certain areas and will need it to level the crack filler.

Muratic acid isn't that big a deal. I wore eye protection, but was in shorts and Crocs the rest of the time. No gloves, etc. Granted I was very careful, and had two hoses available at all times. It seemed to be very effective and inexpensive. It didn't touch certain things - Liquid Nails and paint. Those required the grinder.
 
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rklindb

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Must have tool for garage prep - Tool of the Year

Without a doubt the most useful tool thus far has been a heavy duty floor squeegee from Home Depot.

This was invaluable in moving water out, while at the same time making imperfections and problems visible. Also, after the acid stopped fizzing, this was used to push the acid out prior to rinse. Couldn't have done it without it.

Furthermore, this will be used ongoing to move water out of the garage (from snow on cars, etc.) as epoxy coated concrete is no longer porous, meaning that the floor stays wet unless you push the water out.
 
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rklindb

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Grinding the Crack Filler

6 AM - crack filler was hard, looked great. Used the grinder to level it all off. Very easy process using the EDCO grinder. One small regret - I wish I'd budgeted enough time to do another coat, as there were a couple of areas where the crack filler sank below the level of the concrete. Ironically, this wasn't on the big wide expansion joints, rather it was on the saw cuts. Probably because they were much deeper than they were wide and we pushed the backer rod too deep. This doesn't matter now, we start epoxying at 7 AM. Used a paint scraper and sandpaper in the few parts I couldn't reach with grinder.

Complete sweeping and then 3X times through with leaf blower to get rid of all the concrete dust and filler residue.

Floor looks good, ready to go.
 
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rklindb

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Laying Epoxy

16 hours of prep time done. Now it is game time.

Two helpers arrive at 7 AM. We walk through the sequence of events. One of them will be in charge of mixing, the other will doing the cut in and the edges.

Temp is in low 50's. Overcast. Rain in forecast. Humidity low.

First batch goes fine considering it was first. Initial concern on coverage, but then realized that we were thinking that we would have to do two sections with it, not just one. Squeegee was a bit too good, had to use very shallow angle to avoid removing all the epoxy. You can't move product with the roller, you have to spread it mostly with the squeegee and then roll it out with roller. The 18" roller set was priceless, and saved lots of time.

Unbelievably I kept finding small threaded nuts on the floor covered with epoxy. Soon realized that the spiked shoes were dropping nuts. Relative to that, the spiked shoes I bought from Amazon had about 2" spikes, whereas the kit's included spikes were 1". The longer ones were hard to walk on, had a tendency to bend, and were not necessary. Walking in the shorter spikes was much easier.

The second and third batches went smoother. More than enough product (though that is not surprising as we were covering 200 sq. ft. with 250 sq. ft. of product.

No bubbles or fisheyes. Second backrolling (after 10 minutes) was uneventful.

Applying flake was tricky, especially with about 10 people providing helpful pointers. Started with 25 lbs, divided it into 8 equal bags (by weight). Some guesswork as to how dense to go, ended up with a couple of really heavy areas.

Applying heavy flakes is an easy way to cover alot of problems. The bare epoxy has great gloss and is perfectly smooth, and also shows every single slight imperfection in the concrete. I thought my concrete was "pristine", but in reality it had countless small scratches, divots, edges, etc. Once the flake was applied, virtually all of those imperfections were invisible. Even with 25 lbs for 843 sq. ft. I would have liked perhaps 10 more pounds.

The first 4 sections were of the concrete that was heavily grinded (ground?). It was somewhat smoother than the concrete in the last 4 sections. Surprisingly though, the next sections had an entirely different feel. Granted, we were working from the second kit, but the epoxy seemed so much "better". It covered better, and we had seemingly way more to work with. I say surprisingly, because the sections were almost identical in size and the second group of sections was rougher. This reinforced my idea that grinding might not be the best. I would still need to have the grinder for problem areas and crack filler leveling, but as for going over the entire floor I am skeptical.

The spiked shoes are a must have. You simply can't or shouldn't try to do the floor without them.

No real issues, finished epoxying and flaking whole floor in right at 3 hours.

Cleanup everything, shut the doors, and did a few neighborhood tours. 6 hours later the surface isn't tacky, but it is still soft. Plan on doing clear in about 6 more hours.

Floor looks beautiful.

Application photos add to HERE
 
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rklindb

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Clear Coat

Did double batches of clear, partially because I am tired and partially because I assumed it would be easier. Total of 4 batches. Most difficult part is knowing how the coverage is, as it is clear and therefore virtually invisible. Crucial to have several spotters able to move around and catch the light right in order to see the reflection and glare. I didn't cut in or edge - not sure you can even tell.
Glad to be done, looks great. Some completed pictures posted, but I'll wait till tomorrow and good light to shoot some final ones before we reload the garage.

Pictures HERE.
 

E_braker

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Outstanding post!! Thank you for the detail, it is making my 1200 sq ft project better to plan.
 
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rklindb

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Jul 7, 2010
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37
Location
UT
Shark-Grip

During the application of the clear coat I applied a 1 lb jar of Shark Grip. Following the initial application of clear, before the second back roll, I sprinkled Shark Grip over the high foot traffic areas. I am not sure how this stuff works, it is like a fine powder, reminds of resin that is used in baseball. It made the surface change from crystal clear to more of a milky color.

Now that it is dry, I am not sure what to think. The surface isn't necessarily slick, but it is hard to tell where the Shark Grip is vs. where it is not. It certainly isn't visible, so there is no downside. Time will tell if it helps.
 
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rklindb

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Jul 7, 2010
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37
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Final Photos

End result - the floor vastly exceeds how I thought it would look and feel. The gloss is amazing, the clear coat really enhances the depth and gloss. The color is great, the flakes hid the flaws, it doesn't seem slick (though we haven't tried wet yet). The photos don't capture how great it looks, I'll work on getting better light, but it really looks good walking around on it. It is almost too nice for a garage floor. One downside to this is that it actually looks better than some of the tile inside the home, and you know that means.

Photos HERE
 
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rklindb

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Jul 7, 2010
Messages
37
Location
UT
Products Review

1. Epoxy Coat - great product, great customer service. Kit is very complete. Product seems to be top quality. Coverage was as as expected (I used 1000 sq. ft to cover 843 sq. ft. and had plenty. Could have done more, but was happy to have it thicker.

2. Legacy Industrial HD-821 - great product, great customer service. This seems to be a perfect solution to filling cracks. Hard, yet flexible. Easy to work with, easy to apply (though can be messy if you don't pay attention). Only wish it didn't shrink or that I planned for that shrinkage into schedule.

3. Grinder - skeptical about whether this is a must do. I found that etching gave me a rougher surface. However, if there is anything not reactive to acids, like glue, paint, etc. the grinder was necessary. Also, the grinder is a must have tool for finishing the cracks (grinding down the HD - 821). I originally dreaded the idea of the grinder, but it turned out to be a non-issue. Easy to use, not very messy (if used with a good vacuum), and very effective when used in situations described above. Time will tell if it is a must have, as I have a side by side comparo of acid etch vs. grinder.

4. Muratic Acid - very effective at cleaning and etching (unless there was glue or paint and some oily contaminants. Be careful and use lots of water and a big squeegee and this seems to be a very effective way to clean and etch. Also, there are some areas that the grinder can't reach, but the acid can.

5. Flakes - go heavy coverage. I used 25# on 843 sq. ft. and would like to have more. They cover imperfections (and you have them whether you think so or not.). Shop around, look on eBay, try to round up some leftovers. Be careful though, we were a bit short and ran to Lowes to get a small amount for filling in some bare areas - the color difference and flake size difference was very obvious.

6. 18" roller - this is a must have addition for a big project. I was wishing for 24" or bigger by the end. To use the 9" included roller (normal size) would have been like digging a hole with a teaspoon.

7. 16" squeegee - this was an upgrade from the very small included squeegee. I spent $10 on two 16" squeegees and it was money well spent. I'll use the other ones for window cleaning.

8. Shark Grip - TBD here. No downside I can see, but can't tell yet if the grip is actually increased.

9. Extension pole for roller. Must have. I have 8' of pole, which made the roll stokes able to be longer than a section. Critical for minimizing roller marks.

10. Spiked shoes - the Epoxy Coat included spikes were perfect. Use them. Absent them, buy the $13 pair from Amazon, though be careful of the height and tighten the spikes. I have no idea how you would do this project without having spiked shoes.
 
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rklindb

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37
Location
UT
What Not To Do (Things I'd do differently)

Plan time better - all said and done I spent about 30 man hours. Once the first epoxy is down you are on a tight schedule if you plan on a second coat (i.e. clear). I wish I had an extra day to do some final crack filling.

Realize that there is more to the budget than buying epoxy. I spent roughly 50% more on the other things needed.

Use Gorilla tape on the border with the driveway. The masking tape leaked, so the border is jagged (1st world problem), but it would have been an easy fix.
 
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rklindb

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37
Location
UT
Need for Extra Help

It is possible to do the vast majority of the work solo. All of the cleaning, etching, and grinding can be done alone. However, as for the actual epoxying, it is almost essential to have 3 total people - one to squeegee and roll, one to mix, and one to cut in and assist. We never had too many people. We actually had 2 others (kids) doing all manner of errands, picking up, finding tools, etc. I would highly recommend that the "mixer" stay consistent, and be detail oriented. Nothing would be worse than having a bad mix cause the whole project go south due to the epoxy not hardening.
 

bRIZZAd

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
69
Re: Need for Extra Help

Applying flake was tricky, especially with about 10 people providing helpful pointers.

Without a doubt. Even doing 'heavy' coverage as you did, there is still opportunities to throw TOO much flake. It is an art & I certainly underestimated how much 'throwing' was involved... I did 11lbs for my 440sqft garage. After doing 440sqft of epoxy @ once with three people... and then doing a heavy broadcast of flake... it turned out to be an hour of exercise.

Unbelievably I kept finding small threaded nuts on the floor covered with epoxy. Soon realized that the spiked shoes were dropping nuts.

When I did this last summer, we found the same thing. My father in law is much bigger than I am - and the nuts on his spiked shoes came lose more so than mine. A couple on mine did come off as well. Recommendation to all before starting this would be to tighten those up with a ratchet set, and maybe even put some locktite on them to ensure they WON'T come off into your fresh epoxy.

Great write-up. You've collected a lot of knowledge from various threads here. I hope your floor holds up well as it looks tremendous.

:beer:
 

Tims94

Member
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Apr 18, 2012
Messages
14
Thank you for taking so much of your time and documenting your experience. It has put some comfort into all the planning that I am doing. I'm sure there are more than myself in testament boat. Great job to you sir.
 

ben.keefer

Member
Joined
May 25, 2012
Messages
8
Great detail in your write up. A question sourced by inexperience however, would it have been possible to use the grinder in areas where it was needed and THEN go through with the acid? I'm thinking that might have revealed a more uniform surface, however I don't know what the acid would have done to your crack filler. Just an idea...
 
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