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My Air Compressor Enough to Drive Impact

cptzippy

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I know it's a stretch but I thought I'd ask. I have a Porter Cable 6 gallon air compressor (rated at about 2.5 at 90PSI). Would it be enough to drive an impact wrench solely enough to undo the lug nuts on four tires on a car?
 
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cptzippy

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Thanks for the reply rlitman.

Reason I ask is that I eventually want to get a big nice air compressor but not in the budget or limited space I have right now. Also don't want to get a battery operated one and deal with batteries if I'm going to get a compressor later anyway.
 

BillK

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zip,
The CFM isnt all that important on an impact gun because you are only using short bursts. But the pressure is very important. I would want no less than 120psi. Also, dont cheap out on the impact gun either. The more you pay, the more torque you get in the same size gun. I have a 3/8" drive Snap On that will out do most of the cheap 1/2" drive guns.

That being said, I simply hate using an impact on lug nuts. Unless all you are going to do is break them loose. You cant "feel" if there is any dirt or corrosion witht eh impact and you can end up messing threads up.

Instead, just get a "good" four way lug wrench and use it. The one I have is probably 30" across and there is not much that it wont loosen up pretty easily and you can spin the nuts off with it in a couple of seconds and not worry about messing threads up.

Just my opinion,
 
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cptzippy

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My compressor is 150psi. I've been using a break-over bar and my thinking on going ahead and getting the air impact was to help me do more with my health issues lately. Wouldn't ever use it to put one back on but I hadn't ever heard that about the grit in the thread getting it off. Good to know, thanks.
 

Dustball

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If you want to use your impact for longer bursts- plumb in a portable secondary tank. It'll take longer for the pressure to build back up but you'll be able to run the impact for more than a few seconds at a time.
 

rlitman

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That being said, I simply hate using an impact on lug nuts. Unless all you are going to do is break them loose. You cant "feel" if there is any dirt or corrosion witht eh impact and you can end up messing

I wouldn't consider taking my lug nuts off with anything but an impact. If there is any issue with the thread, I can certainly feel it running slower, and it's safer to just zip them off after the car is up, than to loosen them all before lifting the car.

That being said, they always go back on by hand.

As has been said above and before, whatever better hoses, fittings and tools will get more power, from less air. Longer/thinner hoses and restrictive fittings starve the tool of air (the pressure delivered to the tool ends up much less than what's leaving the tank). So don't go using a 50' 1/4" coil hose, and you'll be ok.

Oh, and I've got an 8 gallon Chinese compressor (basically this: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-8-gallon-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-67501.html ). When I bought a wooden swingset on craigslist last summer, I brought that along with my impact gun. I can't tell you how many dozens of bolts I zipped out (it felt like hundreds, and filled a canvas bag with bolts and tee nuts), but it really saved the day.

That same compressor may only run a die grinder for 15 seconds before it peters out, but you can use it to get some good work done with an impact gun.
 

wait4me

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Assuming you have this compressor
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

it does just fine. I have this unit and one of the older HF Earthquake impacts and can take off 5 lugs before the compressor kicks in to recharge. Pull a wheel and it recharges while I'm shuffling it around the truck. Works great for me.

I've abused this little pancake. Even used it to paint the bottom of a 33 foot sailboat with a wagner HVLP conversion gun.
 
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cptzippy

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Assuming you have this compressor
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

it does just fine. I have this unit and one of the older HF Earthquake impacts and can take off 5 lugs before the compressor kicks in to recharge. Pull a wheel and it recharges while I'm shuffling it around the truck. Works great for me.

I've abused this little pancake. Even used it to paint the bottom of a 33 foot sailboat with a wagner HVLP conversion gun.

That's the one. :thumb up:

What impact would y'all recommend?
 

RECox286

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I would be lost without air. It's not just for wrenching ! Do yourself a

big favor and get the biggest, baddest, slowest running SOB of an air

compressor you can. You will love yourself for doiing so. Believe it.

30 some years ago, when I had the house built, the first thing I got was

an old walk in freezer box compressor that was older than I was, and

cobbled together a system that I still use. The main seal leaks a bit,

but if it didn't, I'd know it was empty. The system resides under the

cellar steps, neatly out of the way.

Uncle Bob
 

GSteg

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That's the one. :thumb up:

What impact would y'all recommend?



Depends on your budget..

Will the gun be just for lug nuts? How tight are they torqued to? You may be able to get away with a 3/8" impact rather than a 1/2" gun. That should reduce the amount of air need to zip off those lug nuts.
 
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cptzippy

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Depends on your budget..

Will the gun be just for lug nuts? How tight are they torqued to? You may be able to get away with a 3/8" impact rather than a 1/2" gun. That should reduce the amount of air need to zip off those lug nuts.

Mostly lug nuts for now but who knows in the future. Budget is to be determined but I prefer american (or maybe european) COO and to buy a tool once that will last. IIRC both cars lugs are in the 80 to 90 range torque wise.
 

GSteg

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I can't think of many 1/2" impact guns that are made/assembled in the US. Ingersoll Rand 2135, Snap On MG725, some of Aircat impact guns.. and that's all I can remember.
 
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cptzippy

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I can't think of many 1/2" impact guns that are made/assembled in the US. Ingersoll Rand 2135, Snap On MG725, some of Aircat impact guns.. and that's all I can remember.

Not a make or break requirement but a preference. Definitely want something that will last when I buy it. Also wiling to come Pawn Shops etc for one.
 

Russian

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I can't think of many 1/2" impact guns that are made/assembled in the US. Ingersoll Rand 2135, Snap On MG725, some of Aircat impact guns.. and that's all I can remember.

IR composites are in my opinion one of the best deals on the market.
 

HaroRider

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zip,
The CFM isnt all that important on an impact gun because you are only using short bursts. But the pressure is very important. I would want no less than 120psi. Also, dont cheap out on the impact gun either. The more you pay, the more torque you get in the same size gun. I have a 3/8" drive Snap On that will out do most of the cheap 1/2" drive guns.

That being said, I simply hate using an impact on lug nuts. Unless all you are going to do is break them loose. You cant "feel" if there is any dirt or corrosion witht eh impact and you can end up messing threads up.

Instead, just get a "good" four way lug wrench and use it. The one I have is probably 30" across and there is not much that it wont loosen up pretty easily and you can spin the nuts off with it in a couple of seconds and not worry about messing threads up.

Just my opinion,

I know the OP mentioned he was on a budget, but just for my own knowledge:

More important the the actual CFM (assuming you dont run a spray gun or something similar) Isnt tank size the most important thing?

Most compressors are able to exceed the minimum 90psi pressure needed for air tools arent they? And even small compressors like the one mentioned reach at least 100psi.

Just wondering about this stuff as I read through this thread. Not trying to jijack. :dunno:
 

Sureshot

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CFM is more important IMHO.

I run an Campbell Hausfield PL2502 gun and it sees pretty heavy use. It is about ten yrs old and going strong. I also have several of the supercheap guns we used to use most of the time in the shop. They are the $10 HF style and do ok. I only bring out the good one for loosening lugnuts and other tight stuff otherwise the cheap ones work fine. I also don't run a regulator.

The "stronger" imacts are double hammer or double cylinder or whatever people choose to call them. The weak ones are single. That is why two 1/2" drive impacts can be such different torque ratings among other reasons.
 
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theoldwizard1

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zip,
The CFM isnt all that important on an impact gun because you are only using short bursts. But the pressure is very important.
True, ONLY IF you only use it for short burst ! With only a 6 gallon tank and 2.5 CFM, you probably do not have enough air to take off 5 lug nuts.

Also, dont cheap out on the impact gun either.
Cheap impacts use more air and have less torque. A bad combination when you have a small compressor.

If you can find a used 20 or 30 gallon tank (like from a busted compressor), it will make you little compressor a lot more useable.
 

JamesBill

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Impacts are not constant use in most cases so you don't need much of a compressor. It isn't anything close to a paint gun, DA sander, grinder, blast cab etc.
 

pipsters

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CFM is more important IMHO.

I run an Campbell Hausfield PL2502 gun and it sees pretty heavy use. It is about ten yrs old and going strong. I also have several of the supercheap guns we used to use most of the time in the shop. They are the $10 HF style and do ok. I only bring out the good one for loosening lugnuts and other tight stuff otherwise the cheap ones work fine. I also don't run a regulator.

The "stronger" imacts are double hammer or double cylinder or whatever people choose to call them. The weak ones are single. That is why two 1/2" drive impacts can be such different torque ratings among other reasons.

In a 110v compressor CFM means nothing. Every air tool out there know to man will use more CFM than a 110v compressor can put out. What matters is stored air.
 

wait4me

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True, ONLY IF you only use it for short burst ! With only a 6 gallon tank and 2.5 CFM, you probably do not have enough air to take off 5 lug nuts.

Hmm? I already said I do it just fine. Lets eliminate the speculation.


Doesn't even kick on to charge while removing 5.
 

jvitez

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Unless you're removing semi-trailer lug nuts, most passenger vehicles are only torqued to 75-100 ft lbs, so really, the cheapest impact gun you can find will work for this. I was using a $20 Canuck Harbour Freight equivalent one for a few years, but it wasn't powerful enough for suspension work, so I found a sale on a Porter Cable branded impact gun that has a 400 ft lb rating. Awesome!

But if it's only for lug nuts for the time being, buy something really cheap and see how it does. If you start to get more ambitious, you'll need a bigger compressor and a better impact, but for now, run what cha brung.
 

mdbeck1

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I see posts both ways on this but I've got two compressors. The older of the two is a HF 2 gallon special (Oiled). I bought it to run my new air nail gun and it does that fairly well. It also will run the 1/2" Sioux impact gun (it's probably older than me and given to me by my father) for a few lug nuts.

I agree that you will want to increase the tank size. That can be done by purchasing a METAL air tank from WalMart and connecting it into the system. You could also use an old air compresor tank (I had a 60 gallon one for a while until it rusted out) and it will help.

What really killed the deal on the little one was wanting to use a die grinder with it. It would cut like an inch and then I had to wait for it to catch up.


The new 80 gallon one from Lowes (rebadged Campbell-Housefield) works like a charm but is not portable. When I go off-site I still take the little one with me and it still works. I just have to wait and that's not my strong suit.
 

wait4me

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What really killed the deal on the little one was wanting to use a die grinder with it. It would cut like an inch and then I had to wait for it to catch up.

Yeah, I tried to run an air cutoff tool once with my pancake. That was a miserable failure. I think it spun for 8, maybe 10 seconds before running out of air.
 

dandan111

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I have a older style Porter cable model but it seems to be great quality. It pumps up to 120psi and shuts off real fast. I keep it at 90psi most of the time. I don't think you can sand blast a bridge with it but it would run a little impact fine. Just buy a good quality one.
 

rodm1

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Old post but adding a surge tank and using a IR 3/8 gun probable would be the best set up.
 

y20dth

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lugnuts might not be a problem, but any other rusted bolt might be.
After I failed to loosen some rusted bolts, I went out an bought the biggest (greatest inner diameter) hose I was able to find that would still fit on the standard connection of my tiny compressor.
Haven't met a rusted bolt I cannot get undone now.

Theory behind this is, that the second you switch on your tool (the airtool, remember)
the pressure at your tool drops.
This pressure drop depends on inner hose diameter and hose length.

Your air tools need pressure AND volume.

When the pressure drops, your volume also drops, making for a poor performing tool.

So, minimize pressure drop by enlarging inner diameter, and shortening length.

Other ways to minimize losses are:
- reduce the amount of couplings or connectors
- use barb fittings instead of quick connectors
- use a barb fitting to connect your hose directly to the tank, instead of going thru the pressure regulator.
(moisture separators, oilers, regulators induce losses as well)
 
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mdbeck1

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lugnuts might not be a problem, but any other rusted bolt might be.
After I failed to loosen some rusted bolts, I went out an bought the biggest (greatest inner diameter) hose I was able to find that would still fit on the standard connection of my tiny compressor.
Haven't met a rusted bolt I cannot get undone now.

Theory behind this is, that the second you switch on your tool (the airtool, remember)
the pressure at your tool drops.
This pressure drop depends on inner hose diameter and hose length.

Your air tools need pressure AND volume.

When the pressure drops, your volume also drops, making for a poor performing tool.

So, minimize pressure drop by enlarging inner diameter, and shortening length.

Other ways to minimize losses are:
- reduce the amount of couplings or connectors
- use barb fittings instead of quick connectors
- use a barb fitting to connect your hose directly to the tank, instead of going thru the pressure regulator.
(moisture separators, oilers, regulators induce losses as well)

I agree with some of what you say but you most of the air tools I own run are rated at 90 PSI. The compressor runs from 120-155 psi so I drop it back with the regulator. ...and since I do get some water in the lines I run a moisture separator. I oil the tools individually. That way if I want to run a sandblaster or paint something I don't have to have separate hoses.
 

rlitman

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I agree with some of what you say but you most of the air tools I own run are rated at 90 PSI. The compressor runs from 120-155 psi so I drop it back with the regulator. ...and since I do get some water in the lines I run a moisture separator. I oil the tools individually. That way if I want to run a sandblaster or paint something I don't have to have separate hoses.

Yes, but the 90 PSI rating is for the pressure to the tool when it is operating.
The static pressure in the line will be more than that, to reach the full 90 running pressure.
Honestly, I set my regulator at my compressor at 90 too, but you need to figure you're only getting 80 when the tool is running, IF you have a decent size hose, or maybe as little as 60 if you're on a coil hose and using a tool that needs a lot of air. The ONE time this wasn't enough for me (I had a lugnut which jumped a thread and got stuck), I turned it up to 120, and all was well.
 
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