To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

My anode has been eaten!

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
On my 50gal water heater that runs my floor heat. I checked it a couple years ago and it was fine. no changes have been made other than clearing a cloged line at the manifold a year or two ago. Why would it be eaten up now? Is this a common?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Paul Bee

Active member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
42
Location
Near Portland, Oregon
It is called a sacrificial anode. Would you rather have a hole in your tank? The dissimilar metals in a plumbing system (brass, steel, copper,) cause electrolysis (the same electro-chemical process that makes your car battery work) Instead of eating a hole in your tank it eats up the anode. They use anodes on Navy Ships. So to answer your Question YES IT IS NORMAL. I was an Appliance Repairman for 27 years.
 

jchetty

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2005
Messages
431
Location
Central New Jersey
It is common. Depending on how much it has eaten, replace it to prolong the life of your tank. Usually when you get the extended warranty, you have to upgrade the anode.
 

Jrican

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
141
Location
Lincoln, Nebraska
It is called a sacrificial anode. Would you rather have a hole in your tank? The dissimilar metals in a plumbing system (brass, steel, copper,) cause electrolysis (the same electro-chemical process that makes your car battery work) Instead of eating a hole in your tank it eats up the anode. They use anodes on Navy Ships. So to answer your Question YES IT IS NORMAL. I was an Appliance Repairman for 27 years.

What Paul Bee said. With one small edit/addition, almost all boats have an anode, not just Navy ships.
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
I wonder why the first eight years the anode was not eaten away at all, but the last two years it has been eat away almost completely?
 

walrus

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
I wonder why the first eight years the anode was not eaten away at all, but the last two years it has been eat away almost completely?

Water chemistry? Is it a closed system? Maybe PH has changed. Any Chemicals in it?
 

Cowboy69

Active member
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Messages
35
Location
ontario canada
I was told to take the one out of my water tank as they installed a water softener system in my house. The salt gave off a real bad oder with it in there. And I flush my tank once a year. I was told this by the water experts, but that dosen`t always mean it is right.
 

Jrican

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
141
Location
Lincoln, Nebraska
How was the clogged line cleaned? Did you use chemicals? perhaps an electrolyte was introduced to the system when the manifold was cleaned.
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
How was the clogged line cleaned? Did you use chemicals? perhaps an electrolyte was introduced to the system when the manifold was cleaned.

No chemicals. I just broke it up with a screwdriver and flushed with water. It has a ethaline glycol antifreeze/ water mix at -10F
 

Steevo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
OMG!

This means . . . .


Your water heater is infested with . . .



The dreaded . . . . .


i-7MXsHrp.jpg



RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!!!


:lol_hitti
 

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
A water softener hastens the erosion of the anode. I replaced my anode this year in my home's water heater. It was less than 2 years old and nearly gone. It's something I will do at least every 2 years now....never did this before but it's a very good thing to do/check regularly.

Tom
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
come to think of it the **** I flushed out looked like the stuff the anode was made from. It may be just time for a new anode and clean the strainer.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Go Skins

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Illinois
@Paul Bee and others: do dielectric connections at the WH make any difference? I have to think there is something to the grounding issue stated by marklandon

I personally hate dielectric unions. Almost every water heater iv'e replace the dielectric unions are almost completely plugged off. Even systems with a softner. We quit using the unions on heaters and went with a regular female adapter right onto the dielectric ******.
 

CARS

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
535
Location
New Ulm, MN
I was told to take the one out of my water tank as they installed a water softener system in my house. The salt gave off a real bad oder with it in there. And I flush my tank once a year. I was told this by the water experts, but that dosen`t always mean it is right.

Now that I am in my shop only a few days a week my hot water STINKS!

Local plumber said to remove the rod and the smell will go away. OK, that makes sense but is my tank going to rust away if I do so??? :dunno:

It's suspended... right above my tool box :scared:
 

pdham

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2010
Messages
23
Location
Harrisonburg Va.
You are likely experiencing problems due to the ethylene glycol breaking down. Over time it breaks down to glycolic acid and lowers the pH. I highly recommend that when you refill the system use dowtherm sr1 if you are looking for EG and dowfrost HD if you are considering PG. These are designed for heating and cooling loops. The corrosion inhibitor package in them is far superior to automotive antifreeze. Dow will test the antifreeze for free, they determine the freeze point as well as whats called the reserve alkalinity. This is the buffer present to help combat the glycolic acid formation. The pH in the system should be between 9 and 10.5. I work in the industrial water treatment industry and install 10,000's of gallons a year, and regularly see this type of decomposition. The deposits you found were likely zinc carbonate, the result of the zinc anode ionizing and combining with the free alkalinity in the water, thus lowering the reserve alkalinity. Another thing to consider is only lower the freeze point to what is necessary for your area as the addition of glycol significantly reduces the heating or cooling capacity. A 30% mix brings the freeze point to about 0f. It also reduces the efficiency by 30%. The heat transfer ability is reduced and pumping flow is lost due to the higher specific gravity. You may also want to install a cartridge filter in your piping to help remove the suspended solids from the system, usually a 5 micron filter is used for this. Make sure the housing and filters are rated for the temperature of the water. I hope this is helpful.
 

kmkalf

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
388
Location
Buffalo, NY
we have a rod as well in our travel trailer that is in a seasonal campground- we replace our once every 2 years
 

CARS

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
535
Location
New Ulm, MN
Hey Cars, the normal anode rod is magnesium, if you change it to aluminum it should solve the problem.

Thanks for the idea. I will run it by my plumber friend and report back on what he says about that. Doesn't mean I wont do it..... he's old school and has lead me down the wrong path before.
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
Thanks guys! I have a few more questions. I'm going to replace the anode and flush the system because the darn thing is plugging up. The system has lots of sludge in it like I've seen in car cooling systems that have not had the antifreeze changed. After I drain it, how would youflush it? Would you use a cooling system flush? Muratic acid solution? Just flush with water? Next, being that antifreeze runs about twelve bucks a gal would you run just distilled water or just a weak antifreeze mix. The water heater is 50gal.
 

walrus

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
Thanks guys! I have a few more questions. I'm going to replace the anode and flush the system because the darn thing is plugging up. The system has lots of sludge in it like I've seen in car cooling systems that have not had the antifreeze changed. After I drain it, how would youflush it? Would you use a cooling system flush? Muratic acid solution? Just flush with water? Next, being that antifreeze runs about twelve bucks a gal would you run just distilled water or just a weak antifreeze mix. The water heater is 50gal.

Is there some reason you are worrying about it freezing? I'd flush with water and then use product similar to No-Burst and fill it accordingly if you are worrying about freezing. Its what I have in my floor and solar collector
 

cyamaha2007

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
2,001
Location
St.Charles MO
Our shop at work had infloor heat that gummed up. We flushed with a garden hose for hours then we blew the system out with a rat plug and compressed air. The plug was just a soft rubber plug with a sting tied to it. The plug was pushed through the system by compressed air. That pushed alot of nasty gunk out of system. Then we installed a semi truck coolant filter housing with spin on filter. Then we refiled with glycol. Its been good for 3 years now we change the fliter every year. The filter and housing was 60 bucks at napa. Hope it helps Chuck
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
Is there some reason you are worrying about it freezing? I'd flush with water and then use product similar to No-Burst and fill it accordingly if you are worrying about freezing. Its what I have in my floor and solar collector

Yes I worry about freezing because it can get down to 0F hear for several days at a time. If something goes wrong I would hate for something to freeze and break.
 

JakeKohl

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
1,365
Location
Greenville, SC
Our shop at work had infloor heat that gummed up. We flushed with a garden hose for hours then we blew the system out with a rat plug and compressed air. The plug was just a soft rubber plug with a sting tied to it. The plug was pushed through the system by compressed air. That pushed alot of nasty gunk out of system. Then we installed a semi truck coolant filter housing with spin on filter. Then we refiled with glycol. Its been good for 3 years now we change the fliter every year. The filter and housing was 60 bucks at napa. Hope it helps Chuck

^ THIS ^ ... doesn't get much better.
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
Ok, I've drained the tank and flushed the tank with water and got a bunch of scale out of it. What can I use to break up and flush the rest of the scale out of the tank? Can I add a gal of muratic acid to the 50 gal tank filled with water. Or is there any thing that would work better?
 
OP
G

gayler

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
3,272
Location
Lakin Kansas
get some CLR. It will work wonders on the tank.

How much should I use? This is a 50gal tank. Also can I flush the lines in the floor too? At present I have all zone valse closed and am flowing just from the tank to the manifolds and back to the tank. Thanks!
 

cyamaha2007

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Messages
2,001
Location
St.Charles MO
Im not sure on the pex in floor that seems risky. The clr comes in a half gallon and that should be enough. Just flush it very good mixing anything with glycol is no good. If i were you id install a spin on filter after the hot water heater. If your lines plug up its a huge bill. We were quoted 4 grand to flush the system at work. My method above got us running for 150 or so.
 

HoosierBuddy

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
2,925
Location
Southern Indiana
To the guys that are pondering taking the anode out of their water tank for whatever reason: If you do this, you will significantly reduce the life of your tank.

What I see in water heaters is the normal failure mode is eventually the tank gets a hole in it. In every case, the anode is either gone (as in used up) or has become disconnected from the tank. That means the tank is not protected from rust at any defects in the coating. That means it gets a hole in it and it must be replaced.

Galvanic corrosion doesn't even require dissimilar metals to occur. A steel tank will set up an internal corrosion cell, given the chance, between one section of steel and an adjacent section of steel. It isn't as fast as copper/steel...but it will eat up the tank eventually, unless there is a sacrificial anode installed.

Phil
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom