My Barn...please comment

[LuckyRugger]

I'm getting ready to get some bids on my pole barn, but I want to make sure what I'm planning on is really what I want/need, so please comment on my barn specs.

Envelop
32'X48'X16' (Township limited my sqft, so I'm stuck at 32x48)
2' O.C. Trusses 4/12 Common front 32' and 4/2/12 Scissor rear 16'
12" Overhang all the way around
1/2" OSB Roof Deck
Dimensional aphalt shingles
1-18'x14' Overhead Door (Gable), Foamed in-place and steel inner skin
1-8'x7' Overhead Door (Eave) vertical lift, Foamed in-place and steel inner skin
1-3' Service Door
29ga Steel Siding

Floor
6 Mil Vapor Barrier
2" T&G Foam
1/2" Pex Tubing (12" Spacing and not exceeding 300' per zone)
Rebar
5" Concrete

Interior
Rear 16' will be 2 Stories, First floor ceiling height of just over 9' and second floor about 8.5' in the center and 6' at the eaves. First floor will be a work-out and rec room, second floor will be storage and maybe a craft room.

I do plan on running water, natural gas, electric, phone, cable and cat5 to the barn. I have intention to construct a 3/4 bathroom in the building as well, but plan to keep my plumbing above my concrete floor.

I'm looking to get some comments from others, like should I go with thicker steel siding, car hoist planning, shingles, etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[s_ontario]

29ga Steel Siding is very light price out the 26gauge

hate OSB for roofing but i can live with it if you can

 

[wbrian63]

If you intend to put a car lift in, be sure to allow for this in the slab (I'm not sure if 5" is thick enough), and be sure to know exactly where the tubing is in the floor.

If possible, figure out where the lift would be installed now, even spec the lift to be installed in advance. Make sure to allow space in the tubing plan to allow for plenty of wiggle room to drill for the attachment bolts.

Of course, if you plan to have a 4 post lift, attaching it to the floor is optional...

 

[WNYflyer]

Looks like it is going to be a nice building. I am assuming the building columns will be buried in the ground. Also always best to give folks on here a relative idea of where you are in the world for better recommendations and comments.

A few things to think about. Many of these are done by good contractors but the quality of contractors can vary greatly.


- elevation of finished floor relative to existing grade and the final grading when building is complete.

- stripping of any topsoil,trees, fill material, etc who is doing it, and what is done with it. Make the contractors see the location prior to bidding.

- Once topsoil is stripped, checking the ground/subgrade for soft spots and if any are found then what about digging those out and putting compacted stone back in place. This is hard though for a contractor to cost out and quantify since it is an unknown.

- How much compacted stone subbase under the slab ? State DOT approved subbase material ?

- Do you need drainage around the perimeter base of your slab. Important in low lying, wet and frost areas.

- Look at some lift websites and see what they say about the slab thickness required. Also does the slab concrete need to be air-entrained in your area to help resist frost, de-icing chemicals (road salt) and the damage they can cause.

- Location of slab contraction joints relative to where you may want to put a future lift. Keep the joints away if you can.

- type of concrete floor finish.

- Trusses at the front 32' designed for possible storage ?

- Gutters and downspouts.

 

[larry_g]

When you talk of a pole building I'm assuming that your refering to something similar to what is in the attached picture. This building has 6x6 poles that are 12' apart for a 36x48' building. I'm not understanding where you are putting the Scissor trusses? With poles on a 12' pitch then this is what you get. Are you having poles on an 8' pitch? If your trusses are on a 2' center then where are you going to land them? In this style of building the trusses land on the poles.

I'm not saying your wrong but this is how we build them in this country, your area may be different.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[wormwood]

I didn't see the specs/cost analysis for the beer fridge.

 

[LuckyRugger]

I'm in Mid-Michigan

6x6 post buried 4' deep sitting on 12" disks that are 6" thick, spaced 8' O.C.

Scissor trusses will increase my headroom in the rear 16' of the barn, if I went with a common it would be 6' all the way across, by going to scissor it will increase it to just over 8' in the middle of the room.

Beer fridges is for rookies, I have a kegerator that I picked up at an auction last fall.

I'm pretty sure 12' spacing wouldn't fly in my area of the country with the amount of snow load, without expensive engineered trusses. Also, will be insulating the roof to atleast the minimum residential code of R49.

29ga is the standard, but I was thinking I wanted something thicker.

I'm also considering changing to a 18x12 door instead of a 18x14, because it's almost 1/2 the cost. 18x14 is 3K and 18x12 is $1800.

Haven't really thought about the finish of the floor, will use a power trowel for a smooth finish.

 

[trbomax]

I like a 24" oh. Keeps water off the walls,doors and windows,the snow doesnt pile up against the side walls either.It looks less like an ag building too.

 

[larry_g]

I'm in Mid-Michigan

6x6 post buried 4' deep sitting on 12" disks that are 6" thick, spaced 8' O.C.

Scissor trusses will increase my headroom in the rear 16' of the barn, if I went with a common it would be 6' all the way across, by going to scissor it will increase it to just over 8' in the middle of the room.



I'm pretty sure 12' spacing wouldn't fly in my area of the country with the amount of snow load, without expensive engineered trusses. Also, will be insulating the roof to atleast the minimum residential code of R49.

.

So if I understand correctly you run a beam on the sidewall post line between the posts to sit the trusses on? If you look at the picture in my previous post you can see how there are no trusses on the right side of the building but two extra posts. This allows a full height upper room on the rightmost bay. I only have doors on the left most two bays.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rodnok1]

Why 24" o/c trusess, mine are 4' with steel roofing. Is it a snow load requirement? Damn that's a big door for the gable end, planning on bringing in some combines? I would also plan on putting rough plumbing in now or at least chase areas in concrete.

 

[LuckyRugger]

Larry - Interesting construction, never seen a pole barn built like that before, looks like a labor intensive framing style. I would be concerned how true your 2x4 girt's are after they've been installed, seems like they might start to twist. My home was built with premium lumber in the late 60's and you can tell my roof was constructed with rafters.

 

[larry_g]

Larry - Interesting construction, never seen a pole barn built like that before, looks like a labor intensive framing style. I would be concerned how true your 2x4 girt's are after they've been installed, seems like they might start to twist. My home was built with premium lumber in the late 60's and you can tell my roof was constructed with rafters.

All the girts are 2x6. This is the second building that I have built like this. The first was in 1992 and it is still going strong. It is the common way to erect pole buildings here. I find it interesting the different ways they are built around the country. I will look forward to seeing how yours is done. Are you permitting your build? One thing on the loft here is that you can have no ceiling lower than I think 6 1/2'. Something to check in your area so that you don't have to build walls to prevent head knocks near the eaves.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[trailwart]

on my barn(that we didnt build) and on barns we have built here in MI we use 2x12 along the top-both sides of the poles(inside and outside) that the trusses rest and get nailed to. for steel roofing we have use 48"oc and for shingle roofs we use 24"oc. as there is a huge weight difference between roofing materials.

 

[94legaleagle]

you have figured the smaller garage door at 7 feet high - mistake in my opinion - go w/ an 8 foot HIGH door at least - my house and lake garage both are 7 feet high, and I'm going to replace BOTH of them - years ago, 7 feet might have been standard and ok, but these days I think a 7 foot high door should be outlawed

 

[LuckyRugger]

It was a bit hard to judge the size, 2x6 is much better for girts.

My 8x7 door is not for vehicles, for small stuff and to open when working in the garage when it's nice out. I decided to go with 7' tall because I'm doing a vertical lift, so it will be opening up my side wall instead of inside my building. 8' tall would require almost 18' side walls.

Thanks again for all the input, it's keeping my wheels turning on this project.

 

[ebstein]

the only reason I see for the 24"oc is for the decking if you are going to have shingles....or you could go with 48"oc or 96" and perlines for metal roofing...