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My Bed Skirt Project

aka Larry

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Eastern, NC
Bed Frame Project

My wife recently bought a new adjustable bed, so sans it's support legs, it's totally open underneath, which doesn't look good, and is wasted space. The wife wanted a skirt to hide the underside so I was tasked with building a frame with two sides taking up the extra space between the bed frame and the floor, and the footboard end which will have two drawers.

As always, I started with a drawing:


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After acquiring all the materials I got started by cutting the members to size. The two sides (seen here), and end panels are a face frame design using 1x2 rails and 1x3 stiles. All pieces are joined using pocket hole screws and wood glue:


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To add some depth, I used a roman ogee bit in the router to form this detail. I was smart this time and moved the project OUTSIDE before firing up the router!

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Next, I ripped the 1/4" plywood for the bottom of the drawers and proceeded to assemble the drawer boxes. Here's most of the pile of stuff at this point:


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I bought a set of brackets designed for bed frames and fitted those to the front and side pieces. One side has a pair of pins and the other a pair of slots as seen here:


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OP
A

aka Larry

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Now it was time for some color. First I placed all the Wainscot panels together and sprayed them with my new Critter spray gun. It's not as fast as the HLVP gun (Critter doesn't have a "fan" spray pattern) but it has the advantage of spraying think latex paint without thinning. I was able to get a nice even coat though:


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Next I used Kilz to prime the other face frame pieces. Latex Kilz is thicker than glue, so I have to thin it a little for the Critter to be able to spray it:


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After two coats of primer and two coats of paint, I was ready to attach the Wainscot panels on the back of the frame yesterday. Since I had to glue the panels on the drawer fronts, I couldn't finish the drawers just yet.

Here is one of the side panels after I attached the Wainscot sections:


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I brought one side in the house to temporarily put it in place so the boss could see how it was going to look:

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Since I had to glue the panels on the drawer fronts, I couldn't finish the drawers just yet. The frame will be done tomorrow, but the wife wants a headboard now, so I guess that's up next.
 

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OP
A

aka Larry

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Looks good. I see you have a centipede work table, how do you like it?


Thanks!

The centipede is kind of a pain to fold up/down. I've only used it a handful of times for that reason, but since I don't have a room for a permanent table, it works well for a temporary project surface.
 
OP
A

aka Larry

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Great job!

Nice "engineered plans" that way there are no questions later :cool:

Thanks Matt. I'm always amazed at those who can build something in their head. I have to start all of my projects with a dimensioned drawing.


She has to love it.

Yes she does, but obviously she's not too hard to please, otherwise she wouldn't have married me! :lol_hitti
 
OP
A

aka Larry

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Finally finished this up on Saturday.

I swear installing drawer slides is like installing a seat in a race car. Seems simple enough, but in the end there always seems to be a problem, and this was no different. This time I built the drawers FIRST, and then made the frame opening the appropriate size, which is drawer width + 1 inch. When I'm fitting the slides, I notice the drawer seems really tight. I check the measurement and both the drawer and opening are DEAD NUTS on the money. I finally decided it has to fit, so I force it in there, and luckily the slides still worked OK.

While I'm cleaning up, I notice the big red print on the slide instructions that say "Must allow 0.53 for each slide". Since all the slides I used in the past were 1/2", I didn't even consider these might different, thus I made the opening 1/16" too small. :roll: Next time I'll probably get different sliders that use the standard 1/2" allowance.

I got everything in place and the boss is happy, which is all that really matters right? Here are the final pics:


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OP
A

aka Larry

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After the bed frame was complete, my wife wanted a headboard to match. The bed frame I built was quite pricey for what it was because I used furniture grade dimensional lumber throughout, mainly due to ease of construction. Now that I have a table saw, I can use furniture grade plywood instead.

The center section as seen on the drawing will be built to match the bed frame using 1x3 rails and stiles to form a face frame backed with the Wainscot panels. The plywood rails are added to beef up the design with a section of decorative molding between the two. The ends will be a C-shaped section that will house pair of LED sconces, and a small shelf. The whole thing will be topped off with a shelf with decorative molding underneath. Since we don't have an actual frame to attach it to, this will hang on the wall, which isn't all that uncommon.

As always, I started with a drawing:


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OP
A

aka Larry

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I've been working on this about an hour day on and off all last week. I decided to take Friday afternoon off and get more done since the weather was nice.

I'm using a combination of furniture-grade stock and maple (I think) plywood. Working with 4'x8' sheet goods is a mother, but the cost savings is significant, so I started by using my circular saw to rip the plywood down to a manageable size in the table saw.

At this point most of the pieces have been cut, and some assembly has been done. Of course the drawback to using plywood (aside from all the splintering) is the edges look like ****, but edge banding takes care of that right? I used this stuff before, and it didn't turn out that great so I was apprehensive at best. I watched a bunch of videos and decided to have at it again. To my surprise, it worked out PERFECT! It was easy to apply and just a few passes with a sanding block made for a perfect edge.

Here is a pic of one of the end panels with the edges banded:


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Moving on, I attached the end panels to the center frame with pocket screws as seen here:



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I'm using a french cleat system to hang this on the wall behind the bed. You see the end of the cleat here:


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With the main carcass assembled, I attached the top shelf and then moved onto the decorative molding. The first end was a little tedious, but I got it done before calling it a day on Saturday:



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Sometime around 6:00am Sunday morning I woke up thinking about the molding. I *think* I forgot to miter the end that I didn't work on before gluing the long piece in place. Well sh*t! Now I'm awake thinking of solutions that don't involve ripping it off, and starting over. Suddenly this came to me:



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I nailed a few scraps together and cut it at 45 degrees to make a temporary fence for my oscillating tool. I'll have to say it worked pretty darn well, and saved me from a bunch of re-work.


With all the molding complete, I sat the sconces in place, just for another test fit to be sure the spacing was correct before proceeding with paint.



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Now I have to wait until the end of the week for the temps to warm up enough before moving on to paint.

Stay tuned...
 

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csp

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I deliberated a long time on the track saw. In the end I ended up with one of the cheaper options and I'm thrilled with it. I bought the Wen, which is one label of many found on the same saw, along with an upgraded blade. I also bought the ShopFox 55" guide rail as the Wen comes with two 28" tracks and Wen's longer track was more expensive than the compatible Shop Fox. Shop Fox and Grizzly sell the same saw as the Wen I have for $50-100 more.

My only complaint is the dust collection, but when I look at a perfect edge with zero tearout I don't mind breaking out the broom and dustpan. There are ways to improve dust collection and they make a big difference. It's certainly not Festool but at <$250 for a cut that rivals a table saw that I've put a lot of money into upgrades, I'll take it.

I see that their current offering has 1 amp more power and is priced lower than what I bought via Amazon. It appears to be variable speed now, but is missing the riving knife.
 
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OP
A

aka Larry

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I deliberated a long time on the track saw. In the end I ended up with one of the cheaper options and I'm thrilled with it. I bought the Wen, which is one label of many found on the same saw, along with an upgraded blade. I also bought the ShopFox 55" guide rail as the Wen comes with two 28" tracks and Wen's longer track was more expensive than the compatible Shop Fox. Shop Fox and Grizzly sell the same saw as the Wen I have for $50-100 more.

My only complaint is the dust collection, but when I look at a perfect edge with zero tearout I don't mind breaking out the broom and dustpan. There are ways to improve dust collection and they make a big difference. It's certainly not Festool but at <$250 for a cut that rivals a table saw that I've put a lot of money into upgrades, I'll take it.

I see that their current offering has 1 amp more power and is priced lower than what I bought via Amazon. It appears to be variable speed now, but is missing the riving knife.


I saw a YT review on the Wen, but haven't heard much real work experience. I don't do a ton of wood work (though it seems I'm doing more and more), but I didn't want to invest in a future paper weight. I'd appreciate this input, and more if you have it, on the Wen and the necessary accessories.

I also looked into the Truetrac system, which looked like a quality, affordable option, but I steered away after finding out getting their shoe setup on the base of the saw was quite finicky. My existing 7-1/4" Skil-brand saw is OK, but the shoe is the worst part, even brand new, so I figured adding onto it wasn't going to end with an accurate cut. I'm current use a DIY wooden fence, but the shoe on my saw gives less than stellar results.
 

csp

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Any track saw is going to give a better cut than a circular saw following a straight edge. It's the prevention of tear out that makes it so much better. And you can't steer any direction but straight.

I don't do a ton either, which is why I deliberated as long as I did. After the first cut I was kicking myself for waiting so long. I know that a Festool, or Dewalt or Makita would be better, but not the increment of better that you get just getting away from a circular saw to even an inexpensive track saw.

The model I have is 36055 which appears to no longer be made. The Shop Fox W1835 and Grizzly T10687 equivalents are though. I chose the Oshlun 48 tooth blade to replace the one the saw came with.
 
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aka Larry

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Any track saw is going to give a better cut than a circular saw following a straight edge. It's the prevention of tear out that makes it so much better. And you can't steer any direction but straight.

I don't do a ton either, which is why I deliberated as long as I did. After the first cut I was kicking myself for waiting so long. I know that a Festool, or Dewalt or Makita would be better, but not the increment of better that you get just getting away from a circular saw to even an inexpensive track saw.

The model I have is 36055 which appears to no longer be made. The Shop Fox W1835 and Grizzly T10687 equivalents are though.

I take it (correct me if I'm wrong) you are advocating for just the Wen saw and using other guide rails vs, this Wen + Powertec kit?
 
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csp

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That's the route I took because the Wen at that time was identical to the shop fox and the grizzly. The Wen in your link is not the same as the other two. It has more amperage, but no riving knife and the price is about $35 less than the Wen I bought. I suspect they may have cut some corners and the quality is lower, but that's just a hunch.

Regarding rails my Wen came with two 27" rails and I wanted a longer one, and the other brand just happened to be identical but cost less at that time. That's the only reason for the non-Wen longer rail. Product vs price vs timing differences don't make my situation vs what's available now an apples vs apples comparison.
 
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aka Larry

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That's the route I took because the Wen at that time was identical to the shop fox and the grizzly. The Wen in your link is not the same as the other two. It has more amperage, but no riving knife and the price is about $35 less than the Wen I bought. I suspect they may have cut some corners and the quality is lower, but that's just a hunch.

Looks like this ShopFox is about $100 over the Wen. Not saying that it wouldn't help, but I've used a circular saw many, many times w/o a riving knife, so I'm not sure that would be the biggest selling point IMO.
 

csp

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Just pointing out an obvious difference, outside of the housing shape. Hell, it may be a better saw. I'd look for video reviews on that model and see if they do any comparison to the previous one or to the other two brands. I found lots of reviews when I was looking.

Just realized I didn't ever give a link to what I bought. You can see how it's the same as the Shop Fox and Grizzly that are still offered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FH6ZG9/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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aka Larry

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For anyone still following along, I finally got this project completed this weekend. The whole thing took a lot longer than I thought, but in the end I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out and my wife loved it too.

Here are the finished pics:



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Monza Harry

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Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words.

BTW, you are spot on. As soon as this one was done, she informed me of my next project she has in store for me.
Larry that turned out well! As for her next project you, now have leverage to parlay that into a new toy you "just have to have" for her next project! I'm thinking CNC table for a router or plasma, a "Kick @$$" tubing bender, an addition to the shop, Dream BIG! She now knows it's an investment in your combined happiness! Harry
 
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aka Larry

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That is very nicely done.


Thank you!


Larry that turned out well! As for her next project you, now have leverage to parlay that into a new toy you "just have to have" for her next project! I'm thinking CNC table for a router or plasma, a "Kick @$$" tubing bender, an addition to the shop, Dream BIG! She now knows it's an investment in your combined happiness! Harry


Thanks, and yes, I've already got my eye on a few new tools. :D
 
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aka Larry

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I just wanted to reply back to this thread regarding CSP's recommendation on the Wen track saw and Powertec guide rail setup.

I haven't needed one until now, but my next upcoming project will benefit from a track saw so I went ahead and bought the above referenced Wen/Powertec setup.

First off, I will say the Powertec rail setup was very well packaged and helped it survived the delivery by the infamous UPS Basketball Team. Second, the setup directions for the Wen saw were a tad difficult to follow, but I figured it out.

After the initial setup of the track, I positioned it to make my first cut. The Wen saw's safety trigger makes it really deliberate to engage the motor and allow the blade to plunge. No way you can accidentally power it up, which is a good thing I guess. Once I got cutting, it was great. Nice, straight, perfectly even cut.

I'm looking forward to using it on my upcoming project.
 
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