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My (cheaper) alternative to Wiremold

jetranger

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Jul 18, 2014
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129
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USA
I am trying to think of different ways to get numerous outlets around my garage. I love Wiremold, but the price is around $1100 for my 600 sq ft garage.

I do want a two tone wall, with light gray on the bottom, and white on top. I also want a black trim piece that separates the two around the beltline of the garage.

I am not an experience electrician (110 anyway, plenty of 12v). I am thinking if I carefully cut the drywall away where I want the trim piece, I will easily be able to get a hole saw 'in' the wall and drill through each stud around the perimeter of the garage. I can run whatever lines I want through the holes, and then secure the trim piece in. I am thinking about running air lines in them as well (Rapidair). Here are a few pictures of my possibly crazy idea:

(sorry, I **** at Sketchup!)

wall1.jpg


wall2.jpg


wall3.jpg


If I had to one day, I could always take the trim piece out and replace the drywall. As far as outlet placement, I could either make them part of the trim piece, or mount them just above or just below the trim.

Please give me your input. I figure if I'm doing a trim piece anyway, I might as well make it functional. I would probably use 1" prime trim, then it would extend out from the wall about 1/4" or 1/8".

Thanks!
 
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The Cobbler

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your idea makse sense, but rather than trying to cut perfect slots in the drywall, I would cut the drywall smaller than your cover trim, and lay your trim pc over the drywall rather than between the drywall.
code will determine how far back from the edge of the studs you have to drill too.
 
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jetranger

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USA
your idea makse sense, but rather than trying to cut perfect slots in the drywall, I would cut the drywall smaller than your cover trim, and lay your trim pc over the drywall rather than between the drywall.
code will determine how far back from the edge of the studs you have to drill too.

Ahhh I didn't even think of that, but it's an excellent idea! I figure half way back it what I'd shoot for. I think 5" or 6"' trim would look nice with the size of the garage.

Thanks!
 

Rock knocker

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Aug 14, 2014
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704
If you use nail plates you won't have to worry about the depth of your hole. You will also have to use NM ("romex") or MC, whereas wire mold is built for individual THHN or the like. The last point is minor.
 

srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
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SW ohio
If you use nail plates you won't have to worry about the depth of your hole. You will also have to use NM ("romex") or MC, whereas wire mold is built for individual THHN or the like. The last point is minor.

Yeah but if uses nail plates he wont be able to nail the trim on either.

Sounds like a great idea honestly. I like my garage outlets higher than 48". I would make a T shape out of the trim and have it over hang the drywall as well. Attach it with screws and you can pull it of easily in the future.

You wont fit an airline and romex through the same stud hole.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
You could always do the same thing but with diamond plate or stainless strips

I would make the strip about 6" wide so you have plenty of room for screws that will miss the holes for the wire

Bob
Great idea, I encourage you do do that
 

Wood'nMetal

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Jul 7, 2013
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PNW Oregon
Instead of trying to recess the utility in the walls, why not surface mount it in a channel. I once built a large mobile service trailer. We lined the inside with a metal box channel that had removable lids. All the wiring and air went through that box and it was so nice when you wanted to drop an outlet or air drop!

Something similar could be done inexpensively with some type of c-channel and a wood face.
 

shooting4life

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Nov 19, 2012
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I would skip the drywall and use a piece of hardwood instead, either painted or stained to taste.
 

Vegaman_Dan

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Pacific, WA
For the trim piece or cover, something you can paint or even use metal sheet for the task. I would make it removable in either 4' or 6' sections screwed in place so you can remove only what you need for maintenance or modifications without having to take out the entire long section.

This might be an opportunity if you make that panel about 8-10" tall to make flush mounts for any other outlets to poke through, air line connections, etc.
 
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michaelrc51

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Jul 4, 2014
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93
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NJ
Is the ceiling already finished? I'd just drill the top plate and run the wire down the wall using old work boxes.


I am with this guy.

Cut your holes where you want your outlets then just drill a 1" hole through the top plate and snake the wire down.
 

volleyball

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Aug 29, 2011
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NY, not NYC
Maybe the thing to do is cut 16" band around the perimeter. Drill holes for power, low voltage, air, gas or whatever spaced apart. I'd also run some conduit with large boxes every 4'. This will be for future additions. The 16" path will allow spacing for all lines and allow 3 pieces per sheet of drywall. Since you are going to paint anyways, it won't be much extra work. You may be able to cut the existing stuff and reuse some or all of it.
 

Modern Jess

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(Sorry, late to this thread, been mostly offline for a few weeks.)

I think it's a really neat idea. I was having some back-and-forth with jetranger about electrical channel (which I have used extensively in my workshop build) but I'll concede that it's a bit on the pricey side. This is a great alternative.

I'll also echo an earlier comment about overlapping the cover on top of the drywall, rather than trying to fit it perfectly between the pieces. Finishing a drywall edge like that is kind of a pain in the ***. And yeah, I would use aluminum plate or something like that for the covers.

The one potential gotcha: I'm not sure it would pass code in some areas (which may or may not be a concern). I seem to recall some bit of code requirement that if drywall is up, it has to be completely taped and bedded. Which is weird, since bare studs are okay, but that's my recollection. YMMV.
 

adpprop

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Nov 6, 2012
Messages
36
Really like your idea!
Tack up the boards you are going to use as the filler, and then tack a top and bottom strip against it and then remove the filler strip. Take a router with a flush cut or drywall router and follow the 2 temporary strips and the one you will use as the permanent one will fit right back into the piece you have removed.
I would use a right angle drill and put it through the slot you have cut out for the filler strip and tip it as high as I could for electrical and then aim a lower hole for air near to the middle of the slot as the lines will be easier to get at and pull and the wire which will be higher up than the area you will need to be putting screws to hold the filler in place. If the air line is in the middle of the strip you should not hit it with the screws holding in the filler as long as you put the new screws closer to the edges.
If you put the new drywall screws in at the bottom of the upper portion of the drywall before you drill the holes you will not risk hitting the wire afterwards.
This is a great idea you have and is why I like this site.
Woulda' never thunk o' this on my own.
 

9GUY9

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Oct 12, 2009
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248
Location
Mankato, MN
My last house had a finished garage when I moved in and only had 1 outlet. I routered a 1/4" deep 3/4" wide slot down the center of some 1x6's then ran romex in the slot and used remodel outlet box's every 10' or so. Painted the 1x6 and mounted them about 4' off the floor all along the garage. It looked like a nice trim with outlets in it. I obviously had to remember not to run a nail or screw into the trim. When I moved I pulled all the outlets out, and put blank cover plates on the box's. I left the wire in place, if the next owner wanted to hook it back up thats on them.

 
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